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I already have the 2 external 1080 Rad :) Mo-Ra is extremly overpriced compared to these ,especially with shroud . And i dont want 18 fans . (I already own 2x5pack P12 )
If you already own the 1080s, that makes sense. But MO-RA are a good value considering their quality. And if you are going for looks, it’s unparalleled by Phobya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,182 ·
Im making an external box /frame for my 2 1080radiator ( 9x120mm surface each ) .
One side is open , with a dust filter . The radiator on the middle . The back side is also open , with fans pulling out air . Top and Bottom is sealed . So the air can only enter on the dustfiltered side / go through the radiator and exit on the back. BUT i dont want use 9fan /rad . I'd like to use 5 Arctic P12 /rad . My question is how deep box should i design ? Filter +1cm gap >Rad >> gap > exhaust fans . Obviously i want the 5 fan to pull through the whole surface of the 9x120mm radiator . So i need the fans to be a little further off . What is the optimal distance ? I was thinking 3-5cm is enough so they can cover the whole surface of the rad ?
And wich one is the better pattern to place the 5 fan ?
View attachment 2527118
About the only thing in you post I understand is "I'd like to use 5 Arctic P12 / rad..

You have 2 radiators. Each radiator is 360x360mm designed to use 9x 120mm fans. You want to use 5x Arctic P12 fans pulling air out of each radiator.

If that is what you want to do I would mount fans in an 'X' about 180mm from radiator. Radial fans should be spaced their diameter away from flat surface for optimum flow. Arctic P12 is is 120mm fan so it needs to be 120mm away from radiator. Obviously area from radiator to fans has to be sealed with only openings being for radiator and fans. I'm guessing each case will be about 360x400mm inside measurement (just big enough to fit radiator in). You don't need much space between front filter.

Hope that helps. Feel free to ask if you need more info.
 

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About the only thing in you post I understand is "I'd like to use 5 Arctic P12 / rad..

You have 2 radiators. Each radiator is 360x360mm designed to use 9x 120mm fans. You want to use 5x Arctic P12 fans pulling air out of each radiator.

If that is what you want to do I would mount fans in an 'X' about 180mm from radiator. Radial fans should be spaced their diameter away from flat surface for optimum flow. Arctic P12 is is 120mm fan so it needs to be 120mm away from radiator. Obviously area from radiator to fans has to be sealed with only openings being for radiator and fans. I'm guessing each case will be about 360x400mm inside measurement (just big enough to fit radiator in). You don't need much space between front filter.

Hope that helps. Feel free to ask if you need more info.
Yes exactly what I wanted to know . Thanx. Yeah the plan is 400 mm wide box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,184 ·
Yes exactly what I wanted to know . Thanx. Yeah the plan is 400 mm wide box.
Re-read my post. Will add that diameter of fan spacing from radiator is minimum. More will space likely work better. So 400mm from front of rad to back of fan would give you up to about 300mm from rad to fan. Obviously area from rad to fans only airflow opening are rad and fans. :)
 

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Hey all any help would be greatly appreciated on fixing me airflow issue below
Green Light Lighting Visual effect lighting Entertainment


With me 3600x getting idle temp from 40-68c ill set the cooler again maybe thats an easy fix.
excuse the messy case i am not one for pristine cable management.

Any way to better re organize my 3 fans or add or substract for me to experiment with?

I carried over me old gamaxx 300 from old build and case starting to think its way to big for this case(nimitz n5).

please any criticism fire away ive always been a budget set fella, hence the case:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,186 ·
Gamaxx 300 is not at all too big. In fact it is quite small. It's110x57.2x130.56 mm w/o fan / 110x75.5x135.7 mm w/ 120mm fan using 3x 6mm heat pipes is quite a small cooler. It has 3x 6mm heatpipes with a 130w TDP rating. I'm running a Thermalright ARO-M14O measuring 140x128.5x162.14mm w/ fan with 6x 6mm heatpipes rated 240w TDP on my 3600. Honestly, it has twice the cooling ability of your Gamaxx 300 and I find it about right for 3600 CPU.

