[michinmuri]

Here's this...

http://www.indium.com/documents/appl...otes/98104.pdf

Looks like indium is the way to go, but not sure where to get it or how much it is.

As for adding the solder; carefully. My vision is toget the CPU as close to the liquid solder as possible, then when it sems like the right time to place it, drop it on there, but use gloves and goggles for protection against a potential splash. Also, just like grease, only a rice or pea sized bit will be needed.

As for the cooler, why would I want to reheat the solder? Oh, I think I see what you mean. It's hard to close the little lever on the CPU lock on the mobo with a hulking cooler on it. I guess you could put the CPU in the socket, drop a small amount of solder on there and then put the cooler on. This might be the only problem with this method.

 

[The Duke]

This lends a new meaning to "I pulled my CPU out of the socket with the HS"

 

[michinmuri]

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Duke This lends a new meaning to "I pulled my CPU out of the socket with the HS"

I do this all the time. Not sure how to when you (unfortunately) apply too much grease. It becomes more like glue than thermal compound.

Also, look at this...

http://www.indium.com/TIM/

possibly an enthusiasts dream.

 

[PaRaDoX_883]

I think it would work. But you kinda only got one shot, if you put the HS on wrong then its kinda.. ON, unless you could somehow get the soldering gun under there and heat it up again.

Another fun test would be to see if you could get the CPU hot enough for it to turn the solder back to liquid!

 

[PappyDan]

solder will only afix it's self to areas where flux is applyed.
no flux then the solder will just turn in to a ball.
most solder is 85 to 90% silver, you can even find pure silver solder.

the main problem is how are you going to cool it down before the heat does any damage.
now you can map the area for contact on the heat sink, flux that space and do what is called annealing.
that way all you have to do is flux the other part, heat up the heat sink to remelt the solder and just touch the two together to make a bond.
then your right back at the same question, how are you going to cool it down fast before any damage is done.

 

[sLowEnd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by michinmuri Here's this... http://www.indium.com/documents/appl...otes/98104.pdf Looks like indium is the way to go, but not sure where to get it or how much it is. As for adding the solder; carefully. My vision is toget the CPU as close to the liquid solder as possible, then when it sems like the right time to place it, drop it on there, but use gloves and goggles for protection against a potential splash. Also, just like grease, only a rice or pea sized bit will be needed. As for the cooler, why would I want to reheat the solder? Oh, I think I see what you mean. It's hard to close the little lever on the CPU lock on the mobo with a hulking cooler on it. I guess you could put the CPU in the socket, drop a small amount of solder on there and then put the cooler on. This might be the only problem with this method.

Coollaboratory's liquid metal pad has indium
To get it to melt and bond to your CPU, you have to heat it to around 60 degrees (I believe coollaboratory suggests running your heatsink without a fan for a few seconds)

 

[vgplayer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by michinmuri Here's this... http://www.indium.com/documents/appl...otes/98104.pdf Looks like indium is the way to go, but not sure where to get it or how much it is. As for adding the solder; carefully. My vision is toget the CPU as close to the liquid solder as possible, then when it sems like the right time to place it, drop it on there, but use gloves and goggles for protection against a potential splash. Also, just like grease, only a rice or pea sized bit will be needed. As for the cooler, why would I want to reheat the solder? Oh, I think I see what you mean. It's hard to close the little lever on the CPU lock on the mobo with a hulking cooler on it. I guess you could put the CPU in the socket, drop a small amount of solder on there and then put the cooler on. This might be the only problem with this method.

We use Indium to attach gold wires to our thin film samples in the physics' research lab I work at. One thing for sure is it is a pain to get it to stick to anything but then again our surface isn't a piece of metal.

 

[hiiyah777]

So have you done it yet?

I really want to know how it works out.

