You can try some stuff called Cillit Bang (orange bottle). It's a highly aggressive dirt solvent which solves a lot of stuff if it has enough contact-time.Originally Posted by iCrap
I have a HWLabs black ice GTX360 which seems to have some build up or blockage inside of it... the flow rate is absolute crap. my other black ice is fine.
Any ideas on how to clean it? vinnegar and boiling water hasn't helped.
Ill see if i can find some... does home depot have it?Originally Posted by subz3ro
You can try some stuff called Cillit Bang (orange bottle). It's a highly aggressive dirt solvent which solves a lot of stuff if it has enough contact-time.
Mix the solution with distilled water and do the normal cleaning process of shaking, rinsing, repeating. When you fill the radiator, let it sit for a few minutes, not too long because this stuff is really aggressive so be careful. Thoroughly flush out the radiator with COLD water (can be tap water). Just stick it under the faucet so you can get some pressurized water to rinse it with. Do this a few times at least. After you've finished using the solution rinse a few times with just distilled water. Then, do another cleaning with boiling water and vinegar to get anything left behind.
Hopefully that will fix your problem, if not then it's most likely a defective unit.
Well my other 360 one has been in my loop for over a year no issues along with my black ice 120mm rad. This one my friend bought for his PC, and after we tried running boiling water / vinegar through it multiple times he just gave up with it. He only got it about a month ago, i think from another OCN user. He just left it with me and i'm still trying to see if i can clear the crap from it.Originally Posted by d3t0n8
Hi there.
Sorry to hear about your rad, how long have you had and used your GTX360?
I checked all visible water tubes, they look OK , I will order that cleaner from PPCs thenOriginally Posted by subz3ro
I thought you were in the UK for some dumb reason. That stuff is not sold in the U.S. You pretty much need a tough limescale remover. Here is one specific for radiators, http://www.performance-pcs.com/sysclean-hpd-high-power-lime-scale-remover-50ml.html
Also, check it for physical damage. One the water tubes could be damaged.
clr?Originally Posted by tsm106
Vinegar or clr or other chem to break down the particle then connect to lawn faucet and blow it out. I use an aquarium tank cleaner hose thingy but you can make your own from any hw store plumbing section.
CLR is one of those chem cleaners, it eats thru hard deposits like lime/calcium and stuff. I would get/make an adapter for connecting a barb to your faucet. Home water pressure is typically around 80psi which is more than enough to blow whatever is in there out. Run it thru the faucet preferably outside, and thru both ports. You can usually work things loose that way.Originally Posted by iCrap
Quote:
clr?Originally Posted by tsm106
Vinegar or clr or other chem to break down the particle then connect to lawn faucet and blow it out. I use an aquarium tank cleaner hose thingy but you can make your own from any hw store plumbing section.
vinegar seems to do nothing, i've used it over and over.
Yeah it was used. the guy claims it was working fine.Originally Posted by d3t0n8
iCrap, was the radiator used when you purchased it?
Ok, so i'll get a thing of automotive flush and run it through the rad a few times.Originally Posted by Mayhem
You NEVER turn on a tap on full "ever" this will damage your rad, normally 1/4 turn or max 1/2 turn.
Doubt it will be dye/additives its a very high chance its flux that has come loose. Also do not use cillit bang ever after speaking with Reckitt Benckiser, who make it they highly advise you not to use it on copper radiators. Some real bad advice going on here and miss information.
If it is new (even if second hand) and has been there from day one it will be flux that has come loose from manufacturing (its impossible for manufacturers to tell if there is lose flux in the back end of the tank once its been sealed and normally once the rad has been knocked a few times it will come loose then block some holes) which is a common problem with rads and you're not the only one to come across this.![thumb.gif]( "thumb.gif")
Use Rad flush as suggested by d3t0n8 or Phosphoric Acid (its used in the industry to bath rads and clean them up it also used in the HVAC industry to clean pipe work and rads just make sure you use protective gear) to break down the flux and possible residue from tubing, Do not forget to Flush once finished with some Bicarb to neutralize the acid afterwards.
It may take some time to break down the flux but pachence will reward you.
Because typical typical radiators are rated for 1.2bars nominal operation. And even if the 2nd generation Black Ice radiators are rated up to 1.7 bars with a maximum of 2-3 bars pulse, higher pressure from a tap, may have the tubes inflating and the the core collapsing. Depending on our location your tap may exert far more pressure than you want.Originally Posted by iCrap
Yeah it was used. the guy claims it was working fine.
Ok, so i'll get a thing of automotive flush and run it through the rad a few times.
Why does having the tap on full damage the rad?
Quote:Originally Posted by BadDad62
The rads I've had done so far have been leaking joints and they needed repainting after. They cost me a flat rate of $20 Aud![thumb.gif]( "thumb.gif")
otherwise they were going in the scrap![mad.gif]( "mad.gif")
Never just the flux. Its the flux and a few other things used in production that interact. Even waterblocks that are improperly treated, would have coolant/lubricant residue from machining .Originally Posted by Mayhem
d3t0n8 No matter how vigilant you guys are (you literally are the de facto standard atm) you can never stop all flux and every now and then some will come loose when the rads are being exported all over the world or through use (no one can give a % figure because its so random and rare). It happens and is part of what we do.
Now over time you can also get Tubing plasticizer stuck in there how ever that that is a sticky residue and again is hard to remove and can only be done with hot water and some chemicals. Dyes are not and will never be part of the issue and have never been part of the issue as they do what they are supposed to and that is dye things. The only way you'll get dye out of infusion would be to boil the water away and even then you would be left with a miniscule amount and probably have more flux and residue chemicals left over from the coolant.
![thumb.gif]( "thumb.gif")
As long as it still makes economic sense and the person doing the repair work knows how to handle a torch. PC rads are small that when you heat one section you can cause reflow in another. Having cross tank contamination will heat up your loop.Originally Posted by BadDad62
The rads I've had done so far have been leaking joints and they needed repainting after. They cost me a flat rate of $20 Aud![thumb.gif]( "thumb.gif")
otherwise they were going in the scrap![mad.gif]( "mad.gif")
