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Hi all,

I recently build a new PC in a Phanteks Enthoo luxe with an X99 and 2 KFA2 980 Ti in SLI config. The system is air cooled, except the CPU where I used the Corsair H110i GT. I use mostly SP140 and AF140 fans to get a slightly more silent PC. The thing is because of the position of the 2 980 Ti, which are basically one on top of the other, the temperatures of the upper card are almost constantly at 92 degrees (centigrades) while the bottom one is at 65. I've tried to move the lower card to the next lower slot but I have basically no space at all.

I've seen the post about maximum GPU temperatures and it seems I'm more or less fine. However and not considering any watercooled solution (which I will consider for sure in the future), is there any tip you can give me to try to bring the temperature down? Do you know the X99 and the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe? That would help to understand my particular problem.

I've been thinking on installing extra fans mid-case but I'm not sure I can attach this anywhere. Do you know of any spare piece I could buy to hook my fans to?

And last but not least my H110i radiator is installed on the top of the case. However because of lack of holes to hook the fans, I had to install the fans on top of the radiator as intakes, meaning
they are blowing hot air onto the upper graphic card. Would you recommend to set the SP140 fans as exhaust in pull configuration (without any fans pushing)?

Thanks a lot for any tip or advise. I can attach pictures if you need me too.

Cheers,
 

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Da Boss
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Increase airflow to the top GPU as it's sucking in air from the bottom GPU. Some things you can try:

Increase airflow throughout the case (especially to the GPU's)
Buy one of those MSI SLI connectors that have a built in fan (LINK
Move to water cooling,
 

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What motherboard do you have? If you're able to do so, I would space them out more. IIRC most X99 boards should have more options than just what you're using for two way SLI. You may have to pick up a longer SLI bridge.

Like NexusRed said your best option is going under water. Whether or not you can add space between the cards, its a good idea to try to get some air blowing directly between the cards. You could also try a more aggressive fan profile on the top card.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@NexusRed Thanks fot the tips! Yes, actually adding more airflow would be great, but my case does not seem to have any place where to mount mid-case fans. Although I've red somewhere that I should be able to screw them to the hard drive bays in the Enthoo Luxe. About the SLI I didn't know that existed but I'm not sure that will help much. And definitely watercooling would solve my problems but I already spent a big chunk here and would like to wait a bit before I go full watercooled.

@estabya I have the ASUS X99 Pro USB 3.1. The problem I see here is double: on one hand the HDD led, case power button etc... cables ar in the way if I want to move the lower card down. Maybe I'm missing something there but it seems like I cannot use any other slot. Also if I move it to a different slot I would lose the 16x/16x configuration I have now, although I believe that would not impact the performance much. Besides that the Enthoo Luxe has a PSU cover which is great, but to close to the MB, meaning if I manage to move the card down the fans of the card may hit the PSU cover! I think my best option is watercooling, but since I want to avoid that for now, I guess more airflow is the solution. Does any of you have a X99 like mine in 2-way SLI with more spaced cards? Thanks a lot for the replies, they are really useful.
 

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If your cards are currently in the top slot and the third slot then on that board you're actually running x16/x8 because the third slot is electrically only x8. You'll want to move it down one slot to run x16/x16. This will probably give enough space to improve the temps on your top card too. When running 780 SLI on an EVGA Z77 FTW, having the cards with one slot between them dropped temps by ~10C compared to right next to each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually I was confused, I said 1 and 3 but they are actually 1 and 4. The problem is I couldn't even fit the second in the 3rd slot as the cards are damn thick! I'll take a picture this evening (European time) and post it here, so you can see the setup. I wouldn't mind to go 16x/8x as I don't think I'll notice much impact, but I would prefer to run 10 degrees colder. By the way upper card fans are already at max. 2500 RPM so not much more I can do there. I could though set the profile of the lower one to a more aggressive one with the expectation to lower the temperature of the bottom one to see if it helps lowering the temperature of the top. Right now I have like 30 degrees difference between the 2 and they are both running at 60% according to Riva Tuner.
 

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Before moving to water coolers with my 2 GTX 980's, I had two 120mm fans mounted as intakes to my case side panel/door ... directly over where both cards were located. Both fans were blowing room air directly on to the two 980's and this drastically reduced the difference in temperature between the top and bottom cards.

This was easy with the Corsair 600T case as it comes with four fan mounts on the side panel door. For your case, if it has the clear plexiglass panel, you would have to mod the panel by cutting holes for the fans (and their respective screws for mounting) ... not a difficult mod if your slightly experienced with such things ... but whether you would have to mount the fans on the inside or outside of the panel depends on the case itself.

