What to do with the thermal paste ?

1154 Views 26 Replies 12 Participants Last post by stevenma188, Mar 16, 2009

Gattsu

Discussion Starter · Mar 15, 2009

Just a quick summary.

Ordered a HDT-S1283, (tried to) install around 10 times, all went wrong (1mm air gap between CPU & heatsink).

The new HSF backplate will arive this week (counting from sunday, today, onwards), and should arrive thursday or so.

To install the HSF for the first time I had applied a generous amount of grease, and spread it with a little piece of cardboard mixed with plastic (a typical thin wall of a shoe box). I used the two lines method, and installed the HSF quite firmly. Although I 'almost' bent my motherboard several times, it's in perfect conditions, ignoring the slightly twisted heatsink fins of the motherboard and the HSF, too ('bent' a few, very slightly, so it doesn't matter, does it ?).

After some time I gave up and ordered the blackplate for 30 bucks. Also, it's literally impossible to get one from the local market, and had to be ordered without a choice. I have applied the stock fan since then, and it keeps around 50~55Âº idle (damn that's high) and reaches around 65ÂºC at load (ambient temps shouldn't surpass 35ÂºC, say 28ÂºC~33ÂºC).

My question now is what endurance does the grease have ?

1.) It's been almost 2 weeks, and I play a lot, so the CPU can be easily said to be at load for 4 hours straight, maybe more, at 65ÂºC.

2.) After the condition 1.), has the stock grease (that comes with the xigmatek HSF) dried already ? Or is it still moist and I can reapply the 'new' HSF once again without reapplying 'special' (since I ran out of the default grease that came with the Xiggy) grease ?
3.) In the case that the grease is already dry (on the CPU), how about the grease that is on the HSF ? (90% sure it's still wet).
4.) Either 2.) or 3.), should I remove the 'old' grease first whether it's wet or dry ? Or can I keep the old one, regardless of its condition ?
5.) How to remove it in both conditions (wet HSF, 'dry' (if it is dry, I don't know) CPU) ? Can it be done with 'home made' materials ? Say, I wouldn't like to buy a TX-2 or whatever for 40US$ to remove the grease and then buy the AS-5 for 20US$ :|.

Thanks

.

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newt111

· #2 · Mar 16, 2009

you should always replace thermal grease when changing heatsinks...if it ever gets dry, it's definitely needs to be changed. It should never be dry.

you can remove it with high Isopropyl alcohol, or this

Reactions: 1

sgdude

· #3 · Mar 16, 2009

the backplate should be under $10, you payed $30??!!??!!

Gattsu

Discussion Starter · #4 · Mar 16, 2009

That's a question out of topic. I live about 5k miles away from USA or newegg, that's Argentina, south america. I do not order the products myself, but ask someone to. Cheap products cost a lot, while a 1000US$ CPU (I7 965 or w/e) costs around 1165US$.

Unfortunately, I have no other option, but yet, the money isn't the 'limiting factor', so it's all good.

Quote:

you can remove it with high Isopropyl alcohol, or this

Great, I probably can get the 'official' product for 10 bucks or so.

Any other home made way ? What's isopropyl btw, is it 'scientific' or can be found in a regular home ? Just curious, I can go to some store and get it somehow anyway, but...

How about a new grease ? Any suggestions ?

And a guide to remove the old grease too, if possible, please.

BTW, the reason I'm saying it's dry because after a year or so, with my old P4, the grease was hard as cement when I removed both HSF and the CPU from the motherboard. It was at 'high' temperatures, but anyway, I'm just afraid after 2 weeks it gets like glue and I'll need to do something 'special' to remove it.

Oh and...in theory, is it even possible to remove all of the grease by using the finger or something ?

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Maddog7771

· #5 · Mar 16, 2009

and you dont want to apply large amounts of thermal paste just a little and spread it with a thin card or razor blade

Gattsu

Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 16, 2009

^- then any steel / 'tough' material and thin object would do to spread it ? What about the cardboard piece I used

? It's not the normal brown one, it's sorta mixed with plastic, and doesn't get torn up with use (I'd get a photo if needed).

