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Paizuri Amalgamation

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am planning on getting an AMD Ryzen 7000 series chip and applying either PTM7950 or PCM-1 on it. I've now realised a potential dilemma that I might be facing due to the rook shape of the Ryzen 7000 series;
Font Rectangle Gadget Circuit component Electronic component


I could just cut a square shape (matching the IHS dimensions) and leave it at that but I feel it will keep me up at night thinking about how I could just spend a good chunk of time trimming it down to the correct shape.

Also, does it matter if the PTM7950/PCM-1 drips over to those silver square things on the side and bottom of the CPU?

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
No reason to cut the square any larger than this:
Image


Of course, some overhang isn't going to hurt either. The silver square things are surface mount capacitors for power filtering. You don't want anything conductive on them, but the TIMs in question aren't conductive.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
No reason to cut the square any larger than this:
Image


Of course, some overhang isn't going to hurt either. The silver square things are surface mount capacitors for power filtering. You don't want anything conductive on them, but the TIMs in question aren't conductive.
Oh sweet. That makes it a lot simpler. So the protruding corners, sides, and tops don't need to be covered?
 
So the protruding corners, sides, and tops don't need to be covered?
They aren't anywhere near any heat producing components and coupling them to the cooler will be a negligible contribution to cooling performance.

It doesn't. You could however also use sometihng like this Amazon.com: Thermal Grizzly AMD Ryzen 7000 CPU Guard : Electronics
That looked interesting for setups not using the stock ILM, until I saw they used adhesive on it. Would be much more useful, IMO, if it was just a gasket.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
It doesn't. You could however also use sometihng like this Amazon.com: Thermal Grizzly AMD Ryzen 7000 CPU Guard : Electronics
Interesting product. Might use them in a different build down the line.


They aren't anywhere near any heat producing components and coupling them to the cooler will be a negligible contribution to cooling performance.
Fair enough. I am glad to know that I won't have to spend some unknown excruciating amount of time trying to trim the protruding bits.
 
I tried this on my laptop. Didn't work really well for me. People advertised it as the next best thing to sliced bread. Didn't decrease my temps at all. MX-2 was crap on my laptop but MX-6 does wonders. The high viscosity of the MX-6 really does the trick to prevent pump out...hopefully it'll last... just sharing my experience since I wasted $18 on the stuff from Amazon...
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I tried this on my laptop. Didn't work really well for me. People advertised it as the next best thing to sliced bread. Didn't decrease my temps at all. MX-2 was crap on my laptop but MX-6 does wonders. The high viscosity of the MX-6 really does the trick to prevent pump out...hopefully it'll last... just sharing my experience since I wasted $18 on the stuff from Amazon...
Are you talking about the CPU guard or the PTM7950/PCM-1?
 
I tried this on my laptop. Didn't work really well for me. People advertised it as the next best thing to sliced bread. Didn't decrease my temps at all. MX-2 was crap on my laptop but MX-6 does wonders. The high viscosity of the MX-6 really does the trick to prevent pump out...hopefully it'll last... just sharing my experience since I wasted $18 on the stuff from Amazon...
I can assure you something went wrong in the process.

Not to discredit your efforts but I have tried it on 5 laptops so far and its been amazing and I have reports from 10s of users that I am 100% sure of.

PTM works wonders on bare die.


Are you talking about the CPU guard or the PTM7950/PCM-1?
PCM has some weird reports right now, some report amazing temps and some much worse than PTM.
if you will run an AIO on your CPU I won't recommend it as it needs high temps to cure.
 
I can assure you something went wrong in the process.

Not to discredit your efforts but I have tried it on 5 laptops so far and its been amazing and I have reports from 10s of users that I am 100% sure of.

PTM works wonders on bare die.



PCM has some weird reports right now, some report amazing temps and some much worse than PTM.
if you will run an AIO on your CPU I won't recommend it as it needs high temps to cure.
I also have to think that all laptop cooling solutions are not created equal. My work laptop has a single heat pipe cooling an 8850H and MX130 with a single blower fan. My personal laptop has 7 heat pipes and 3 fans for a 9750H and a 2080 mobile. I'll let you guess which one isn't pegged at the throttling temp any time it's doing anything, regardless of thermal interface. I'm sure laptop cooling comes in any number of variations between and beyond those two. Putting a better thermal interface on an overburdened cooler may not make any difference at all depending on system spec.
 
