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He simply didn't have proper soldering experience.
My guess is that he either didn't flux properly, didn't flux after each step, or didn't heat the shunts enough for the solder to form a bond, because he was afraid of burning the shunts (this won't happen, the PCB ends up absorbing a great deal of the heat). But my biggest guess is because the GB uses 2 watt shunts, it has the same issue as the FE shunts--the conductive silver edges sit lower than the middle housing. So you have to first create a solder bridge on top of the original shunts on the conductive edges, using flux and heating up the shunt enough for the solder to stick to it, and then flux again, then apply the new shunt and then melt the bridge so the solder flows on the edges of both the old and new shunt. If the bridge isn't thick enough, then no contact will be made. So the bridge has to be above the height of the black housing, on each side. It's essential especially with 2W shunts that you use 3M Polyimide tape to solder mask the PCB to avoid accidents and have some desoldering wick available as well just in case.

It's a lot easier with 1W shunts (e.g. MSI, eVGA, Asus), since then you don't need an initial bridge at all and you can just bond the edges directly.
Reminds me of the time a buddy of mine bought LEDs to solder into this PS3 controller. I came over and he had a brand new controller in a box and the other controller in the trash can.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I have a decent amount of soldering experience and have been modding things for years, although yes the contacts of the shunts being lower made it tricky, which I wasn't prepared for. I did use kapton tape to protect the rest of the pcb and of course flux where needed, although at first I was trying solder paste which did not work well :). It was working for months so I still think there is something that just could not handle the extra watts over time.
 
Discussion starter · #23 · (Edited)
Just an update the card died on me again the same way as before. Although before it died I was looking at hwinfo and it was showing 12v on pcie pin 1 and only 10v on pin 2 not sure if that is normal for desktop use though. Temps stayed in mid 60s in game and was doing fine all day. Edit:
Annnd its booting again, I just let it sit powered off for a little while, so now I'm thinking it might be something overheating like a vrm or maybe the ram? I just replaced the thermal pads but I will have to do some testing now to make sure everything has proper contact.
 
Sounds like you have a PS issue.

Try testing it with a different GPU.
 
I was able to run 3dmark and taking a look at hwinfo while the test was running gpu 8 pin 1 voltage was 10.6 and 8 pin 2 was 11.6 and port royal score is low.

View attachment 2516307
Something's up with the power readings.
GPU 8 pin 1 + 8 pin 2 + PCIE Slot Power should equal Total Board Power (GPU Power).
 
I put back in my good old 1080 ti and both its input pins are reading 12v+ so I don't think its the PSU. The card might just have some resistance lowering the input voltage.
Spray some Deoxit D5 into the card's power pins (this is safe to do), then insert and remove the 8 pin connectors to clean them. They could be oxidized.
I have no idea if those readings are accurate or not, but if it is actually 10v, that's exactly why it crashes. But you would have to send the card to someone like Elmor or one of these guys like this guy:
to see if there's a problem.

When my PCIE cable on my older Seasonic degraded, the 12v on my r9 290X read 11.25-1.137v at load which would cause, oddly enough, black screens and hard locks at light load. When I replaced that cable with a spare (daisy chained like the first one, which might have been why it degraded?), the voltage was back at 11.75v and no black screens. When I then used the final spare and had them separate 8 pin + 6+2 pin, same voltage, so my black screens were caused by too low 12v from the degraded cable.
 
I put back in my good old 1080 ti and both its input pins are reading 12v+ so I don't think its the PSU. The card might just have some resistance lowering the input voltage.
Sounds like you created a short somewhere thats loading down the supply.

Get a laser thermometer on their and find out what component is heating up and trace that back to where you made a bridge.

Don't run the card for long as you will cause all types of failures until you track this down.

If your not familiar with tracking down shorts you should send this card out to a professional rather than burning out the main die.

I'd recommend Loius Rossmans shop.

Spray some Deoxit D5 into the card's power pins (this is safe to do), then insert and remove the 8 pin connectors to clean them. They could be oxidized.
I have no idea if those readings are accurate or not, but if it is actually 10v, that's exactly why it crashes. But you would have to send the card to someone like Elmor or one of these guys like this guy:
to see if there's a problem.

When my PCIE cable on my older Seasonic degraded, the 12v on my r9 290X read 11.25-1.137v at load which would cause, oddly enough, black screens and hard locks at light load. When I replaced that cable with a spare (daisy chained like the first one, which might have been why it degraded?), the voltage was back at 11.75v and no black screens. When I then used the final spare and had them separate 8 pin + 6+2 pin, same voltage, so my black screens were caused by too low 12v from the degraded cable.
I watched some of NorthridgeFix vids and I'm not entirely impressed, I would go elsewhere.


Now this guy knows what hes doing.


Its a shame he seems to have disappeared.
 
Sounds like you created a short somewhere thats loading down the supply.

Get a laser thermometer on their and find out what component is heating up and trace that back to where you made a bridge.

Don't run the card for long as you will cause all types of failures until you track this down.

If your not familiar with tracking down shorts you should send this card out to a professional rather than burning out the main die.

I'd recommend Loius Rossmans shop.



I watched some of NorthridgeFix vids and I'm not entirely impressed, I would go elsewhere.


