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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone,

This is my first post here so I hope I'm in the right place. I need some help regarding my most recent PC build.

Previously my watercooling setup consisted of a single EK SE 420x28mm radiator in the top of my Phanteks Enthoo Luxe case with 3 ML140 Pro fans, an EK XRES 140 D5 Revo Pump/Res combo, EK Supremacy RGB CPU block, Phanteks Glacier GPU Block and soft tubing. I was cooling my 8700k (with conductonaut liquid metal between the IHS and die) at 4.8Ghz 1.232V load voltage and my Strix GTX1080Ti in it's out of the box OC mode. Here is a picture of the old system:



For my new build I moved over the core components into the Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic case, however I switched from my old ROG Maximus X Hero to a ROG Maximus X Code, extended the reservoir, used rigid tubing and this time I'm using 2 radiators; an EK XE 360x60mm in the top and an XSPC EX360 360x35mm in the back as an intake. Both radiators are fitted with ML120 Pro RGB fans. Here is a picture of the new system:



While I am very pleased with the build aesthetically, it seems for some reason my temperatures are HIGHER than before...

Previously, after applying liquid metal to the CPU, in AIDA64 FPU Stress Test after about 15mins the CPU temp would be leveled out at 41-42C with the cores in the low to mid 50s. In 3DMark Time Spy Stress Test the GPU would stay around 50C. Both tests on my old system were running the fans at 1500ish RPM and the water pump at full speed.

Now, in my new setup, in AIDA64 FPU Stress Test after 15mins the CPU temp is at 46C and still slowly rising. In 3DMark Time Spy Stress Test the GPU is hitting 55C and hovering around there. Both tests on the new system were running the fans at 1500-1600RPM and the water pump at full speed.

Here are the AIDA64 screenshots.

Old system:



New System:



To me this makes absolutely no sense? I should have much better cooling performance now that I have far more total radiator surface area and thickness. The only other thing I changed was that I used Kryonaut thermal paste this time instead of Hydronaut, but Kryonaut is supposed to be better. I know I applied it properly as well.

There are still some little bubbles in the CPU block and sometimes I can hear what sounds like maybe little bubbles moving around in the top radiator (EK XE 360), but can those things really make that much of a difference?

I really need some help figuring this out. I am so happy with how the build turned out aesthetically but it's really bringing me down that all that work is leading to higher temps.. :(
 

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Eastern Bloc Electronics
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Lower waterflow ?

Same pump has to deal with more resistance coming from the extra radiator and more "twisted" loop.

You may need a stronger pump or you need to speed up the current one(IIRC D5 has a speed selector).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lower waterflow ?

Same pump has to deal with more resistance coming from the extra radiator and more "twisted" loop.

You may need a stronger pump or you need to speed up the current one(IIRC D5 has a speed selector).
Hey thanks for the reply!

I do have a D5 pump in there and it's running at full speed (approx 4400rpm). I don't think flow is an issue, but theres not really anything I can do to speed it up more. I actually tried slowing it down as well and the temps didn't change much.

Just now I tried removing the dust filter on the inlet and the CPU temp in AIDA came down to 43-44C and the core temps came down as well, I also tried removing the side and top panels and it actually came down to the same temps I had with my old setup. I guess that makes sense because I removed the top grill in my old phanteks case when running benchmarks. I guess the panels/filters are causing some restriction but even so I have far more cooling capacity now so I expected to see lower temps. I've left the dust filters off for now.
 

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My guess would be that your fans are not able to have a sufficient pressure to go through those thick rads with a sufficient airflow.
 

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in your original build you had a massive radiator being fed with near ambient temperature air
in this build you are sucking cool air from the back, cooling the rear rad
the only air the top rad is receiving has already been passed through the rear

so the top radiator will do minimal OR even heat the coolant

there is no way about it the air inside the case HAS to be warmer than ambient, even if it is just by a fraction of a degree

unfortunately the only way to confirm this is with coolant temps/deltas in your old build compared to this

If it were me, i would be drawing through the bottom and ventilating out the back and top in this case
 

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Overclock Failed...
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Flow diagram?
 

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PC Enthusiast
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Just flip the side fans around so you have both rads sucking air out of the case, that should fix it. Flipping it so they are both pulling air into the case would work but would make the case a hotbox so having them pull out is a better idea.
 

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Overclocker in training
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Hi,
What type of fluid are you using ?
Did you clean the cpu block after pulling it apart ?
 

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+1 Change all of your fans to blow air out of the case.

This isn't a heat issue due to adding a radiator, its because of how everything is setup in the new case.

A slight derail...Did you have to mod the case at all to fit the XSPC radiator? I thought the spacing of the fittings would interfere with the cutout for the side radiator. I ended up using two Alphacool XT45 360s rads in my o11. It was the thickest rad I could fit, that I figured would fit, in the side and not interfere with the USB type-C or any of the other front panel connections.


 

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It is because you are dumping hot air into the case and feeding the second radiator with hot air. Inefficient.

As OPs say have both radiators dump air from inside the case out of the case. Are there any other fan spaces you can use to set up a fan to help draw fresh air into the case?

My Case has two separate zones separated by a mid panel. The lower zone has an 560 intake and 1 560 radiator with fans pushing the air out. The second zone has 360 intake and 480 radiator with fans pushing air out. Both radiators are getting fresh, low temperature air from outside the case.
 

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I would set both rads to intaking cool ambient air.

By having both rads intaking the coolant temp is as low as it can be, so the air going into the case is cooler. With one intake one exhaust the coolant temps are higher so the air going into the case is warmer and the overall air flow rate is lower too.

In testing most cases will work better with both rads intaking but I haven't seen the o11 specifically tested.

Its commonly suggested that rads intaking will cook the internal components but when you have two rads worth of airflow going through the chamber it provides more air to cool and its lower temp air too so heat can't really build up.
 

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Hey bud I have gtx dual rads360 420 not ek.. but I had that problem switching last case. I do now have a cheap power supply so after I installed everything before mounting cpu block on cpu with its tubes hooked up. and no power to motherboard in case it leaks.. I will run pump and tilt pc all the way back hear bubbles then forward sideways also I will lift up cpu block hold upside down for few seconds bam system is bleed used to take me longer.
Also not sure but on my rads I read if you all looking at both inlets have intake flow to rad the right one and fluid come out left one maybe that is just because the way duals are made …
And last tip I delided my 9900k so I know what direction chip is running I made sure when mounting (cpu block I looked at micro fin orientation and made sure running length of chip.. good luck
 

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Check the cfm rating on the RGB fans. If I remember correctly, they have 1/2 the airflow as a non-RGB ML Pro. It's the reason I did not buy RGB fans.
 
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