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Bill Owen

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Note: I've notified ENTERPRISE via PM to move this project log into SPONSORED Worklogs as per instructions



Finally, I get to build something for myself
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The opportunity presented itself after Cooler Master sent me their new Mastercase 5 ($109.99) to evaluate and brainstorm retail accessories / bolt-on custom parts as part of their "Make it Yours" campaign. The Mastercase Pro is the same chassis as mastercase 5, but includes window panel and top cover for $139.99. If I kept waiting for personal time to build a PC for myself, it would have never happened due to lack of free time. I have to admit, I didn't like the Mastercase at first. I captured my mod zoo staff/friends
unbox Mastercase 5 / Pro in my VLOG. I feel Cooler Master missed a lot of details that could have made the case even better. Especially since CM marketed it as "modular" and designed for DIY liquid cooling. It falls 40% from it's marketing pitch, but the overall build quality and finish is outstanding and eventually won me over after dismantling and re-assembling the case. Here is my final thoughts about the Mastercase, keeping in mind that I look at cases from perspective as PC Customizer and Case Modder.

Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro thoughts

RAVES:

Overall Build Quality, Fit & finish.

Top panel / cover design options are nice.

Modular HD/SSD tray design and mounting options are best to date.

240/360/280 radiator option for front is nice.

My suggestions REVISIONS:

Top radiator mounting location should be offset, to clear DDR slots on some motherboards*

100% Riveted chassis?! I understand using rivets over screws to save time in manufacturing, but at minimum, the mid section floor should be removable for better access.*

Lack of Water pump and reservoir mounting. CM's competitors started embracing DIY cooling market over year ago, by including mounting options for reservoirs and water pumps.

Mastercase 5/ Pro window panel is very flimsy. The "smoked" poly window is bluish/purple and has very poor clarity for viewing inside the case.





Inspiration for the custom painted exterior will be the 1970 Porsche 917 from Steve McQueen's "Le Mans" movie. His 917 from the movie was chassis #022 and purchased in 1970 from Porsche by Steve McQueen's movie production company, Solar Productions. It was also the company that would bring the movie "Le Mans" to the big screen. This is the car that McQueen's character, Michael Delaney, starts the race in, and "crashes" late in the race, "writing the car off." The car that was crashed was really a Lola T-70, painted and rebodied, to look like a 917. Many innovations in cinematography, were first tried in this movie. They even went so far, as to weld brackets to the front frame work of the 917, so they could mount a camera to shoot Steve, and the other drivers, in the cockpit.



I'll replacing the Mastercase 5 steel side panel with this clear side panel window, http://mnpctech.com/cooler-master-mastercase/



I'll replacing the Mastercase top grill panel with this clear "moon roof" style top window, http://mnpctech.com/cooler-master-mastercase/mastercase-top-window-panel-clear.html]http://mnpctech.com/cooler-master-mastercase/mastercase-top-window-panel-clear.html



Cooler Master Mastercase 5 Chassis assembled with final coat of Gulf Racing Blue paint from 1970 Porsche 917 race car



Porsche 917 inspired graphics are finished by Brad Galvin on the Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro. Next stage is clear coating everything.



EK Radiator fins were masked off.


Parts laid out with final clear coat. Time to pop rivet!







 
Subbed. Can't wait to see the finished results.
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On the subject of rivets...

...any way we will see anodized rivets in standard colors like Blue, Red, Green and Gold? I'm looking for Red but the ones I've searched for in Google are all painted or enameled.
thinking.gif


~Ceadder
smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
subbed simply because of the vintage gulf livery colors. Can't wait to see how this turns out.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Thanks everybody for tuning in and commenting!

@Ceadderman, they're used to be a company, (DragonModz) that offered anodized pop rivets, but stopped because there wasn't enough sales to justify continued production, unfortunately.

For anyone interested in painting their PC chassis, I made this video over weekend for painting any steel or aluminum PC chassis with Plastikote Engine Enamel Paint

 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Thank you for subbing!

For the EK 360 XTX Radiator I'll be using Nidec-Servo's Scythe Gentle Typhoon (Model# D122C). This fan has been regarded as the best static pressure optimized fan by DIY PC community since it's release in 2008. The original D122C is no longer made, but there is limited stock available at some online retailers. Last year the D122C Scythe GT fan was resurrected and manufactured as "Darkside Black Edition" by Dazmode. It's the same specs as the original, but now has Black fan blades. Many PC Modders including myself have painted these fans to fit the color schemes of our custom PC builds. I've been asked several times over the years how to remove the metal c-clip without losing or breaking it?*This is my DIY guide to removing and installing external retaining ring or c-clip. Like many others, I've also lost these tiny c-clips while learning the best technique for handling this task.

