Does anyone know if these bypass OC boards will work with the R9 290, Hawaii Pro based GPU?
Now I see this post after I bought a kit . Not the kit I wanted but it always me to squeeze a little OC (84hz) from my monitor. I have a LDK-LE256 controller board that I have.... but no lvds cable. Impossible to find anywhere, so I'll PM you to see you have the board/lvds cable.I just replaced with Catleap with an Mbest 144hz, so I could sell parts to anyone that needs them. I have an set of overclocking capable PCBs as well.
Still need help with this? Did you use "atikmdag-patcher-1.4.6" then "CRU" to change the Hz?Does anyone know if these bypass OC boards will work with the R9 290, Hawaii Pro based GPU?
Yeah I did exactly that in order to go above 81Hz. I was surprised that the Radeon drivers will overclock from 60 to 81 without any 3rd party solution, but then I realized that 81Hz is the same as the stock max timing frequency of 330mhz that dual DVI supports. The patcher and Cru fixed it and now I'm at 96Hz. I did not need CRU because once it's patched you can overclock with AMD's driver's anyway.Still need help with this? Did you use "atikmdag-patcher-1.4.6" then "CRU" to change the Hz?
Tcon side from left to right, DVI board side from right to left with the DVI connector on the bottom, skipping the red sections which measure continuous to each other, so I think they are ground or power.I don't know if this is the right place to post this or if anyone can help me but here goes.
I have all the parts to overclock my monitor but i am missing the pinout for the LVDS cable on the mainboard.
Checking the datasheet for the TCON board LM270WQ1-SLA1 I can know the pinout for the 51pin and 41pin connectors but there is no information for the mainboard LDK-LE256 so I am stuck, i can use a multimeter and find the grounds and vcc but the rest is impossible.
Does anyone know the pinout or the name/reference/link for the LVDS cables?
Tcon side from left to right, DVI board side from right to left with the DVI connector on the bottom, skipping the red sections which measure continuous to each other, so I think they are ground or power.
5 top 1
6 bottom 1
8 top 2nd
9 bottom 2nd
11 top 3
12 bottom 3
13 top 4
14 bottom 4
15 top 5
16 bottom 5
21 top 6
22 bottom 6
24 top 7
25 bottom 7
27 top 8
28 bottom 8
29 top 9
30 bottom 9
31 top 10
32 bottom 10
DVI side has a block of four red, two on top, two on bottom from right
13 top 1
14 bottom 1
16 top 2
17 bottom 2
19 top 3
20 bottom 3
21 top 4
22 bottom 4
23 top 5
24 bottom 5
29 top 6
30 bottom 6
32 top 7
33 bottom 7
35 top 8
36 bottom 8
37 top 9
38 bottom 9
39 top 10
40 bottom 10
DVI side has a block of ten red, 5 on top, 5 on bottom from right
This is measured by me using a multimeter, but it is on you if this is incorrect and you damage your board!
Yes, your diagram is correct in how I measured. It looks like they are going from right to left on the tcon side, so just reverse my pins, so on the 41 pin, my pin 33 is their pin 1. On the 51, my pin 40 is their pin 12. It looks like the DVI board isn't utilizing all of the power and ground points, also note to skip the 10 bit pins as noted on the spec sheet.First of all... Thank you so much verick for taking the time to help out... I also am in the same situation as rubenmoniz...
I looked at what you have posted and its helped but I am still a bit confused so i drew this up a bit... Does this look accurate?... Was trying to compare with the T-con pin-out but it seems some of the pins might mismatch... I am probably looking at something incorrectly and I would love any help clarifying...
I attached the pin-out i was looking at for the t-con side... Maybe this isn't correct but I am not sure...
Almost none of your questions can be answered properly without knowing exactly what is inside the monitor in the first place.Hey guys, I was wondering if I got get any help in this.
I have the Yamakasi Catleap q270, this model never overclock past 65hz and I never really wanted to overclock it, so it always stayed default 60hz.
Lately, I have been expering something funny, pretty much when I turn the monitor on, it doesn't display anything, it is black (it is receiving signal properly and windows detects it). After about 5-10 minutes, I start to see some flickering in it, and about 20 minutes later, the flickering becomes the image that's supposed to be displayed by windows. 30-40 minutes later, the image displays properly, so, I'm referring this as my own warmup symptom, as the monitor has to warmup for 30 minutes before being usable.
In the beggining it took only about a couple of minutes, but the time is getting higher and higher.
So, my question is:
Is this issue related to, the LCD panel? Or one of the boards inside the monitor?
I'm asking this, because I'm trying to figure out, in case the issue is one of the boards, if overclocking would be something to try, or simply replacing my board would solve it.
After reading a lot, I realized that I would have to purchase these two board to overclock it if I wanted:
LM270WQ1 driver board LDK-LE256 / HY-2560M - which I can find in here:
LM270WQ1-SLA1 driver logic board 6870C-0340A T-CON connect board, which I found in here:
Now, if I buy these two boards to overclock it, do I need any new cables? Or are the cables that are already inside my monitor enough?
Final question, if the issue is simply in one of my monitor boards, what would be the board PN that I have to buy to replace it to fix this issue without resorting to the OC upgrade? If the cost difference is too high I guess I'll just stick to what I already have.
Any help is appreciated
Almost none of your questions can be answered properly without knowing exactly what is inside the monitor in the first place.
So, I don't know if what I'm about to say is helpful or not and I surely can't guarantee to what I'm about to tell you but I believe your monitor, if it was not originally an well known overclocking model, then your is most likely NOT the two cable tcon design (like mine wasn't). Is yours using display port or HDMI or is it a DVI?
Your issue is most likely to be in the main input pcb, which would be the HY-256 board you listed first as it supplies the power to the panel itself. I do not believe the panel itself has any issues. If I was you I would get the boards you found and send a message to the seller that you need the two LVDS cables to go along with it. Also, if you have a single cable board or display port or HDMI it is very likely going to need a different power supply as well. But we still need to see the sticker on the panel itself and the model number of the boards in question.
Now, if you can take it apart and take close up images I might be able to find a better solution from ebay but I'm not sure about that either until I know more about what you have inside your monitor. There are eBay sellers that have everything you need (except PSU) to do a direct conversion to 60hz Display Port, including the new cables you would need. At least there used to be sellers that did that. I have them bookmarked (saved sellers) at my home PC but I'm not home at the moment.
Let me know exactly what you have, with internal pics and I can do a much better job advising you. Do you have the ability to open up your monitor? Are you good with screw drivers and prying devices apart and more importantly putting them back together? Lol, let me know please and I could help you further.
P.S. By the way, if your here in the States it would probably be better to get these items from ebay, unless you feel really confident in using aliexpress. I mean the tcon is half that cost on ebay, and you can find an entire kit with cables around that cost.
T-CON https://www.ebay.com/itm/6870C-0458A-logic-board-LM270WQ1-SLA1-FULL-TESTED-T-CON/223480750751 (although I wouldn't buy this)
And if you have the SLA1 panel type already, this kit is a cheaper safer route because it already comes with the new LVDS cables etc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-D...60-1440-2K-LCD-LM270WQ1-SL-A1-B2/122939502641
Let me know exactly what you have please