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First off..sorry for my bad english..hope you can understand everything. 馃檪

My previous Build (aircooled) is getting really old.

Build in end of 2013

Asus Maximus VI Extreme
I7 4770k
Gtx Titan
Resolution 2560x1440

I can play Witcher/Kingdome come, hitman etc with okay fps but not on max.
I would like to do it in 60+ with max settings. Also similar games.
The question is, is it wort to go watercooled and oc or go air without oc(to keep good temperatures) but upgrading stuff more frequent?
I think i will also go sli in my next build.
 

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Yes its the First Generation of Titan.
The Cpu clock is near the standard (aircooled) not at home atm..have to check it first. Its Aircooled.
What is PSU?
 

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Honestly, the only thing I would do it upgrade to a 1080 or 1080ti if you can afford it. I have a 2600k Sandy Bridge that still runs every game just fine because I am using a 3440x1440 resolution. My 1080ti runs everything you can throw at it even with a 7 year old CPU.
 

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Yes its the First Generation of Titan.
The Cpu clock is near the standard (aircooled) not at home atm..have to check it first. Its Aircooled.
What is PSU?
PSU = Power Supply Unit, good quality is important for overclocking.

Kingdom Come Deliverance runs on Crysis engine and is both very graphics and CPU heavy. You will benefit greatly from a GTX 1080 upgrade firstly and an overclock on that CPU. Was able to run my 4770K at 4.5GHz around 1.27v and 4.3GHz at 1.18v on the Hyper 212 EVO air cooler. This paired with 4x4GB of Samsung Wonder RAM at 2133MHz and 9-10-10-21-2T timings at 1.575v.
 

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Upgrade to a newer GPU. You can get 1080s, 1080TIs and 1070s for close to msrp or if you want to buy used you can do that now or wait for new GPUs in a few months which will drop the prices on current cards even more. Or get one of the newer ones on launch.

As for the CPU you'd be better off overclocking it and preferably delidding it with Grizzly Conductonaut and a vise. I pushed the lid off my 4690k with no problems at all. You should be able to get to 4.5ghz pretty easily which would make it a much better performer than my chip and I haven't had any problems playing games, but I haven't seen a AAA title in a long time that interests me.
Still you shouldn't have any issues with your CPU at 60fps, the games I play like Fortnite run at between 200 and 120fps. Since your CPU at stock speeds is better than mine at 4.7Ghz I think it'll be relevant until 6+ cores becomes a standard for games.

With a 1070 or better, a cooler CPU with a higher clockspeed and some fast ram you'll get plenty more life out of your rig.
If you have 1333Mhz ram you might try overclocking it after you get your core speed dialed in, hit the cache speed after the ram.
 

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First off..sorry for my bad english..hope you can understand everything. 馃檪

My previous Build (aircooled) is getting really old.

Build in end of 2013

Asus Maximus VI Extreme
I7 4770k
Gtx Titan
Resolution 2560x1440

I can play Witcher/Kingdome come, hitman etc with okay fps but not on max.
I would like to do it in 60+ with max settings. Also similar games.
The question is, is it wort to go watercooled and oc or go air without oc(to keep good temperatures) but upgrading stuff more frequent?
I think i will also go sli in my next build.
well for me water cooling is a hobby, that gets better with time. so I have been water cooling for 20 years now, started with a swiftech CPU only kit. that has grown over the years, into the duel 360mm radiator rig I have today.

http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1615072-cpu-radiator-upgrade-water-cooled-rig.html

when I started all my hardware was inside of the case. as the years passed, I realized that having the radiators inside of the case was really not helping the system with cooling my hardware at all. so today I have all my radiators on the exterior of the PC case. I also use norprene tubing because it lasts for 20 years. as for weather it would be better to go water cooling, that is a personal decision, and no answer is wrong. personally my water cooled rigs run for 8 to 12 years before I upgrade them.

http://www.overclock.net/forum/61-water-cooling/1573189-serial-vs-parallel-9-6lpm.html
http://www.overclock.net/forum/62-peltiers-tec/1651377-full-system-tec-cooling.html

today I have a total of two water cooled rigs, and one extreme cooling rig.
 

