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I just replaced with Catleap with an Mbest 144hz, so I could sell parts to anyone that needs them. I have an set of overclocking capable PCBs as well.
Now I see this post after I bought a kit :(. Not the kit I wanted but it always me to squeeze a little OC (84hz) from my monitor. I have a LDK-LE256 controller board that I have.... but no lvds cable. Impossible to find anywhere, so I'll PM you to see you have the board/lvds cable. :)


Does anyone know if these bypass OC boards will work with the R9 290, Hawaii Pro based GPU?
Still need help with this? Did you use "atikmdag-patcher-1.4.6" then "CRU" to change the Hz?
 

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Still need help with this? Did you use "atikmdag-patcher-1.4.6" then "CRU" to change the Hz?
Yeah I did exactly that in order to go above 81Hz. I was surprised that the Radeon drivers will overclock from 60 to 81 without any 3rd party solution, but then I realized that 81Hz is the same as the stock max timing frequency of 330mhz that dual DVI supports. The patcher and Cru fixed it and now I'm at 96Hz. I did not need CRU because once it's patched you can overclock with AMD's driver's anyway.

Thanks for replying though.
 

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I don't know if this is the right place to post this or if anyone can help me but here goes.

I have all the parts to overclock my monitor but i am missing the pinout for the LVDS cable on the mainboard.

Checking the datasheet for the TCON board LM270WQ1-SLA1 I can know the pinout for the 51pin and 41pin connectors but there is no information for the mainboard LDK-LE256 so I am stuck, i can use a multimeter and find the grounds and vcc but the rest is impossible.

Does anyone know the pinout or the name/reference/link for the LVDS cables?

This image (from this thread) shows the cables and the board seems to be the same even tough its the HY-2560M:

@siberx posted that he mapped the pins but his image is dead and hes last been online in 2012 : https://www.overclock.net/forum/44-monitors-displays/1225919-yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club-212.html#post16887300
 

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I don't know if this is the right place to post this or if anyone can help me but here goes.

I have all the parts to overclock my monitor but i am missing the pinout for the LVDS cable on the mainboard.

Checking the datasheet for the TCON board LM270WQ1-SLA1 I can know the pinout for the 51pin and 41pin connectors but there is no information for the mainboard LDK-LE256 so I am stuck, i can use a multimeter and find the grounds and vcc but the rest is impossible.

Does anyone know the pinout or the name/reference/link for the LVDS cables?
Tcon side from left to right, DVI board side from right to left with the DVI connector on the bottom, skipping the red sections which measure continuous to each other, so I think they are ground or power.


Left connector
1 red
2 red
5 top 1
6 bottom 1
8 top 2nd
9 bottom 2nd
11 top 3
12 bottom 3
13 top 4
14 bottom 4
15 top 5
16 bottom 5
18 red
21 top 6
22 bottom 6
24 top 7
25 bottom 7
27 top 8
28 bottom 8
29 top 9
30 bottom 9
31 top 10
32 bottom 10
33 red
DVI side has a block of four red, two on top, two on bottom from right

Right connector

1 red
2 red
6 red
7 red
8 red
13 top 1
14 bottom 1
16 top 2
17 bottom 2
19 top 3
20 bottom 3
21 top 4
22 bottom 4
23 top 5
24 bottom 5
25 red
29 top 6
30 bottom 6
32 top 7
33 bottom 7
35 top 8
36 bottom 8
37 top 9
38 bottom 9
39 top 10
40 bottom 10
43 red
45 red
46 red
51 red
DVI side has a block of ten red, 5 on top, 5 on bottom from right

This is measured by me using a multimeter, but it is on you if this is incorrect and you damage your board!
 

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Does anyone have a place to get replacement pcb? Having weird issues with the monitor. Lasts for about 10 minutes before it drifts to black screen. I know it's not the cables or power supply because I actually have 2 of these monitors and that one has no issues at all with the cables. I opened it up and didnt really see any loose cabling/ odd sights inside. Only thing i can think of is replacing the pcb.. what do you guys suggest?
 

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Tcon side from left to right, DVI board side from right to left with the DVI connector on the bottom, skipping the red sections which measure continuous to each other, so I think they are ground or power.


