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Well that was easy, all I needed was the LG sticker info, and with that you have the LM270WQ1-SDE3 setup. So just get a conversion kit for that. You will or will not need a new PSU because to be frank I have no clue what power your SDE3 requires. But this Kit requires a 12V 4A psu. The seller will, should have a link to the proper PSU as well if yours doesn't work. Again these kits are super simple dumbed down boards, so the GPU will do all the driving of the panel. READ the below listing very carefully please. I found this listing simply by typing "LM270WQ1-SDE3 controller driver kit" and I can not vouch for the seller, although they have good seller ratings, I would trust them myself at 99.5%.

Oh and these kits probably will not be drop in kits, in other words you may need double sided tape just to get them to fit, or like me may need to have the button PCB just hanging out on your desk, lol. But hey you get your working IPS 1440p monitor back for a much better cost over a new unit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DP-DV...r-2560-1440-2K-LCD-LM270WQ1-SDE3/123686129209

After reassembling the monitor I got scared to death. I did a quick test and got input, then proceeded to fully close it. When I plugged, I was having the same warmup issue, but it took almost an hour to get it back. I really thought I had damaged something in the process :)
I'll get the kit on the link you showed. About the PSU i'll have to get a new one. The one that came with the monitor has that strange 4 pin setup, it's 24v 5a currently, so I'll just get a standard 12v 5a for the new board. Hopefully I'll be able to fit the PCB inside my case (maybe I can cut the bezel a little bit if needed to accommodate the PCB inside.

Thanks a lot for the help!
 

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After reassembling the monitor I got scared to death. I did a quick test and got input, then proceeded to fully close it. When I plugged, I was having the same warmup issue, but it took almost an hour to get it back. I really thought I had damaged something in the process :)
I'll get the kit on the link you showed. About the PSU i'll have to get a new one. The one that came with the monitor has that strange 4 pin setup, it's 24v 5a currently, so I'll just get a standard 12v 5a for the new board. Hopefully I'll be able to fit the PCB inside my case (maybe I can cut the bezel a little bit if needed to accommodate the PCB inside.

Thanks a lot for the help!
Wait, on second thought first try this. Write down the main PCB # from the board that has the power going to it and the output ports. Yours looks like it is similar to mine. So before buying that kit see if you cant use the numbers (model#?) from the board itself. Maybe, just maybe you can find that board alone for even cheaper? Unfortunately I cant see the numbers on your pics so I can't do the searching for you.

Oh and on the PSU, what I did was I found the main + power in on the board, and then the - and just soldered on my own connector. Yeah mine also needed a new PSU sadly. 5A would be perfect as that way the PSU is never over working and thus will last longer than the actual display itself.

By the way, my panel was the LM270WQ1-SDDB and I turned it into the SLA1 which is the overclocking model. I kept all the original parts just in case I ever need them, and I plan to eventually buy one of these kits with DisplayPort because we all know DVI wont be around much longer, lol.
 

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This would be the main PCB that has power connected to it. Looks like it's really old (DVI only). hy-2560m_dp_m rev.03
I did some googling and pretty much found outdated links without any stock and this (which doesn't look like will fit): https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...185646?hash=item1ccf7d642e:g:BGYAAOSwZntcuSUn

The kit is sounding like a really nice upgrade now that I think about it, since I won't have to rely in DVI-DL in the future (the adapter to hdmi is probably more expensive than the difference the full kit x board is), and I've been holding on my GPU upgrade just because of that, because most of the newer higher end GPUs do not have DVI anymore :(
 

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Wait, on second thought first try this. Write down the main PCB # from the board that has the power going to it and the output ports. Yours looks like it is similar to mine. So before buying that kit see if you cant use the numbers (model#?) from the board itself. Maybe, just maybe you can find that board alone for even cheaper? Unfortunately I cant see the numbers on your pics so I can't do the searching for you.

Oh and on the PSU, what I did was I found the main + power in on the board, and then the - and just soldered on my own connector. Yeah mine also needed a new PSU sadly. 5A would be perfect as that way the PSU is never over working and thus will last longer than the actual display itself.

By the way, my panel was the LM270WQ1-SDDB and I turned it into the SLA1 which is the overclocking model. I kept all the original parts just in case I ever need them, and I plan to eventually buy one of these kits with DisplayPort because we all know DVI wont be around much longer, lol.
What does the conversion of the panel to SLA1 involves? Just replacing the TCON?
 