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An OC on that card will get you minimal gains, it makes no sense to invest any money into it. You are far better off putting the money into a newer, and better GPU.
 

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when I started all my hardware was inside of the case. as the years passed, I realized that having the radiators inside of the case was really not helping the system with cooling my hardware at all. so today I have all my radiators on the exterior of the PC case.
I can understand the rear and top exhaust radiators, but never understood why front and bottom intakes are used, besides someone copying and pasting what they saw from some youtube guru. For what's normally put in a watercooled build, that's a TON of heat output to be dumping into your case on your components.
 

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I can understand the rear and top exhaust radiators, but never understood why front and bottom intakes are used, besides someone copying and pasting what they saw from some youtube guru. For what's normally put in a watercooled build, that's a TON of heat output to be dumping into your case on your components.
well for me there was a whole transition that occurred, my first system was a single 240mm radiator on the back to cool the CPU. I later added the GPU to the water loop, and another 240mm radiator. I tried every configuration possible, ending with the front radiator as intake and rear radiator as exhaust. this provided me with the best temperatures, but I was not happy so I built a radiator box out of a old PC case for my 3 X 360mm radiators. that worked great, what I learned is that radiators work better when they are not stuffed inside of a PC case. so I starting working on a way to get the radiators back on the PC case instead of inside of it.
 

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I can understand the rear and top exhaust radiators, but never understood why front and bottom intakes are used, besides someone copying and pasting what they saw from some youtube guru. For what's normally put in a watercooled build, that's a TON of heat output to be dumping into your case on your components.
Front and bottom rads can be set up as exhaust rads, and this is the configuration I recommend for most.
 

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Oh I forgot to mention:
If you're talking about a custom loop it would be cheaper just to buy a 1080 TI new or used assuming you want a loop that can beat a $70 CPU cooler.
If you are thinking about throwing a CLC on something there are some things to think about. Are you overclocked on the CPU as far as it will go? Is it delidded? The big air coolers are hard to beat with a CLC that costs twice as much, the Swiftech units come to mind and I'd only buy one with the biggest rad possible in hopes of getting to the next multiplier. They cost around $200 or more IIRC but they are built much better than the rebadged Asetek units that populate 90% of the CLC market and might cool well enough to gain 100-200Mhz but if the CPU isn't delidded it might not do much good since there is a layer of bondo between the cold plate and the die.
The better CLCs are great but unless you have pushed the CPU as far as it can go then what performance is there to gain? And since you have a really good CPU is the difference between 4.5Ghz and 4.7Ghz really going to do anything for you?

If you are talking about putting a $60 CLC bracket on your GPU with a thick $100 140mm CLC, you'll only get about 10% increase in performance if even that. The temp drop from a reference cooler to a CLC can be massive but to take advantage of that you might still need to modify the BIOS to get the TDP and voltage to really get enough clockspeed to make it worth while. Even if you got an additional 20% out of a [assuming] Keplar Titan it would still be pretty slow compared to todays cards.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nono, my intention was to build a complete new System. The Question is, is it worth to go Watercooled with the new one.
 

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Nono, my intention was to build a complete new System. The Question is, is it worth to go Watercooled with the new one.
That's a question that only you can answer. How much do you value silence? Lower temps are good but you can get good temps with air cooling, it just gets noisy.
 

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Nono, my intention was to build a complete new System. The Question is, is it worth to go Watercooled with the new one.
Depends on what you consider worth it. Most can get +5Ghz out of a 8700k and 2000Mhz off most Pascal GPUs. Since Nvidia screwed us on the BIOS the only way for the card to boost higher is by cooling it more.
If you are going to cool with water you'd want to have the best CPU and GPU available otherwise you'll get way more performance by simply replacing something with a better part and it would be cheaper.