Left connector
1 red
2 red
5 top 1
6 bottom 1
8 top 2nd
9 bottom 2nd
11 top 3
12 bottom 3
13 top 4
14 bottom 4
15 top 5
16 bottom 5
18 red
21 top 6
22 bottom 6
24 top 7
25 bottom 7
27 top 8
28 bottom 8
29 top 9
30 bottom 9
31 top 10
32 bottom 10
33 red
DVI side has a block of four red, two on top, two on bottom from right

Right connector

1 red
2 red
6 red
7 red
8 red
13 top 1
14 bottom 1
16 top 2
17 bottom 2
19 top 3
20 bottom 3
21 top 4
22 bottom 4
23 top 5
24 bottom 5
25 red
29 top 6
30 bottom 6
32 top 7
33 bottom 7
35 top 8
36 bottom 8
37 top 9
38 bottom 9
39 top 10
40 bottom 10
43 red
45 red
46 red
51 red
DVI side has a block of ten red, 5 on top, 5 on bottom from right

This is measured by me using a multimeter, but it is on you if this is incorrect and you damage your board!


First of all... Thank you so much verick for taking the time to help out... I also am in the same situation as rubenmoniz...

I looked at what you have posted and its helped but I am still a bit confused so i drew this up a bit... Does this look accurate?... Was trying to compare with the T-con pin-out but it seems some of the pins might mismatch... I am probably looking at something incorrectly and I would love any help clarifying...

I attached the pin-out i was looking at for the t-con side... Maybe this isn't correct but I am not sure...
 

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First of all... Thank you so much verick for taking the time to help out... I also am in the same situation as rubenmoniz...

I looked at what you have posted and its helped but I am still a bit confused so i drew this up a bit... Does this look accurate?... Was trying to compare with the T-con pin-out but it seems some of the pins might mismatch... I am probably looking at something incorrectly and I would love any help clarifying...

I attached the pin-out i was looking at for the t-con side... Maybe this isn't correct but I am not sure...
Yes, your diagram is correct in how I measured. It looks like they are going from right to left on the tcon side, so just reverse my pins, so on the 41 pin, my pin 33 is their pin 1. On the 51, my pin 40 is their pin 12. It looks like the DVI board isn't utilizing all of the power and ground points, also note to skip the 10 bit pins as noted on the spec sheet.

The only things that are confusing me are on the 51 pin, ODC, LVDS, PWM, and Bit Select. I will have to remeasure those.

Edit: The ODC pin, 6th from the right on the Tcon side, goes to the bottom third red on the DVI. The LVDS, 7th from the right goes to the top third red. The PWM, 9th from the right on the Tcon, goes to the bottom second red from the right. Bit select, 27, from the right(pin 25 on my sheet since I wrote left to right) goes to top second red from the right.

2nd edit: It also looks like the power pins are the top and bottom rightmost red wires on the 51 pin.
 

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Hey everyone, I've run into a problem with my monitor and I'm looking for some help. I have an overlord x270c, which as far as I'm aware is the same as the old overclockable yamakasi catleap monitors. When my monitor was overclocked and my computer is asleep waking up the computer would result in the windows 10 lockscreen not displaying correctly. Everything would be frozen so you couldn't see the mouse cursor move around. After around a minute, the monitor would slowly start displaying more of the lockscreen properly and cursor movement would be visible but there would be a trail (a trail of cursors if that makes sense). After another minute, the lockscreen would be displayed correctly and there would be no cursor trailing. At this point movement would be completely fine. Now, this is not the main issue I need help with. I just brought it up just in case it can help with identifying the main issue or if it's related to that issue.

So the main issue I'm having is that a couple of days ago my dad was messing with the breaker box in the house while the monitor was on. He shut down the electricity in my room. After he turned the electricity back on the monitor stopped displaying any image. The monitor still receives power as the green LED light turns on when pressing the power button. It also gets detected correctly by my computer. I've tried using a different dvi cable and that didn't help. I've also tried reinstalling my graphic drivers or booting into safe mode. I'm guessing this is an issue with the t-con board but I'm not sure. If anyone has any idea on what may be causing the problem and if it's fixable please let me know, thank you.
 

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@verick Thank you very much for all your help and hard work, you were of tremendous help to me, I shall name my first child "verick".
@xchor Thanks for the visual aids and for clarifying the missing pins.

For anyone reading this I would add that for me the ODC and LVDS pins were 6th and 7th as per the LG datasheet.
@twokdavey I got mine from taobao through yoybuy, took a long time and one taobao seller sent me a lm300 board by mistake.
 

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So nobody has any advice for my issue that I mentioned a few posts ago?
 

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@Sunreeper with the little experience i have i can only tell you to check if its not the backlight that is broken and the lcd is still working, since its so dark without backlight the monitor might look off but is indeed on, grab a flashlight and try to illuminate the inside of the screen and check for a faint image.

I once replaced all the electrolytic caps on a monitor and that brought it back to life, more than that i cant really help.
 

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Hey I just got two of these on facebook last night. One lights up with its backlight and the PC recognizes it but it doesn't output video (and apparently worked a week ago.) Any ideas of what should look for when opening it up to see if I can fix it?
 

