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High Clocker
3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The point of the build was to prove to my brother that for $500NZD you build a PC more powerful then a Xbox one which is still priced at $639.00NZD here.

Parts list:
7700K APU
8GB 2400mhz DDR3
F2A88XN-Wifi Mobo
120GB SSD for OS
256 GB SSD for Installed games (he already has a 2tb external for backups)
300W PSU so in the future can add a graphics card.
Old RROD xbox 360 that I have laying around (got a lot of them since I use to fix them)

Steep one was measuring up how much space I had. Only had a dead laptop HDD at this point so used that as a idea of the size the SSD would be.

Everything mesaured up that it would just fit with 6mm clearance left so waited for rest of parts to arrive.

Test fit of everything before cutting the xbox 360 case up.
Had to bend the side out slightly so the power plug and switch would fit in. This is no problem since that will be cut anyway.

So cut everything and screwed it down. Found I had made a slight miss calucation. The 6mm clearence I had wasnt enough to let me plug the main power cable into the mobo since the clip on it was 8mm lol. So a bit of trimming to the clip and everything went together.

Next up was modding the ROL board so a old wireless xbox 360 controller could be used. Again I have heaps of spares of controllers and ROL boards and have done this mod a lot so was very simple.
Basically the top row of pins on the ROL board plug are just USB. So you just solder on a USB headder plug. The only difference is its 3.3V instead of the normal 5V so you just take the power from the orange sata power cable instead of USB pin headder.

Then you sync the controller with a play and charge cord. Of which I also have a few spares. Once its synced your free to use it wireless.

The next bit Im having trouble with and still havnt over come.
The power button is using the button on the ROL board. I thought it would be simple enough and it sort of was. But the problem is there is still a 830 ohm connection even with the button off.
So when you turn the PSU power on the PC starts up with out pushing the button. So if any one has any idea how to fix this I would appreciate it.

When you push the button again while it windows it turns off as it should. But it will only stay off for about 5-6 mins then turn its self back on so in that time you need to be sure to turn the PSU switch off if you want to to stay off.

The heat sink I used for the APU is a FX cooler since I had one spare and it looked to be 3-4X better then the stock one.
This allowed me to get a decent overclock on both the CPU and iGPU.

One thing I noticed was the CPU would down clock when the GPU was loaded up. Was easy enough to overcome this by setting a custom P state.
Made a BAT file that reset the custom P state when ever windows starts.
So on to stress testing it, Gave it a good few hours playing BF4 on low, running a whole heap of bench marks then left it over night running prime and furmark.

As of writing this now have just finished 12 hours of stress testing and all temps are fine and no errors detected.
Heres a video of it running and finished.
And here is the 3dmark score

Comparing BF4 on it with a PS4 the PS4 settings look to be a mix of low and medium at 720 res.
Having it on what looks to be the same settings it averages out around 70FPS with drops to low 60s.
It pulls 140W from the wall while playing, Where the PS4 was pulling 137W.
Under prime and furmark how ever it manages to pull 202W from the wall.

He will be using it with his 1080 30hz tv so I adjust the setting to give best quality while always staying above 30fps on 1080.
That setting was a mix of high and medium with no AA at 1080.
But I ended up just settling with Medium and FXAA which gave a nicer smooth image when your in close to things.

So its ready for me to give it to him for Christmas. Hopefully I can figure out that power button problem but if not I dont see too much of a problem with him having to use the PSU switch to keep it off after shutting it down.

Upgrade path:
Being a PC I had to think of a upgrade path for the future when he wants more out of it. I had been hoping the PCI-E 16X raise I ordered a few weeks ago would of shown up before Christmas but its looking very doubtful.

The plan with that was to mount it in the HDD bay of the xbox 360 case so I could hide it and the PCI-E power wires with the cover.
Then simply plug a GFX card into that when he is ready.

But for now it will have to wait a few month until his birthday. At which point ill install that raiser and maybe go halfs in a decent GPU that uses 200W or less.

Have to say im quite impressed with where APUs have gotten to with there graphics ability.
If I was to do the build again I would go for a 7850K instead and just pay the extra $60 more it costs. I went with the 7700K since I was expecting the iGPU to be a lot weaker then it is and to be replacing it straight away like the bench marks suggested that I looked at before ordering the APU. Maybe im getting better results due to better drivers being out now. (Its running on the 14.12 omega driver)

High Clocker
3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pin J1 and Earth on the ROL board. Which is basically the plug of the ROL board where it connects to Xbox mobo and is the pin the xbox uses to turn on.
May have to solder straight to the switch its self and cut the traces. Just removed the switch off another ROL board and just the switch its self has 2K ohm resistance, If I leave the traces connected then at the switch its still 830ohm so there must be a connection some where.

High Clocker
3,701 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tried soldering it straight to the button with the traces cut so its not connected to the rest of the circuit.
Well that stops the wireless bit of the board to stop from working so cant do that.

Guess the next option to try would be just put another slim line switch under the botton on the face plate since theres quite a lot of room under there. Only disadvantage is the light wouldnt shine though for the button anymore.
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