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By the way ...
About the CPU cooling... it is worthed to replace the Noctua NH-u9DX i4 cooler (which is specifically designed for Xeons, pretty good one) with the Noctua NH-D15, in order to have the best air cooling possible?

(I've heard there could be issues with RAM and Graphics card fitting due to huge size of the CPU cooler...)
 
Memory should be fine but I would get the D15S so it doesn't block the first x16 slot.
Or simply mount the d15 in horizontal direction ;) doesn't block anything except it does get tricky to reach the release tab for the 1st gpu
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Or go with the PCCooler GI-R68X, a 6 x 8mm piped cooler with dual RGB 120's and a massive 300W TDP rating. The Noctua's are 6 x 6mm piped coolers. Tough to find the R68X, but I have difficulty to find an equivalent for that amount of capacity unless going water.

By the way ...
About the CPU cooling... it is worthed to replace the Noctua NH-u9DX i4 cooler (which is specifically designed for Xeons, pretty good one) with the Noctua NH-D15, in order to have the best air cooling possible?

(I've heard there could be issues with RAM and Graphics card fitting due to huge size of the CPU cooler...)
 
Coming from an i7 4930K that I had with a mild overclock of 4.2GHz on all cores, lowest load line calibration compensation, and a very small positive offset voltage, I basically left the BIOS settings the same for my new Xeon E5-1680 v2. Voltages are good on auto with that small offset, always under 1.3V. I will play more with lowering them, but I have a question about VTT voltage. I had it on "Auto" for the i7, and now I notice in the BIOS that VTT is at about 1.24V on Auto as set by my motherboard (ASUS Rampage IV Black Edition). I see the recommendation of setting VTT and VCCSA to 1.1V. VCCSA was already sub 1.1V, but VTT on Auto being 1.24V is a problem? I do have 4 RAM modules, 32GB total, running in XMP at 2133MHz 1.65V. Perhaps that's the reason for raised VTT? Would lowering it to 1.1V reduce voltage stability with 4 sticks?

Edit / Update: Actually, was getting errors in Memtest86 with those settings and XMP enabled. I was gradually setting everything to auto and retesting, and it wasn't until I disabled XMP that Memtest86 has been running well with no errors. So now I need to figure out what to do about that. The system has been working with the previous CPU (4930K) and XMP enabled for 3 years fine, I hope I can get XMP to work with the new Xeon without tinkering for days with voltage settings. Once in a blue moon there'd be a crash when gaming in the past, so it may have been XMP was not completely stable before too, and I didn't notice. Now I don't remember how long ago I had run memtest on the system before the change--may have been a couple of years ago.

Memtest86 is still reading "DRAM Info: PC3-19200 DDR3 XMP 24000MHz 10-12-12-31" (G.Skill), even tough I had changed from XMP to Manual in the BIOS. It's definitely not on the XMP profile, however, I did double-check. 4 passes, zero errors.

Edit #2: Got a memory overclock working in XMP mode, but had to lower DRAM clock to 2133MHz from the default XMP1 of 2400MHz. VTT set to 1.15V, VCCSA set to auto (but generally under 1.1V). Can't get the CPU stable at lower voltages than my 4930K was using for the same 42x multiplier on all cores, so I'm not sure if I got a dud of a Xeon. Just running at stock 3.9GHz max now but set to sync all cores, no load line calibration compensation with a tiny +0.005V offset voltage. At least that's keeping me under 1.25V. I can do 1.2V with manual voltage (not offset) and setting Vcore LLC to High (50% compensation), but then of course it doesn't really go below 1.2V in CPU-Z at idle, even with Speed Step enabled. I'd prefer to lower the voltage at light loads.
 
Just a datapoint for the masses:
I've had this 1680v2 for a long time, its been flogged over 1.5 volts, seen 1.45v daily for a year, and generally abused quite heavily. It has been cooled well the whole time though.

It's just NOW starting to show signs of degrading. I had to back off from 4.6 to 4.5 daily @ 1.372v (after vdroop), to get stability. So thats like 4 or 5 years getting the balls beat off it and it dropped 100mhz.... lmao, amazing little monster.



Not a chance you'll get 4.5 with a 212. Think more like 4.3ish.

At 4.5 with my monster loop I see 60ish in prime95, but that's with liquid metal TIM, was near 70 with Kryonaut (mount was probably contributing tbh).

Temperatures don't matter much tbh, this chip is voltage limited not thermal limited. In the dead of winter with the water near freezing, it still takes 1.5v ish to get anywhere near 4.8.

