[steelseries Sensei] Scroll wheel 'jump'

frag85 · Apr 25, 2014

I've been experiencing a scroll wheel 'jump' every 8 scroll bumps/clicks on my Steelseries Sensei. Not scroll wheel button clicks, but scroll positional clicks, or bumps.

Is this a problem with my mouse or a common issue with this particular mouse or certain scroll wheel designs in general? It has been happening since I got the mouse a few months ago. I have been trying to ignore it but it has recently caused me some problems which were the straw the broke the camel's back.

What happens is on the 8th scroll positional click, the mouse will jump up the distance of 2 (sometimes 3) scroll positions. So if I'm going down, it will appear that I scrolled up one (sometimes 2) click instead of down, and if I am scrolling up it will appear i scrolled up 3 (sometimes 4) clicks instead of 1. I can actually scroll to the top of the page fairly quickly by rocking back and forth on that 'jump' position.
I would have to guess the driver is not calibrated correctly to the mouse since it is exactly every 8 scroll positions. I can make a video if you don't understand what I'm saying.

This is annoying when scrolling up and down on documents and spreadsheets, browsing the internet, checking email, and especially annoying in games where the mouse scroll wheel selects items or weapons or whatever. If I scroll up and down over

Changing Windows' Mouse Properties > Wheel > Vertical scrolling rate doesn't do anything, it just changes how large of a step the mis-scroll is and I don't see any scroll wheel settings in the Steelseries software.

metal571 · Apr 25, 2014

Sounds like a hardware problem to me.

DivineDark · Apr 25, 2014

Hardware issue, Sir. I've had a ton of problems with my Senseis, but that isn't one of them.

Razor 116 · Apr 25, 2014

Hardware issue, had this with one of my Sensei's (Along with the common cable disconnecting issue). You'll have to RMA with entails sending it to Denmark waiting for them to confirm the issue then send you a replacement and it's hopefully not like a replacement I got which didn't have the two rear slippy feet and then proceeded to develop the same issue as the mouse it replaced, all in all a great show from Steelseries QC.

frag85 · Apr 26, 2014

Well, that sounds lovely. I'll have to see if I'm still in the return window for the store I bought it at. I had high hopes for Steelseries after hearing so many good things about them.

I have had such bad luck with mice. I haven't had a mouse that works more than a year or two, or bought a mouse where the first one worked correctly (except the original MX500) in more than 10 years. They all develop some bug like this, or disconnecting. Seems everything is being made so cheaply and piss poor quality control nowadays. So frustrating.

Razor 116 · Apr 26, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by frag85

Well, that sounds lovely. I'll have to see if I'm still in the return window for the store I bought it at. I had high hopes for Steelseries after hearing so many good things about them.

I have had such bad luck with mice. I haven't had a mouse that works more than a year or two, or bought a mouse where the first one worked correctly (except the original MX500) in more than 10 years. They all develop some bug like this, or disconnecting. Seems everything is being made so cheaply and piss poor quality control nowadays. So frustrating.

It's annoying for sure especially since the cable disconnecting issue I have had three times is a known and very common issue with the Sensei just a quick search on Google show many people and videos on the problem yet they still seemingly haven't done anything about it.

Currently trying the Rival from SteelSeries but will likely be giving Zowie a go as the shape looks like a blend of the Sensei with slight ergonomic tweaks for right hand use, the only thing I slowly started to dislike about the Sensei was the height (A little low for me) and maybe the Sensor although this is likely due to using it on a cloth mat.

frag85 · Apr 26, 2014

I think it could be dust that has accumulated in the wheel. I'm trying to remember back a few years but one of the times that I had to repair the disconnecting issue with a logitech mouse I cleaned everything inside. I think that mouse had a once in a while jump/jitter in the scroll wheel. I've had so many logitech mice it's hard to keep track.

Since its going to cost 2x the price of the mouse to ship it insured+tracked through a courier, or about 1/2 the price of the mouse to ship it by standard uninsured/un-tracked post to Denmark, I'll just open it up and clean it out. I can't see anything looking down into the scroll wheel but that doesn't mean there's not crap where the sensor is picking up the movements.

