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Hey guys, I finished setting up my WC loop today. I actually changed it, before the rad was mounted inside, then I put it outside the case, and the temps still are the exact same as when I was air cooling with the vendetta 2.

CURRENT LOOP


Earlier Loop (about 5 hours ago loop)



What would be causing me to have to temp change?

I have 3 fans on the rad. I ordered 4 Scythe Slip Stream Kaze Jyuni 120MM Fan 1200RPM 68.5CFM 24DBA

The loop consists of DD CPX-PRO --> MCR220 --> Apogee GTZ --> Temporary custom res --> back to pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
And yes, that is a custom pvc Red Green Rad.

I will only be using that for a few days, until my micro-res gets here.
 

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It could just need time to burn in. Btw it looks like you have a GTZ not a GTX.
Also it could be a bad seat.
 

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I'd do a few CPU block remounts, look at the TIM spread when you take the block off and see if it looks nice and even. Make sure there are no mobo components preventing the block from making good contact with the chip.

If you just set this up you might want to make sure all the air is out of your loop first. Shake your rad, or lightly slap it to knock off air bubbles.

Shake your pump to make sure it doesn't have a big bubble in it preventing you from getting full flow.

Tilt your rig around and see if you can work any air out of your block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by Dar_T
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It could just need time to burn in. Btw it looks like you have a GTZ not a GTX.
Also it could be a bad seat.

Yeah, sorry typo!

Quote:


Originally Posted by ira-k
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I'd do a few CPU block remounts, look at the TIM spread when you take the block off and see if it looks nice and even. Make sure there are no mobo components preventing the block from making good contact with the chip.

If you just set this up you might want to make sure all the air is out of your loop first. Shake your rad, or lightly slap it to knock off air bubbles.

Shake your pump to make sure it doesn't have a big bubble in it preventing you from getting full flow.

Tilt your rig around and see if you can work any air out of your block.


Hmm, yes I do hear bubbles still, its been on for hours.

The TIM looks pretty even and its on the entire cpu.
 

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Have the pump connected directly to the inlet of the GTZ instead of the radiator. The GTZ is pretty restrictive.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by [email protected]
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Have the pump connected directly to the inlet of the GTZ instead of the radiator. The GTZ is pretty restrictive.

Why would you want that? The pump does dump some heat out so its pretty logical that the rad should go infront for the coldest possible water to hit the cpu. Also the GTZ isn't restrictive enough to make it a chore for the pump.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by Dar_T
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Why would you want that? The pump does dump some heat out so its pretty logical that the rad should go infront for the coldest possible water to hit the cpu. Also the GTZ isn't restrictive enough to make it a chore for the pump.

Someone on XtremeSystems said that the GTZ should be connected directly to the pump I think.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by [email protected]
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Someone on XtremeSystems said that the GTZ should be connected directly to the pump I think.


Very misinformed....

To OP - As has already been suggested reseat the CPU block and make sure the loop is free of air bubbles, especially in the rad.

One thing that hasn't been brought up is your choice in fans. The MCR rads are very unrestrictive, but Scythe Slipstreams are not meant to work other than as unrestricted case fans. You would do better with some S-Flex fans, or any high static pressure fans, and make sure they are in Pull.
 

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Quote:


Originally Posted by [email protected]
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Someone on XtremeSystems said that the GTZ should be connected directly to the pump I think.


it really doesn't matter with the heat output in his system. i'll guarantee that there is less than a 1°C drop in temps from the inlet to the outlet side of this radiator. in these closed loop systems, the water in the rad will be at basically the same temp as the water in the pump or the water in the CPU block. unless you have something super hot, like a 600w pelt, the water temp won't change much from one part of the loop to the other.

one reason to have the pump out connected to the rad in is head and turbulence. the more turbulent the water inside the rad, the more all the molecules of the water get in contact with the surface of the rad and more heat is lost over the rad. of course the same applies for having the pump out connected to the CPU block in... more heat is picked up from the block.

and yes, OP, we need load temps.
 

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What air cooler were you using?

Edit : Whoops. Nevermind.
 

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44C maxed on load? I may need some water cooling, to bad I only pull like 35C stock clocks with stcok amd cooler
much better than the intel crap.

Aaron, he said it in OP, Vendetta 2.
 

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wow, ~40°C on air cooling on a quad? that's really good. what's your ambient temp?

i'm hitting 40°C at load on my sig CPU with 26°C ambients and on a 360 rad.
 

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I used to drop a couple of C across my rads, I use high cfm fans though to.

I've used single pumps since then and its more like a 1C or 1.5C across the rad with single pump, CPU block and 1 rad. But still a C or two is a C or two.

When your OC'ing every degree counts, especially when its as simple a thing as that.

The only time I wouldn't run it res-rad-cpu-is if it took a lot of extra tubing to get it in that configuration, it would defeat the purpose then.

I've tried my CPU jet blocks right after the pump and I just didn't get as good of temp's with my rig.

Thats always something that is easily tried if you want to, try it both ways and see what works the best for you.

Thats 90% of this stuff, you just have to try out various configs and see what it does for you, I've never had 2 rigs run exactly the same.

EDIT: You just need to keep working on your loop, the temps should come done.
 
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