LN2 isn't going to make the same difference as it does on some other chips, sure you'll get more, but it'll be limited by the whopping 25MB unified L3 on 1st generation 14nm.



Any X79 board (aside from the weird chinese crap produced recently) with a monoblock will handle a heavily OCd 1680v2. Without monoblock...I'd suggest keep package power around 160watts max.

The power phase thing, it's massively thrown around by people who understand the electronics often (thanks youtube) but don't actually understand what all that cool tech info translates to when pushing a chip to it's limits. Small story below on why you NEED to water cool the VRMs if you're going to load your octocore at 200 package watts for extended periods of time:

//story
I first bought a Rampage 4 Gene, going for a small form factor build when it came out. I threw in my 3960x ES and proceeded to take cracks at records at the time, sure enough, my 3960x ES was an absolute monster, scaling linearly up to 5.1 ghz!! Getting there though took a good chuck of vcore as one would expect, and drew a lot of power. Chip was water cooled and I was doing this in December, with window open, so room ambient was mid 40s f.

Hit it with a realtime priority intel burn test and.... smoke, sparks, and the magic smell. One of the MOSFETs had melted the solder under it and slid downwards on the board, it did autoprotect and immediately hard shutdown :O Like an idiot, I hit the power button to restart it after a minute of head scratching, sure enough, it still worked (lmao). Head straight to the ROG forums posted a picture and Shamino direct swapped my board out for one in his lab via DHL 2 day express, prepaid return provided. He wanted it to inspect and identify the failure mode, as it was one of the first sold in the US, and as far as I know the first pushed that hard, so I left all bios settings as they were and sent it to him to probe and prod.
//endstory

I have had 4 boards that would VRM throttle when pushed really hard and the VRMs were air cooled, every single one stopped doing it when I threw monoblocks on them instead of CPU only blocks. The old "monoblocks are for show" is 100% NOT true if you intend to actually flog your CPU, but, there are not many people out there who do, most people do some crazy OC get some scores and back way off to a middling OC for daily.

NOW: that was a lower power part than a 1680v2 when pushed to it's limits by a good bit. All these people buying ryzen boards, eschewing monoblocks and going with just CPU blocks, are blessed the Ryzen 1k/2k/3k are essentially tirds for OCing beyond what AMD has specced them to. The majority of the non-halo boards out there could not handle 200watt+ draws, air cooled, in a case for extended periods of time.



i got my1680v2 at 4.5ghz on a hyper 212 evo at 1.32 to 1.368 volts on x79 tuf mobo. 107 x42 = 4494 mhz 16gb 1712mhz ram at 1.6v . p95 stable 3+ hours at 70- 74 degrees any higher and it overheats or is not stable. to keep it cool on a hyper 212 evo 1.368 is the max voltage you can use. so yeah your wrong it is possible but barely
 
i got my1680v2 at 4.5ghz on a hyper 212 evo at 1.32 to 1.368 volts on x79 tuf mobo. 107 x42 = 4494 mhz 16gb 1712mhz ram at 1.6v . p95 stable 3+ hours at 70- 74 degrees any higher and it overheats or is not stable. to keep it cool on a hyper 212 evo 1.368 is the max voltage you can use. so yeah your wrong it is possible but barely
also i use standard thermal paste, and a small fan mounted on the vrms as cooler vrms = lower cpu temps. the ram is also overclocked with 8 9 9 23 timings
 
also i use standard thermal paste, and a small fan mounted on the vrms as cooler vrms = lower cpu temps. the ram is also overclocked with 8 9 9 23 timings
150 w tdp is max for the 212 evo with 2 fans at 60 to 70 percent at my overclock the tdp reported is 147 to 150 w . **** water cooling hen 4.5 is doable on a budget air cooler , you hust need a lot of time to find the right voltages and test overclocks
 
150 w tdp is max for the 212 evo with 2 fans at 60 to 70 percent at my overclock the tdp reported is 147 to 150 w . **** water cooling hen 4.5 is doable on a budget air cooler , you hust need a lot of time to find the right voltages and test overclocks
4.5ghz at 0.04 offset voltage or if you want a more safe overclock use 105 x 42 for 4410 mhz at 1.3v maual voltage llc to high and alll the current limits at max easily doable for hyper 212 evo max 70 ish degrees. .i will share screenshots of all the voltages if asked and you can copy and go from there
 