 

[michinmuri]

unfortunately no. Don't have the money yet, and I want to get more research. Also, I'd like to get a better heatsink (lapped TRUE possibly) and lap the CPU a bit more. Since lapping I've actually gotten a stable OC of 3GHz, which was my goal when I built this thing. I've gotten it to about 3.15 GHZ, but of course wasn't stable in windows. Also, I might want to track down a 5000+ BE before I do this, just to see how far I can push it. If I get this new job I am loking at, I'l be building something new, but for 4-6 months. Gonna wait for a Deneb BE that has a good stepping. Once I get this done I'll post some stuff.

 

[fashionnugget]

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaRaDoX_883 I think it would work. But you kinda only got one shot, if you put the HS on wrong then its kinda.. ON, unless you could somehow get the soldering gun under there and heat it up again. Another fun test would be to see if you could get the CPU hot enough for it to turn the solder back to liquid!

I really doubt you would. I'm fairly sure the processor would fail before the metal would melt....

 

[tieyouup]

Ive added a stock amd 64 (much modified) heatsink to my TT beetle h/s but i had to remove the stock TT mounting brackets first. The only way to get enough heat was to use a oxy torch worked perfectly but the TT copper base also fell off. Got that back on and alinged (scarey tho). Works perfect.

I suggest you try marking out on the base of H/S the exact position of the cpu apply heat to the base (have the H/s in some sort of jig) apply solder carefully place the cpu in place. I think you will only get 1 go at it. Ide like to see it work.

 

[Enigma8750]

You know I thought about the process that would work to bond the Cpu to the Cooler and I came up with a personal gas torch that you would make the CPU hot enough to accept the solder and the time it would take to bond the cooler to the CPU. Also the resale value of a torched CPU might not be too viable.. but If you plan on this test Please take video. Sounds like a winner for Youtube.

 

[michinmuri]

One thought of mine was to actually use some sort of drill (possibly have some enigineeer-type person to use a CNC machine) to groove out about a 1mm deep hole (in the shape of the CPU IHS) so the HS will actually cover the sides of the IHS a bit.

Also, anyone have recommendations on what cooler to use? I'm sure my current one will work but if I am goign to do this right I wanna see how far I can drop these temps. With a simple lap job and some diamond-based thermal paste versus AS5, I've gotten my FSB up about 6 clicks, which put me @2.99 Ghz on the CPU and 499MHz on the RAM. I know the RAM can go up to roughly 530 before becoming unstable, so I want to make sure I can get the best solder and HS available so I can keep my CPU from being he bottleneck. Here's some stuff I've been looking at. Anyone of these seem lke a great choice, or does someone else have a better option? I do prefer the ones that have the copper pipes where they will touch the CPU, and would like the base to be as small as possible in order to avoid conflict wih the lever that locks the CPU in place. Also, 4-pin fan connector. Anywho...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835202005

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835887016

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16835185046R

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835106075

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835154002

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835202004

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233014

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835202007

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835101010

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835101022

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835101017

 

[DiHydrogenMonOxide]

Bumb for an idea I want to see happen.

 

[*_*]

i wana c this happen

hope it all goes well

 

[sLowEnd]

Quote:

Originally Posted by michinmuri One thought of mine was to actually use some sort of drill (possibly have some enigineeer-type person to use a CNC machine) to groove out about a 1mm deep hole (in the shape of the CPU IHS) so the HS will actually cover the sides of the IHS a bit. Also, anyone have recommendations on what cooler to use? I'm sure my current one will work but if I am goign to do this right I wanna see how far I can drop these temps. With a simple lap job and some diamond-based thermal paste versus AS5, I've gotten my FSB up about 6 clicks, which put me @2.99 Ghz on the CPU and 499MHz on the RAM. I know the RAM can go up to roughly 530 before becoming unstable, so I want to make sure I can get the best solder and HS available so I can keep my CPU from being he bottleneck. Here's some stuff I've been looking at. Anyone of these seem lke a great choice, or does someone else have a better option? I do prefer the ones that have the copper pipes where they will touch the CPU, and would like the base to be as small as possible in order to avoid conflict wih the lever that locks the CPU in place. Also, 4-pin fan connector. Anywho... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835202005 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835887016 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...2E16835185046R http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835106075 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835154002 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835202004 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233014 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835202007 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835101010 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835101022 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835101017

None of them

Get this

http://www.petrastechshop.com/thulhecpucos.html

 

[Deegan]

would you just get better temps from lapping the chip and hs perfectly flat? i did and i dont use any thermal paste and i get great temps that way.