Razor 116 · Apr 26, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by frag85

I think it could be dust that has accumulated in the wheel. I'm trying to remember back a few years but one of the times that I had to repair the disconnecting issue with a logitech mouse I cleaned everything inside. I think that mouse had a once in a while jump/jitter in the scroll wheel. I've had so many logitech mice it's hard to keep track.

Since its going to cost 2x the price of the mouse to ship it insured+tracked through a courier, or about 1/2 the price of the mouse to ship it by standard uninsured/un-tracked post to Denmark, I'll just open it up and clean it out. I can't see anything looking down into the scroll wheel but that doesn't mean there's not crap where the sensor is picking up the movements.

The cost of sending it to them isn't as bad for me (UK) but for people like you in the US it's ridiculous. As soon as you open it though your warranty is void so try taking it to the retailer or e-shop you got it from first. The likelihood of it being dust is almost non-existent, The mouse wheel on the Sensei I'm still waiting to send back exhibits the same issue where scrolling it would jump up while scrolling down then continue scrolling.

frag85 · Apr 26, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Razor 116

The cost of sending it to them isn't as bad for me (UK) but for people like you in the US it's ridiculous. As soon as you open it though your warranty is void so try taking it to the retailer or e-shop you got it from first. The likelihood of it being dust is almost non-existent, The mouse wheel on the Sensei I'm still waiting to send back exhibits the same issue where scrolling it would jump up while scrolling down then continue scrolling.

Retailer's policy is 30 days.... So purchased in December, I'm past that. They don't have any sort of deals worked out with a company in Denmark, so no go. I talked with the store manager on duty and tried to reason with him that it was ridiculous to have a 4-5 month old product start to act up and have to buy a new one (because shipping internationally was so expensive), but he wasn't having any of it. I know its not their fault, but I hoped they'd at least try to take care of a customer especially with how cheap mail order is. IMO if steelseries is going to compete in NA, they should have an RMA service in NA. The way I see this is I basically picked up a mouse with no warranty, now its not functioning correctly so I'm screwed.

Razor 116 · Apr 26, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by frag85

Retailer's policy is 30 days.... So purchased in December, I'm past that. They don't have any sort of deals worked out with a company in Denmark, so no go. I talked with the store manager on duty and tried to reason with him that it was ridiculous to have a 4-5 month old product start to act up and have to buy a new one (because shipping internationally was so expensive), but he wasn't having any of it. I know its not their fault, but I hoped they'd at least try to take care of a customer especially with how cheap mail order is. IMO if steelseries is going to compete in NA, they should have an RMA service in NA. The way I see this is I basically picked up a mouse with no warranty, now its not functioning correctly so I'm screwed.

If I were you I'd contact SteelSeries either via their ticket system or a Rep on OCN, tell them the cost of shipping and see if they can work something out.

I totally agree with you regarding a local RMA centre however I do understand why they don't as it would not be economically viable.

frag85 · Apr 26, 2014

Yeah, I completely understand the economically viable part. I have my own business and have looked into selling a few things more broadly than just word of mouth/locally, and it isn't cheap. International for me would be completely out of the question. I'd have to charge A LOT more to make it work, or get a partner in Europe.

Since RMAs get sent to Denmark, I'm assuming the US office they have listed on their site is just that, an office. An office that probably just deals with PR+contacting vendors in the US. Steelseries seems to be a low volume company so they have that going against a NA office that processes RMAs, but with their market expanding, they really should expand their support.

It couldn't cost that much to have someone, even part time/contracted, to follow some RMA guidelines and replace faulty hardware compared to the customer base they could be missing out on. I don't know about Steelseries' volume of sales, but its probably several tens of thousands of sales to make up for an RMA center+staff in the states.

But thinking about it, the cost of even a part-time tester can't be as bad as the business they won't get when people realize there practically isn't any warranty in the US because shipping is so much to Denmark. Who is going to pay even 1/2 the value of the mouse to get a referb back that has a 90 day guarantee. I do enough shipping to not trust uninsured+untracked packages. You'd be surprised how often things disappear or get broken/damaged en route. For me, I'd be out the $25 or so, and a $50-60 mouse that still mostly worked (except for scrolling) if the package never made it.

