Hey everyone, since I repasted my GPU I am having temperature issues with my air cooled 6900 xt. My mistake while repasting was that I screwed in one spring screw fully and then I screwed another one fully and it wasn’t an X pattern too and I forced the metal thing in the middle of the card by putting pressure on it in order to screw it in. So I took it apart again and did it correcty, I screwed the card back using a X pattern and I tightened each spring screw little by little I didn’t screw one in fully and then screwed another one fully. After my second attempt of repasting at first my temps were fine but after a while the temps got terrible again. I suspect that I may have bent the PCB permanently due to the mistake I did and now there isn’t proper contact. Is this possible? I ordered a waterblock for the GPU now but I am afraid that there will be contact issues on the waterblock as well because of the possibly bent PCB. Does anyone have any clue if it is possible to permanently bent the PCB and have contact issues? When I look at it from the outside it looks fine.
May I have bent my 6900 XT PCB permanently?
cfranko
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Cause i used it myself on GPUs,also there is reports/reviews on the net which confirm my experience.
So for Dies without HS my first choice would be Thermalright TFX and CM Mastergel Maker after LM.
For easier application just use some heat on the sryringe.
So for Dies without HS my first choice would be Thermalright TFX and CM Mastergel Maker after LM.
For easier application just use some heat on the sryringe.
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I'd go with a nonconductive paste that is easy to spread and is likely freshly made. The higher up on the performance charts the better, but I wouldn't sacrifice likely freshness from high sales at the store of your choice for .3c for that. If you get something old it won't spread well.
Your paste spread does seem thick, but a lower viscosity paste (like MX-4) should mostly squish out the sides, which is where non conductive comes in. You saw what your die & cooler looked like after you pulled them apart. If there was a ton of paste around the die you could use a little less. If there was about 1mm around the die that is not bad. I spread paste out before I mount the cooler like you do, but the x method has also worked fine for those who use it.
I use lm for my cpus, tried it with a gpu and didn't get a big difference over regular paste and stained my copper heatsink. Not really worth the risk imo.
Also I likely have much less recent experience with different pastes than most of these guys. I just get a tube of pretty good and use it until gone, so most likely their information on particular pastes is more up to date.
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The Gelid GC extreme and the Mastergal Maker Nano are at the same price, I think I am going to get the Gelid GC Extreme
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MX-4 is hot garbage. It's been known to turn into complete soup and separate on high TDP and hot parts, especially past 80C.
MX-5 is considerably better.
Kryonaut Extreme is great except it's more expensive than even TFX is (unless you buy the 33g jar for $105) and absolutely NEEDS a perfectly flat and stable mounting surface to excel, otherwise use TFX or FuzeIce Plus).
There have apparently been different batches of Mastergel, and then you have Mastergel Maker, and then Maker Nano.
And then I saw people on notebookreview saying that with Maker Nano, 2016 year tubes performed differently than 2020 year tubes.
I personally can't stand Maker Nano. It's just far too sticky, and gets destroyed by both FuzeIce Plus (a similarly sticky paste, but just is better) and Thermalright TFX (the God of "Help me I can't spread this"--almost boil the syringe for 10 minutes (heat water to almost a boil, remove from heat, put the syringe in the water and let it sit for 10 minutes, and then spread it after. OR use a hairdryer set at 80C to heat it after pouring it on the chip, if you own one, THEN spread it).
Can you please take a picture of the "spread pattern" of the MX-4 AFTER removing the cooler?
But first: Spread the MX-4 manually first in a "semi thick" layer (this is intentional, please don't make it super thin).
Then assemble the X-bracket and all screws on the PCB fully.
Then immediately disassemble it and try to remove the cooler 'straight off' without any sideways motion.
Then upload a picture here. Make sure it's clear and high res.
If you have 'problems' uploading a picture here (which you shouldn't), you can also use "IMGUR" website and post a 'direct link' to the picture with the hot links.
Did you apply new thermal pads on the card?
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I don’t really want to spend more time and effort on this air cooler so I won’t be doing what you said unfortunately. When my waterblock arrives I am not going to use MX-4 because as you said it is hot garbage and considering my GPU is always 100 degrees that poor MX-4 really struggles. Right now I am between Kryonaut, Gelid Extreme and Mastergal Maker Nano.
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I was only asking these questions because your results are a symptom of incorrect thermal pad thickness creating contact problems on the core. But I understand and that's fine if that's what you're going to do.
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I mean the thermalpads are the stock thermalpads of the GPU I didn’t touch them at all so I don’t really know how that could be an issue.
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Both the TFX and Kryonaut Extreme is way too expensive I can’t really get those. I can afford the Thermalright TF8 though, but since its priced at the same point as the Gelid GC Extreme and Kryonaut I am not really sure if the TF8 worth it. As I said I think I am going to get the Gelid extreme.
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For someone struggling with proper application, we should never recommend conductive thermal compound. I don't recommend it to anyone but the most hardcore.
I use Noctua NT-H2 (or H1 previously) most of the time. It's easy to use and withstands high temperatures well.
I sometimes use Kryonaut, but it dries out for me quickly if I'm doing heavy benching and go over 90 C or so. Conductonaut is something I don't use on anything I might want to mess with frequently like a CPU or GPU. The last time I bothered with it was after delidding a CPU.
I use Noctua NT-H2 (or H1 previously) most of the time. It's easy to use and withstands high temperatures well.
I sometimes use Kryonaut, but it dries out for me quickly if I'm doing heavy benching and go over 90 C or so. Conductonaut is something I don't use on anything I might want to mess with frequently like a CPU or GPU. The last time I bothered with it was after delidding a CPU.
I had experienced thermal paste pump out?? or what is called .. when i direct die cooled my 6700k cpu with mx4 or mx2.. Temps was great first week or two.. then terrible..Changed to LM and problem went away..
I wouldnt be suprised if you bent PCB either because i nipped a corner of a gpu die off when i screwed a cooler to hard.. need to be careful.
I wouldnt be suprised if you bent PCB either because i nipped a corner of a gpu die off when i screwed a cooler to hard.. need to be careful.
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The problem probably is the MX-4, I checked the PCB today and it looks completely flat and good. I am between Gelid GC Extreme and Mastergel Maker Nano for my new paste.
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I bought the Mastergel Maker Nano, thanks.
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I am going to use the new paste on my waterblock, not on the current air cooler so I can’t really compare it to the MX-4 I have.
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