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i5/i7 LGA 1156 overclocking guide (to 4GHz~)

197K views 346 replies 118 participants last post by  ffejrxx  
#1 ·
This guide will show you how to overclock your LGA-1156 processor. Please note you must know how to operate your BIOS easily. If you don't know what that is, or how to find your overclocking section, google it, search threads here, or create a thread @ overclock.net.

Terms

First off, you will need to know these terms:

-VCore is your processor core voltage. Increasing this will supply your cores the power they need to operate at the frequencies you overclocked them to.

-VTT (also known as QPI/DRAM) is your processors IMC voltage (Integrated memory controller) Increasing this will supply the power needed for the IMC to operate at higher frequencies.

-BCLK is your base clock. Increasing your base clock usually increases your CPU core clocks, your memory and a few other clocks. BCLK is also known as base clock, Bclock, and CPU Frequency setting (on evga boards)

-Multiplier is just a multiplier that determines the clock speed for whatever it is tied to. For example, your CPU multiplier determines what your CPU core clock speed is using this formula: Base clock * multiplier

-vPLL or PLL is your clock generators voltage. You will learn this is very important soon.

-vPCH is your Platform Controllers Hub's voltage. this isn't very important most of the time, however.

-vDIMM is your RAM's voltage. You usually want to keep this near what the ram is specified for. If you've got a 1.65 volt kit, then you should only go to about 1.68 or so when overclocking. Any higher and the ram might not work. Although you shouldn't really need to change it from 1.65 anyway.

-PCI-E clock is your PCI-E bus's clock. Sometimes when overclocking, increasing the PCI-E clock can help with stability.

I will mention other terms in the guide.

Overclocking

First off, you should get used to your motherboard BIOS's overclocking section. To find this, usually look for Frequency/voltage control, or something that lets you change voltages. (just look around) Some motherboards may use RAM multipliers, some may use ram ratios. Some may have voltages called different things. Right now, i do not quite know every BIOS's alias for the settings, so if you have a question about that, just ask.

Before we start, keep this in mind: NOT ALL CHIPS ARE CREATED EQUALLY. You cannot expect every chip to hit 4GHz or whatever clock. There is NO formula to figure this out. Only way to find out is just try yourself. We can't guess how high it is going to go.

Lets get started.

We'll jump right to 4Ghz. To get to 4GHz, set your base clock to 191 and your multiplier to x21. I'm going to be using my EVGA P55 FTW for this. In the BIOS, BCLK is named "CPU frequency setting". CPU Multiplier is named "CPU multiplier setting".

Next we will set the voltages. Please note that these voltages may or may not work with your processor. If your system does not start after applying these settings, raise CPU Vcore. if it won't boot after 1.4, then put it back to 1.35 or whatever you used and raise CPU VTT. Then CPU PLL, and then possibly vDIMM.

For Core i5 Set your voltages to:
-CPU Vcore @ 1.35
-CPU VTT @ 1.225 or whatever it takes for your ram to be stable.
-CPU PLL @ 1.800 or if not stable, raise higher

For Core i7 8XX set your voltages to:
-CPU Vcore @ 1.42 (please read warning at the bottom)
-CPU VTT @ 1.225 or whatever it takes for your ram to be stable.
-CPU PLL @ 1.90-2.0

Next, go into your BIOS's CPU configuration menu. Disable these features:
1. Speedstep (EIST) and Turbo Mode
2. C1E
3. C-STATES

After that, enter your BIOS's Memory Configuration menu. Make sure your ram is operating near its stock speeds. @ 191 Base clock, it is usually operating a bit slower than its stock speeds. Make sure all of your RAM's timings are at what they are specified for by your vendor. If you have not done already, make sure your vDIMM (ram voltage) is set to what your RAM is specified for.

Now you're done. look for "save settings and exit" or anything like that and press enter. Your computer will shut down, and hopefully start up normally. Start windows as usual.

If you get a blue screen, shuts down without warning, or windows hangs at any point, just restart your computer and go back into the BIOS and follow the instructions I mentioned above the voltage settings.

Once logged in, download these applications:
CPU-Z http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php
Prime95 http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/
LinX http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=201670
Realtemp beta http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/3/...alTempBeta.zip

Open CPU-Z to monitor your overclock frequencies + CPU vcore. Press validate so you can prove/show that you got those clocks. Keep CPU-Z open along with the other programs.