Just as an example, take the disconnecting issues (this was also a big issue with several logitech mice, mx510/518 and the g400. The G400 was discontinued after less than a few years and upgraded), if that is a common issue, and your mouse has it, you RMA it, pay the $25 for uninsured, untracked shipping, take the gamble that it even makes it there, only to get a 'refurb' mouse back and a few months later the same common issue occurs. I've dealt with that from Logitech numerous times now. Its a royal PITA. On the other end of things, I don't see how shipping back to the USA can be economically viable for Steelseries. Its cheaper to ship to the USA than out, but they are sending you a product (at their cost), plus the shipping. It would be cheaper for them to send you a gift/promo code to get a new mouse. Just kind of brainstorming here.

Razor 116 · Apr 26, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by frag85

Yeah, I completely understand the economically viable part. I have my own business and have looked into selling a few things more broadly than just word of mouth/locally, and it isn't cheap. International for me would be completely out of the question. I'd have to charge A LOT more to make it work, or get a partner in Europe.

Since RMAs get sent to Denmark, I'm assuming the US office they have listed on their site is just that, an office. An office that probably just deals with PR+contacting vendors in the US. Steelseries seems to be a low volume company so they have that going against a NA office that processes RMAs, but with their market expanding, they really should expand their support.

It couldn't cost that much to have someone, even part time/contracted, to follow some RMA guidelines and replace faulty hardware compared to the customer base they could be missing out on. I don't know about Steelseries' volume of sales, but its probably several tens of thousands of sales to make up for an RMA center+staff in the states.

But thinking about it, the cost of even a part-time tester can't be as bad as the business they won't get when people realize there practically isn't any warranty in the US because shipping is so much to Denmark. Who is going to pay even 1/2 the value of the mouse to get a referb back that has a 90 day guarantee. I do enough shipping to not trust uninsured+untracked packages. You'd be surprised how often things disappear or get broken/damaged en route. For me, I'd be out the $25 or so, and a $50-60 mouse that still mostly worked (except for scrolling) if the package never made it.

Just as an example, take the disconnecting issues (this was also a big issue with several logitech mice, mx510/518 and the g400. The G400 was discontinued after less than a few years and upgraded), if that is a common issue, and your mouse has it, you RMA it, pay the $25 for uninsured, untracked shipping, take the gamble that it even makes it there, only to get a 'refurb' mouse back and a few months later the same common issue occurs. I've dealt with that from Logitech numerous times now. Its a royal PITA. On the other end of things, I don't see how shipping back to the USA can be economically viable for Steelseries. Its cheaper to ship to the USA than out, but they are sending you a product (at their cost), plus the shipping. It would be cheaper for them to send you a gift/promo code to get a new mouse. Just kind of brainstorming here.

While that sounds like an idea it could be abused very easily as the fault can easily be faked and only an in person inspection would truly prove that a fault exists. The case you stated is exactly what happened to me though, I bought the Sensei it developed the disconnecting issue and I got a replacement that not only didn't have the two rear slippy feet but went on to develop the same fault.

frag85 · Apr 29, 2014

The RMA address I got is in the states, its cross country, but at least its in the states. That is good to see.

Microx256 · Jun 22, 2014

Sorry for posting on an 'old' thread, but I noticed this same happening on my Sensei [RAW]. Every 8 "ticks", the mouse ticks backwards just as described in the OP. Being a tinkerer by nature I decided to try to investigate and fix this problem by myself, and it turned out to be easier than expected. So for anyone else encountering this same problem and wanting to fix it without needing to send the mouse anywhere:

The problem is dust/hair getting into the wheel rotation sensor (I had a decent amount of dust and cat hair in there). To clean it off, open up the mouse (the screws are on the bottom, under the black pads). Carefully pull off the black pads by pushing a sharp knife under them nad twisting the knife really carefully, and be really careful not to twist the pads too hard, since they deform really easily. After getting the top off, disconnect the cable for the "top part" of the mouse to get better access to the wheel area. Unscrew 2 more screws in the inside, holding the PCB with the wheel in place. Lift up the PCB, this lets you take out the wheel easily. Clean up the wheel, but be careful not to physically damage the left axle of the wheel, since the hexagon shape in it rotates the sensor and you don't want it to be loose or otherwise you get a slightly loose wheel. Rotate the sensor with the wheel a little to see if there are any hair or dust or other stuff in the gear of the sensor. Clean up all other dust and stuff that shouldn't be inside the mouse and assemble the mouse in the reverse order of disassembling.