Nidec-Servo's Scythe Gentle Typhoon Factory Spec PDF link, http://www.nidec-servo.com/en/digital/pdf/D1225C.pdf*
Speed: *2150RPM
Air performance : 68.8CFM
Nose: 34db (25cm from the fan, free air)
Power: 12VDC, 0.123A (0.63A peak max)
Operational voltage range: 5-12V (~900rpm-2150rpm)
Bearing: Ball
Expected life: 100000h/35c or 55000h/60c
Appearance: Full black
Dimensions: *119 x 119 x 25 mm / 4.68 x 4.68 x 0.98 in

WARNING:

Perform this task with Safety Glasses, the tiny Black metal retaining ring (c-clip) can and likely will pop off, so perform this task in a clean workspace, so you can find it. I suggest doing the work on a large white bed sheet and holding a large magnet near the fan hub as you remove and re-install the c-clip, to increase you're chances of not losing the c-clip. I haven't found a source for ordering replacement c-clips yet, but I'm still searching.

apart_1_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Here is my suggested Tools & Supplies

Safety Glasses (not pictured)
Heat Gun for removing the fan label. Hair Dryer on HIGH setting will work as well.
10" Wire Cable Tie
Large magnet (not pictured)
External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers, http://www.saeproducts.com/retaining-ring-tool.html
Tweezers
Needle Nose Pliers
Super Glue for re-applying the fan sticker (not pictured)
KROIL for lubricating the fan axle after re-assembly of the fan.

apart_2_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


apart_3_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers, http://www.saeproducts.com/retaining-ring-tool.html

apart_4_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


The fan blade looks as if it would snap-on and off, but not the case.

apart_5_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


We need to remove the back label to access the external metal c-clip on the fan shaft.

apart_6_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Swipe heat gun or hair dryer back and forth over the label.

apart_7_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Use the Tweezer to peel off the fan label.

apart_8_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Stick the fan label on a clean metal surface while you perform your work.

apart_9_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


You will tie down the fan hub with this Twisty tie. The fan shaft has a retention spring inside. You need to compress this spring, so you can remove the metal c-clip. If you don't, it's almost a guarantee that the c-clip will fly off the shaft faster than a bullet.

apart_9a_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Using Twisty tie to compress the fan hub spring, by tying down the hub to the fan frame.

apart_9b_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


apart_9c_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Close ups of the Black metal c-clip inside the Scythe Gentle Typhoon.

apart_9d_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


apart_9e_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Insert the two prongs of the Retaining Ring Plier inside the jaw of the c-clip.

apart_9f_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


If you have a large Magnet, Position it near the fan hub, just in case the c-clip pops off.

apart_9g_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


apart_9h_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Holding the black metal c-clip in the Retaining Ring Plier.

apart_9i_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


You will widen the jaw of the c-clip and need to bend it back to it's original opening, so it maintains it's grip.

apart_9j_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Hold the c-clip in the Tweezer while using a Needle Nose Plier to compress jaw of the c-clip.

apart_9k_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Doing this will allow you to re-use the metal c-clip.

scythe_fan_c_clip_gentle_typhoon_darkside_black_edition_paint_clip.jpg


If you lose the c-clip, mnpctech offers stronger reiniforced c-clips here, http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/ball-bearing-pc-cooling-fan-external-retaining-ring-or-c-clip-pliers-clone.html

apart_9l_disassemble_pc_cooling_fan_clip_ring_tool_mnpctech_gentle_typhoon_darkside.jpg


Here is the Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm Cooling fan dismantled. Note that when I re-assemble the fans I will apply one small drop of Kroil to the fan axle.

Next step is painting the fan frames GULF Blue.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Awesome to hear and Thank you for the posts guys!