4.5ghz at 0.04 offset voltage or if you want a more safe overclock use 105 x 42 for 4410 mhz at 1.3v maual voltage llc to high and alll the current limits at max easily doable for hyper 212 evo max 70 ish degrees. .i will share screenshots of all the voltages if asked and you can copy and go from there
dont let anyone stop you from pushing your hardwware to the limits . try for yourself and see what is the max overclock you can get . i would reccomend trying 4.4ghz 105 x 42 = 4410mhz then increasing the fsb by 1 untill unstable . then you will find your max overclock . also overclocking with fsb and multiplyer results in higher overclocks , overclocked ram with less heat and less voltage than just changing multiplier .
 
dont let anyone stop you from pushing your hardwware to the limits . try for yourself and see what is the max overclock you can get . i would reccomend trying 4.4ghz 105 x 42 = 4410mhz then increasing the fsb by 1 untill unstable . then you will find your max overclock . also overclocking with fsb and multiplyer results in higher overclocks , overclocked ram with less heat and less voltage than just changing multiplier .
also dont use xmp set ram to the frequency you want and leave auto timings this will help overclock . my ram wont even run its default 1600mhz with xmp at stock speed/voltage . but when maually set ram speed to 1600mhz and leave timings on auto it works . fxck xmp (useless crap for people who cant overclock )
 
also dont use xmp set ram to the frequency you want and leave auto timings this will help overclock . my ram wont even run its default 1600mhz with xmp at stock speed/voltage . but when maually set ram speed to 1600mhz and leave timings on auto it works . fxck xmp (useless crap for people who cant overclock )
i have 550 w psu so psu wattage doenst really matter. the biggest limit is voltage any higher than 1.368 v and the 212 evo thermal throttles under load for 5+minutes . 4.5ghz is at the very limit for budget air cooling but entirely possible.
 
Hello again,

Now the 3770K & 3930K have been overclocked to 4.4 Ghz & 4.2 Ghz respectively - maybe with a little room to go higher on the 3770K I'm about to have a go at a Xeon E5 1680 V2 8C16T Ivy Bridge processor that was available at a lot cheaper price.

A little worrying it had a tiny burn mark on the CPU land pads (the gold contacts) which got me really worried.

I've got the system booted with Asus X79 Deluxe a nice motherboard!

C-states is switched on and one or two other things like turbo but it's not time to overclock just yet.

I've got P95 29.4 running the CPU at stock with turbo at 3.9 Ghz on all cores and it's churning away.

Looking at CPU-Z the v-core looks very low - it is at around 0.500v-0.560v - I don't know what load line calibration is set to but I did update the BIOS so it may be on auto.

It seems to me that the voltage is very low compared to other CPU's and that Xeon are better binned etc.....(please comment)

After 30 minutes hottest core was 60 C maybe on 2-3 cores with Phanteks air cooler.

I don't want to go over 70C if I can help it - TJMAX is 95C according to CORE TEMP.

What v-core will be needed to get to 4.2 Ghz & 4.4 Ghz on all cores? (I'll find out anyway)

But considering the v-core is currently under 0.600v @ tubo 3.9 Ghz it shouldn't take to much more v-core to sustain 4.2 Ghz?

Any comments (I'm not expert yet)---thanks
you need 1.3 v manual voltage for 4.4ghz with llc at high at all the current limits at 130% temp is about 65-70 c
 
By the way ...
About the CPU cooling... it is worthed to replace the Noctua NH-u9DX i4 cooler (which is specifically designed for Xeons, pretty good one) with the Noctua NH-D15, in order to have the best air cooling possible?

(I've heard there could be issues with RAM and Graphics card fitting due to huge size of the CPU cooler...)
Just happened to be browsing your thread. The D15 goes vertical and has shims if it needs to be lifted over the RAM. I use it with 5950 and 3080TI. (No shims required on my ASRock board)
 
Hi guys, I hope someone can help me. I recently upgraded my ASUS Rampage IV Extreme (BIOS 4901) build from a i7-3930K to a E5-1680V2 that I found on eBay. It was fine, it POSTed the first boot, Windows had no issues, but then I noticed that at seemingly random intervals, the screen would look like the picture below, and after a couple of seconds go black but the PC is still on, and I must manually reset the computer to recover.
Electricity Audio equipment Circuit component Electronic signage Electronic device

