Heres some basic instructions for a easy to do and easy to remove shunt mod method.
Tools Needed:
Small phillips screwdriver.
Tweesers
Materials:
Conductive paint. (Stuff iv used is water based and very easy to remove with warm water and cotton swab), But a silver type one would work even better.
Liqud electrical tape. (Again very easy to remove and can basically peel it off with your finger nail)
Sunt resistors of your choice. (Tool to work out what ones you want Here)
New Thermal paste.
New Thermal pads (incase you rip some)
Step 1:
Dissasemble the card. Wont post instructions for that since each card is a little bit different.
Step 2:
Identify the shunt resistors. They will be maked 005 or R005 which is 5mOhm.
![2461817]( "2461817")
Step 3:
Clean up shunts contact area with isopropyl alcohol.
The card will have conformal coating on it.
Step 4:
Apply some conductive paint to the contact area of the shunts on the pcb and the ones your going to add.
![2461818]( "2461818")
Step 5:
Carefully stack the shunts of your choice on top. Press down so it presses out any exess between the contact area like thermal paste, allow 15mins for the conductive paint to dry. As you can see there was a little bit too much of a blob in my image above so I had to clean up the over flow with a cotton swab.
The least ammount you can use the best since its there to fill in micro gaps not to be a big blob to sit on top of.
![2461820]( "2461820")
Step 6:
While that is drying clean up the rest of the board and heat sink.
Step 7:
Apply a small ammount of liquid electrical tape to the stacked shunts to help hold them in place.
Might not be needed since the conductive paint Iv used drys to quite a strong bond. But personally I wont want anything falling off.
![2461821]( "2461821")
Step 8:
Put new thermal pads on the mosfets/choakes that fell apart when removing the stock cooler (seems more like a thick paste they use)
Step 9:
Repaste the die and reassemble the cooler.
Make sure everything has good contact by checking with a light on the other side of the PCB and see if it shines though any gaps.
Step 10:
Confirm its worked with a stress test.
Or even just check with GPUZ at idle.
Add together the wattage from the GPU Chip, MVDDC and SRC. There combined wattage should be greater then what board power is reporting.
In my cards case, at idle board power is reporting 32W but if I add those things together I get 43W which is about the percentage difference Id expect.
You can do the same at load but its harder since the values are flicking around.
-------------------------------- New INFO (2 Plug Cards) --------------------------------------------------
Since they are easy to remove and try other values iv been testing a whole heap of combonations while measuring power with inductive clamp and have found doing just the connectors doesnt open up the card completely.
No matter what shunt you use on the 2 Connector ones youll only get 40W more max from them (20W each connector even when your expecting to get 50W more each connector.)
This is because the next thing the GPU hits is the GPU Chip power limiter.
Doing the GPU Chip shunt will then give you a further 30W then the next limit your on is the PCI-E slot shunt since they force a more strict power split between slot and connectors then they did on past gens. Iv confirmed this by using a 20 mOhm shunt on the slot shunt and that increased the connectors draw also.
After shutting 1 at a time then checking what it effects iv come up with this map of the shunts.
![2462012]( "2462012")
![2462013]( "2462013")
So the ideal config for a 2 plug card is going to be to use 15 mOhm shunts on top of each shunt and the 390W bios since its power split is more towards the plugs.
This will give you
100W from the slot
210W from each connector (17.5 Amps so under the 20amp fuses)
for a total of 510W card draw.
If your motherboard is of lesser quality and your worried about 100W draw from it you can use a 20 mOhm on the slot shunt.
Which will give you 94W from the slot and a max power limit of 498W since it will be hitting the slot power limiter.
Tools Needed:
Small phillips screwdriver.
Tweesers
Materials:
Conductive paint. (Stuff iv used is water based and very easy to remove with warm water and cotton swab), But a silver type one would work even better.
Liqud electrical tape. (Again very easy to remove and can basically peel it off with your finger nail)
Sunt resistors of your choice. (Tool to work out what ones you want Here)
New Thermal paste.
New Thermal pads (incase you rip some)
Step 1:
Dissasemble the card. Wont post instructions for that since each card is a little bit different.
Step 2:
Identify the shunt resistors. They will be maked 005 or R005 which is 5mOhm.
Step 3:
Clean up shunts contact area with isopropyl alcohol.
The card will have conformal coating on it.
Step 4:
Apply some conductive paint to the contact area of the shunts on the pcb and the ones your going to add.
Step 5:
Carefully stack the shunts of your choice on top. Press down so it presses out any exess between the contact area like thermal paste, allow 15mins for the conductive paint to dry. As you can see there was a little bit too much of a blob in my image above so I had to clean up the over flow with a cotton swab.
The least ammount you can use the best since its there to fill in micro gaps not to be a big blob to sit on top of.
Step 6:
While that is drying clean up the rest of the board and heat sink.
Step 7:
Apply a small ammount of liquid electrical tape to the stacked shunts to help hold them in place.
Might not be needed since the conductive paint Iv used drys to quite a strong bond. But personally I wont want anything falling off.
Step 8:
Put new thermal pads on the mosfets/choakes that fell apart when removing the stock cooler (seems more like a thick paste they use)
Step 9:
Repaste the die and reassemble the cooler.
Make sure everything has good contact by checking with a light on the other side of the PCB and see if it shines though any gaps.
Step 10:
Confirm its worked with a stress test.
Or even just check with GPUZ at idle.
Add together the wattage from the GPU Chip, MVDDC and SRC. There combined wattage should be greater then what board power is reporting.
In my cards case, at idle board power is reporting 32W but if I add those things together I get 43W which is about the percentage difference Id expect.
You can do the same at load but its harder since the values are flicking around.
-------------------------------- New INFO (2 Plug Cards) --------------------------------------------------
Since they are easy to remove and try other values iv been testing a whole heap of combonations while measuring power with inductive clamp and have found doing just the connectors doesnt open up the card completely.
No matter what shunt you use on the 2 Connector ones youll only get 40W more max from them (20W each connector even when your expecting to get 50W more each connector.)
This is because the next thing the GPU hits is the GPU Chip power limiter.
Doing the GPU Chip shunt will then give you a further 30W then the next limit your on is the PCI-E slot shunt since they force a more strict power split between slot and connectors then they did on past gens. Iv confirmed this by using a 20 mOhm shunt on the slot shunt and that increased the connectors draw also.
After shutting 1 at a time then checking what it effects iv come up with this map of the shunts.
So the ideal config for a 2 plug card is going to be to use 15 mOhm shunts on top of each shunt and the 390W bios since its power split is more towards the plugs.
This will give you
100W from the slot
210W from each connector (17.5 Amps so under the 20amp fuses)
for a total of 510W card draw.
If your motherboard is of lesser quality and your worried about 100W draw from it you can use a 20 mOhm on the slot shunt.
Which will give you 94W from the slot and a max power limit of 498W since it will be hitting the slot power limiter.