@Paizuri Amalgamation
I've used this on a 5950X and 7900X
Also was used on an RX 6900XT.

Its actually good, if you get the right one - and have the pressure.
There are two in the market , one with translucent foil one with blue UV foil

The blue foil one is 250microns, the transparent is 200 microns
Both require ~30 psi of pressure , it translates around to "tighten it as much as you can" :D

Its melting point is ~40° , which is not very uncommon even on custom loops - given 7000 series fullboosts to 95°.
There is no curetime, but there is a liquify time - at least the first 2-3 heat cycles till it fills the cracks. Later tighten it bit more
Product Rectangle Font Gadget Technology

This is how much you want to cut.
To get this out:
Computer Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Computer hardware
Sleeve Circuit component Electronic component Jewellery Audio equipment

And with a frame:
Circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic engineering Font Electronic component
Electric blue Engineering Font Metal Electrical wiring

// All those are Hi-Res pictures ~ you may need to edit the link
In both examples, pressure is key ~ on this CPU (we did bin 5 7xxx series CPUs)
It had a solder bump, others were more flat.

For the best result - you want to have both surfaces flat
But Ryzen IHS is soft and corrects due to pressure.
Ah right , 2nd looks better and one can actually read the stamped text ~ as i lapped it
Seems like the CPU needed too.
Any case,
thats should be illustrative of what sort of pressure is required for it.

If you want to buy it https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=687444573411
Use superbuy.com or a similar proxy site.
It has an "unused" expire date, soo better use a known seller.
Grey Font Motor vehicle Gas Automotive exterior
Rectangle Font Number Electric blue Label

I bought a 200mm sheet, to make it worth the time & shipping cost. Its a single use and application is not easy.

EDIT:
We tested it with a 75W 7800X3D
180W 7900X, couple
7950X and 5950X ~ 220W
6950XT ~ 450W

Its fine.
Bit better than paste, slightly worse than Galium
A better idea might be lapping of both surfaces with 600 & 1200 grit ~ then polish with Flitz Paste
And buy a kryosheet from Roman (der8auer)
Above 100 microns , which is pretty much every CPU - PTM is better than kryosheet.
Read more , here
 
@Paizuri Amalgamation
I've used this on a 5950X and 7900X
Also was used on an RX 6900XT.

Its actually good, if you get the right one - and have the pressure.
There are two in the market , one with translucent foil one with blue UV foil

The blue foil one is 250microns, the transparent is 200 microns
Both require ~30 psi of pressure , it translates around to "tighten it as much as you can" :D

Its melting point is ~40° , which is not very uncommon even on custom loops - given 7000 series fullboosts to 95°.
There is no curetime, but there is a liquify time - at least the first 2-3 heat cycles till it fills the cracks. Later tighten it bit more
View attachment 2629933
This is how much you want to cut.
To get this out:
View attachment 2629935 View attachment 2629936
And with a frame:
View attachment 2629940 View attachment 2629939
// All those are Hi-Res pictures ~ you may need to edit the link
In both examples, pressure is key ~ on this CPU (we did bin 5 7xxx series CPUs)
It had a solder bump, others were more flat.

For the best result - you want to have both surfaces flat
But Ryzen IHS is soft and corrects due to pressure.
Ah right , 2nd looks better and one can actually read the stamped text ~ as i lapped it
Seems like the CPU needed too.
Any case,
thats should be illustrative of what sort of pressure is required for it.

If you want to buy it https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=687444573411
Use superbuy.com or a similar proxy site.
It has an "unused" expire date, soo better use a known seller.
View attachment 2629937 View attachment 2629938
I bought a 200mm sheet, to make it worth the time & shipping cost. Its a single use and application is not easy.

EDIT:
We tested it with a 75W 7800X3D
180W 7900X, couple
7950X and 5950X ~ 220W
6950XT ~ 450W

Its fine.
Bit better than paste, slightly worse than Galium
A better idea might be lapping of both surfaces with 600 & 1200 grit ~ then polish with Flitz Paste
And buy a kryosheet from Roman (der8auer)
Above 100 microns , which is pretty much every CPU - PTM is better than kryosheet.
Read more , here
Veii comes in clutch like always

Thanks for the info
 
  • Wow
Reactions: Veii
Discussion starter · #14 ·
@Paizuri Amalgamation
I've used this on a 5950X and 7900X
Also was used on an RX 6900XT.