Otherwise, as others have said ... water cooling will bring your cards down to around 50C at load ... it's a *HUGE* improvement over stock air coolers (especially non-reference coolers which dump all their heat inside the case).

Best of luck...
 

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I'd just bite it and go water. NZXT Kraken G10 with a H55 on each will be enough. Will be a little expensive now but it's a one time purchase and it will work on all of your future GPUs.

I went full water and bought a EKWB Thermosphere. 100% universal. Have copper shims and mounting brackets for both AMD and NV. Never have to buy another block again.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by NexusRed View Post

I'd just bite it and go water. NZXT Kraken G10 with a H55 on each will be enough. Will be a little expensive now but it's a one time purchase and it will work on all of your future GPUs.

I went full water and bought a EKWB Thermosphere. 100% universal. Have copper shims and mounting brackets for both AMD and NV. Never have to buy another block again.
I was fearing that was what you meant when you said water cooling......that would be a total mess in the case, and would provide very limited cooling for the VRMs. Would likely be better off biting the bullet and doing real liquid cooling. Even something as simple as a Swiftech H320-X2 and two GPU blocks would do a great job in the Luxe and would look great. Not to mention how much quieter it would be than three CLCs in one case. I got tinnitus just thinking about that.....
 

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Don't fret to much on the VRM cooling. Full blocks cost way to much for a one time use. I just bought a PCIE slot dual 120mm fan holder and mounted that under my GPU. Might be different for you cause your running an SLI. If you look at the Kraken G10 club, you'll see quite a lot of people using that setup successfully.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabr1e11 View Post

Hi all,

I recently build a new PC in a Phanteks Enthoo luxe with an X99 and 2 KFA2 980 Ti in SLI config. The system is air cooled, except the CPU where I used the Corsair H110i GT. I use mostly SP140 and AF140 fans to get a slightly more silent PC. The thing is because of the position of the 2 980 Ti, which are basically one on top of the other, the temperatures of the upper card are almost constantly at 92 degrees (centigrades) while the bottom one is at 65. I've tried to move the lower card to the next lower slot but I have basically no space at all.

I've seen the post about maximum GPU temperatures and it seems I'm more or less fine. However and not considering any watercooled solution (which I will consider for sure in the future), is there any tip you can give me to try to bring the temperature down? Do you know the X99 and the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe? That would help to understand my particular problem.

I've been thinking on installing extra fans mid-case but I'm not sure I can attach this anywhere. Do you know of any spare piece I could buy to hook my fans to?

And last but not least my H110i radiator is installed on the top of the case. However because of lack of holes to hook the fans, I had to install the fans on top of the radiator as intakes, meaning
they are blowing hot air onto the upper graphic card. Would you recommend to set the SP140 fans as exhaust in pull configuration (without any fans pushing)?

Thanks a lot for any tip or advise. I can attach pictures if you need me too.

Cheers,
Roberto
You might be able to get lower temperatures for your GPUs with a better application of TIM than what was applied at the factory, if you have not done this already.

I used Gelid GC-3 Extreme, with good results. Idle temperatures here are in the low 30s, and in the mid 50s under load (mid 70s when fully stressed for benchmarking). All of this with air cooling for the cards and CLC for the processor (see build specs below).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@s1rrah I've seen setups like that but don't want to "break" my case yet. I really like the front window view and I have no experience with DIY like that. But yeah, that would help. I saw yesterday that I may be able to mount a couple of fans onto the drive bays. Kind of give and take, as I would need to install the second bay which would block air from the front fans, but at least the second installed fan would be really close to the GPU. This of course while ignoring the fact that I'm adding 2 more fans to my case for a total of 7 case fans + 3 fans per each GPU! But I will give it a try as it is easy.

@NexusRed I know water cooling (full or not) is the way to go. I just spent so much money in the equipment that I would like to let it rest for a while. I would love though to add WC with white liquid to complete the setup theme and also bring down temperatures and noise. For now I'd only go there if I see that I cannot do much more, because playing for a couple of hours at 92 degrees doesn't sound like long life for my upper card
smile.gif
I agree though with @ciarlatano that if I go WC I would go all the way, also including the CPU that currently has a H110i GT, just because I like it more aesthetically.

I'm attaching pictures of the cards so you can see how they fit in the case. They are really big. I was surprised when I was getting them out of the box! You can see they use up 3 slots each. It is crazy.