Next open realtemp beta. (realtemp.exe not realtempgt.exe). You will use this to monitor your temperatures. You want your core temperatures to stay under 85c. Remember: Idle temps are useless. They are very inaccurate.

Stress Testing


Stress testing option 1:


open LinX and run about 50 runs using all of your memory. (e.g. 4GB).

When done, open Prime95 and run 8-12 hours of each test. (blend/large FFT/small FFT) to ensure stability.

Stress testing option 2 (much faster);
open linx and run 10-20 runs using all of your memory (e.g. 4GB)

Once done, open prime95 and run about 4-6 hours of blend test, and a hour of large FTT and small FTT (if you want)

Monitor temperatures when running prime95 and Linx, as they will make your CPU very hot most of the time. Again, stay under 85c. If it is over 85c, then tone down your overclock, make sure your cooler is properly seated + TIM is applied right or buy a new cooling solution. Remember higher temps will bring instability. Past 85C or so, it won't be stable, and it will throttle itself down (dropping the multiplier/voltage a few notches). There isn't really a risk when you go above 80c.

If everything went well, give yourself a pat on the back. Run some benchmarks, compare your results to stock clocks, play a few games, whatever! Enjoy your new overclocked experience.

WARNINGS:
Users with the Foxconn 1st Generation LGA-1156 sockets: You might damage your processor by using too high core voltages. Even if it says extreme overclockers, there is still a risk of your processor/socket getting damaged.
To check what socket you have, just look on the socket itself. You may have a LOTES or another kind of socket. If you don't have a foxconn socket, then don't worry.

Update 1: After reading a bit, it appears this is about the current, not voltage. I'm no electrician.... but if you need help, create a new thread or ask here.

http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=3661

Hope I helped!
fox
 
#3 ·
Excellent. I see that you have quickly adapted to working with 1156. Your whole style of writing and thought process has also improved.

Does Cpu Vtt/QPI-DRAM apply to the whole Uncore, Cache, etc., like 775 and 1366?

I also think that any guide can use at least a passing reference to how electrical resistance is lowered with dropping temperature. While this is of course advantageous, as it's power to improve overclocks is tremendous, this adds further potential confabulation to the comparison of vCore etc. between rigs. Check out Ohm's law.

Electricity is like water in a pipe:

Voltage (Volts) = pressure of the water (psi)

Resistance (Ohms) = is length, cross section, of pipe

Amperage/ Current (Amps) = flow of water (liters or gallons per minute or hour)

This is somewhat reductive, but I find it a useful device.

+rep

Edit: also, you could mention the specific boards with the sockets. I saw what looked like a pretty complete list in the OP of the Asrock/Asus club in the mobo section

On second thought, why add bulk in the form of things which are just academic..
 
#4 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by Clockadile Dundee View Post
Excellent. I see that you have quickly adapted to working with 1156. Your whole style of writing and thought process has also improved.

Does Cpu Vtt/QPI-DRAM apply to the whole Uncore, Cache, etc., like 775 and 1366?

I also think that any guide can use at least a passing reference to how electrical resistance is lowered with dropping temperature. While this is of course advantageous, as it's power to improve overclocks is tremendous, this adds further potential confabulation to the comparison of vCore etc. between rigs. Check out Ohm's law.

Electricity is like water in a pipe:

Voltage (Volts) = pressure of the water (psi)

Resistance (Ohms) = is length, cross section, of pipe

Amperage/ Current (Amps) = flow of water (liters or gallons per minute or hour)

This is somewhat reductive, but I find it a useful device.

+rep

Edit: also, you could mention the specific boards with the sockets. I saw what looked like a pretty complete list in the OP of the Asrock/Asus club in the mobo section

On second thought, why add bulk in the form of things which are just academic..
Image

thanks, I'll put something about temperatures and the sockets.

Anyway, I'm not sure if VTT (QPI/DRAM) voltage applies to all of that stuff, I'll have to look through some spreadsheets.

