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Discussion Starter #1
So I have always used aircooling, and since my 6700K is getting pretty toasty and there is not much else to upgrade on my PC for now I thought I`d try water and I want to keep it silent aswell.
Dont want to do anything crazy, just cool my CPU for now, and when 1080 hits add that to the loop aswell with an EK FC block. Also I am pretty sure Define R5 can handle 2x PE360 rads, so incase I need more rads in the future adding one would be a breeze.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-p360

- Universal CPU water block: EK-Supremacy EVO (incl. LED diode, mounting- & thermal material)
- Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
- Radiator fan: EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm) (3pcs)
- Water pump-reservoir combo: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (incl. pump)
- Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 10/13mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') (2 meters)
- Compression fittings: EK-ACF Fitting 10/13mm (3/8'' - 1/2'') - G1/4 Nickel (6 pcs)
- Coolant concentrate:EK-Ekoolant EVO Clear (100mL; for 1L of coolant)
- Y-cable splitter: EK-Cable Y-Splitter 3-Fan PWM (10cm)
- ATX bridging plug

I had my eye on this kit, seems very reasonably priced, and if I was to buy all the part in in seperately from thei site it would cost 390€ vs the 345 they ask for the kit.
Do you see any obvious "weak" points in there, I dont know much about watercooling but it seems pretty solid to me, what I am unsure of is if it will be enough for 6700K and 1080 when OC-d.
But I quess it will since the new cards are not as hot as cards used to be.
Also how would you go about adding a drain port to this kit?
Any help would be appreciated
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Shooting down fallacies
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It is a really nice kit and you get a good amount for your money.

The only nitpick would be the tubing and fitting size, but that is personal preference. 3/8" x 1/2" collapses too easily and doesn't allow for tighter bends. I much prefer 3/8" x 5/8".
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That was the impression I got with the smaller tubing aswell, would you think its worth paying 45€ extra for correct tubing, I wonder why do they fo this why not use the right tubing? I bet it's to cut cost and get rid of the tubing and fittings nobody would otherwise buy, sad really.
 

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Imo you would be just fine with the L240 kit:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-l240-1

It's cheaper, has better thicker walled ZMT tubing with no plasticizer issues, a smaller combo pump and res which makes mounting easier, and a 240 rad would be plenty to keep the 6700k with really good temps. As always a kit is the best way to go because you can upgrade and expand it very easily, but don't spend more money just because you feel you have to, spend what you need to get the cooling you actually need.

EDIT: And for the drain port you would usually need a T fitting/splitter, 1-2 male to male adapters, maybe 1-2 extra fittings, and the drain. The drain is usually placed at the lowest point in the loop, so you would have to sketch out the loop first and then see the best place for it.
 

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Watercooled Railgun
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The kit looks real good. Personally, all i'd add is a couple quick disconnects, that'd prevent you from fully draining the loop in every upgrade or addition you make.

Tubing isn't much of an issue, unless you go with straw-thin tubing. But price-wise, i remember my first custom loop was roughly $450. Mind you, that was with the same two 240mm rads and Gentle Typhoons, but still, kits are really worth their salt these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Imo you would be just fine with the L240 kit:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-l240-1

It's cheaper, has better thicker walled ZMT tubing with no plasticizer issues, a smaller combo pump and res which makes mounting easier, and a 240 rad would be plenty to keep the 6700k with really good temps. As always a kit is the best way to go because you can upgrade and expand it very easily, but don't spend more money just because you feel you have to, spend what you need to get the cooling you actually need.

EDIT: And for the drain port you would usually need a T fitting/splitter, 1-2 male to male adapters, maybe 1-2 extra fittings, and the drain. The drain is usually placed at the lowest point in the loop, so you would have to sketch out the loop first and then see the best place for it.
As I said I chose the 360 because as soon as the 1080 launches im getting one and a watervlock for it and 240 just wont do, also dont see the point in buying 240 when theres plenty of room for a 360, well not a lot but a few mm for sure !
 

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You can always add a 360 rad when you add the GPU later, but if your still set on a 360 then the L360 kit has the ZMT also. If you want the P360 for the clear tube then you might want to consider getting some 90 and 45 elbows and a few extra fittings to help make all the turns you need without collapsing the tube.

Anyway you go imo EK kits are the best kits, so you really can't go wrong with any of them.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

You can always add a 360 rad when you add the GPU later, but if your still set on a 360 then the L360 kit has the ZMT also. If you want the P360 for the clear tube then you might want to consider getting some 90 and 45 elbows and a few extra fittings to help make all the turns you need without collapsing the tube.

Anyway you go imo EK kits are the best kits, so you really can't go wrong with any of them.
Why would one buy a 240 kit, then add a 360 later when they can simply buy the 360 kit in the first place? That makes no sense.
 

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Watercooled Railgun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outofmyheadyo View Post

As I said I chose the 360 because as soon as the 1080 launches im getting one and a watervlock for it and 240 just wont do, also dont see the point in buying 240 when theres plenty of room for a 360, well not a lot but a few mm for sure !
Given the performance per watt statements Nvidia has been giving off, and as the 1080 only has only one 8-pin PCI-E power with the leaks i've seen, i do not really think it will be a heat generator. Plus, even while OCed, anything 115x won't throw more than 150-160w of heat, therefore a 240mm rad will still be enough.

Though if your case has room for a 360mm rad, then go for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Still havent pulled the trigger, really leaning towards mostly the same bits as in the p360 kit just with zmt tube 16/10 and some golden fittings, adding all sorts of 45 and 90 degree fittings would surely hinder the flow, do you think im fine with the regular nonangled fittings if I use the thicker zmt tube 16/10mm even when trying to run gpu in the loop, since I have no real hands on experience with tubing or what kind of loops it can take, I can look at pictures all day and read about it but hands on experience beats it every time, wich I dont have.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay thats clear then, thanks.
So i was browsing and looking around what people have been fitting inside the R5 and i noticed a few people going for 360mm in the front and 420 mm on top.
Would you think using an EK PE 360 (38mm thickness) and EK CE 420 on top ( 45mm thickness ) would make any difference in my temps compared to double 360 PE ?
I know it might be irrelevant but as it`s the first time buying a loop I wouldnt wanna buy together some crap, that could of easily been improved.
I also know that double 360s or moreso 360 and 420 is totally overkill for single CPU and GPU but its nice to fill up the case
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