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Logitech G502 Switch Recomendation

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StAndrew

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Switching from a SteelSeries Rival 600 to the G502 lightspeed and I'm having difficulty with the lighter switches, primarily with the right click. My grip and large hands lends to a heavier right finger and trying to keep a lighter grip is fatiguing my hand.

So I'm looking for a heavier switch recommendation. I believe the G502 uses Omron D2F-01 switches with but I'm getting that from Reddit so...

Mouseclub.co has the actuation pressure listed as 75gf. Most "medium to heavy" switch recommendations I've read include the Kailh GM 4.0 reds (70 +/- 10 gf) and ZF Gold Dots (65 +/- 15gf) which seem to be about the same as the Omron D2F switches...

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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#2 ·
I replaced all my Logitech mouse switches with Kailh GM 8's as soon as I need too because Logitech is notorious for bounce (double/triple clicks, and drag click release).

I have a 604 for daily and a 502 as a spare, both got bounce after about a year into use. I tinker with electronics and all kinds of fun things so I already have equipment to do most low-mid tier repairs so it wasn't bad in the wallet or difficult.

However, if you find yourself over your head, or money gated (I dont recommend getting cheap solder tools from amazon), then dissasemble the mouse and take the microswitch board to a TV repair shop and pay the guy 15-20$ to replace the switch(s).
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
emeianoite said:
I replaced all my Logitech mouse switches with Kailh GM 8's as soon as I need too because Logitech is notorious for bounce (double/triple clicks, and drag click release).

I have a 604 for daily and a 502 as a spare, both got bounce after about a year into use. I tinker with electronics and all kinds of fun things so I already have equipment to do most low-mid tier repairs so it wasn't bad in the wallet or difficult.

However, if you find yourself over your head, or money gated (I dont recommend getting cheap solder tools from amazon), then dissasemble the mouse and take the microswitch board to a TV repair shop and pay the guy 15-20$ to replace the switch(s).
Click to expand...
Are they as loud as people say? I should be able to handle the soldering :D
 
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#4 ·
there's an audible difference, so they are louder, and slightly heavier but it's honestly not an issue... I also have an 60% keyboard with optical red switches, click clack is normal for me.

I knew I recognized your name, you're the guy asking about the pfsense.

Good **** dude, if you ever want to talk about setups on discord or whatever, hit me up
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
emeianoite said:
there's an audible difference, so they are louder, and slightly heavier but it's honestly not an issue... I also have an 60% keyboard with optical red switches, click clack is normal for me.

I knew I recognized your name, you're the guy asking about the pfsense.

Good **** dude, if you ever want to talk about setups on discord or whatever, hit me up
Click to expand...
Will do man! I'll be on travel the next few weeks and have some time off so I'm going through a few projects. Hopefully I'll get that Pfsense setup sooner than later but the $500 cost is a bit steep for me with gas and inflation going through the roof.
 
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#6 · (Edited)
StAndrew said:
Will do man! I'll be on travel the next few weeks and have some time off so I'm going through a few projects. Hopefully I'll get that Pfsense setup sooner than later but the $500 cost is a bit steep for me with gas and inflation going through the roof.
Click to expand...
you know what, I figured the same, but building out a proper 1u router for me was worth it. I picked up my DQ77KB for 75$, I know they're more expensive now but hey... you can still get the ram and 3470T (low power and about 20$) for cheap.

Honestly, you could even go DQ77MK, which is microATX and just get a longer case to accommodate the board length. These mobo's go for ~60$ still but they'll need an ATX capable PSU that'll fit in a 1u, such as the Seasonic SS250SU, those I think go for around 60$ or so too.

Check this out: Foxconn H61S LGA1155 Mini-ITX mITX Motherboard Intel Core i7-3770S 16GB RAM | eBay

I'd swap the 3770S for a T low power proc for heat sake but you get MITX, so you save on the case, and it uses ATX so that seasonic will work. Just get another NIC card for LAN or WAN.

The case was about 90$ shipped, but a case for matx will be about ~120$ shipped
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
emeianoite said:
you know what, I figured the same, but building out a proper 1u router for me was worth it. I picked up my DQ77KB for 75$, I know they're more expensive now but hey... you can still get the ram and 3470T (low power and about 20$) for cheap.

Honestly, you could even go DQ77MK, which is microATX and just get a longer case to accommodate the board length. These mobo's go for ~60$ still but they'll need an ATX capable PSU that'll fit in a 1u, such as the Seasonic SS250SU, those I think go for around 60$ or so too.

