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The answer might already be located somewhere in this thread but it might be difficult to locate in so many pages.
I have the original catleap and an ancient GPU which I ll probably change soon. I noticed that both camps now started to release their GPUs without any DVI outputs. Has anyone managed to make a HDMI/DP - > DVI-D connection work? Possibly by reducing the herz a little? (I don't have one that overclocks so 60Hz max, although to be honest I always see mine listed in windows at 59)

Edit:I mean obviously aside from using an active adaptor.
 

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My tempest died a few weeks ago screen just went black in middle of use. The boards looked good, and i spark tested the power supply (no multi-meter yet). Replaced the original panel (not lg its a "huige") with a used lg panel, still black no power light. Replaced the main board, same thing. New lvds cables are on their way and a new/used sla1 tcon is coming too. I have a sneaking suspicion its the power supply even though it sparked when tested. I'm looking at getting this one: https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-E...ZGZ1W6HE9B8&psc=1&refRID=7F78QZY8PZGZ1W6HE9B8 Im pretty sure the pinout is compatible from the reviews. Thoughts .. on the problem ? on the power brick ? .. If i get this working i'll probably have an extra t-con and main pcb and knock off lg panel for sale :p
 

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Hello guys,

I am currently trying to connect my 27 inch 2560x1440 Yamakasi, which I bought back in 2011 to my Clevo gaming laptop with a gtx1080 inside.

The laptop has USB 3.0, Mini Displayport and HDMI outputs.

From what I've gathered so far I need something like this:

https://www.startech.com/AV/display...-Adapters/mdp-dual-link-dvi-adapter~MDP2DVID2

this is quite pricey and I'm wondering if in 2019 there are cheaper alternatives, or do I need to bite the bullet and get something like the above?

Will perhaps this:
https://www.visiontek.com/displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-d-active-adapter-m-f.html

together with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution-Converter/dp/B00YOVKWQS

Work just as well and save me a few dollars?
 

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Hello guys,

I am currently trying to connect my 27 inch 2560x1440 Yamakasi, which I bought back in 2011 to my Clevo gaming laptop with a gtx1080 inside.

The laptop has USB 3.0, Mini Displayport and HDMI outputs.

From what I've gathered so far I need something like this:

https://www.startech.com/AV/display...-Adapters/mdp-dual-link-dvi-adapter~MDP2DVID2

this is quite pricey and I'm wondering if in 2019 there are cheaper alternatives, or do I need to bite the bullet and get something like the above?

Will perhaps this:
https://www.visiontek.com/displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-d-active-adapter-m-f.html

together with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution-Converter/dp/B00YOVKWQS

Work just as well and save me a few dollars?
Yeah those last options look good. But why does it need to be an active display cable? Does your laptop have a mini dp female out? If so they have cables with male mini DP to dual link dvi, unless these are for DVI devices to DP monitors. Not sure on that. With a 1080 inside your laptop should have no issues driving a 2560x1440 display.
 

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Yeah those last options look good. But why does it need to be an active display cable? Does your laptop have a mini dp female out? If so they have cables with male mini DP to dual link dvi, unless these are for DVI devices to DP monitors. Not sure on that. With a 1080 inside your laptop should have no issues driving a 2560x1440 display.

If it is not active then the signal will be single link
 

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If it is not active then the signal will be single link
Thanks on that confirmation. I thought active adapters were for displays with higher than 2560x1600 resolution, or for non DP++ ports. I forgot about the dual link requirement, doh. If his laptop is DP++ it already has the conversion chips built in, if not he will need an active adapter. I think this is correct info, lol....
 

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Quick report. I just upgraded my GPU to a RTX2070S, and had to use an adapter for that.

I have an SL A1 which would get me 120HZ before (110Hz stable with no artifacts).
Using an Apple DVI > Minidp and a minidp > DP adapter, I was able to get to 75Hz stable.

I tried purchasing one of the advised adapters that would go straight to DP, but they failed me and got returned.
At least it still works with some kind of OC.
 

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Quick report. I just upgraded my GPU to a RTX2070S, and had to use an adapter for that.

I have an SL A1 which would get me 120HZ before (110Hz stable with no artifacts).
Using an Apple DVI > Minidp and a minidp > DP adapter, I was able to get to 75Hz stable.

I tried purchasing one of the advised adapters that would go straight to DP, but they failed me and got returned.
At least it still works with some kind of OC.
Good to know, thanks for the report. :thumb:
 

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So...anyone still got a picture out with any DP/HDMI -> DVI adapter?

I tried with this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32407972546.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.9.1e8bad7de6GNNq
However I just now noticed it says it supports only up to 1080, so that might be the issue why it's not working. Already have a new monitor ordered but it would be nice to keep this as a secondary, even if only 60Hz.
So i have a similar issue as i recently upgraded to a 2080S, Im only using as a second screen so i also dont care about getting more than 60hz.