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x2s3w4

· #7 · Mar 16, 2009

The way I remove it is with an old rag from a bed sheet or pillow case and goofoff that you can get from any hardware store. Many here also use a coffee filter because it is lint free. Whatever way you do it you must remove all of it. The only purpose to thermal paste is to fill the microscopic voids between HSF and CPU. Yours has slightly more voids because of the design of the heat sink but it is still best to use as little possible. Too much thermal paste and it acts like an insulator and causes higher temps.
This is the preferred method for your heat sink although it sounds like you used this method, second to last picture.
I would not use anything to spread it either, just apply it as shown and install the HSF.
Edit: there was a thread a while back asking how everyone applied thermal paste. I'd say 70-80% just applied the thermal paste without spreading it and installed the heat sink

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redalert

· #8 · Mar 16, 2009

you can also use a credit card or something similar to spread the thermal paste on. isopropyl is rubbing alcohol you can get almost anywhere that sells first aid stuff.

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guyladouche

· #9 · Mar 16, 2009

I never use solvents when removing thermal compound from my cpu's--just lint-free wipes you can get for lenses/eye glasses.

For applying, you don't need to (and sometimes you shouldn't) spread out the TIM before mounting your heatsink. I use AS5, and their method of application is specific to the type of CPU used (since orientation/placement of the cores can vary). Go by what the manufacturer of your specific TIM suggests for application. Often times you just use the tension from mounting the HSF to spread out the TIM.

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newt111

· #10 · Mar 16, 2009

this is one of the best right now
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835202006

and that alcohol you can get for close to $1 in the U.S. shouldn't be that much more where you live. it's just normal rubbing alcohol, jut check to make sure it's a high %--It'll be on the front of the bottle

gnolnats

· #11 · Mar 16, 2009

Spreading the TIM can cause air gaps which will retain heat. See this:
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...structions.htm
and this
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/downlo...mx2_retail.pdf

Reactions: 1

stevenma188

· #12 · Mar 16, 2009

I just use isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol and a paper towel. Than, right before installation I use a blast of compressed air just to remove any sort of dust or w/e.

zhevra

· #13 · Mar 16, 2009

I like using a plastic bag to spread thermal paste, you kinda can get more hands on. And no mess on your fingers : )

EntropyTTU

· #14 · Mar 16, 2009

These are my experiences...

I use a credit and spread it. It never fails to get the best results (roughly 2C difference at best sometimes), and as far as I can tell, if there are air gaps, they are negligible.
I have used: Artic Silver and I prefer Noctua NT-H1.

Coffee filters, toilet paper, or paper towels; doesn't seem to matter, no difference detected, ever.

Rubbing alcohol as a solvent: 90% rubbing alcohol is supposed to be recommended through myth over 70% or what ever; again, does not matter. The inert materials in 70% alcohol, if there are any effects, they are negligible.

Reactions: 1

Gattsu

Discussion Starter · #15 · Mar 16, 2009

So I need to get hand on a aqueous solution containing a high % of alcohol (not saying anything, just clarifying), right ?

Okay, I got a pharmacy right here, really close...

Thank you very very very very very very (the list can go on, and, however it may not look like it, I didn't copy&paste those 'very's) much for the info, would you like me to post the results and such ? I guess I've got nothing left but to wait for IT to arrive, eh.

ljason8eg

· #16 · Mar 16, 2009

I don't understand why you'd spread the TIM with your fingers. The heatsink will do the job for you when you seat it, and not have the risk of making a lot of air bubbles.

EntropyTTU

· #17 · Mar 16, 2009

Quote:

So I need to get hand on a aqueous solution containing a high % of alcohol (not saying anything, just clarifying), right ?

Nope. Does not matter. An .84 cent bottle of 70% rubbing alcohol from WalMart will be fine.

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redalert

· #18 · Mar 16, 2009

it looks like this

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newt111

· #19 · Mar 16, 2009

yeah, post those before and after temps..we wanna know how it helped

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EntropyTTU

· #20 · Mar 16, 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by redalert

View Post

it looks like this

lol...Very good.

A picture is worth.......

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