5th post this thread is a guide to how airflow works and how to optimize case airflow. I suggest you read it.

What case, case fans and fan rpm to temp curves are you using?
 
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Hey all any help would be greatly appreciated on fixing me airflow issue below

With me 3600x getting idle temp from 40-68c ill set the cooler again maybe thats an easy fix.
excuse the messy case i am not one for pristine cable management.

Any way to better re organize my 3 fans or add or substract for me to experiment with?

I carried over me old gamaxx 300 from old build and case starting to think its way to big for this case(nimitz n5).

please any criticism fire away ive always been a budget set fella, hence the case:)
If I were to take a wild guess.....your airflow is is being hampered by an incredibly restrictive front panel coupled with RGB fans that likely have very little static pressure. Try popping off the front panel and see what happens to the temps.


What case, case fans and fan rpm to temp curves are you using?
Case is an Armaggeddon Nimitz N5, and those look like the stock fans (whatever they may be) - Armaggeddon Nimitz N5 Micro ATX See-Thru Side Panel Gaming PC Case
 

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The 3 case fans are a Rotanuim powersmart 4P-00G, yeah taking the front panel off was an idea I might just remove it and see what what happens.

Thanks for the direction, any idea if placing a cooler below the GPU would help expell it's heat in anyway?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,189 · (Edited)
I was guessing same as ciarlatano, just didn't say it. Wanted you to give us your case fan details before making assumptions.

GPU cooler fans flow air into up in. They exhaust air on all sides except side with fan and side that is PCB. This all means you can't remove heated air from GPU down and out bottom of case. You can use bottom intake fan to help supply GPU with cool air.

But none of this makes a bit of difference if your fans are not moving air as needed .. which is why I asked what fans you have.
 
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Thank you so much I'll go investigate more at least now I know my case and airflow are not ideal.
I'll go tinker with fan placements when the kids are away.

Highly appreciated all the expert advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,191 ·
Sorry, I missed you sayign you have Rotanuim PowerSmart 4P-00G fans. Their specs say 45cfm @ 1200rpm but give no static pressure rating. Static pressure rating of fan is really more important than airflow rating. My guess is their static pressure rating is quite low. 45cfm is not much and with no static pressure rating given I'm sure a couple good pressure rated fans would improve case airflow and give you lower temps.

Try running your system with front grill and filter removed, as ciarlatano suggested. Blocking all openings in front intake fan mounting panel not covered by intake fans will force air to move on thru case, not leak around in front of fans and end up going in circles. All of this is explained in 5th post this thread. 11th post this thread explains how airflow and static pressure ratings relate to real world airflow.
 
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Yep defenitly will invest in better fans, only caught onto your thread a few days ago and have been hooked ever since.
Most likely this budget case needs a teardown to get anything descent circulation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,193 ·
Yep defenitly will invest in better fans, only caught onto your thread a few days ago and have been hooked ever since.
Most likely this budget case needs a teardown to get anything descent circulation.
Best low cost fan I know of are Arctic P12 and P14. They can usually be found in the $5-8.00 range and perform almost as well as fans costing $24-30.
 
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Best low cost fan I know of are Arctic P12 and P14. They can usually be found in the $5-8.00 range and perform almost as well as fans costing $24-30.
I'm going to guess that the RGB was a big part of the decision buying that case. At least from specs, the P12 RGB shows the expected performance drop from the standard P12. No clue why adding RGB kills fan performance.

I would say go with the RGB eLoops, but with that front cover, they would howl like banshees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,195 ·
I'm going to guess that the RGB was a big part of the decision buying that case. At least from specs, the P12 RGB shows the expected performance drop from the standard P12. No clue why adding RGB kills fan performance.