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Damn, I keep needing to reply. Well I figured out you have the same PCB as mine originally had I think, or so it looks like it "HY-2560M_DP_M" Rev 3

I would just try and find that board because it seems to me that it is probably the issue, or maybe even the PSU I just don't know? If it still does it after all this then you have narrowed it down to the T-CON I would say. Again, I just do not know what could cause this symptom. My other monitor (Dell) just went dark one day and it was a simple replacement of capacitors, 29 of them to be exact, lol.

Oh and I just found this, which is the overclocking setup. This requires you to replace the T-CON, but that other kits uses the T-CON you have now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...70WQ1-SLA1-REPLACEMENT-BOARD-KIT/123740185646
 

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What does the conversion of the panel to SLA1 involves? Just replacing the TCON?
No, it requires the proper TCON and proper two cable LVDS cables. The board is also different. There is eDP and LVDS signals. I do not know the difference but I do know that the SLA1 has no hard limit written into the chip, so it lets your GPU just raise the freq to 81 Hz natively, and much farther if you do a little work with the drivers (I can show you that later).

IMO, if you do not care about overclocking, I would just get the full kit converting it to DisplayPort because like you said all the new GPU just wont have DVI, especially in the future. DP should last us a much longer time, like decades maybe, or lets hope so.
 

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No, it requires the proper TCON and proper two cable LVDS cables. The board is also different. There is eDP and LVDS signals. I do not know the difference but I do know that the SLA1 has no hard limit written into the chip, so it lets your GPU just raise the freq to 81 Hz natively, and much farther if you do a little work with the drivers (I can show you that later).
That's kind of what I meant, replacing the TCON with this SLA1 TCON that has 2 cables out to the main PCB. (just like in this kit you linked https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...70WQ1-SLA1-REPLACEMENT-BOARD-KIT/123740185646)

So, with this $50, I'm getting the TCON + PCB + 2 cables to interconnect them + backlight panel. That looks like the entire setup that can fix my issue + give me overclock capabilities at the same time. This kit even has the same connector to the power button so I wouldn't need to replace it. And if I want to upgrade the main PCB in the future to support DP+HDMI I'll just have to get an SLA1 kit (I just don't know if I'll be able to still OC or not since now we're talking about DP or HDMI).
Am I correct in this? Because if I am, this kit looks like a godsend ;), I can even keep my PSU (but now that you mentioned, I'll probably try to test my Overlord PSU in this monitor to make sure it's not the PSU)

About the OC, usually i'd prefer the board with DP, but the OC kit is actually cheaper than the DP kit (and yes, I really care about it, just budget was my concern as I though i'd need to spend $150+ to have it considering the prices I saw in aliexpress, but this kit's total is $50), but when the OC kit is cheaper then yes, I'm likely trying to get it. I also have an Overlord, so I already know how to do it if needed (and I'm really used to the 100hz I can get from it, although I'd be really happy with 96hz from this kit). Luckily for my, I have a 780ti which has an unlocked driver and I can already create custom res if I need.

Finally, just finished testing my Overlord PSU on the Catleap, and the issue persists, it's not the PSU.
 

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This would be the main PCB that has power connected to it. Looks like it's really old (DVI only). hy-2560m_dp_m rev.03
I did some googling and pretty much found outdated links without any stock and this (which doesn't look like will fit): https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...185646?hash=item1ccf7d642e:g:BGYAAOSwZntcuSUn

The kit is sounding like a really nice upgrade now that I think about it, since I won't have to rely in DVI-DL in the future (the adapter to hdmi is probably more expensive than the difference the full kit x board is), and I've been holding on my GPU upgrade just because of that, because most of the newer higher end GPUs do not have DVI anymore :(
That is a dang good price that kit! Buy that and get the LM270WQ1 panel for around $50 for a killer 1440p 96(ish)hz gaming experience. I wished I didn't break two of those LM270WQ1 panels. :(
 

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That is a dang good price that kit! Buy that and get the LM270WQ1 panel for around $50 for a killer 1440p 96(ish)hz gaming experience. I wished I didn't break two of those LM270WQ1 panels. :(
Guess your message just made me go ahead and buy this kit. Looks like the best option for me now (and MUCH cheaper than usual).
 