 

[Goolash]

How about this: remove the IHS, using a heat gun if it was soldered on (imbed the pins in something that won't melt, so the pins won't desolder and fall off, also be careful not to bump it, or you will spend some time re-soldering the capacitor banks around the cpu itself), then give the heatsink and the CPU to someone who has access to a solder reflow oven (such as myself), along with the purest silver solder paste you can find, and they can sandwich a very fine layer of the solder paste between the CPU and the heatsink base, rub it around, etc, to work the solder paste into the imperfections, just like you would with thermal paste, and run it through the reflow oven. Voila, your fancy heatsink is now your IHS, too, and the capacitors, which filter the power supply to the CPU will now be open to air, which will keep them cooler when you're overvolting the bejeezers outta the poor thing. Better yet, while you have everything apart, look up the part number printed on the top of the capacitor banks, find the spec sheet, and order replacements with a higher voltage tolerance.

Come to think of it, if the stock IHS is already soldered to the CPU, it probably would be rather tricky. CPUs are connected to their circuit board using little balls all along the underside of the chip, meaning the slightest bump during removal of the IHS could create solder shorts all over the place. And if that happens, well, some few of us (the same ones with access to a reflow oven, probably), could possibly remove it and try to clean off all the solder, then reapply solder paste to each of the hundreds of tiny little solder pads, and then, -maybe- manage to realign the chip by hand before running it through the oven, but I imagine it would be pretty tough to do by hand. The solder paste they apply at the factory is probably microns thick, and applied by robots in a hermetically sealed room, or some such.

 

[DiHydrogenMonOxide]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goolash How about this: remove the IHS, using a heat gun if it was soldered on (imbed the pins in something that won't melt, so the pins won't desolder and fall off, also be careful not to bump it, or you will spend some time re-soldering the capacitor banks around the cpu itself), then give the heatsink and the CPU to someone who has access to a solder reflow oven (such as myself), along with the purest silver solder paste you can find, and they can sandwich a very fine layer of the solder paste between the CPU and the heatsink base, rub it around, etc, to work the solder paste into the imperfections, just like you would with thermal paste, and run it through the reflow oven. Voila, your fancy heatsink is now your IHS, too, and the capacitors, which filter the power supply to the CPU will now be open to air, which will keep them cooler when you're overvolting the bejeezers outta the poor thing. Better yet, while you have everything apart, look up the part number printed on the top of the capacitor banks, find the spec sheet, and order replacements with a higher voltage tolerance. Come to think of it, if the stock IHS is already soldered to the CPU, it probably would be rather tricky. CPUs are connected to their circuit board using little balls all along the underside of the chip, meaning the slightest bump during removal of the IHS could create solder shorts all over the place. And if that happens, well, some few of us (the same ones with access to a reflow oven, probably), could possibly remove it and try to clean off all the solder, then reapply solder paste to each of the hundreds of tiny little solder pads, and then, -maybe- manage to realign the chip by hand before running it through the oven, but I imagine it would be pretty tough to do by hand. The solder paste they apply at the factory is probably microns thick, and applied by robots in a hermetically sealed room, or some such.

...Wow. How long did you think of this?
JK, sounds like a lot of time and effort but would be PURE ACTION.

 

[bk8509a]

I'm too lazy to backread, but I thought this would interest all of you. If you've ever tried to solder two flat surfaces metal together, IE a CPU Heat Spreader and a Heat Sink, it will not stick. Solder does not "weld" things together. It likes for wires to be put in it so that I can COOL while they're in there, and then the wires are now connected. It will just slide off of smooth surfaces, that's one of the best parts. If it falls on the table by mistake mom wont flip out because you can litteraly just push it off. IMHO, soldering to flat surfaces is out of the question without intense surface prep. Try Welding, but that's too hot.