Im not an expert at WC but ive heard that WC in cases or buying it as one kit isnt too good. Its better to get it piece by piece.
Watercooled case.. a no go?
Thermaltake Watercooled Case
Apparently, that case isn't a way to go. Some of my buds said to build it piece by piece? What does OCN reccomend for a first time watercooler?
Apparently, that case isn't a way to go. Some of my buds said to build it piece by piece? What does OCN reccomend for a first time watercooler?
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Building your own custom Water Cooling setup is always better in the long run. Most kits on the market can be beaten by High End Air Cooling....
2
You will be happy at first...then you may very well become bitter as you realise that you could have achieved better performance for about the same cost.
The only up-side is that you get a case....
Piece your own system together, you will be happier and more satisfied.
ira-k will be along shortly to advise you on what components to consider.
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The only up-side is that you get a case....
Piece your own system together, you will be happier and more satisfied.
ira-k will be along shortly to advise you on what components to consider.
2
Yeah I would stay away from T-Take WC'ing its not very good...
I just left a guy a WC'ing parts list in this link...If you want a better rad get the GTX for 70+ cfm fans..I use the 480 GTX and its a really good rad...If noise bothers you look at a Thermochill PA.3 they will cool well with lower cfm fans...
^^^^Ya beat me...
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....
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...Room temps? - Page 2
I just left a guy a WC'ing parts list in this link...If you want a better rad get the GTX for 70+ cfm fans..I use the 480 GTX and its a really good rad...If noise bothers you look at a Thermochill PA.3 they will cool well with lower cfm fans...
^^^^Ya beat me...
...Room temps? - Page 2
Depends how mobile you want your case to be. I bought a gigabyte Aurora case for the two 120mm fans on the back. One has a radiator on it...the other is the exaust. Though i got a crazy set up with quick disconects that when the PC is on my desk and I don't need to take it any ware I have a second larger radiator, a resavior, and a second pump in my loop.
However with that case all the water part are inside it. You just add water. So it woulf make for a good grab and go case.
Though my one small radiator does a good job by itself. Basically 50° if I am out of the house with it...30° when I got my extra goodies plugged in.
A good custom water cooling set up will probally cost a minimum of $175 or so...at least what I would call good. So you can decide for your self. I know of more than one person who got water for their C2D CPU and didn't get any more out of it then on air...though it now runs about 15° cooler. but as long as you are 60° you are safe with about any CPU.
However with that case all the water part are inside it. You just add water. So it woulf make for a good grab and go case.
Though my one small radiator does a good job by itself. Basically 50° if I am out of the house with it...30° when I got my extra goodies plugged in.
A good custom water cooling set up will probally cost a minimum of $175 or so...at least what I would call good. So you can decide for your self. I know of more than one person who got water for their C2D CPU and didn't get any more out of it then on air...though it now runs about 15° cooler. but as long as you are 60° you are safe with about any CPU.
Thanks guys. Seems like I'd save some money too.
Here are some good parts for a good custom watercooling setup:
Pump:
Swiftech MCP655-B 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump *Without Speed Adjustment* 1/2" Barbs
OR
Swiftech MCP655 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump 1/2IN Barbs *With Speed Adjustment*
Radiator:
(These following rads are best used with some high CMF fans because they are thick):
HW Labs Black Ice GT Xtreme 240 Dual 120MM Water Cooling Radiator Black 1/2IN Barb
OR if your on a tight budget, this rad:
HW Labs Black Ice Xtreme II Dual 120MM Fan Water Cooling Radiator 1/2IN Barbs
(These following rads are best used with some lower CMF fans because they are thinner and have a less dense cooling fin structure):
Thermochill Pa 120.2 Dual 120MM Fan Water Cooling Radiator 1/2IN Barbs
(the thermochill is thick, but it seems to perform well with both high and low CMF fans, but of course better with high CMF fans)
Swiftech MCR220 Quiet Power Dual 120MM Water Cooling Radiator Black G1/4 Threaded
NOTE: These are the 2x120mm size radiator, they also come in 1x120mm, 2x120mm, 3x120mm and the Hw Labs make 4x120mm radiator sizes.