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That's kind of what I meant, replacing the TCON with this SLA1 TCON that has 2 cables out to the main PCB. (just like in this kit you linked https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...70WQ1-SLA1-REPLACEMENT-BOARD-KIT/123740185646)

So, with this $50, I'm getting the TCON + PCB + 2 cables to interconnect them + backlight panel. That looks like the entire setup that can fix my issue + give me overclock capabilities at the same time. This kit even has the same connector to the power button so I wouldn't need to replace it. And if I want to upgrade the main PCB in the future to support DP+HDMI I'll just have to get an SLA1 kit (I just don't know if I'll be able to still OC or not since now we're talking about DP or HDMI).
Am I correct in this? Because if I am, this kit looks like a godsend ;), I can even keep my PSU (but now that you mentioned, I'll probably try to test my Overlord PSU in this monitor to make sure it's not the PSU)

About the OC, usually i'd prefer the board with DP, but the OC kit is actually cheaper than the DP kit (and yes, I really care about it, just budget was my concern as I though i'd need to spend $150+ to have it considering the prices I saw in aliexpress, but this kit's total is $50), but when the OC kit is cheaper then yes, I'm likely trying to get it. I also have an Overlord, so I already know how to do it if needed (and I'm really used to the 100hz I can get from it, although I'd be really happy with 96hz from this kit). Luckily for my, I have a 780ti which has an unlocked driver and I can already create custom res if I need.

Finally, just finished testing my Overlord PSU on the Catleap, and the issue persists, it's not the PSU.
Yeah, that kit does look like the ideal setup for now until DP is absolutely required. My only concern was the power button cables was not in the images above, but like you said it looks like the same power button cable as the one you already have. Lets hope it is wired the same too lol. The OC is not guaranteed usually, but mine with the same parts does 60Hz by default, and can be set to 81Hz (image below) just by using the windows Advanced Display Settings drop down. It lets me select 81 Hz as the highest Freq. However, if you go to CRU's home page and follow the instructions you will get a fully unlocked Display. I have gotten 110Hz from my previous GPU (5800GTX), but I have not tried going higher with my Radeon R9 290. I have seen some people get in upwards of 120Hz or slightly more. But remember this display tech is limited to the pixels natural fill rates, so I suspect anything higher than 100 might have ghosting or what ever.

I just hope it all works for you and you don't have a hard time installing it. Please keep us informed as I want to buy one of these kits for my display as well just as a backup. I have the original TCON still and the SLA1 TCON, which means I already have the ability, with a new DP kit of course, to get myself DP, but for now I will stick to DVI. I just know someday our next GPU isn't going to have a DVI port, lol.

 

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It'll probably take about two weeks for the kit to arrive (i'm in Colombia btw), but i'll report what happens in here.
Last time I checked the newer GPUs, the Geforce Super 2060 still comes with 1x DVI, but doesn't look like the super 2070 has it (probably with some 3rd party model it can still do). My first long term plan about this is to simply use Apple's active DVI-DL to HDMI adapter. So far it's working just right on my wife's Overlord to connect to an imac (however I never tried to OC it, gotta test soon prob after the kit arrives). It's a bit expensive but it works. The DP kit will be my second option now in the future.
Also, after checking a bit more, there are kits for the SLA1 with vga/dvi/hdmi, that can also be another option if we want to keep the SLA1 TCON in the future and upgrade to HDMI (didn't find DP so far), and still try to keep OC capabilities, I would prob try one of those way in the future instead of reverting to the SDE3 for DP when HDMI would do the same and will stay around pretty much forever.
Now I'll just cross my fingers for the kit to arrive without any damage and upgrade it :).

Cheers
 

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It'll probably take about two weeks for the kit to arrive (i'm in Colombia btw), but i'll report what happens in here.
Last time I checked the newer GPUs, the Geforce Super 2060 still comes with 1x DVI, but doesn't look like the super 2070 has it (probably with some 3rd party model it can still do). My first long term plan about this is to simply use Apple's active DVI-DL to HDMI adapter. So far it's working just right on my wife's Overlord to connect to an imac (however I never tried to OC it, gotta test soon prob after the kit arrives). It's a bit expensive but it works. The DP kit will be my second option now in the future.
Also, after checking a bit more, there are kits for the SLA1 with vga/dvi/hdmi, that can also be another option if we want to keep the SLA1 TCON in the future and upgrade to HDMI (didn't find DP so far), and still try to keep OC capabilities, I would prob try one of those way in the future instead of reverting to the SDE3 for DP when HDMI would do the same and will stay around pretty much forever.
Now I'll just cross my fingers for the kit to arrive without any damage and upgrade it :).