+rep

edit:
hmm can't find the list of boards with that socket. I do know that EVGA and a few other guys are switching to all lotes and other socket manufacturers for their higher end boards (e.g. P55 FTW and others).

edit2:

I kept it simple; "higher temps brings instability". I'll read up on Ohm's law. I'm no electrician, but I'm interested in this stuff.
Image


Ugh I wish wordpress was as easy to edit as this thread. (I've got this up on my site that runs wordpress).. so difficult.

Anyway, woo, almost 100 rep! (2 flames)
 
#11 ·
thanks guys. I've been talking to the creator of realtemp (i think?) on XS. I'm testing the betas. The new realtemp beta (see above for older link) correctly reads LGA-1156 processors clocks and names (no 234567x21 anymore!)

Image


also, there is a new video card control panel that lets you see the temperatures, drivers, PCI-E link width, and a few other things.

Image
 
#16 ·
What is the max safe voltage for CPU PLL? I currently have mine at 1.9 or 1.925 or somewhere around there. Looks like you have already experimented a bit with this since you listed a range of 1.9-2.0v in the 1st post. Also, what is the limit for VTT? I have that set to 1.25v right now.

So far I am P95 stable at 205x20 for 4.110ghz at 1.39375v and VDIMM at 1.53v. Topped out at 71C under load.
 
#18 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by wickedout View Post
Been working on my overclocking. Flashed my bios and my temps have dropped big time. Well I have my case open while testing. Did some clean up on my rig as well. Cleaned all my fans and dust filters.

This rig is rock solid so far. Only had for a month. Damn I'm so happy with it.
Image

Wow, those temps look great.
I am getting ready to buy the i5, and I already have the arctic 7 cooler, and was thinking of upgrading, but I wont now if you are getting good temps with that cooler.
 
#19 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
Wow, those temps look great.
I am getting ready to buy the i5, and I already have the arctic 7 cooler, and was thinking of upgrading, but I wont now if you are getting good temps with that cooler.
Good call. The AC 7 is a decent cooler for the money.

The only thing is if you want to hit the 4.0Ghz mark you'll need a better cooler.

I'm happy with my current settings. This rig is hella fast. I really see no reason to go any higher.
 
#20 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by wickedout View Post
Good call. The AC 7 is a decent cooler for the money.

The only thing is if you want to hit the 4.0Ghz you'll need a better cooler.

I'm happy with my current settings. This rig is hella fast. I really see no reason to go any higher.
No reason to hit 4 except for bragging rights
Image
 
#23 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by wickedout View Post
Have you picked out a mobo yet? Which one are you looking at?
For some reason I have my eyes on the Asus Sabertooth.
But I cant find much info on it with regards to overclocking.
This board is supposed to be made with a special coating on its parts to help with heat.

Then I have the..
Asus P7P55D
Gig UD4P or UD5
EVGA FTW (this one is a few bucks more expensive)
I do like the Asus Maximus, but that is way expensive.

I see you got an MSI. I have always stayed away from MSI due to two bad experiences with them. But that was over 5 years ago.
 
#24 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by lardo5150 View Post
For some reason I have my eyes on the Asus Sabertooth.
But I cant find much info on it with regards to overclocking.
This board is supposed to be made with a special coating on its parts to help with heat.

Then I have the..
Asus P7P55D
Gig UD4P or UD5
EVGA FTW (this one is a few bucks more expensive)

I see you got an MSI. I have always stayed away from MSI due to two bad experiences with them. But that was over 5 years ago.
If I was you I'd get the Gig UD5. That mobo is pretty sweet!

I felt the same way towards MSI as well. I've been through so many boards and as of right now this MSI board is off the hook. It was a bit expensive but it has so many features I don't know what to do with. It came down to the ASUS Maximus III Formula and MSI GD-80. Also it gets great reviews so that's another reason I picked it up.
 
#25 ·
Quote:

Originally Posted by wickedout View Post
If I was you I'd get the Gig UD5. That mobo is pretty sweet!

I felt the same way towards MSI as well. I've been through so many boards and as of right now this MSI board is off the hook. It was a bit expensive but it has so many features I don't know what to do with. It came down to the ASUS Maximus III Formula and MSI GD-80. Also it gets great reviews so that's another reason I picked it up.
THat board is ranked 3rd on newegg and is in my price range.
I am going to have to add that to my list.

(as you can see, I have OCD when it comes to researching this stuff)