I decided fan blade hubs their factory grey and paint the frames GULF Blue, which works together and helps break up all of the orange.

gentle_1_typhoon_GT_scythe_fan_paint_guide_mnpctech.jpg


Primer coat not pictured

gentle_2_typhoon_GT_scythe_fan_paint_guide_mnpctech.jpg


gentle_3_typhoon_GT_scythe_fan_paint_guide_mnpctech.jpg


Clear coat applied

gentle_4_typhoon_GT_scythe_fan_paint_guide_mnpctech.jpg


Re-assembling the painted Typhoon GTs

gentle_5_typhoon_GT_scythe_fan_paint_guide_mnpctech.jpg


gentle_6_typhoon_GT_scythe_fan_paint_guide_mnpctech.jpg


I use two micro flat head screw drivers to snap the c-clip over the fan motor axle / shaft

gentle_7_typhoon_GT_scythe_fan_paint_guide_mnpctech.jpg
 
Absolutely stunning.
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On rivets. I will likely go with your copper rivets so at least they'll match the copper blocks in my case. I just know there are guys out there that want anodized rivets and if I could get them in Red anodizing, I would be much happier. Yeah we can get enameled/powder coated/painted rivets, but hose tend to crack when popping them into form. So copper for me as soon as I have the funds available.
biggrin.gif


~Ceadder
smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Absolutely stunning.
thumb.gif


On rivets. I will likely go with your copper rivets so at least they'll match the copper blocks in my case. I just know there are guys out there that want anodized rivets and if I could get them in Red anodizing, I would be much happier. Yeah we can get enameled/powder coated/painted rivets, but hose tend to crack when popping them into form. So copper for me as soon as I have the funds available.
biggrin.gif


~Ceadder
smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Touch em up with a Sharpie black paint pen after
wink.gif
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duality92 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceadderman View Post

Absolutely stunning.
thumb.gif


On rivets. I will likely go with your copper rivets so at least they'll match the copper blocks in my case. I just know there are guys out there that want anodized rivets and if I could get them in Red anodizing, I would be much happier. Yeah we can get enameled/powder coated/painted rivets, but hose tend to crack when popping them into form. So copper for me as soon as I have the funds available.
biggrin.gif


~Ceadder
smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Touch em up with a Sharpie black paint pen after
wink.gif
Ummmm, Red?
thinking.gif


Yeah, no. I want to show my mod and such cheap fixes tend to stand out.
wink.gif


~Ceadder
smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Yea, good idea, and I love the copper rivets
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gulf_porsche_7_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


The front I/O panel on the Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro is a bit bland for this theme. I decided to modify it with something that looks more "race car" appropriate. I'll start with steel face plate and chose some switches and controls from Mnpctech that include a red "Fighter Pilot" with momentary toggle for Main Power. The reset will be blue anodized vandal resistant push. I also found a VDO brand 12 volt gauge from the center console of a Volkswagen Rabbit GTI. I'd love to find some mounting bezels for 5mm LEDs for Power & HD activity.

gulf_porsche_8_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


The switches will be mounted with this billet vandal switch mounting plate.

spst_toggle_pc_computer_install_guide_power_reset_red_fighter_pilot_mnpctech1.jpg


blue_anodized_bulgin_lamptron_mod_toy_vandal_pc_computer_dell_hp_power_reset_button1.jpg


SPST (Push for Momentary, IP-67 rated, CMP #MP19S-F10, Flush Flat Button, Metal Body, SPST-NO, Push button switch. Mounts in a 3/4" hole. Contacts Rated 5A @ 110VAC, 5A @ 220VAC. Compression screw Terminals. VDE/CE listed, RoHS Compliant.

lamptron.delrin.bulgin.silvervandalswitch2.jpg


Mounting plate has 22mm hole and 16mm hole. It fits Bulgin, Delrin, Lamptron, and ModMyToy Vandal Resistant Switches. Machined by Mnpctech in 6061 billet aluminum. Length = 3.5" x Width = 1.5" x Thickness = 3/16" Bulgin Mounting Plate Includes: 4, 6/32 x 3/4"screws and nuts.

gulf_porsche_9b_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


gulf_porsche_9c_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


gulf_porsche_9d_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


gulf_porsche_9e_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


gulf_porsche_9f_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


gulf_porsche_9g_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


gulf_porsche_9h_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


gulf_porsche_9i_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


gulf_porsche_vdo_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


LED_5mm_holder_black_darkside_superbright.jpg


gulf_porsche_vdo2_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


gulf_porsche_vdo3_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


gulf_porsche_vdo4_cooler_master_mastercase_gaming_pc_case_mod_mnpctech.jpg


The overlapping upper portion of the black base for the RED Toggle Switch will be shortened later.
 
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