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Vermin Supreme 2020
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone help clear up how this works?

Does the rating on the UPS need to match the rating on the power supply to prevent tripping or something?

I hooked my PC up to what I believe is a 3000VA rack mount APC UPS, and it still strokes out with my PC connected. Defective/dead unit, or am I missing something? The unit passes all tests just fine, and the battery still holds some charge. (inherited while shutting down an office, it's been powering switches n stuff for the last 3 years)

(9700k, 2080ti, 40 fans)
 

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The 3000 VA should be the power rating capability of the UPS. Even with the power factor, that should well over 3 times the power capability of your PC.

If the UPS produces a pure sine wave all the time and the battery is going out, maybe the actually power capability is much lower now. I would looking into the exact model of that UPS and see if it produces conditioned power all the time and how it does that (ie. devices run off the battery all the time and wall power continuously recharges the battery).

Cheaper UPS' run your devices on wall power and simply switch to battery power extremely quickly before your devices shut off. So your PC should work fine if the UPS is plugged in, then shut off when you pull the plug on the UPS if the battery is dead.
 

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Vermin Supreme 2020
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The 3000 VA should be the power rating capability of the UPS. Even with the power factor, that should well over 3 times the power capability of your PC.

If the UPS produces a pure sine wave all the time and the battery is going out, maybe the actually power capability is much lower now. I would looking into the exact model of that UPS and see if it produces conditioned power all the time and how it does that (ie. devices run off the battery all the time and wall power continuously recharges the battery).

Cheaper UPS' run your devices on wall power and simply switch to battery power extremely quickly before your devices shut off. So your PC should work fine if the UPS is plugged in, then shut off when you pull the plug on the UPS if the battery is dead.
thanks, this is a server grade APC solution, so it should do all the basic enterprise stuff.

the UPS began singing songs of freedom as soon as I turned the PC on.

My initial assumption is that this is beacuse the unit has a lower wattage than 1200, thus the 1200 watt spike @ post is causing it to stroke out. I guess I've gotta move the beast & get an actual model # off of it, see what its rated for. If it is indeed rated for 1200+ watts, then its a dead battery.

viable theory?

UPS output must match PSU max output = correct?
 

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9 Cans of Ravioli
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My initial assumption is that this is beacuse the unit has a lower wattage than 1200, thus the 1200 watt spike @ post is causing it to stroke out. I guess I've gotta move the beast & get an actual model # off of it, see what its rated for. If it is indeed rated for 1200+ watts, then its a dead battery.

viable theory?

why do you think your PC uses 1200w during POST?

there is a fraction of a second it uses more power when turning on but that happens way before POST and it shouldn't be anywhere near 1200W.
 
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Yes, my limited knowledge of APC/UPS units. Wattage of equipment connected to APC/UPS should match capable output wattage of said unit.
 

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Vermin Supreme 2020
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
why do you think your PC uses 1200w during POST?

there is a fraction of a second it uses more power when turning on but that happens way before POST and it shouldn't be anywhere near 1200W.
I assumed like everything else tied to the motherboard, it peaks for a split second at some point shortly after pressing the power button.

Yes, my limited knowledge of APC/UPS units. Wattage of equipment connected to APC/UPS should match capable output wattage of said unit.
https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/prod...er-LCD-120V-with-Network-Card/P-SMX1500RM2UNC

this is the model.

gonna connect via console cable later & run some proper tests. 99.99% chance the battery is dead, as its easily 10 years old.

based on those specs, 1.2kw peak, it should work fine for my system, pending a new battery.

I didn't think it was a hard rule. like I assumed as long as the standard draw of the tower didn't exceed the peak of the UPS, it wouldn't stroke out.

for example, at work we use 350w floor wart models that'll stroke out if you connect a printer to them, with or without the printer actually printing. We're not electricians, so no clue the actual reason why.
 

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Just hangin' out
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New batteries for sure.


A consumer UPS is basically supposed to give you time to shut down your PC normally, rather than have it instantaneously shut down, with power interruption. It is not to continually power the PC. That is what line voltage is for.

The larger the UPS capacity, the longer the time you can run the PC at a given load.

For example, my APC Back-UPS RS1500LCD has a rating of 1500VA/865W. At normal idle load of ~180W, I have ~30 minutes of runtime.

https://www.apc.com/products/runtimegraph/runtime_graph.cfm?base_sku=BR1500LCD&chartSize=large



I have a Corsair AX1200 PSU, which has absolutely nothing to do with how long the UPS will power the PC.
 

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Vermin Supreme 2020
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah, I've got the basics down. Looking for a new battery now, which should resolve the issue. & right, that wasn't really what I meant. (PSU size affecting UPS up time)

the main purpose for use (aside from it being free, and being a Floridian) is to clean up the power being delivered to my tower. The Power likes to wiggle quite a bit in this new sub division I'm living in. Hopefully it'll smooth out over time as the other houses get finished, and the infrastructure grows to truly support this obscene boom going on out here.

some day I'll figure out the actual reason why certain hardware combinations trigger UPSs, even if they aren't anywhere near triggering their max watts. It can only be amps at that point, right?
 

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Vermin Supreme 2020
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
not so free now, ~$240 replacement battery.
 

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not so free now, ~$240 replacement battery.

It's probably possible to disassemble the old official pack to get to the real batteries that are connected inside. You can then get a bunch of those batteries and put the old pack back together.
 

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Vermin Supreme 2020
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
that's a really good point. thanks for bringing that up, i'll take a look before clicking submit. Only worth my time if its gonna save a decent chunk though, tbh.
 

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Overclocker in training
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Hi,
Yep just pull the stick on label boom generic China battery revealed and half the cost but you might have to give bezo some dough :)
 

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Vermin Supreme 2020
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It uses 4x WP1236W batteries, which are anywhere from 30 for $45 a piece.

so yes, you've saved me ~$100. YOU'RE AWESOME!
Hi,
Yep just pull the stick on label boom generic China battery revealed and half the cost but you might have to give bezo some dough :)
bezos, tomorrow for $30.99x4 -.- what a Schmuck. there two'fers for $45, sketch.
 

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Vermin Supreme 2020
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
4x for $75 :D
 

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Overclocker in training
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Hi,
Yeah I looked up an old replacement battery a while back one of the review comments said pull the apc sticker lol :)
 

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Vermin Supreme 2020
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
yep, the "off brand" laptop adapters we order in bulk are all OEM with stickers over the OEM branding. not sure if they didn't meet spec or what, but they've always seemed to work fine.

same for the bobo brand SLI adapters on AMAZON for half the price. They have a metal sticker over the ASUS branding :D

point : its quite common in some places. Hell, Amazon Basics are mostly clones coming outta the same factories, from what I understand.
 

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yep, the "off brand" laptop adapters we order in bulk are all OEM with stickers over the OEM branding. not sure if they didn't meet spec or what, but they've always seemed to work fine.

same for the bobo brand SLI adapters on AMAZON for half the price. They have a metal sticker over the ASUS branding :D

Just like they do with chips, they bin parts too, and batteries. I use to vape and would buy B bin 18650s that were just as good as Samsung 18650s. Happens with all kinds of goods all the time, QC standards you may or may not notice and the part goes into the wholesale bin to get stamped as "generic" or "off brand".
 

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Hold on, you have *40* fans in your build?
 
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