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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking of upgrading my first watercooling loop from using Mayhems ultra clear tubing to either PETG or Acrylic tubing.

Since PETG is easier to handle I think I would first go with that, unless you guys have anything to convince me otherwise.

For the tubings and fittings brand though, can you guys recommend Barrow? I use all Barrow fittings in my current loop and I've had no leaks for almost 2 years now.

Also, I'm currently using Mayhems Pastel Green. If I was to switch to a clear liquid or at least non-Pastel (clear+dye) coolant, which betwern the XT1 or X1 is the best one to use?
@Avacado

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Going out with kids, will hit you up later tonight!
 

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I'm thinking of upgrading my first watercooling loop from using Mayhems ultra clear tubing to either PETG or Acrylic tubing.

Since PETG is easier to handle I think I would first go with that, unless you guys have anything to convince me otherwise.

For the tubings and fittings brand though, can you guys recommend Barrow? I use all Barrow fittings in my current loop and I've had no leaks for almost 2 years now.

Also, I'm currently using Mayhems Pastel Green. If I was to switch to a clear liquid or at least non-Pastel (clear+dye) coolant, which betwern the XT1 or X1 is the best one to use?
@Avacado

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Alright, so starting out, everything I recommend is from personal experience. The barrow fittings would be fine, but I prefer this brand of Bykski https://www.amazon.com/Bykski-Anti-Off-Rigid-16mm-Fitting/dp/B0872M3NZQ/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=bykski+anti&qid=1592089751&sr=8-8 The reason I prefer these is due to the massive anti-slip O ring. It allows for non-perfect tube runs to be leak free and offers a lot of play if your measurements are a tad off compared to a traditional O-ring. I HIGHLY recommend these, they have never leaked on me and you won't regret it, the build quality is great. As far as rotaries, go with BP fittings for your hard and dual/triple rotaries. I am pretty sure that Barrowch and Bykski are the same manufacturer sold under 2 brands to appear as competition, they are almost identical.

I would go for the X1 clear or This from ModmyMods. https://modmymods.com/modmymods-modwater-pc-coolant-clear-1-liter-mod-0275.html they are both very similar in quality and the mods is cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Alright, so starting out, everything I recommend is from personal experience. The barrow fittings would be fine, but I prefer this brand of Bykski https://www.amazon.com/Bykski-Anti-Off-Rigid-16mm-Fitting/dp/B0872M3NZQ/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=bykski+anti&qid=1592089751&sr=8-8 The reason I prefer these is due to the massive anti-slip O ring. It allows for non-perfect tube runs to be leak free and offers a lot of play if your measurements are a tad off compared to a traditional O-ring. I HIGHLY recommend these, they have never leaked on me and you won't regret it, the build quality is great. As far as rotaries, go with BP fittings for your hard and dual/triple rotaries. I am pretty sure that Barrowch and Bykski are the same manufacturer sold under 2 brands to appear as competition, they are almost identical.



I would go for the X1 clear or This from ModmyMods. https://modmymods.com/modmymods-modwater-pc-coolant-clear-1-liter-mod-0275.html they are both very similar in quality and the mods is cheaper.
I see. What did you mean by "non-perfect runs"? I'm assuming I would be able to re-use any male-female, male-male,or female-female rotaries that I have, right? If Bykski and Barrow are the same, does that mean the Barrow fittings also have massive o-rings?

How about fur tubing brands? Is Barrow a good recommendation?

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I see. What did you mean by "non-perfect runs"? I'm assuming I would be able to re-use any male-female, male-male,or female-female rotaries that I have, right? If Bykski and Barrow are the same, does that mean the Barrow fittings also have massive o-rings?

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A non-perfect run means that the tube does not sit perfectly in the fitting pressed against the hole. Lets say the tube is 1mm short, it would help make sure no fluid escaped the sides. Yes, you are correct, you can reuse any fittings you have that accept G1/4 threads. I would look to see, but last I checked only the Bykski variant offered the anti-off o-rings. You will first need to decide on a size, most common are 10mm ID/ 12mm OD or 12mm ID / 16mm OD.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A non-perfect run means that the tube does not sit perfectly in the fitting pressed against the hole. Lets say the tube is 1mm short, it would help make sure no fluid escaped the sides. Yes, you are correct, you can reuse any fittings you have that accept G1/4 threads. I would look to see, but last I checked only the Bykski variant offered the anti-off o-rings. You will first need to decide on a size, most common are 10mm ID/ 12mm OD or 12mm ID / 16mm OD.
Ok. That kinda scares me out but I guess that'd be part of the process. Is hardline tubing more prone to leaking compared to soft tubing because of the fact that it doesn't use compression fittings? Is the size a personal preference or does it have any effect on anything?