Cheers
Well I wish you all the luck in the world buddy. Keep us informed and here's to hoping you get the kit in good working condition. If you need any help to figure out how to power it up, wiring etc let me know as I have the wiring diagram for that 4-pin connector and I have proper part numbers for the power supply units if needed.

Good luck man
 

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My retired Q270, purchased 23 Jun 2012 from green-sum on eBay and shipped from Korea, needs a new home. The wobbling device was carefully removed by me and it has been VESA mounted for most of its operational life. I still have the original box and a nice long (12', I think) DL-DVI-D cable.
Free for pickup in the Washington DC Metro area, or you can send me a shipping label. PM me if interested and I'll follow up here when picked up or shipped (so there'll be no need to ask if it's available).
 

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After 7 years, I think mine is finally on its way out. If I look closely there are some faint lines going down the panel. (See attached picture, I enhanced the contrast a little to make the lines easier to see)

Also, like once a week, I will turn on the monitor and get multicolored horizontal lines through the screen, they will gradually clear up until it's back to normal. One of these days it probably won't clear up.

Below is a screenshot, I enhanced the contrast a little to show the lines a little easier. This Yamasaki lasted a lot longer than I expected, pretty impressed.
 

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That's kind of what I meant, replacing the TCON with this SLA1 TCON that has 2 cables out to the main PCB. (just like in this kit you linked https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...70WQ1-SLA1-REPLACEMENT-BOARD-KIT/123740185646)

So, with this $50, I'm getting the TCON + PCB + 2 cables to interconnect them + backlight panel. That looks like the entire setup that can fix my issue + give me overclock capabilities at the same time. This kit even has the same connector to the power button so I wouldn't need to replace it. And if I want to upgrade the main PCB in the future to support DP+HDMI I'll just have to get an SLA1 kit (I just don't know if I'll be able to still OC or not since now we're talking about DP or HDMI).
Am I correct in this? Because if I am, this kit looks like a godsend /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif, I can even keep my PSU (but now that you mentioned, I'll probably try to test my Overlord PSU in this monitor to make sure it's not the PSU)

About the OC, usually i'd prefer the board with DP, but the OC kit is actually cheaper than the DP kit (and yes, I really care about it, just budget was my concern as I though i'd need to spend $150+ to have it considering the prices I saw in aliexpress, but this kit's total is $50), but when the OC kit is cheaper then yes, I'm likely trying to get it. I also have an Overlord, so I already know how to do it if needed (and I'm really used to the 100hz I can get from it, although I'd be really happy with 96hz from this kit). Luckily for my, I have a 780ti which has an unlocked driver and I can already create custom res if I need.

Finally, just finished testing my Overlord PSU on the Catleap, and the issue persists, it's not the PSU.
Yeah, that kit does look like the ideal setup for now until DP is absolutely required. My only concern was the power button cables was not in the images above, but like you said it looks like the same power button cable as the one you already have. Lets hope it is wired the same too lol. The OC is not guaranteed usually, but mine with the same parts does 60Hz by default, and can be set to 81Hz (image below) just by using the windows Advanced Display Settings drop down. It lets me select 81 Hz as the highest Freq. However, if you go to CRU's home page and follow the instructions you will get a fully unlocked Display. I have gotten 110Hz from my previous GPU (5800GTX), but I have not tried going higher with my Radeon R9 290. I have seen some people get in upwards of 120Hz or slightly more. But remember this display tech is limited to the pixels natural fill rates, so I suspect anything higher than 100 might have ghosting or what ever.

I just hope it all works for you and you don't have a hard time installing it. Please keep us informed as I want to buy one of these kits for my display as well just as a backup. I have the original TCON still and the SLA1 TCON, which means I already have the ability, with a new DP kit of course, to get myself DP, but for now I will stick to DVI. I just know someday our next GPU isn't going to have a DVI port, lol.

So speaking of needing Display Port.....lol.

I just got a 1080ti that does not have a DVI port (blower style). So one option is to buy an active adapter around $80 or 2nd option to just convert my monitor to avoid future issues.

It's a Shimian QH270 lite that has been running perfectly and I love it and would like to keep it.

The panel is a lm270wq1-sd b3.

The kit I was looking at is

https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.aliexpress.com/item/32885756831.html

My questions:

Will that work for Display Port conversion or is anything else needed?

Is there any option to have the Display port and be able to overclock with the above mentioned kit? Or any other kit?