Fans:
High CMF fans will always get you better temps with thick rads.
So if you dont mind noise go with these:
NMB-MAT (Panaflo) 120MM Hydro Wave Bearing Fan 1700RPM 68.9CFM 30DBA
If you like your PC silent, go with these:
Yate Loon D12SL-12 120MM Quiet Cooling Fan 1350RPM 47CFM 28DB
CPU block:
D-TEK Customs Fuzion CPU Water Block (a favorite and block of choice on the forums here.)
OR trailing close behind it:
Swiftech APOGEE GT/GTX
GPU nVIDIA 8800 series:
For you GPU, there are 2 options, a full coverage block that covers everything including the RAM, or one that just covers the GPU core and cools the other parts with passive cooling:
(personally i prefer full coverage but results show that just the core one gives you better temps)
Full coverage:
Ek Water Blocks Full Coverage NVIDIA GeForce 8800GTX/GTS
OR
Danger Den Full Coverage NVIDIA GeForce 8800GTX/GTS Water Block
Just GPU core coverage for the GTX:
Swiftech MCW60 GPU Water Block for Most NVIDIA & ATI Video Cards
Tubing:
Tygon R-3603 1/2IN ID 3/4IN OD OR 7/16IN ID 5/9IN OD
and/or
Masterkleer Pvc Tubing 1/2IN ID 3/4IN OD OR 7/16IN ID 5/9IN OD
Some like the 1/2IN and some the 7/16IN.
As tygon is more flexable, but also much more expensive than Masterkleer, i suggest you use Tygon for the tight curves you will need in you system, and the cheaper Masterkleer for the straight parts.
Save you some cost that way.
A radbox:
Swiftech MCB-120 "RADBOX" Revision 2 Black
You will need one of these to mount your radiator at the back of your case.
A "T" Line or reservoir: (OR both)
Now you can use what they call a "T" line or a reservoir in your watercooling loop.
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Clear HI-FLOW Water Cooling Reservoir. There are many good reservoirs out there, you just have to pick one that suits you liking, they all share the same purpose, which is just holding some coolant.
OR
For a "T" line you will need 2 parts:
Polypropylene 'T' 1/2IN Barb
and
Danger Den Delrin Fillport W/ Wrench They come in different colors.Blue,black,brass,etc.
Coolant:
For coolant there are many choices you can go with, look up some idea's on the forums.
Pure distilled water with 0% addatives will give you the best temperatures.
For much more detailed info you can go here:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...hlight=coolant
Personally i like these:
UV Reactive Pentosin G11 Coolant Additive (Blue)
You will also need a biocide to kill some evil algae growth in your system.I use this:
Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke" Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
I really like www.petrastechshop.com
I order from them all the time, they have great stuff and some excellent customer service.
For examples on "T" lines and all that take a look at My Rig in my sig bellow.
Pump:
Swiftech MCP655-B 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump *Without Speed Adjustment* 1/2" Barbs
OR
Swiftech MCP655 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump 1/2IN Barbs *With Speed Adjustment*
Radiator:
(These following rads are best used with some high CMF fans because they are thick):
HW Labs Black Ice GT Xtreme 240 Dual 120MM Water Cooling Radiator Black 1/2IN Barb
OR if your on a tight budget, this rad:
HW Labs Black Ice Xtreme II Dual 120MM Fan Water Cooling Radiator 1/2IN Barbs
(These following rads are best used with some lower CMF fans because they are thinner and have a less dense cooling fin structure):
Thermochill Pa 120.2 Dual 120MM Fan Water Cooling Radiator 1/2IN Barbs
(the thermochill is thick, but it seems to perform well with both high and low CMF fans, but of course better with high CMF fans)
Swiftech MCR220 Quiet Power Dual 120MM Water Cooling Radiator Black G1/4 Threaded
NOTE: These are the 2x120mm size radiator, they also come in 1x120mm, 2x120mm, 3x120mm and the Hw Labs make 4x120mm radiator sizes.