I would say go with the RGB eLoops, but with that front cover, they would howl like banshees.
Indeed, Nimitz N5 front has very limited venting. Front has built in RGB so RGB fan only increase lighting inside of case. ARGB / RGB lighting strips are good low cost way to add RGB without compromising / sacrificing airflow performance with garbage fans using lights as sales bling.
 
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Thanks guys, really appreciate all the feedback.

I'll defenitly seek out them arctic fans, funny how after 2 decades of building PC I've never once thought about fan specs.
For me it was always just them rpm stats that mattered how wrong I have been.
Yes the small factor and them lights did hypnotism on me for buying that case and the low price.
 

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Thanks guys, really appreciate all the feedback.

I'll defenitly seek out them arctic fans, funny how after 2 decades of building PC I've never once thought about fan specs.
For me it was always just them rpm stats that mattered how wrong I have been.
Yes the small factor and them lights did hypnotism on me for buying that case and the low price.
But....have you popped the front panel off yet to see how much of a difference it makes?
 

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Before i beggin to write first my sorry to doyll :) for any upset i may make.
And also sorry about my english - american.

I know you are a fan of good air cooling and good fans.
As I have rewritten I have a 3700x processor and I cool it with a thermalright aro-m14g.
My case is a phanteks enthoo pro m with 2 silent wings 3 x 140mm high speed pwm at the front and they work depending on the temperature of the cpu. I also have removed the metals from the empty pci slots.
At a room temperature of 22C i have the 3700x iddling at 36-37C with about 230 tabs opened :)
At benchmarking i think the cpu reaches 65-70C. Also the CPU (Tclt/Tdie) reaches 75-76C max.

Now i found a 2month old Be Quiet PURE LOOP 360mm for 60 euros and i would like to ask if this a chance to get it and test it.
Could I reach better temperatures with it? Will the noise be louder?

Because in a few days I will have in my hands a ryzen 3950x, maybe it would be better to turn to Be Quiet PURE LOOP 360mm and leave the thermalright aro-m14g?
 

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But....have you popped the front panel off yet to see how much of a difference it makes?
Will be doing this today defenitly, I have already acquired p14 fans and have one as an intake behind the front panel so far MOBO temp is reduced it seems.
I think I had the wrong fans and case set up and was rightfully corrected by you guys👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,200 ·
Before i beggin to write first my sorry to doyll :) for any upset i may make.
And also sorry about my english - american.

I know you are a fan of good air cooling and good fans.
As I have rewritten I have a 3700x processor and I cool it with a thermalright aro-m14g.
My case is a phanteks enthoo pro m with 2 silent wings 3 x 140mm high speed pwm at the front and they work depending on the temperature of the cpu. I also have removed the metals from the empty pci slots.
At a room temperature of 22C i have the 3700x iddling at 36-37C with about 230 tabs opened :)
At benchmarking i think the cpu reaches 65-70C. Also the CPU (Tclt/Tdie) reaches 75-76C max.

Now i found a 2month old Be Quiet PURE LOOP 360mm for 60 euros and i would like to ask if this a chance to get it and test it.
Could I reach better temperatures with it? Will the noise be louder?

Because in a few days I will have in my hands a ryzen 3950x, maybe it would be better to turn to Be Quiet PURE LOOP 360mm and leave the thermalright aro-m14g?
Don't worry about it. You won't upset me. Your English is fine.

Your present system is doing well I'm assuming it is not very loud at full load. Probably just loud enough to know it's working hard.

60 euros sounds like a good deal. I don't know what they sell for where you are, but if you get it and don't like it you can probably sell it for at least that much. Why is person selling it?

I think if it was me I would buy it and try it out. Then if I didn't like it sell it and continue using ARO M14G. I'm running ARO M14O on my 3600 and find it a good coolers. ;)

I used a 280 for awhile but now it's just setting. As quiet as it was I still prefer air cooling. I had a dead 360 given to me but never used it. I am thinking of using both radiators in one loop, but haven't done it yet. :D
 
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