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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone!

So i'm getting closer to watercooling my sig rig. I now need, tubing, radiators and fittings. I'm having trouble picking what size I will need and look good in my rig, I don't want something too thick or too thin.

In my loop I have a Supremacy Evo, Mosfet Block, RAM block, 2x GPU blocks, EK XE240 x2, and a DDC 3.2 PWM pump w/ 140mm res. Everything will be pretty straight shot, no real tight bends.

I want to use soft tubing at the time as this is my first W/C loop that isn't an AIO unit. I will switch to hard tubing in the future as I see fit
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I see a lot of people using 10/16 and 12/16, is there much of a difference between these? What do you personally run? What about the cooling difference, if there is one? Will my pump be an issue with a more restrictive tubing setup (if thats a thing still)? Any tips, tricks or help provided will be much appreciated!!

Thanks,
Pat!
 

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There is very little difference as far as performance goes, it's really an aesthetic choice. The flow rate effect of tubing over 10mm is very minor which provides an even lower, likely immeasurable temp difference. I find 10/16 to be the best balance of size optically and has the widest availability of fittings.
 

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It really does not matter unless you go with something silly low sie like 3mm or 5 mm ID.

Popular sizes are 8/10mm 10/13 mm and 10/16 mm. The larger you go the more expensive are the fittings and tubing ofc. Performance wise you will not see any difference between these tubing sizes. So as noted the main difference is looks. And turning radius.

Do note that some blocks are inlet and outlet so close togehter that it is not possible to use 10/16 with compression fittings on these.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

I know you said no real tight bends but 10/16 will be less chance of kinking if you do get into a tight bend situation. Also if you use clear tubing with colored coolant the thicker wall gives a bit of a translucent effect between the OD and ID.
Well if you go with soft tubing then ofc there will be kink problem. The only way to entirely counter this is to use 90/45/etc degree fittings. The size don't really solve kink problem imo. After all, it depends on which looks better.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by minh2134 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

I know you said no real tight bends but 10/16 will be less chance of kinking if you do get into a tight bend situation. Also if you use clear tubing with colored coolant the thicker wall gives a bit of a translucent effect between the OD and ID.
Well if you go with soft tubing then ofc there will be kink problem. The only way to entirely counter this is to use 90/45/etc degree fittings. The size don't really solve kink problem imo. After all, it depends on which looks better.
Thicker wall tubing has less chance of kinking and collapsing on tight turns, this is a fact.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Thicker wall tubing has less chance of kinking and collapsing on tight turns, this is a fact.
+ 1 Radnad

I use 3/8 ID 5/8OD norprene tubing, it is strong.
 

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I use 3/8ID 5/8OD and have one tight turn. I had no issues with kinking and it formed pretty well. I also like the thick walls at the fittings... less chance of splitting the tubing.
 

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As far as kinking goes, the best way that it does not do that while not going for L joints and such is to use anti-kink springs. Even if you have thick walled tubing and it initially does not kink - if it's under some stresses that "try to" kink it it might do so evetually at some later date when you are not watching - be it then the influence of somewhat elevated temperature in the case or loop or some jolt to the case or combinations of something else. A "poor mans" anti kink spring is a number of zip ties tight on the tubing at the bends. Working principle is essentially the same as with anti-kink springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the feedback. Looks like I'll go with 3/8ID 5/8OD, I now need to pick some up (thinking EK PrimoChill). I'm going EK components with Bitspower fittings, now I need to find some purple coolant or make my own.

Genuinely nervous about putting this new setup together but that's the fun of it to be honest, once I get my first setup down I will continue to improve it. Trying to hit 5.3/5.4 on my 4790k under this loop.
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Good luck with that.

It actually is relatively simple - just take your time and do stuff systematically. Most important part is to tighten the fittings into everything they need to go properly but not using excessive force, i.e., tight by just using hand, not wrench. If you do it systematically and do not forget to tighten everything up then nothing will leak. You can leak test without actually powering on your system by using a cheap second PSU externally and just putting pump into that (also sensible for filling the loop as that way you can easily power the PSU on and off as needed). You can "jump start" the 24 pin connector either by a piece of wire or most water cooling stores also sell these PSU jump-start plugs for few dollars.

O ring is what keeps the water where it is supposed to be and that does not need a lot of pressure to keep the seal watertight at reasonable pressure levels.

Edit: as far as significantly higher over-clocks go - these are not very likely even with custom loop when compared to against higher end air cooling with CPU. In my opinion the main benefit of water cooling is the dramatic temperature drop most GPU's get when going under water and normally also rather dramatic reduction in the noise they generate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the tips on how to tighten the fittings, that actually helps a lot. I often think hand tight is not tight enough and end up damaging something. I purchased a 24PIN jumper harness at microcenter for about 4$ and I will be using that, now since my pump is a PWM do I have to plug it into some type of power source so I can obtain the full speed of the pump during the bleeding phase?

Yes I agree with all the benefits of a custom W/C loop like you mentioned, I'm looking to cut down on the noise of the system as well as improve cooling. Currently my PC is aimed towards a wall and in the corner due to the layout of my room/desk. The machine it's self doesn't get too hot, but warmer than I would like. Not to mention when I had my GTX 760s with reference coolers the air flow they got was little to none. Mainly using W/C to drop GPU temps and add some aesthetics too.

I'm also thinking about running Mayhems Aurora Galaxy purple, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/24288/ex-liq-388/Mayhems_Aurora_2_Coolant_Premix_-_1L_-_Galaxy_Purple.html?tl=g30c337s1809&id=qzgZ3GRu#blank. Any other brands or coolants you would recommend?
 

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I have no clue on dyed coolants. I'm more of a distilled water guy although as my systems are portable I tend to mix some car antifreeze in there to keep it from freezing down to approx -20C or so when in transit. I'll add a note in there that this car antifreeze can be pretty nasty stuff after a year or so on your loop as some component of it seems to be polymerizing out. Or it might be just plastiziser sucked out of tubing over longterm use.

Would it not be a better option to use colored tubing if you want some color? If you need a dye in there something from Mayhem is probably as good as it gets for dyes.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carniflex View Post

I have no clue on dyed coolants. I'm more of a distilled water guy although as my systems are portable I tend to mix some car antifreeze in there to keep it from freezing down to approx -20C or so when in transit. I'll add a note in there that this car antifreeze can be pretty nasty stuff after a year or so on your loop as some component of it seems to be polymerizing out. Or it might be just plastiziser sucked out of tubing over longterm use.

Would it not be a better option to use colored tubing if you want some color? If you need a dye in there something from Mayhem is probably as good as it gets for dyes.
Anti-freeze for a car is some pretty nasty stuff indeed. I forget the time-frame, but I believe it starts to break down after a year or so and once it starts to break down it starts corroding pretty much any metal.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

+ 1 Radnad

I use 3/8 ID 5/8OD norprene tubing, it is strong.
Ditto.
I use 3/8 ID 5/8 OD primochill advanced LRT Never had a kink even with 180 degree tight turns.

I also use Mayhem's pastel and Mayhems X1.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMock View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Aurora is only meant for short term show use, you can't run it long term or it will break down in the loop. My favorite is EKs UV coolant.
I think EK coolant is just re-packaged Mayhems.
EK pastel is rebranded mayhems but their UV is not. Even pastel will eventually break down over a long time and clog the loop. Pastel looks awesome just requires more loop maintenance.
 

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All coolant 'breaks down' over time. Maintenance is a part of water cooling. Even those running distilled have to maintain their loop to keep corrosion at a minimum.

I don't understand why people think there is some magical fluid that doesn't break down and cause corrosion/gunk, etc.
 
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