Now this guy knows what hes doing.


Its a shame he seems to have disappeared.
I sent a message to his instagram. Let's see if he replies.
 
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Discussion starter · #32 · (Edited)
I have the card out and sitting on my desk so at least I'm not using it. That would make sense if there is a short somewhere but its also kind of odd it worked for months before it became a problem but maybe something finally failed. HWINFO shows the 2 input pins on my 1080ti at 12v so I don't think the psu cables are bad. I will take one more close look at it to see if I can find any obvious shorts if not then I will send it off for repairs. I will be sure to check out the vids, I did watch one guy on youtube repair a 3090 with a multimeter but his skills were better than mine as he tracked down a missing linear regulator and was able to replace it.
 
I have the card out and sitting on my desk so at least I'm not using it. That would make sense if there is a short somewhere but its also kind of odd it worked for months before it became a problem but maybe something finally failed. HWINFO shows the 2 input pins on my 1080ti at 12v so I don't think the psu cables are bad. I will take one more close look at it to see if I can find any obvious shorts if not then I will send it off for repairs. I will be sure to check out the vids, I did watch one guy on youtube repair a 3090 with a multimeter but his skills were better than mine as he tracked down a missing linear regulator and was able to replace it.
You can contact him on instagram but i dont know how you would arrange him looking at the card. Plus he doesn't have parts to fix it.
(https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLqBEpeQPZTdhCd0nHWIf6g )

 
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Discussion starter · #34 · (Edited)
I'm not really confident in either of them but what do I know? lol. This guy seems to know his stuff although maybe not an expert on the 30 series.
I filled out the form on northbridgefix site because he seems to be the easiest to get in contact with and does 30 series repair.

I also emailed this company Blog - Global Priority LLC
it looks like they fixed the 2080ti in the other thread with broken traces.
 
So my gigabyte 3090 died on me. Basically it started dropping signal while gaming or under any 3d load and finally it stopped giving a signal on boot. It had been working fine for the past 5-6 months or so and I had it on a water cooling loop with a bykski block and temps maxed out at a little over 60c. I did shunt mod it pretty much right away by stacking I think 10mohm shunts, and the mod was working fine and the card was pulling a bit over 500w at max power. I've read other gigabyte and evga cards can get this issue as well so I'm not 100% sure if its related to anything I've done to the card.

I'm wondering if its worth fixing the card, either myself or if I should try to find a repair shop or just sell it on ebay for parts/repair. I've taken pictures of the pcb in segments to maximize the resolution so its easier to see zoomed in.

Back side.

View attachment 2515576
You can see the pcie power shunt on the left side here.
View attachment 2515575
Front
View attachment 2515577
View attachment 2515581

I know the shunt job is a bit sloppy but I wasn't aware of the edges of the shunts being lower than the resistor itself so it took a couple tries leaving burn marks and some left over flux. I bridged what I thought were the fuses with just blobs of solder to bypass them from being blown.
It is not under warranty anymore???......Better to fix it they never pay well for damaged gpu's even 3090's
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
It is not under warranty anymore???......Better to fix it they never pay well for damaged gpu's even 3090's
I saw broken 3090s going for $800+ on ebay, which is better than nothing. warranty is void, I hear gigabyte warranty service is pretty bad anyways. I sent the card off to global priority so hopefully they can repair it.
 
I saw broken 3090s going for $800+ on ebay, which is better than nothing. warranty is void, I hear gigabyte warranty service is pretty bad anyways. I sent the card off to global priority so hopefully they can repair it.
Sent it where?

I watched a few of that Tech Cemetery Guy and yeah he knows what hes doing.

Now you will hear him state here something that I also noticed on alot of these YouTube hacks just pushing voltage into a board and looking for the fire,

 
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
Sent it where?

I watched a few of that Tech Cemetery Guy and yeah he knows what hes doing.

Now you will hear him state here something that I also noticed on alot of these YouTube hacks just pushing voltage into a board and looking for the fire,

I sent it to Global Priority Blog - Global Priority LLC

The tech cemetery guy is pretty sharp, his 3080 repair video he somehow finds 2x 0 ohm resistors that went bad and replaced them which fixed the card.
 
I sent it to Global Priority Blog - Global Priority LLC

The tech cemetery guy is pretty sharp, his 3080 repair video he somehow finds 2x 0 ohm resistors that went bad and replaced them which fixed the card.

LOL, I have no clue why he said that. Must be a joke, 0 ohm resistor is a conductor.

And yes he was correct when he said he would never repair someone elses card like that as its hack.

I thought "Global Priority" was a shipping service! :)
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
And we have 12 volts!~ woohooo. I got the card back from global priority and he was able to fix it. Apparently some of the solder paste had got under some of the components shorting one of the 12v 8 pin inputs. Another thing he fixed was the card at some point stopped running at 16x pcie bus speed and was stuck at 4x and he was able to find 2 small resistors and repair them on the card and now its running at 16x again. He also cleaned the card up extremely well it looks brand new. I forgot to take pictures of the pcb because I was excited to plug it in. He also sent me some extra solder, flux and some other things so I don't botch the next shunt mod as bad lol. I probably won't attempt to shunt mod this card again at least until something better than a 3090 comes out anyways.

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