First thinking it was either my OC, GPU, or motherboard, I disabled all OC's and tried my GPU in another PCIe x16 slot and the same issue appeared, then I tried DDU'ing my GPU driver, no luck, and finally I tried a Windows reinstall multiple times, paying special attention to which drivers got installed as Windows has me download chipset drivers, same issue with or without new chipset drivers. So, thinking it was my GPU, I tried my brother's spare working GTX 1070 in both PCIe x16 slots and the same issue persisted even after a DDU. I then reinstalled my old 3930K and under the same workload that would cause a crash (MSFS 2020 downloading game files) there were no issues. So, thinking it was just a bad stock from eBay, I contacted the seller and he said I could do an exchange if I pay for shipping back, which I did, and then I installed the "new" CPU (which indeed appeared to be a different stock that what I sent) and the same issues popped up. I have tried both Windows 10 Home and Windows 10 Pro thinking it might be a Home/Xeon issue, but no luck.

Specs
Motherboard: ASUS Rampage IV Extreme (BIOS 4901)
RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengeance Pro DDR3 at stock speeds (not XMP)
GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 FE or PNY GTX 1070 XLR8
Expansion Cards: EVGA Nu Audio Pro 7.1 (Main and Daughter Card), TP-Link Archer TX3000E WiFi Card

I am just posting here because this seems to be the only sort of active place left that is talking about this CPU/platform and I am just at the end of my rope. From everywhere I have seen online, this setup should be working even though it is technically not on the QVL of the motherboard (E5-1660 V2 is though).

Thanks to anyone who can provide any guidance.
 
You've done a lot of good troubleshooting so far.

You can rule out the O/S, drivers... you can rule out the GPU... you ruled out the 1680v2 by getting a 2nd one... the issue does not exist with a 3930K so this really only leaves one possibility (that I can think of)... BIOS settings that are appropriate for that CPU. It is important to note that x79 was never designed to support 8 cores.. The 1680v2 was ONLY sold in a Mac PRO. The highest official support for x79 is 6 cores so I wouldn't expect it to know how to deal with an 8-core on "AUTO". I also run a 1680v2 on my RIVBE and have no issues so it is definitely workable and can definitely be stable it just needs some tinkering. When I first got my 1680v2 I had issues (not the same one) and AUTO settings in the BIOS were not good for it. I pretty much had to manually specify all the BIOS values (that matter) for the CPU even though I was coming from a 1650v2. The extra 2 cores (4 threads) definitely seemed to warrant some extra BIOS fiddling. I don't remember EXACTLY what settings were needed to make it stable but it wasn't anything drastic... I think it was CPU current (not voltage) under Digi+ power control, I maxxed it out... 130% or 140% whatever it is. You can just set most of the settings on that BIOS page to max values for the CPU and experiment. If you still get stuck I could also take some pics of my BIOS settings (although I wouldn't say that they are the best but they are working :).

Good luck, hope this helps.
 
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You've done a lot of good troubleshooting so far.

You can rule out the O/S, drivers... you can rule out the GPU... you ruled out the 1680v2 by getting a 2nd one... the issue does not exist with a 3930K so this really only leaves one possibility (that I can think of)... BIOS settings that are appropriate for that CPU. It is important to note that x79 was never designed to support 8 cores.. The 1680v2 was ONLY sold in a Mac PRO. The highest official support for x79 is 6 cores so I wouldn't expect it to know how to deal with an 8-core on "AUTO". I also run a 1680v2 on my RIVBE and have no issues so it is definitely workable and can definitely be stable it just needs some tinkering. When I first got my 1680v2 I had issues (not the same one) and AUTO settings in the BIOS were not good for it. I pretty much had to manually specify all the BIOS values (that matter) for the CPU even though I was coming from a 1650v2. The extra 2 cores (4 threads) definitely seemed to warrant some extra BIOS fiddling. I don't remember EXACTLY what settings were needed to make it stable but it wasn't anything drastic... I think it was CPU current (not voltage) under Digi+ power control, I maxxed it out... 130% or 140% whatever it is. You can just set most of the settings on that BIOS page to max values for the CPU and experiment. If you still get stuck I could also take some pics of my BIOS settings (although I wouldn't say that they are the best but they are working :).

Good luck, hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply, I thought I was going crazy over here because online basically no one has issues and I have had nothing but issues. In a last ditch effort before seeing your post, the one thing I didn't do was clear the CMOS. I opted for the clear CMOS button on the back of the motherboard versus actually removing the battery, but so far, with stock/auto under the workload that has broken my system pretty consistently, it was fine. I am running stability with AIDA64 right now and it has been fine for 17 minutes.
 
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