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Hey guys, I was wondering if I got get any help in this.
I have the Yamakasi Catleap q270, this model never overclock past 65hz and I never really wanted to overclock it, so it always stayed default 60hz.
Lately, I have been expering something funny, pretty much when I turn the monitor on, it doesn't display anything, it is black (it is receiving signal properly and windows detects it). After about 5-10 minutes, I start to see some flickering in it, and about 20 minutes later, the flickering becomes the image that's supposed to be displayed by windows. 30-40 minutes later, the image displays properly, so, I'm referring this as my own warmup symptom, as the monitor has to warmup for 30 minutes before being usable.
In the beggining it took only about a couple of minutes, but the time is getting higher and higher.

So, my question is:
Is this issue related to, the LCD panel? Or one of the boards inside the monitor?

I'm asking this, because I'm trying to figure out, in case the issue is one of the boards, if overclocking would be something to try, or simply replacing my board would solve it.
After reading a lot, I realized that I would have to purchase these two board to overclock it if I wanted:

LM270WQ1 driver board LDK-LE256 / HY-2560M - which I can find in here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52

and
LM270WQ1-SLA1 driver logic board 6870C-0340A T-CON connect board, which I found in here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52

Now, if I buy these two boards to overclock it, do I need any new cables? Or are the cables that are already inside my monitor enough?

Final question, if the issue is simply in one of my monitor boards, what would be the board PN that I have to buy to replace it to fix this issue without resorting to the OC upgrade? If the cost difference is too high I guess I'll just stick to what I already have.

Any help is appreciated :)
 

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Hey guys, I was wondering if I got get any help in this.
I have the Yamakasi Catleap q270, this model never overclock past 65hz and I never really wanted to overclock it, so it always stayed default 60hz.
Lately, I have been expering something funny, pretty much when I turn the monitor on, it doesn't display anything, it is black (it is receiving signal properly and windows detects it). After about 5-10 minutes, I start to see some flickering in it, and about 20 minutes later, the flickering becomes the image that's supposed to be displayed by windows. 30-40 minutes later, the image displays properly, so, I'm referring this as my own warmup symptom, as the monitor has to warmup for 30 minutes before being usable.
In the beggining it took only about a couple of minutes, but the time is getting higher and higher.

So, my question is:
Is this issue related to, the LCD panel? Or one of the boards inside the monitor?

I'm asking this, because I'm trying to figure out, in case the issue is one of the boards, if overclocking would be something to try, or simply replacing my board would solve it.
After reading a lot, I realized that I would have to purchase these two board to overclock it if I wanted:

LM270WQ1 driver board LDK-LE256 / HY-2560M - which I can find in here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52

and
LM270WQ1-SLA1 driver logic board 6870C-0340A T-CON connect board, which I found in here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52

Now, if I buy these two boards to overclock it, do I need any new cables? Or are the cables that are already inside my monitor enough?

Final question, if the issue is simply in one of my monitor boards, what would be the board PN that I have to buy to replace it to fix this issue without resorting to the OC upgrade? If the cost difference is too high I guess I'll just stick to what I already have.

Any help is appreciated :)
Almost none of your questions can be answered properly without knowing exactly what is inside the monitor in the first place.

So, I don't know if what I'm about to say is helpful or not and I surely can't guarantee to what I'm about to tell you but I believe your monitor, if it was not originally an well known overclocking model, then your is most likely NOT the two cable tcon design (like mine wasn't). Is yours using display port or HDMI or is it a DVI?

Your issue is most likely to be in the main input pcb, which would be the HY-256 board you listed first as it supplies the power to the panel itself. I do not believe the panel itself has any issues. If I was you I would get the boards you found and send a message to the seller that you need the two LVDS cables to go along with it. Also, if you have a single cable board or display port or HDMI it is very likely going to need a different power supply as well. But we still need to see the sticker on the panel itself and the model number of the boards in question.

Now, if you can take it apart and take close up images I might be able to find a better solution from ebay but I'm not sure about that either until I know more about what you have inside your monitor. There are eBay sellers that have everything you need (except PSU) to do a direct conversion to 60hz Display Port, including the new cables you would need. At least there used to be sellers that did that. I have them bookmarked (saved sellers) at my home PC but I'm not home at the moment.

Let me know exactly what you have, with internal pics and I can do a much better job advising you. Do you have the ability to open up your monitor? Are you good with screw drivers and prying devices apart and more importantly putting them back together? Lol, let me know please and I could help you further.

P.S. By the way, if your here in the States it would probably be better to get these items from ebay, unless you feel really confident in using aliexpress. I mean the tcon is half that cost on ebay, and you can find an entire kit with cables around that cost.