After this my mouse felt like it was brand new, the wheel was smooth, accurate and quiet (mine used to tick loudly when rotating the wheel).

frag85 · Jun 22, 2014

I never sent my mouse in, I managed to clean it out without disassembling it, but have to do this every couple weeks.

I figure its just an odd design that is allowing a lot of dust in the way of the sensor. I probably only ever had a mouse scroll jump a couple times after like 10+ years of using a half dozen MX700/500/510/518/g400 mice.

fullderp · Oct 9, 2014

Just want to bump this thread, same problem here, it auto scrolls and jumps around all the time, honestly it drives me completely batty, mine's about 12 to 18 months old :/

galaxynet · Nov 17, 2014

I had the same problem with a wheel. Like Microx256 described you can clean dust and hair but that might not help everyone. I think contacts in that rotating switch where the wheeel is connected, get oxidated so you can use alcohol to clean them. Use cotton swabs to apply alcohol inside and rotate a wheel up and down for a couple of minutes so alcohol spreads and clean contacts, after assemble mouse and let it dry for a while, wheel might not work well if you connect mouse to pc right away but after it dries it works like a brand new. If you have problem with mouse buttons you can alse use alcohol to clean them the same way.

nleksan · Nov 17, 2014

I have a similar issue, but with my RAT3... It's a great, lightweight, and surprisingly extremely comfortable mouse for me and my "grip type" and "sens level"... But I have been annoyed to no end with the mouse randomly, and frequently to extremely frequently, freezing... It doesn't cause the Windows Hardware Disconnected sound (the "DA-duh", lol), and the mouse still receives power as the sensor is visibly on, but it is completely unresponsive to ANY AND ALL input whether clicking, scrolling, or repeatedly Hulk Smash-ing it on my desk (kidding... <_< >_>).
The ONLY thing that fixes it is physically unplugging the mouse USB cable, and reconnecting it. I have spent many months and have attempted literally every single possible fix, coming at the issue from every angle I can think of (ie mouse hardware issue, RIVE hardware issue, Windows issue, Drivers issue, USB cable issue, I have done the full "Device Manager Cleaning" thing at least a half dozen times and about half the time it reduces the frequency of the issue but the other half either no effect or temporarily worse, the mouse isn't overdrawing power as tested with a high end calibrated Fluke DMM, the mouse and sensor are kept very clean, no IRQ conflicts, and so on and so forth...).
At best the issue disappears for a few days and then comes back, slowly increasing in frequency.

The thing is, I honestly do not recall the mouse EVER freezing at ANY TIME EXCEPT when actively using the scroll wheel... It's obviously an extremely common occurrence while browsing the Web, or organizing file directories, but it is significantly LESS frequent when in game. I use the mouse wheel to switch weapons for example, and I don't recall the last time it froze in active gameplay.
HOWEVER, if the game has a menu system, say an RPG like Witcher 2, it'll freeze at the usual rate it does on the desktop...

Does anyone have any ideas, or has anyone experienced this before and if so, and you fixed it, what did you do?
Thanks!

galaxynet · Nov 18, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by nleksan