I have this adaptor working at 1080 (it also offers 1900x1200): https://www.alogic.co/us/alogic-15cm-displayport-to-dvi-adapter-male-to-female-premium-series.html... I was able to set a custom resolution of 2560x1440 however the image isn't as crisp anymore and it seems a bit blurry compared to the sharpness i had on this screen with DVI on my old 1070.

So i found another version from the same company (https://www.alogic.co/alogic-20cm-d...er-male-to-female-with-4k-support-active.html) which offers 4K Ultra HD 3840 X 2160 with DisplayPort Ver 1.2 devices & 2560 X 1440 with DisplayPort 1.1 devices. However when i hook it up all i get is the screen flicking on and off, see here for a short video: https://imgur.com/gallery/5LL0Z1o

The screen is showing up in windows display settings but just keeps flicking on and off like that... anyone have any thoughts on troubleshooting i can do to resolve this? Ive tried Alogic support but havent had a response as yet.
 

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Guys, I got this one with S/N Q270LED2F4LPxxxx
Can this overclock? Or just the 2Bs? This one have all Korean on it doesn't look like anything in this thread.
Also can MacBook Pro do overclocking? Mine have a AMD 5300M should be doable right?
 

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Hello.


First time poster here.
Happy Catleap SE owner (the very basic one, dvi-d only model) since 2012ish. The screen has been working well so far. Lately I started to get the blinking green led when turning it on with no picture detected. Sometimes it would work fine, sometimes it would display a black screen at resolution change. Lately it would not display anything at a higher resolution than the bios, and would stay black at the login screen (with no backlight).


Power brick showed 24.4 volts on both +V pins.



So i decided to open it gently. Unplugged the cables carefully (especially the panel ribbon), took a look at the unique board inside and could not see anything wrong, no bulged cap, no burning mark nothing. I reassembled it, plugged back everything and it is working perfectly again.


Now, is there a recommended DisplayPort to dvi-d adapter out there that works well with it?
Or is it worth buying a new kit with a DP input board for it?


I still enjoy the screen, low input lag, better image quality than most of the low end current gen screens I have seen so I would not mind upgrading it. For the moment, DVI-D is still ok, my rx580 has the port for it so it is not an imperative at the moment.


When I opened it, I looked at the panel numner and it is LM270WQ1 (SD) (E3).



Thanks.


Olivier.
 

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Ended up buying a complete kit from ebay with DP input and tcon . The original input board was no longer working and was giving me the blinking green light of death again. Screen is back to normal since the ips panel is 100% ok.... Still enjoying the screen and now it has updated DP input.
 

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This is the one i got:


https://www.ebay.fr/itm/DP-Board-T-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


You need to check the panel serial number first so that the seller sneds you the correct KIT. I checked with him before buying and what I received indeed works very well. Installation was pretty easy. Unplug everything from the panel including the TCON, replace the tcon with the one from the kit, leave the tcon shield out of the way, then sticky tape the little replacement boards in the middle of the panel so that it does not prevent putting the back of the screen in place. Remove any remaining metal standoff from the case back that were supporting the original input board, to prevent shorts with the new stuff. Hook up the power and a dp cable directly into the new board and route them through the case back through the dvi hole (use pliers to enlarge if a bit too small for the DP plug to go through the dvi hole), then when everything is plugged in, close everything and use a zip tie to secure the cables to the screen stand so that you dont accidentally pull on them. Leave it like that with the power brick and dp cable connected inside and use it as is (once the screen is closed, the cables are now unreachable so make sure your cables are long enough to reach the mains plug and the computer DP port but it works well like this). Plug the other end of the DP cable to the computer and other end of the power brick to main.


You will also need a 19v 5AMP power brick with center positive jack. They are much more common to find than the original 24v one with the strange 4pin plug wiring.




The keypad for the controls are touch buttons, and allow turning on/off and brightness control. The keypad/control board can stay outside of the case and sticky taped to the back of the screen. The kit is 70e and some people may question the price compared to buying a new screen, but i personally think this nice LG ips panel is worth it because it is still much better than any cheapo screen that you can buy for 100ish euros/usd new.


I have been gaming on it, input lag still feels very good, and the screen still supports resolutions up to 1440p with no issue. Lower resolutions are also working fine.
 

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hi
I have problem with a YAMAKASI Precision 2703: when i connect to my pc it works only at 640x480... (no other resolutions available in windows10 for this monitor). So i have used CRU.exe for change the EDID ( i was thinking the edid is the problem). After this operation the monitor is always black ... What can i do? (Restore EDID ? Search for drivers? ) . Thanks in advance
Alessandro.
 

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My Q270LED SE has not been in use for some time now despite working perfectly when I last used it. The stand has been removed for VESA mounting. I have the original box in which it was shipped from Korea, a long (10' IIRC) dual link DVI-D cable and an extension cable. I also have the GeForce GTX 460 with two DL-DVI-D outputs.

These should go together to a new home but I don't want to maintain any For Sale ads for them, so if you have or know of such a home, then please let me know. While I don't mind making a few dollars, I'm only looking to cover my costs.
 
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