T-CON https://www.ebay.com/itm/6870C-0458A-logic-board-LM270WQ1-SLA1-FULL-TESTED-T-CON/223480750751 (although I wouldn't buy this)

And if you have the SLA1 panel type already, this kit is a cheaper safer route because it already comes with the new LVDS cables etc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-D...60-1440-2K-LCD-LM270WQ1-SL-A1-B2/122939502641

Let me know exactly what you have please
 

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Almost none of your questions can be answered properly without knowing exactly what is inside the monitor in the first place.

So, I don't know if what I'm about to say is helpful or not and I surely can't guarantee to what I'm about to tell you but I believe your monitor, if it was not originally an well known overclocking model, then your is most likely NOT the two cable tcon design (like mine wasn't). Is yours using display port or HDMI or is it a DVI?

Your issue is most likely to be in the main input pcb, which would be the HY-256 board you listed first as it supplies the power to the panel itself. I do not believe the panel itself has any issues. If I was you I would get the boards you found and send a message to the seller that you need the two LVDS cables to go along with it. Also, if you have a single cable board or display port or HDMI it is very likely going to need a different power supply as well. But we still need to see the sticker on the panel itself and the model number of the boards in question.

Now, if you can take it apart and take close up images I might be able to find a better solution from ebay but I'm not sure about that either until I know more about what you have inside your monitor. There are eBay sellers that have everything you need (except PSU) to do a direct conversion to 60hz Display Port, including the new cables you would need. At least there used to be sellers that did that. I have them bookmarked (saved sellers) at my home PC but I'm not home at the moment.

Let me know exactly what you have, with internal pics and I can do a much better job advising you. Do you have the ability to open up your monitor? Are you good with screw drivers and prying devices apart and more importantly putting them back together? Lol, let me know please and I could help you further.

P.S. By the way, if your here in the States it would probably be better to get these items from ebay, unless you feel really confident in using aliexpress. I mean the tcon is half that cost on ebay, and you can find an entire kit with cables around that cost.

T-CON https://www.ebay.com/itm/6870C-0458A-logic-board-LM270WQ1-SLA1-FULL-TESTED-T-CON/223480750751 (although I wouldn't buy this)

And if you have the SLA1 panel type already, this kit is a cheaper safer route because it already comes with the new LVDS cables etc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-D...60-1440-2K-LCD-LM270WQ1-SL-A1-B2/122939502641

Let me know exactly what you have please

Hey, Thanks a lot for the input. Both ebay and aliexpress should be fine. I just didn't go to ebay before because I couldnt find any parts (just copy pasted some huge strings to find nothing).
I just disassembled it and took as many pics as I could.
My model is the DVI-DL one. Since I have to replace at least one board anyway my preference would try to get an overclockable one, unless it gets too expensive. After taking the pics, I realized my panel is SDE3 (I don't if it supports OC even with the right parts unfortunately, if there's this option it would be perfect).

Anyway, I took as many pics as I could and posted here, I saw the kit on your link and even know I have some skills, my preference would be to try replace as few as possible parts (but I don't think that'll be possible, most likely i'll need a full kit + new PSU)

https://imgur.com/a/s8vsEXT

I'm no eletronics expert, but after taking the pictures, my HY-256 looks in really bad shape.

Finally, after some reading and checking the pics, and confirming my panel is SDE3 and this kit could prob fix my issue (although prob having the same button issue that I would have to figure out). If there's no OC option, I like the idea of this kit, (HDMI+DP), unless a new kit or just the HY-256 alone that only has DVI is like 10 bucks. Even with that, the kit might be better for me since the cables inside my monitor also looks horrible.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DVI-D...337704?hash=item23b8073de8:g:2dEAAOSwNXpchj2j

I didn't look a whole lot more, but do you know if there's an OC kit for my panel that also supports HDMI and DP? That would be really sweet.
 

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Well that was easy, all I needed was the LG sticker info, and with that you have the LM270WQ1-SDE3 setup. So just get a conversion kit for that. You will or will not need a new PSU because to be frank I have no clue what power your SDE3 requires. But this Kit requires a 12V 4A psu. The seller will, should have a link to the proper PSU as well if yours doesn't work. Again these kits are super simple dumbed down boards, so the GPU will do all the driving of the panel. READ the below listing very carefully please. I found this listing simply by typing "LM270WQ1-SDE3 controller driver kit" and I can not vouch for the seller, although they have good seller ratings, I would trust them myself at 99.5%.

Oh and these kits probably will not be drop in kits, in other words you may need double sided tape just to get them to fit, or like me may need to have the button PCB just hanging out on your desk, lol. But hey you get your working IPS 1440p monitor back for a much better cost over a new unit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DP-DV...r-2560-1440-2K-LCD-LM270WQ1-SDE3/123686129209
 
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