How about for tubing brand, is Barrow a good recommendation?

And do you have experience in handling acrylic? I'm still not settled with the PETG vs Acrylic debate as I heard Acrylic is aesthetically more pleasing.

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Ok. That kinda scares me out but I guess that'd be part of the process. Is hardline tubing more prone to leaking compared to soft tubing because of the fact that it doesn't use compression fittings? Is the size a personal preference or does it have any effect on anything?

How about for tubing brand, is Barrow a good recommendation?

And do you have experience in handling acrylic? I'm still not settled with the PETG vs Acrylic debate as I heard Acrylic is aesthetically more pleasing.

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IMO, Hard tubing is hard tubing is hard tubing. I have used Barrow, BP, EK, you name it, all the same to me. My experience in handling acrylic was bad and led me to give it up for ease of use with PETG. Honestly, the difference to me is they are both hard and acrylic is HARDER to manipulate. Aesthetically, they appear the same to me. A white or black colored acrylic on the other hand might be better as it would be less opaque, errr, not opaque at all.
 

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Hard line tubing does use compression fittings, what I linked IS a compression fitting and seriously, they are strong, they take something like 15KG of force to break the seal that massive o-ring has, I trust them over standard o-ring fittings any day of the week.
 

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acrylic.

petg doesn't age well supposedly.
 

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IMO, Hard tubing is hard tubing is hard tubing. I have used Barrow, BP, EK, you name it, all the same to me. My experience in handling acrylic was bad and led me to give it up for ease of use with PETG. Honestly, the difference to me is they are both hard and acrylic is HARDER to manipulate. Aesthetically, they appear the same to me. A white or black colored acrylic on the other hand might be better as it would be less opaque, errr, not opaque at all.
Hard line tubing does use compression fittings, what I linked IS a compression fitting and seriously, they are strong, they take something like 15KG of force to break the seal that massive o-ring has, I trust them over standard o-ring fittings any day of the week.
Ok. I was kinda hoping that there's a frostes/satin version for PETG but I guess you can only buy it for acrylic unless you do the sanding yourself of course.

Ok, I got it now. They're also compression fittings and I can see how those massive o-rings can give you significantly more play for your imperfect runs.

When doing runs, does the PETG tube have to be perfectly aligned to the component port to avoid cracks? If you remember my system here: https://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1286896-official-mayhems-users-club-1733.html#post28495742 , I'm trying to wrap my head around how to use PETG on that lower right hand side soft tubing in the pic (the one that goes to the bottom right port of the reservoir from the outlet of the pump). As you can see, it's a little bit angled to the left because of the way my pump is installed in the bottom bay.
acrylic.

petg doesn't age well supposedly.
How long of an age are we talking about before degradation though?

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I did a hard look at your setup and that lower right corner you are worried about... where does it go? Is that an X-flow rad? And I never owned a 1080, but if the EK blocks are the same, you have the inlet for the GPU backwards. If that is not an x-flow rad on the front, why don't you just eliminate that bottom run and put the rad out into the Res in at the top where that tube is? NVM saw your () It should be easily managed with double or triple rotaries or 45 angles. Just plug and practice, I have never come across a weird run or bend I can't solve with extenders and rotaries.

And Skupples is giving you a hard time. You are planning to run color, you won't see the difference in PETG, it might not last you 5 years, but 2 years worth is easily achievable with proper maintenance and probably longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I did a hard look at your setup and that lower right corner you are worried about... where does it go? Is that an X-flow rad? And I never owned a 1080, but if the EK blocks are the same, you have the inlet for the GPU backwards. If that is not an x-flow rad on the front, why don't you just eliminate that bottom run and put the rad out into the Res in at the top where that tube is? NVM saw your () It should be easily managed with double or triple rotaries or 45 angles. Just plug and practice, I have never come across a weird run or bend I can't solve with extenders and rotaries.

