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Bonestorm Professional
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240 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Since PC Bang edition G102s sell for ridiculously cheap on eBay, I bought one to try but didn't like the shape. By happy coincidence the sensor and mousewheel location is a perfect match for both the Zowie AM and WMO, which are my two favourite shapes. I originally did this mod on the AM, but Amazon later had G203s on sale for $25CAD which is too cheap to turn down.

In my opinion the G102/203 easily has the best price to performance ratio of any mouse ever as it has a perfect sensor and Logitech's extremely low debounce, and costs less than offbrand/budget gaming mice. It's really a no brainer for a modding platform. Since the G Pro has an identical PCB layout, it will also fit.

The WMO I had added side buttons to from a previous mod so I was also able to take advantage of the G203 PCB having traces for side buttons.

I order to get the PCBs to fit, I did have to route away all the existing protrusions on the bottom shell and glue the PCB in. I used epoxy but I later found out that regular hot glue also sticks to mouse plastic extremely well, and is much less permanent. I didn't want to destroy any of the G102/203 shells, so I had to make my own mousewheel retainers which I did out of guitar picks. Old credit cards probably work well too.

The G102/203 have larger mouse wheels than the shells can take. On the AM I dealt with this by removing the rubber, and on the WMO I just routed the shell since that mouse is ugly anyway.

I also had to relocate the main button switches in order for them to line up with the part from the top shell that presses them. Gluing a flat piece of plastic to the prodders can also help extend the range at which they can reach the switches, or increase the footprint if you weren't perfect in your alignment when gluing down the PCB.

For some reason the AM happened to lose a bunch of weight in the process which I am happy about. Both mice ended up weighing less than 80g.

UPDATE: Made a Paracable for the AM.

UPDATE 2: Added pic of range extender for left and right button plungers.

UPDATE 3: Sanded down the dremel accident that was on RMB.
 

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Did you have to modify the buttons at all or did left and right mouse button line up well with the switches already? If they line up that's so amazing and I'm going to spend like $100 on a few WMO's and 203's. Why build one when you can build two at twice the price, right? :D
 

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Bonestorm Professional
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240 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Did you have to modify the buttons at all or did left and right mouse button line up well with the switches already? If they line up that's so amazing and I'm going to spend like $100 on a few WMO's and 203's. Why build one when you can build two at twice the price, right? :D
If you look at the pictures you can see the outline on the PCB of where the switches would normally be. I relocated them to the top edge of the PCB, where they line up 100% perfectly (WMO does need a bit of a range extension though). There happens to be a little lip thing on the 102/203 PCB where there's enough room to get a good glue surface, and still let two of the switch terminals poke out.
 

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Could I make a FK with G102/G203 guts as well the same way you did your AM? Would love to have a FK or WMO with upgraded buttons+sensor. How are the clicks on your AM and WMO now? Btw, sand down your top AM shell for lighter clicks, did wonders to my FK (more spammable, not by much but definitely noticable)
 

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Bonestorm Professional
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240 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Could I make a FK with G102/G203 guts as well the same way you did your AM? Would love to have a FK or WMO with upgraded buttons+sensor. How are the clicks on your AM and WMO now? Btw, sand down your top AM shell for lighter clicks, did wonders to my FK (more spammable, not by much but definitely noticable)
FK is the exact same layout to AM as far as I know. My AM shell is sanded down so the clicks are lighter than stock. It also helps to make sure your side buttons aren't adding any additional resistance to the shell buttons' travel. The WMO clicks are very light. Too light on the RMB at the moment actually. I extended the range of the plungers and the RMB is right up against the switch. It can be adjusted but I can't be bothered to at the moment.
 

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I'm curious, how did you actually manage to move the main mouse buttons to the top part of the g102/g203/g pro pcb? Struggling to figure the small bits out before I buy & attempt anything.
 

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Sanding the shell to make the clocks lighter, you say?

So basically you make the shell thinner?

I'm interested in doing this.
 

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Bonestorm Professional
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240 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I'm curious, how did you actually manage to move the main mouse buttons to the top part of the g102/g203/g pro pcb? Struggling to figure the small bits out before I buy & attempt anything.
Don't know if I'm too late on this but you can just glue the switch to the top end of the PCB. Switches have three terminals but only two are needed to complete the circuit so you bend one off and let that flat area go over the section of PCB that sticks out a bit to encircle the mouse wheel.

Sanding the shell to make the clocks lighter, you say?

So basically you make the shell thinner?

I'm interested in doing this.
Yes, it essentially makes the hinge thinner.
 

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AAGGHH~ MY EYES~ AAGGHH~
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3,571 Posts
How's that one frakenstein project involving a wmo and a cm storm inferno(i think that was it?) holding up?
 

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Bonestorm Professional
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240 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
How's that one frakenstein project involving a wmo and a cm storm inferno(i think that was it?) holding up?
It was an inferno, good memory! It lives on, as the body of this wmo! After figuring out that the superior Logitech pcb could be modded into the wmo shell, with a paracable to boot, that monstrosity became instantly obsolete. This wmo still has the side buttons from that very inferno though - my very first "gaming" mouse, and it lives on, like when Hank Hill took the gear shift from his dying truck.
 
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