I have a similar issue, but with my RAT3... It's a great, lightweight, and surprisingly extremely comfortable mouse for me and my "grip type" and "sens level"... But I have been annoyed to no end with the mouse randomly, and frequently to extremely frequently, freezing... It doesn't cause the Windows Hardware Disconnected sound (the "DA-duh", lol), and the mouse still receives power as the sensor is visibly on, but it is completely unresponsive to ANY AND ALL input whether clicking, scrolling, or repeatedly Hulk Smash-ing it on my desk (kidding... <_< >_>).
The ONLY thing that fixes it is physically unplugging the mouse USB cable, and reconnecting it. I have spent many months and have attempted literally every single possible fix, coming at the issue from every angle I can think of (ie mouse hardware issue, RIVE hardware issue, Windows issue, Drivers issue, USB cable issue, I have done the full "Device Manager Cleaning" thing at least a half dozen times and about half the time it reduces the frequency of the issue but the other half either no effect or temporarily worse, the mouse isn't overdrawing power as tested with a high end calibrated Fluke DMM, the mouse and sensor are kept very clean, no IRQ conflicts, and so on and so forth...).
At best the issue disappears for a few days and then comes back, slowly increasing in frequency.

The thing is, I honestly do not recall the mouse EVER freezing at ANY TIME EXCEPT when actively using the scroll wheel... It's obviously an extremely common occurrence while browsing the Web, or organizing file directories, but it is significantly LESS frequent when in game. I use the mouse wheel to switch weapons for example, and I don't recall the last time it froze in active gameplay.
HOWEVER, if the game has a menu system, say an RPG like Witcher 2, it'll freeze at the usual rate it does on the desktop...

Does anyone have any ideas, or has anyone experienced this before and if so, and you fixed it, what did you do?
Thanks!

Doesn't sound like dust issue, more like software or hardware problem, have you tried mouse on another computer to isolate problem in mouse or computer? Have you checked mouse cable? wiggle it where cable enters mouse and see does it freeze.
Also if you have usb 3 ports try to connect mouse there and see if it works ok there.

xav22001 · Dec 18, 2014

I FIXED IT!!

Steelseries Sensei RAW

Had the same issue, every 8 wheel clicks, the mouse jumped up. I lost my receipt so didn't even bother contacting Steelseries.

Sorry for the lack of pictures in the early stages, I only realized that I could actually fix it once I realized what the problem was.

1 - remove the plastic gliding pads at the bottom, screws are underneath (I used my nail to start, the glue is sticky enough to apply back on later during reassembly, though a hairdryer could help)
2 - disconnect the cable linking the upper PCB (grabbed from both sides and rocked gently sideways while applying upward force)
3 - remove the wheel led, the led's pcb is just resting on 2 little pins, you just have to delicately lift, and once the pins are cleared pull outwards
4 - Remove the 2 screws holding the main PCB (not crucial, but I found it easier to handle the next steps)
5 - unplug the cable that comes from under the PCB
6 - lift the PCB out of its pins
7 - remove the wheel, it just falls out towards the right
8 - use an exacto knife then tiny flathead screwdriver to lift the 4 tabs holding the "small wheel" assembly - lift all 4 tabs enough for the black piece to be able to bend away from the metal side.

9 - once you have spread the black side back enough, push the bent metal clicking piece towards the metal frame, and the plastic mini wheel in the middle so that you can extract that mini wheel.
Once out the wheel looks like this:

At this stage, you can see inside the mini wheel's assembly that it has 8 small contact pieces and a longer one, and that the wheel has 3 contact pins making contact with those. You can also see that there is some nasty oil that has hardened. My guess is that this problem occurs if the pins lose contact with one of the small strips at some point, perhaps due to the pins not pushing hard enough against them, or having poor contact because of the apparent excess of oil.

10 - use a small flathead screwdriver with a clean thin rag on top to clean the oil off the contact portions, and VERY DELICATELY bend the 3 arms on the wheel up a little, to make more positive contact. I just slid my flat head screwdriver under from the tip and rolled the screwdriver sideways to lift the pins in a slow controlled manner. When I was done the pins rose just enough so as to be visible when looking at the wheel from the side.

11 - reassemble everything, done

Mine works like a charm now, I hope this helps someone!!

Cheers,
Xav

[steelseries Sensei] Scroll wheel 'jump'

frag85

metal571

DivineDark

Razor 116

frag85

Razor 116

frag85

Razor 116

frag85

Razor 116

frag85

Razor 116

frag85

Microx256

frag85

fullderp

galaxynet

nleksan

galaxynet

xav22001

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