 

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@stahlhart That would mean to unmount the cards, like when going watercooled right? I'm not sure I want to go there yet, but it is good to know that it can drive the temperature down. Can I ask you how close are your 2 cards? And what is your fan setup? If you look at my previous post you can see my cards are horribly thick, so they are really close to each other. Not sure thermal paste will help a lot in this setup. What do you think?
 

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Wow! That is some tight breathing space. Hitting 92 on the upper card seems good with a 250W space heater less than an inch below it.

A custom loop would seem the only option. That or spend a few grand on a custom LN2 temp-controlled injector nozzle that spits super-cooled air into the upper card's super heated fans.

Probably too late for a DIY blower mod. While the factory air coolers are generally crap with low static pressure fans and so-so TIM, even if you swapped out the TIM and thermal pads, you still would need to use better fans in a custom shroud/heat shield. ;-)

All that time effort better spent custom loop or high quality AIO, like the EK predator 360. Or.....sell the 980ti cards while they still have value and replace the pair of them with a single Vega or big Pascal. Or just sell one and bide the time in a cooler running rig.

Just for the fun and horror of it, get a <$10 digital thermometer with a remote probe. Place the probe between the cards near the lower card's VRMs and report back the shocking air temps.
biggrin.gif
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabr1e11 View Post

@stahlhart That would mean to unmount the cards, like when going watercooled right? I'm not sure I want to go there yet, but it is good to know that it can drive the temperature down. Can I ask you how close are your 2 cards? And what is your fan setup? If you look at my previous post you can see my cards are horribly thick, so they are really close to each other. Not sure thermal paste will help a lot in this setup. What do you think?
I finally got around to looking at the photo you posted, and I'm starting to agree with the others -- I think your options are either water cooling, or a larger case for air cooling. A good TIM application would never hurt, but you're probably going to need more than that.

I've got an Obsidian 750D, and my cards are in the first and fifth slots, X16_1 and X16/X8_3, so there are two slots of space separating them. The CLC radiator is up top, with the fans underneath pushing; the two front fans are intake and the single rear fan is exhaust.

Is that a shroud covering the power supply below your bottom slot? Do you have the option of removing that and lowering the bottom card two slots, or will that mess up your lanes?
 

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First thing I would do is take out the Luxe PSU cover so airflow from bottom front intake and bottom intakes can flow to the GPUs better. If you can lower the lower GPU to a lower PCIe socket all the better, and remove all unused PCIe back slot covers too.

You screwed up getting the H110 for CPU instead of putting the GPUs under water. Each GPU makes more heat than your CPU does .. and upper GPU doesn't even have a cool air source.

If you do go water cooling, don't waste money on CLCs like you did with your CPU. Get a Swiftech H220 X2, an extra radiator and a couple of blocks for your GPUs. Not exactly cheap, but at least they are decent quality and can do the job properly .. and if you need more radiator or need to replace something when it wears out you can instead of that 'throw-away' CLC you have.
 
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I start seeing the way here, and it looks more and more like custom watercooling
smile.gif
I agree that applying different TIM would make little difference, and wouldn't want to go there until I go WC. For me instead of going AIO I would prefer custom, just for the fun of it, although I will need to think carefully about what do I really want there. I see your point @doyll about screwing up with the CLC as now my GPU is not assisted by the CPU radiator/fans that would be used in an air cooled CPU system, I didn't think about it. Another point is that my radiator for the CLC is on top and the fans are on top pushing (meaning intake). I know this is worse for the GPU but I cannot install the fans underneath pushing (exhaust). Is it OK to have them on top pulling air? They are static pressure ones.

I also saw that my drive bays have the option to install 120mm fans, which could help a bit with the GPU colling. What I will try to do in the next weeks is:
  • Remove the PSU cover to improve airflow to the GPUs
  • Try to move the lower GPU to a lower slot, hope it is possible
  • Install a couple of 120mm AF fans on the drive bays and the stock Luxe 200mm at the front, all as intake
  • Change the CPU radiator fans to pull configuration for exhaust
All this just to try to improve my current situation without much investment. I will start looking for a custom WC loop anyway, but I think I will postpone it until I feel comfortable spending another bunch of bucks in my build.

I really appreciate all the comments, it has helped a lot. Please if you see any problem with the proposed approach let me know. Once I have the new setup I will report the new temperatures here so it can help anybody else with a similar problem.

PS:
@MicroCat If I can get one of the probes along the new 120mm fans I will do the test, just for fun. Any product you know? Or should I just look for "digital thermometer with a remote probe"?
 

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Most fans work equally well in pull or push application. Worst case is CPU will be a little warmer, but removing heated air out of top will likely help your GPU temps.

