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6700K Delid Results (Conductonaut and Kryonaut) w/ Pictures

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5.4K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  white owl  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone,

I know the 6700K is no longer a new CPU, but for those interested in delidding their i7-6700K or would like pictures for reference, I figured I'd post my results.
Pre-warning... I use 'Conductonaut' and 'Liquid Metal' interchangeably in this thread.

To start off with, I used:
* Rockit 88 Delid/Relid Tool (For delidding and relidding)
* Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut (For between CPU die and IHS)
* Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (For resealing IHS to CPU PCB)
* Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (For between IHS and HSF)

Some relevant system information:
* 6700K at 4.4GHz (1.305V)
* G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series DDR4 3000 (F4-3000C15D-16GVR) at XMP (3000MHz (1.35V))
* Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO w/ additional fan (Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 (Same fan that comes with HSF)) in push/pull configuration

This was my first delid and first time playing with Liquid Metal of any brand. I actually never installed the CPU after the first application of Conductonaut because I was paranoid that I used too little / too much or if the area of the inside of the IHS I applied Conductonaut to was near the pins to the upper-right of the die. This is why you see some discoloration on the inside of the IHS (cleaned up the existing Conductonaut the best I could with isopropyl alcohol but Liquid Metal doesn't seem to clean up easy off the IHS. This was also my first time using anything but the pea method for applying thermal grease between the IHS and HSF. I opted for the spread method of the Kryonaut instead of the X (both methods are approved by Thermal Grizzly)... what a PITA.

Pictures of the prepped CPU die, the prepped IHS (inside) before applying RTV silicone, the prepped IHS (outside), and a comparison of before (left - after a 24-hour stress-test to validate my OC) and after are attached.

To summarize the comparison picture (my results seem to fall in line with what most experience (-15 to -20)... so I have no complaints):
CPU: -18
Core #1: -21
Core #2: -19
Core #3: -20
Core #4: -17

The ONLY question I have is... HOW imperative is it that water doesn't touch the Liquid Metal? While applying RTV silicone to the IHS for resealing to the CPU PCB, I accidentally dropped it in the sink. It fell on the top of it first, bounced, and landed inside facing down where the sink contours. SOME water touched the outside edge and even less touched the Conductonaut . I used a napkin to dry the water off the outside edge and dabbed the moisture off the liquid metal where it made contact. I then took the q-tip that had some Conductonaut still on it and quickly went over the area I had applied Conductonaut so that it was even. All visible moisture was removed and the remaining Conductonaut had the same consistency it had before dropping the IHS. However, I read that gallium can oxidize when introduced to moisture (albeit it takes a long time). I'm 99% sure there was no moisture leftover, but my curiosity is getting the best of me.
 

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#2 ·
LM isn't just Gallium, there are other metals in there to make it a more suitable TIM. I can't imagine anyone has ever tested for this so it's hard to say what the long term effects might be.
Personally I'd just wipe it off then clean with alcohol and start over to be safe but that's just me. I'm sure it's fine though.
You can tell if you use too much by holding it vertically, the excess will roll down. You'd know if you used too little because there would be exposed die, when I get done with mine it looks like square metal puddle.


The water (if any is still there) would evaporate and escape (assuming you didn't seal around the entire IHS).
 
#4 ·
I read to use just enough that you can't see the die and not so much that there's any pools that have a ripple effect when going over them. The die of the 6700k is so shiny and is virtually the same color as the liquid metal, but everything is running fine. I did use black RTV silicone around the entire IHS though... :worriedsm
 
#3 ·
Not certain about the moisture. If you left a breather hole when you applied the RTV, any moisture should evaporate rather quickly.

Did your power requirements drop, or just temps?
 
#5 ·
Yeeeaaah, I didn't... :worriedsm

Just temperatures. Temperature wasn't a bottleneck for my overclock... I just didn't want to go over 1.35V (setting in the BIOS, not actual) and I couldn't achieve 4.5GHz at 1.35V or less (with XMP enabled that is).
 