Fans:
High CMF fans will always get you better temps with thick rads.
So if you dont mind noise go with these:
NMB-MAT (Panaflo) 120MM Hydro Wave Bearing Fan 1700RPM 68.9CFM 30DBA
If you like your PC silent, go with these:
Yate Loon D12SL-12 120MM Quiet Cooling Fan 1350RPM 47CFM 28DB
CPU block:
D-TEK Customs Fuzion CPU Water Block (a favorite and block of choice on the forums here.)
OR trailing close behind it:
Swiftech APOGEE GT/GTX
GPU nVIDIA 8800 series:
For you GPU, there are 2 options, a full coverage block that covers everything including the RAM, or one that just covers the GPU core and cools the other parts with passive cooling:
(personally i prefer full coverage but results show that just the core one gives you better temps)
Full coverage:
Ek Water Blocks Full Coverage NVIDIA GeForce 8800GTX/GTS
OR
Danger Den Full Coverage NVIDIA GeForce 8800GTX/GTS Water Block
Just GPU core coverage for the GTX:
Swiftech MCW60 GPU Water Block for Most NVIDIA & ATI Video Cards
Tubing:
Tygon R-3603 1/2IN ID 3/4IN OD OR 7/16IN ID 5/9IN OD
and/or
Masterkleer Pvc Tubing 1/2IN ID 3/4IN OD OR 7/16IN ID 5/9IN OD
Some like the 1/2IN and some the 7/16IN.
As tygon is more flexable, but also much more expensive than Masterkleer, i suggest you use Tygon for the tight curves you will need in you system, and the cheaper Masterkleer for the straight parts.
Save you some cost that way.
A radbox:
Swiftech MCB-120 "RADBOX" Revision 2 Black
You will need one of these to mount your radiator at the back of your case.
A "T" Line or reservoir: (OR both)
Now you can use what they call a "T" line or a reservoir in your watercooling loop.
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Clear HI-FLOW Water Cooling Reservoir. There are many good reservoirs out there, you just have to pick one that suits you liking, they all share the same purpose, which is just holding some coolant.
OR
For a "T" line you will need 2 parts:
Polypropylene 'T' 1/2IN Barb
and
Danger Den Delrin Fillport W/ Wrench They come in different colors.Blue,black,brass,etc.
Coolant:
For coolant there are many choices you can go with, look up some idea's on the forums.
Pure distilled water with 0% addatives will give you the best temperatures.
For much more detailed info you can go here:
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...hlight=coolant
Personally i like these:
UV Reactive Pentosin G11 Coolant Additive (Blue)
You will also need a biocide to kill some evil algae growth in your system.I use this:
Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke" Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
I really like www.petrastechshop.com
I order from them all the time, they have great stuff and some excellent customer service.
For examples on "T" lines and all that take a look at My Rig in my sig bellow.
The fill port is over rated in my opinion...I just drilled a hole that was a near perfect fit for a 1/2 in barb and stuck a copper barb to pipe thread adapter fitting in. I just put the hose on it and it sits flush agaist the top of my case so it doesn't wiggle or move. Then I just have a cap on the other side. Cost me $1.50 for the fiting and cap...stupid fill port was goign to cost me like $15 after shipping and would have been a real pain to try to drain out of it.
I use this to fill (even though I have an external res...bleeds faster this way for some reason) and if I want to empty the loop I screw on a 9" copper pipe and tip my case on it side and hold open a quick disconnect and darn near every drop runs out safely into a bucket.
That reminds me...it about time I changed the coolant again.
I use this to fill (even though I have an external res...bleeds faster this way for some reason) and if I want to empty the loop I screw on a 9" copper pipe and tip my case on it side and hold open a quick disconnect and darn near every drop runs out safely into a bucket.
That reminds me...it about time I changed the coolant again.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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