And Skupples is giving you a hard time. You are planning to run color, you won't see the difference in PETG, it might not last you 5 years, but 2 years worth is easily achievable with proper maintenance and probably longer.
Correct, that front rad is an X-flow. As for the GPU block, I swear that I know that the left side is the inlet port and the right side is the outlet port but I didn't notice that they were reversed until now. I don't know what I was thinking back then but I'm sure there was a reason for doing this, I just can't remember. If I'm right, I probably read something about reversing the flow in these EK blocks won't really affect anything but with the OCD in me I know I wouldn't risk that over anything.

Yeah, I've been watching videos about tube bending the whole day and it looks like the general recommendation is to go with PETG first especially for hardline beginners.

Do you just eyeball when tube bending or are you anal with measurements?
 

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Correct, that front rad is an X-flow. As for the GPU block, I swear that I know that the left side is the inlet port and the right side is the outlet port but I didn't notice that they were reversed until now. I don't know what I was thinking back then but I'm sure there was a reason for doing this, I just can't remember. If I'm right, I probably read something about reversing the flow in these EK blocks won't really affect anything but with the OCD in me I know I wouldn't risk that over anything.

Yeah, I've been watching videos about tube bending the whole day and it looks like the general recommendation is to go with PETG first especially for hardline beginners.

Do you just eyeball when tube bending or are you anal with measurements?
Eyeballed most of it, again, I bought so much tube that it didn't matter if I messed up.
 

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Ok. As for the bending kit, aside from the Thermaltake one do you have any other recommendations? How about for heat guns? I'm reading good feedback regarding the Wagner brand. Or is the cheaper unbranded Monsoon one suffice?

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Ok. As for the bending kit, aside from the Thermaltake one do you have any other recommendations? How about for heat guns? I'm reading good feedback regarding the Wagner brand. Or is the cheaper unbranded Monsoon one suffice?

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Any heat gun will do. The Thermaltake one I recommend because the mandrels are metal, not plastic and are of high quality.
 

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Hi there

Personally I use only Barrow fittings like for soft and hardline loops, I have built around 6 or 7 hardline loops, I used on two Bykski fittings which have been OK but still I preferred to use Barrow ones, I recommend get V4 fittings from Barrow, which I have used on several loops or occasions

Regarding the using PETG and acrylic tubing, I don't use it, personally I use or used Chrome plated tubing from Barrow or Bykski 12mm

Sadly any soft transparent or clear tubing will get cloudy, if you want to have for very long time nice clear tubing then you will need to have water temperature below 30°C, I remember friend built loop with single 360mm radiator and his water temperature have been in 40's during the summer days and he used on his loop DuraClear tubing and after 2 months we have seen tubing which has turned from nice clear to yellow and cloudy tubing

Cutting acrylic or PETG tubing is much easier than glass or even Chrome plated tubing, which one I prefer I think glass or chrome plated copper tubing is much nicer bit that's my personal opinion or preference

I will try post pictures of two loops which I have built just recently

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Any heat gun will do. The Thermaltake one I recommend because the mandrels are metal, not plastic and are of high quality.
Ok, got it.

Hi there

Personally I use only Barrow fittings like for soft and hardline loops, I have built around 6 or 7 hardline loops, I used on two Bykski fittings which have been OK but still I preferred to use Barrow ones, I recommend get V4 fittings from Barrow, which I have used on several loops or occasions

Regarding the using PETG and acrylic tubing, I don't use it, personally I use or used Chrome plated tubing from Barrow or Bykski 12mm

Sadly any soft transparent or clear tubing will get cloudy, if you want to have for very long time nice clear tubing then you will need to have water temperature below 30°C, I remember friend built loop with single 360mm radiator and his water temperature have been in 40's during the summer days and he used on his loop DuraClear tubing and after 2 months we have seen tubing which has turned from nice clear to yellow and cloudy tubing

Cutting acrylic or PETG tubing is much easier than glass or even Chrome plated tubing, which one I prefer I think glass or chrome plated copper tubing is much nicer bit that's my personal opinion or preference

I will try post pictures of two loops which I have built just recently

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
Are v4 Barrow fittings the latest ones and do they all contain anti-off o-rings?

I think I'd want to start with PETG for now. I also think glass tubing is the best but I don't think I have the skills/guys to try it yet.

Yes, below 30C water temps is impossible for me as I live in a tropical country where the average ambient temp is around 32C. So yeah, soft tubing sucks. Do cloudiness also affect PETG in the long run?

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