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Water Cooling Components

629 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  MartaLualdi
I was reading OC'ing Noob's FAQ's, and I just wanted to run this by some of you water cooling gods:
  1. Danger Den Tubing Plug for 1/2IN ID Tubing (Single Plug)
  2. D-TEK Customs Fuzion CPU Water Block LGA775 with PRO-MOUNT 1/2IN Barbs
  3. Swiftech Adjustable Black Hose Clamps for 1/2IN Inner Diameter 3/4IN Outer Diameter Tubing (2 Pack)
  4. Swiftech MCP655-B 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump *Without Speed Adjustment* 1/2" Barbs
  5. Bitspower G1/4 High Flow 1/2IN Barb Fittings for 1/2IN ID Tubing (Pair)
  6. Primochill Black Nylon Tee Fitting for Water Cooling T Line 1/2 Inch Barbs
  7. Yate Loon D12SL-12C 120MMX20MM Quiet Cooling Fan 1300RPM 44CFM 21DB 3PIN & 4PIN Sleeve Bearing OEM
  8. Swiftech MCR220 Quiet Power Dual 120MM Water Cooling Radiator Black G1/4 Threaded
  9. Primochill Primoflex Pro LRT UV Green 1/2IN ID 3/4IN OD Tubing (10 Feet)
  10. Feser One Fluid UV Green NON-CONDUCTIVE Water Replacement for Liquid Cooling
  11. Logisys CLK12UV2 Dual UV Cold Cathode Kit 12IN 3.0MM
  13. Mod Smart Zip Ties UV Brite Green 7 Inch Zap Strap Cable Ties (10 Pack)
I'm new to water cooling, and right now I want to start with a cpu loop only. In total it comes up to under $300.00 CAD. I want to start off with a non-conductive coolant now because if anything leaks, it shouldnt completely destroy my pc as much as water.

I also want to use a T-Line as opposed to a reservoir, im just not really comfortable with it. Every 6 months or so I plan to change the fluid and clean the loop.

When I clean it, how would I drain everything? I was thinking of putting a second T-Line on the bottom to act as a drain line...

thanks for the quick responses btw
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For the pump, the mcp655 is an awesome pump, the D-tek fuzion is really good and the res you picked is nice too. For the fluid, I personally like using Petra PT Nuke with distilled water, most people like that stuff. The Yate Loons are awesome fans as well.

The draining process is a matter of preference. I hate t-lines because getting rid of air is so annoying with them. What I do for draining is make the res removable, then suck the fluid out with a squirtbottle, then disconnect one of the tubes from the res and let it drain out into a bottle or something. It works great, you just gotta be careful.

Good luck with your build!
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Just a heads up. The non conducting fluid won't stay non conducting. After a while it will just pick up charge when running through your blocks. Also you can probably pick most of your stuff and better down in the for sale section.
To drain just cut or remove the tubing at the lowest part of the loop.
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i had a feeling it'd lose its non-conductivity. I want it to be non-conductive during my leak tests so if anything goes wrong, it doesn't (severely) damage my components.

I'm thinking of adding a second T-line on the bottom because when I drain, instead of cutting the tubing, I can unplug the T-Line and drain it from there. The top T-line would be just for filling.

The only real fitting problem I have is the radiator on the two blowhole exhausts on my CM 690. It's been done before, so i can definitely do it as well. thanks for the approval.

for video cooling, is it really complicated to do? Because in the future i might consider it but if i do, I'll probably make a separate loop for it alltogether.
Depends on the card but some cards are really really easy and some are a real pain. For 260s...I forsee those as being a bit of a pain.

Originally Posted by MartaLualdi
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Depends on the card but some cards are really really easy and some are a real pain. For 260s...I forsee those as being a bit of a pain.

Why would it be a pain? Its no different from installing blocks on any other card. Remove screws, put on block, and your good to go.
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If you have never done it before, it's nerve racking! XD
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