#6 ·
What I've learned about liquid metals:

Conductonaut is like Coolaboratory Liquid Pro, it's more of a pure Gallinstan alloy, with a few extra metals mixed in to drop it's melt point. Liquid Ultra adds in some stuff to slow the oxidization down, and to provide a more stable bond. So the trade offs are Conductonaut and Liquid Pro have a higher max thermal transfer, but they are both more aggressive so they'll 'set', which is why you'll see a few people think either have dried out. The other downside to them when used between an IHS and cooler, is that they'll attack/alloy to unplated copper much quicker. The result being a black layer that forms, and a performance drop after 3 or so months. If you have this happen, you clean off the liquid metal, and reinstall, and it should be good for quite a while.

Gallinstan oxidizes basically instantly, that glassy shine it gets is the surface oxidizing. As long as you got the water off and didn't let it mix into the LM, it's fine.

As for bond lines, using 'Krazy Glue'(beware some of them do attack the substrate) in the corners, is a much better option, as it'll allow for a much closer mating of the core to the IHS. Apply light pressure to the IHS while either silicone or krazy glue sets to get the best 'mount'. You can also go dry mount and not worry about gluing it back on.

A note: I'm not a fan of ThermalGrizzly, because I've not had any luck getting an MSDS out of them for anything. I've read that other people have asked and TG refuses or ignores the requests.
 
#7 ·
You sealed it up 100%? That's weird, you a lot of the temp drop from removing the gap that it created in the first place. Removing the Intel thermal insulation helps too.


If you must seal one up RTV is fine as long as you apply it thin (only on the corners) and use the socket retainer thing to squish it before it hardens. Not sure what the super glue thing is about TBH, I'd be worried about delidding it again and having pieces of the PCB stuck to the IHS.
 
#12 ·
The stock IHS installations I've seen leave an area unglued. I assume it's to accommodate gas expansion/contraction due to CPU temps. Or perhaps it's merely a cost-saving measure?
Weird, all the ones I've seen were sealed all the way around from the factory including the OP's and my own.
That is odd.
Last 2 were i7-6700k and i7-7700k. Both had a 1/8" gap on one side. Didn't note factories of origin.

Haven't de-lidded the 8086. I would if I knew it would drop voltage reqs @ 5.3GHz.
Kinda kicking myself for not leaving a gap now... never thought about leaving a hole to let any moisture build-up evaporate. My 6700K DID have a gap (as you can see in the attached picture), and I've seen it in some delidding videos as well.

As far as the sealing and it's affect on temperatures, I used a VERY thin amount of black RTV silicone and spread it with my fingers, definitely less than what comes from Intel... because like you mentioned, I read that the gap this causes between the PCB and the CPU die increases heat. It's so thin in areas that maybe, just maybe, there's still a slight hole where moisture can evaporate out of. I used the Rockit 88 relidding attachment though so there was definitely pressure from the IHS onto the CPU die to make sure it sealed with minimal gap.
 

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#8 ·
The stock IHS installations I've seen leave an area unglued. I assume it's to accommodate gas expansion/contraction due to CPU temps. Or perhaps it's merely a cost-saving measure?
 
#9 ·
Weird, all the ones I've seen were sealed all the way around from the factory including the OP's and my own.
 
#10 ·
That is odd.
Last 2 were i7-6700k and i7-7700k. Both had a 1/8" gap on one side. Didn't note factories of origin.

Haven't de-lidded the 8086. I would if I knew it would drop voltage reqs @ 5.3GHz.
 
#11 ·
It will, I'm not guaranteeing 5.3 but more heat means more resistance, if you've ever heard of "leakage" that's what's being referred to. If you knock 20c off the core temps you'll lower the voltage required for stability in most cases. I wasn't able to get past 4.5Ghz with reasonable voltage on my 4690k until I delidded it.
 
#14 ·
I'll be damned, I couldn't see it in the original pics. Maybe mine did too?
Just drill an air hole. ;)