The case was about 90$ shipped, but a case for matx will be about ~120$ shipped
Click to expand...
I'm probably mounting this on a self on my wall so I want something small. I'm taking a trip with the wife and its looking like its gonna be $$$ so when I get back, depending on damages I'll make a decision but I'm leaning towards that i7 unit. I already have a 16GB DDR4 kit laying around an a spare 480GB SSD so I don't need to buy anything else :D
 
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#8 ·
StAndrew said:
I'm probably mounting this on a self on my wall so I want something small. I'm taking a trip with the wife and its looking like its gonna be $$$ so when I get back, depending on damages I'll make a decision but I'm leaning towards that i7 unit. I already have a 16GB DDR4 kit laying around an a spare 480GB SSD so I don't need to buy anything else :D
Click to expand...
I updated my post with new info.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
emeianoite said:
there's an audible difference, so they are louder, and slightly heavier but it's honestly not an issue... I also have an 60% keyboard with optical red switches, click clack is normal for me.

I knew I recognized your name, you're the guy asking about the pfsense.

Good **** dude, if you ever want to talk about setups on discord or whatever, hit me up
Click to expand...
So this video really helped me

Best Mouse Switches To Use When You Replace | Kailh GM 8.0 Vs 4.0 Red, GM2.0 Teal etc - YouTube

I think I'm leaning towards the reds.
 
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#12 ·
#13 ·
Technically I'm dallying the Xtrfy M4 corded and the switches on that thing is heavy as hell.
Says it uses the Omron 20M(OF).

Should try it out.
 
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#14 ·
Rei86 said:
Technically I'm dallying the Xtrfy M4 corded and the switches on that thing is heavy as hell.
Says it uses the Omron 20M(OF).

Should try it out.
Click to expand...
heavy switches are often times better switches when it comes to omron. We use those things in painball guns so they are pretty durable, 80g-150g weights take abuse.


Jinesh.sethia said:
Probably the same as the hero. the main ones are D2FC-F-K 50m. the 2 on the left side D2FC- F-7N. The profile one is a kailh one. The D2fc-f-k are just crap. My hero has after few months of light use already problems with the double clicking...
Click to expand...
No surprise there bud, buy the switch, and take the mouse to a TV repair shop to get it replaced. You'll be in about 35$ dollars for a better mouse.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Installed the reds. Much better. Cleaner, crisper, and heavier clicks. I didn't mind the original switches too much but they were just too light for me.
 
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#17 ·
Just bought a new Logitech G502 X Gaming Mouse to see how it compares to the older sibling.

Just thought, maybe see how they have progressed with their current range of switches and scroll wheels. YOU always have to see up close and personal how a company develops its Mice, otherwise you remain forever as a witness to history taking place.

You need to grab these models with gusto and see how it handles. I tried to ignore Logitech, BUT they still remain huge in this field. Pity I don't have the Razer infliction, to keep on buying their hardware with every single new release.

Just can't stand Synapse in any way, still remains the major flaw for Razer Corp(se).
 
#18 · (Edited)
Yep, the G502 X has arrived, and sure enough have used it.

The scroll wheel is pure JUNK. They removed the metal part of its design, thus making it a light plastic wheel, the problem with that it no longer scrolls through acres of Web Pages any more :poop: .

Instead, it only free-scrolls down or across for only a 3rd of the page. Thus forcing you to continually keep scrolling it with your finger. The old metal scroll wheel, needed to be touched just once, and it would keep on scrolling - forever on its own accord. Also, the use of the ratched scroll wheel mechanism is thoroughly atrocious, beyond words of extreme hatred and depravity.

Instead of trying to sound like a real scroll wheel, it acts like a loose spanner on a broken wheel well. Just making some horrible noise, as you try to scroll down any web page. So you are forced to use their so-called "Free Scroll" :poop: . This looks like a failed Uni design from a bottom of the class student here, they failed their diploma so were hired by Logitech to produce this abortion version of their G502 model (n) (n) (n) (n) .

So yet again, Logitech fails to deliver a true FREE scroll wheel, which really depresses me. Wasted money on another Logitech product, the meaning of Life in a Convict Hellhole :cautious: .
 
#19 ·
I got the MX518 Legendary and it had very light switches. The scroll wheel and side buttons were mushy. There was about a millimeter of play on the side buttons. Left and right click uses: D2FC-F-7N(G1). Middle and side buttons were HiMAKE with no part numbers.

I replaced the Left click, right click, forward and back buttons with D2FC-F-K(50M), and I swapped the middle click with the original left click switch. The K's was too hard to push for the middle click.

I used the same switches on my G400 when the left click stopped working. I wish they would make mice with sockets so we can swap switches without soldering.
 
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