Please keep in mind that while all CLCs are a kind of AIOs, not all AIOs are CLCs. Switftech are and now EK Predator are basically pre-assembled component systems with a pump mounted on the radiator. They use quality radiators .. much better than the ones used in CLCs, and the use quality pumps, also much better than those used in CLCs. CLC pumps can barely flow enough water to cool a CPU .. they use less power to pump the coolant than most fans use to move air. Component pumps move several times as much coolant. CLC radiators are cheap aluminum needing dense fin spacing which requires high speed / pressure loud fans to move enough air for them to keep system cool under heavy load.

What motherboard are you using?

I have a KFA2 GeForce GTX 770 LTD OC White with 3x Arctic F9 PWM fans replacing the stock fans. This makes it thicker so requires more clearance, but it is very quiet. The fans do not work near as hard as the stock fans did. You may be able to cool things down with more airflow from bottom and front to top and back and if you could move lower GPU down it would give more airflow between it and upper one.
wink.gif
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabr1e11 View Post

I start seeing the way here, and it looks more and more like custom watercooling
smile.gif
I agree that applying different TIM would make little difference, and wouldn't want to go there until I go WC. For me instead of going AIO I would prefer custom, just for the fun of it, although I will need to think carefully about what do I really want there. I see your point @doyll about screwing up with the CLC as now my GPU is not assisted by the CPU radiator/fans that would be used in an air cooled CPU system, I didn't think about it. Another point is that my radiator for the CLC is on top and the fans are on top pushing (meaning intake). I know this is worse for the GPU but I cannot install the fans underneath pushing (exhaust). Is it OK to have them on top pulling air? They are static pressure ones.

I also saw that my drive bays have the option to install 120mm fans, which could help a bit with the GPU colling. What I will try to do in the next weeks is:
  • Remove the PSU cover to improve airflow to the GPUs
  • Try to move the lower GPU to a lower slot, hope it is possible
  • Install a couple of 120mm AF fans on the drive bays and the stock Luxe 200mm at the front, all as intake
  • Change the CPU radiator fans to pull configuration for exhaust
All this just to try to improve my current situation without much investment. I will start looking for a custom WC loop anyway, but I think I will postpone it until I feel comfortable spending another bunch of bucks in my build.

I really appreciate all the comments, it has helped a lot. Please if you see any problem with the proposed approach let me know. Once I have the new setup I will report the new temperatures here so it can help anybody else with a similar problem.

PS:
@MicroCat If I can get one of the probes along the new 120mm fans I will do the test, just for fun. Any product you know? Or should I just look for "digital thermometer with a remote probe"?
Oh, turn those fans around immediately. You are not only blowing heated air into the case, you are completely disrupting the airflow. You have lots of blow with no actual flow. That is a huge hindrance right there. Warm air being forced directly onto your top GPU with nowhere to go quickly enough.

Another big step without spending much much would be to replace the (awful godforesaken) Phanteks 200mm with a pair of F140SP or F140MP. Far more airflow with less noise. That will do far more for your GPUs that rigging a 120mm into the drive bays.

Looking at your total picture after that post, you are a victim of two things:
1. The incredibly myopic "use your CLC as an intake for better CPU temps!" crowd - and you are seeing what that 1-2 degrees gain on your CPU can do to the rest of your components.
2. The dreaded Phanteks 200mm. Well....all 200mm are pretty bad, it just sticks out more in a Phanteks because Tt/CM/etc users are far more likely to simply live with it.
 

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Good point!
thumb.gif


Definitely replace the F200SP with the 2x F140SP fans case came with. Remove the PSU cover and add another 140mm intake in the bottom.

If you have any other fans around a rear exhaust may help, but the more airflow front to back you have the better the cool airflow to upper GPU will be. This is why removing all unused PCIe back cover helps. With only the top exhausts all the other air will flow front to back and hopefully flow cooler air to upper GPU. Oh! Remove the HDD cages if at all possible. Especially the upper one. Adding fans on the HDD cages rarely helps. It's more airblow, not airflow. What we want is the front and bottom intakes to push the air from front to back of case. The exhaust vents are like the back side of a cooler with only a fan on the front. That fan pushes the air through the cooler. Good intake fans do the same thing.
wink.gif


Use the stock fan hub with PWM signal from one of your GPU PWM headers to control them. This will allow them to speed up and flow more air as the GPU fans speed up.
4th post in 'Ways to Better Cooling' explains how to get PWM signal from GPU fan header.

Another trick is to remove the center panel in the front vent, and add a 3rdinake fan in the 3x optical base above the vent.
 
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