Let's say water cooling guarantees 20% better OCs, do you consider 20% worth the $1000 or so it would cost to get a CPU and GPU cool enough to OC that much? Unfortunately water cooling does not guarantee 20% better OCs, the GPU will almost certainly have a nice +100mhz boost over a stock air cooler but you have to have a pretty good loop with plenty of rads and a deliddied CPU to really push it past what a good air cooler can do.
From what I've seen from people that pushed their stuff on air then upgraded to water, it's not uncommon to get the same clockspeed on the CPU or a 100Mhz boost from the extra thermal headroom while the GPU gets a 200Mhz boost over air. I've seen some cases where the CPU ran at similar temps as it did on air and others that got a really nice drop in temps.

The best way I know of to get max CPU and GPU clockspeeds for the least money is a great air cooler on the CPU with a thick 140mm CLC on the GPU, I don't like how CLCs look though especially on GPUs.

Is watercooling worth it? From a performance perspective no, not at all. It's a cool thing to do and you might get enough headroom to give a good boost to your OCs but don't expect 6ghz on the CPU lol. Many people to it as a passion, for looks but the ones that do it for OCs often have massive cases with loads of thick rads to get as close to ambient as possible.

If you are the type of person that's really comfortable pushing voltage and the money isn't an issue I'd say go for it but do your research first. You'll need to have plenty of thick rads and you'll want a GPU that isn't as locked down on the voltage and TDP if you really want to take advantage of the loop.
 

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Depends on what you consider worth it. Most can get +5Ghz out of a 8700k and 2000Mhz off most Pascal GPUs. Since Nvidia screwed us on the BIOS the only way for the card to boost higher is by cooling it more.
If you are going to cool with water you'd want to have the best CPU and GPU available otherwise you'll get way more performance by simply replacing something with a better part and it would be cheaper.

Let's say water cooling guarantees 20% better OCs, do you consider 20% worth the $1000 or so it would cost to get a CPU and GPU cool enough to OC that much? Unfortunately water cooling does not guarantee 20% better OCs, the GPU will almost certainly have a nice +100mhz boost over a stock air cooler but you have to have a pretty good loop with plenty of rads and a deliddied CPU to really push it past what a good air cooler can do.
From what I've seen from people that pushed their stuff on air then upgraded to water, it's not uncommon to get the same clockspeed on the CPU or a 100Mhz boost from the extra thermal headroom while the GPU gets a 200Mhz boost over air. I've seen some cases where the CPU ran at similar temps as it did on air and others that got a really nice drop in temps.

The best way I know of to get max CPU and GPU clockspeeds for the least money is a great air cooler on the CPU with a thick 140mm CLC on the GPU, I don't like how CLCs look though especially on GPUs.

Is watercooling worth it? From a performance perspective no, not at all. It's a cool thing to do and you might get enough headroom to give a good boost to your OCs but don't expect 6ghz on the CPU lol. Many people to it as a passion, for looks but the ones that do it for OCs often have massive cases with loads of thick rads to get as close to ambient as possible.

If you are the type of person that's really comfortable pushing voltage and the money isn't an issue I'd say go for it but do your research first. You'll need to have plenty of thick rads and you'll want a GPU that isn't as locked down on the voltage and TDP if you really want to take advantage of the loop.
I must have spent more than $1600 on my custom loop cooling an i9-7940X + 1080Ti and although I don't know how far air would take me I am extremely satisfied and my system is so silent I can barely hear it.

External MO-RA 420 RAD, EK Dual D5s, EK Monoblock, GPU Block, Bitspower Fittings, Heatkiller Res etc.

My Asus Strix 1080Ti OC - can doo 2063Mhz & 6000+ Memory and the CPU is not delided (YET) and I have set it at 2 Cores at 4.7GHz and 12 Cores at 4.4GHz. However, 99% it stays at 30C and 0.77V. Again I don't know if it was worth it for performance but the SILENCE I enjoy is unprecedented.

I intend to buy some more stuff in order to change the tubes to hard tubing (extra fittings mostly + tubes) but lets consider that the main loop will last me for several years so I consider it a good investment.
 
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