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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

i wanna buy these block :

The first one is tested by Jawz2cent here :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qo9m0KJrIy4
It perform like a supremacy EK




Or maybe this one is better with biggest fin?


Is there any difference between the different type of fin ? Better performance ? And what about copper against nickel ?

Currently i have 2 of this one, scrap aluminum, inside there is no fin...


Thank you for advice!
 

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I have bought crappy no-brand Waterblocks off fleabay before.... They suck (leaky after a few months) really would not recommend you do this

If you must......
Copper will be better for heat transfer, but make sure you are not mixing copper with aluminium etc, i.e. if your rads are copper then get copper blocks.
 

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If you ate going to get one of those blocks, go with the bottom Bykski block. I would pass on the others and go with air instead.

I've been wanting to get a couple of the cheap Chinese blocks to test, but haven't gotten time, and need to get more equipment make a test rig to collect decent data.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakethesnake438 View Post

I have bought crappy no-brand Waterblocks off fleabay before.... They suck (leaky after a few months) really would not recommend you do this

If you must......
Copper will be better for heat transfer, but make sure you are not mixing copper with aluminium etc, i.e. if your rads are copper then get copper blocks.
Which one did you use ? Acrylic and copper block or cheaper aluminum like the silver one ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by EMUracing View Post

If you ate going to get one of those blocks, go with the bottom Bykski block. I would pass on the others and go with air instead.

I've been wanting to get a couple of the cheap Chinese blocks to test, but haven't gotten time, and need to get more equipment make a test rig to collect decent data.
Guys thank you maybe should I buy acetal waterblock instead of acrylic which is more weak, and could crack by time ?
Acetal is stronger then acrylic no?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My rads are aluminum but never mind. I gonna use coolant and then change them by copper brass in mid term
 

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mixing metals will cause corrosion.

corrosion is bad mmmmkay?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

mixing metals will cause corrosion.

corrosion is bad mmmmkay?
I Know that's why I gonna put coolant car inside the loop. And quickly change the rads by copper one or love the aluminum outside the case.
Mixing alu and copper will corrode the alu not the copper

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew LB View Post

I came across that one cpu block when searching google for something last night.

http://www.liquid.cool/p/Liquidcool-Strike-ONE-CPU-Waterblock-Intel_63954.html
Yeah it's the same but except that it cost much more on this website. On eBay it's about 13$
 

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just know what you're doing with that. not to get all treehugger on you but . . . proper procedurers. . yadda yadda yadda.

btw, i seen people claim "honda red" works the best.
tongue.gif
 
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The desing of those blocks are "old" and the performance is not as good compared to a modern "jet design". But from those 3 the best one is the Bykski. Another option is getting a used waterblock from a reputable brand
thumb.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

just know what you're doing with that. not to get all treehugger on you but . . . proper procedurers. . yadda yadda yadda.

btw, i seen people claim "honda red" works the best.
tongue.gif
Thank you for your warning and your advice. I know people mixed copper and alu than starting to leak but they weren't aware of the risk. Lot of them used distilled water 100% xD

Right the pink or red one using by toyota should be the best but I have the yellow one. It should be ok too

I gonna mix distilled water and coolant

Quote:
Originally Posted by lexer View Post

The desing of those blocks are "old" and the performance is not as good compared to a modern "jet design". But from those 3 the best one is the Bykski. Another option is getting a used waterblock from a reputable brand
thumb.gif
I don't find used waterblock in my country.
You mean that the copper with square fin is old ?
But the fin of the byski are too large no?
It should be same performance ?

I found a video that show performance between old copper China block and a seidon 120v block. And 10C better for the China block
 

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you're welcome and thanks for the honda/toyota correction.
thumb.gif
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ppn7 View Post

Thank you for your warning and your advice. I know people mixed copper and alu than starting to leak but they weren't aware of the risk. Lot of them used distilled water 100% xD

Right the pink or red one using by toyota should be the best but I have the yellow one. It should be ok too

I gonna mix distilled water and coolant
I don't find used waterblock in my country.
You mean that the copper with square fin is old ?
But the fin of the byski are too large no?
It should be same performance ?

I found a video that show performance between old copper China block and a seidon 120v block. And 10C better for the China block
With a "good waterblock" you can lower at least 5 degrees. The fins of those waterblocks are too think so the water have less contact surface and that "serial flow" design is outdated. Now every waterblock from a reputable brand uses a "jet plate" to increase the pressure and speed of the water and the "center" input. The bylsky have a "center input" but lacks the "jet plate". IMO is the best of those 3
Sorry for the bad english ...
redface.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Quote:
Originally Posted by lexer View Post

With a "good waterblock" you can lower at least 5 degrees. The fins of those waterblocks are too think so the water have less contact surface and that "serial flow" design is outdated. Now every waterblock from a reputable brand uses a "jet plate" to increase the pressure and speed of the water and the "center" input. The bylsky have a "center input" but lacks the "jet plate". IMO is the best of those 3
Sorry for the bad english ...
redface.gif
Currently I have an i5 2500k + cooler master Tx3 evo
Overclock to 4.4ghz and 1.29vcore I reach 75C in OCCT linpack without AvX

So I tried this cheap aluminum block without fins inside

2 rads 240mm and I reach 60C

But when i OC to 4.8ghz and 1.38v the CPU reach 85C.

I don't know if there will be a gap betWeen Chinese copper block and for example a EK block for 50$

And by the way I aim to cool my 7970hd and all block will be better and less loud that the stock cooler

Please could you check this video and tell me if the comparison is fair ?
https://youtu.be/svDddDdR1kM

Thank for your help
 

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85c with 2x 240 radiator even a 4.8Ghz is horrible. A good aircooler can do much better at least 10ºC, specially for that CPU that is soldered and is well know for having good thermals. I see the video is a bit suspicious because the guy never mentioned what is the rest of the watercooling setup
rolleyes.gif

EDIT: I had a 2500K @ 4.8Ghz with a Noctua D14 in Prime 95 the max temps was arround 70ºc
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Now I'm not sure if the 85C was with AVX linpack OCCT or without. But I'm sure I that 60C was at 4.4 and 1.29vcore and 70C with AVX
But never mind 85C is too much so I think that's because of the bad aluminum waterblock without fins !!

But look this video know please, I'm really astonished ! 40C with 7970hd. Mine is 65/70C with stock cooler !

http://youtu.be/sHLXalkAW1M
 

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That radiator is too small for a 7970, probably can maintain 40°C for only four a couple of minutes, i had a 7970 with XSPC full cover and need at least a 240mm to maintain it under 45°c.
I'm not saying you have to buy a 150u$d nickel plated waterblock but at least get a decent one from a reputable brand, because is something that you rarely have to upgrade. For example i bought 6 years ago a Watercool Heatkiller 3.0 with all the mounting options was a bit expensive. But even today the performance is excellent compared to new blocks and in the "Watercool Shop" you can buy all his parts if you need a spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you for advice

I prefer to save money for my next upgrade.
I'm sure the old Chinese block could perform better then the aluminum one. And not bad against EK brand or other stuff even if it's not equal, maybe 6/7/8 degrees worst ?

Just need 70C max CPU at 4.8ghz and something quieter for my GPU at 60C
 

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I found something that you can uses as a reference for example the first and second waterblock uses a serial flow design similar to the EK Supreme LTX the difference is almost 8 degrees. But the EK waterblock have a much better fin design with tinnier fins = more surface. So in my opinion between 8 to 10ºC.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1505481/summer-water-block-round-up-2014
 
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