Its actually good, if you get the right one - and have the pressure.
There are two in the market , one with translucent foil one with blue UV foil

The blue foil one is 250microns, the transparent is 200 microns
Both require ~30 psi of pressure , it translates around to "tighten it as much as you can" :D

Its melting point is ~40° , which is not very uncommon even on custom loops - given 7000 series fullboosts to 95°.
There is no curetime, but there is a liquify time - at least the first 2-3 heat cycles till it fills the cracks. Later tighten it bit more
View attachment 2629933
This is how much you want to cut.
To get this out:
View attachment 2629935 View attachment 2629936
And with a frame:
View attachment 2629940 View attachment 2629939
// All those are Hi-Res pictures ~ you may need to edit the link
In both examples, pressure is key ~ on this CPU (we did bin 5 7xxx series CPUs)
It had a solder bump, others were more flat.

For the best result - you want to have both surfaces flat
But Ryzen IHS is soft and corrects due to pressure.
Ah right , 2nd looks better and one can actually read the stamped text ~ as i lapped it
Seems like the CPU needed too.
Any case,
thats should be illustrative of what sort of pressure is required for it.

If you want to buy it https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=687444573411
Use superbuy.com or a similar proxy site.
It has an "unused" expire date, soo better use a known seller.
View attachment 2629937 View attachment 2629938
I bought a 200mm sheet, to make it worth the time & shipping cost. Its a single use and application is not easy.

EDIT:
We tested it with a 75W 7800X3D
180W 7900X, couple
7950X and 5950X ~ 220W
6950XT ~ 450W

Its fine.
Bit better than paste, slightly worse than Galium
A better idea might be lapping of both surfaces with 600 & 1200 grit ~ then polish with Flitz Paste
And buy a kryosheet from Roman (der8auer)
Above 100 microns , which is pretty much every CPU - PTM is better than kryosheet.
Read more , here
Thank you very much for the detailed response. I'll be sure to come back to this post when I eventually start my build later this year.
 
Thank you very much for the detailed response. I'll be sure to come back to this post when I eventually start my build later this year.
We?, have had reports of overtighten pressure issues on some ASRock Taichi boards
But also had no issues on "my" Taichi Carrara boards and no issues on the Gene ~ when it comes to mounting pressure.

Keep this variable in mind :)
You may need to use a lot of pressure for PTM to work correctly.
That and its slightly difficult * application are its downsides.
* the seller/company you get it from, needs to supply you with small tapes a guitar pick and some screwdriver sets (last being optional)
Rectangle Font Technology Electric blue Pattern
Product Rectangle Font Material property Screenshot

It wasn't especially cheap, but also not really that expensive.
~52 USD , for a sheet of 10+ applications. Probably more

Shipping was 12-15 bucks
But we had to pay 25% EU import VAT ~ we did pay based on weight, but usually its based on invoice.
Some countries might not have to at all. German speaking countries are just a bit ... unhappy about CN imports.
Delay was around 2 weeks and team itself lowered product value
and later returned credits after package was cheaper than estimated

PTMs positives are,
~ Cleaner application & easier to clean as unused parts dry-out
~ Better against uneven surfaces up to 200 microns range. Coolers are usually in the ~100 microns uneven.
~ Better than paste, but has downsides.
~ Longer no-dryout time. As thermal-dryout is included in the phasechange properties.
~ Much lower thermal resistance above 100microns. But also again with usability and price downsides.

Propper Graphene didn't exist at my time of need.
But those days, i'd rather lap both surfaces and use a graphene pad. Because it becomes re'usable.
As for Warranty upkeep, i think PTM method is still one of the best options.
Probably tho, wouldnt use it on a bare die due to the pressure required.
But also probably this variable offsets, given cooling solutions for notebooks aren't really made flat.
Soo its still beneficial to use it with lower pressure. Given height distance is still too big for a graphene pad.
 
Curious, I'm about to use one of these graphene Kryosheets for the first time and just curious.

Is it safe to use a graphene kryosheet with one of these secure frames?

The graphene is conductive, right? Am I going to fry my machine if the graphene touches that secure frame?

I seen someone earlier in the thread mention you don't want anything conductive on those outer squares too.
 
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