Sorry I only know the panel model, I'm not sure what existing boards are. The controller is a DVI only and I'm adding the TCon is whatever a B3 comes with.

Thanks in advance for anyones help
 

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Well I wish you all the luck in the world buddy. Keep us informed and here's to hoping you get the kit in good working condition. If you need any help to figure out how to power it up, wiring etc let me know as I have the wiring diagram for that 4-pin connector and I have proper part numbers for the power supply units if needed.

Good luck man
Hey again!
I arrive with good news!
The past week was horrible, some times the monitor wouldn't even work after 2-3h warming up. After I was able to get it running, I had to disable power saving and let it run 24x7 for it to work haha.

Anyway, the parts just arrived. I replaced the TCON and main board. I got really lucky, as the new main board was just the rev 4 (my old card was rev 3), so all the cables other than the cable that goes to the TCON were exactly the same. I didn't have to make any crazy modifications, my original power on/off and brightness/contrast buttons are working perfectly, the PSU connector is also the same.
After replacing everything, the monitor worked perfectly on the first attempt! I've been using it for a couple of hours already and so far so good, no more problems.
I was able to overclock it easily and I'm reaching 110hz (anything over that I get some artifacts on screen, just like my other Overlord).
I only left the metal plate that covers the main board outside the monitor this time. I was too excited to turn it on and it was too hard to fit the new cabling under it without some cutting involved, so I left it out (hopefully that won't come back to bite me in the future).
Guess the monitor will stay in the family until China stops selling these parts :)
 

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So speaking of needing Display Port.....lol.

I just got a 1080ti that does not have a DVI port (blower style). So one option is to buy an active adapter around $80 or 2nd option to just convert my monitor to avoid future issues.

It's a Shimian QH270 lite that has been running perfectly and I love it and would like to keep it.

The panel is a lm270wq1-sd b3.

The kit I was looking at is

https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.aliexpress.com/item/32885756831.html

My questions:

Will that work for Display Port conversion or is anything else needed?

Is there any option to have the Display port and be able to overclock with the above mentioned kit? Or any other kit?

Sorry I only know the panel model, I'm not sure what existing boards are. The controller is a DVI only and I'm adding the TCon is whatever a B3 comes with.

Thanks in advance for anyones help
Hello!
For your first question: that kit will work for the DP conversion. However, keep in mind that the PSU and buttons from your original monitor may not be compatible. The original PSU is 24v, the kit you've linked is 12V, you'll need a new 12V 5A PSU if you buy that kit.
That kit has a board with a new power button included, but it might not fit your monitor's original bezel and you might have to resort to some creativity (like cutting the bezel or having the board floating around outside your monitor).
That kit won't be able to overclock. If you need to overclock, having a SLA1 TCON is mandatory, so you'll need to replace your TCON with an SLA1 one, and get a controller board kit to an SLA1 instead of getting your kit.

From what I researched, there's no Displayport kit for the SLA1, only HDMI. In theory, OC would be possible using the HDMI input, but I honestly haven't tested that as my kit is DVI only (other folks in the forum might have this answer).
I just recently purchased one kit for my dying monitor that converted it from SDD3 like yours to SLA1.

This is the kit for the SLA1 with VGA, DVI and HDMI (the only one I could find that's not DVI-DL only).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-D...502641?hash=item1c9fc3f031:g:megAAOSwi0RXzpcd

Please be careful, as if you want this kit for the OC, you'll need to purchase an SLA1 TCON too, but not a new PSU this time since this kit is for 24V psus (just like the originals).

SLA1 TCON
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52
 

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Hi,

I have 2 Crossover 27 LED, one with the Overlord PCB, can get it to 114 Hz on win10 but not with Linux (still at 60 Hz), anyone running these boards on Linux?. Would the kits listed in the previous posts also work with a crossover, how much can they be overclocked?

Thanks
 

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Hi,

I have 2 Crossover 27 LED, one with the Overlord PCB, can get it to 114 Hz on win10 but not with Linux (still at 60 Hz), anyone running these boards on Linux?. Would the kits listed in the previous posts also work with a crossover, how much can they be overclocked?

Thanks
They should work with the Crossover, but it would be good to know which panel you have so you know exactly what parts you'll need.
I got 120hz with artifacts, and 110hz stable with no artifacts using one of those kits. I think it's my cable that's still the stock one and is not a very high quality cable.
Not running linux so can't comment on that.
 
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