Thanks for sharing! I am sure those from the red mod camp would find this useful as well.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hogesyx

Thanks for sharing! I am sure those from the red mod camp would find this useful as well.

Agreed, though they would probably be best served using a shim instead of cutting that much material

 

Where was this 2 weeks a go when I tried beating one apart

Nice work

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by grunion

Where was this 2 weeks a go when I tried beating one apart

Nice work

Where was this before I decided not to use my supremacy and ended up buying a koolance block that now isn't even available. I'd rather have 2 of these that look like this than 1 large and 1 small koolance block.

As for adding heatsinks for the memory...

People who talk about water channels over the VRM, memory this that and now heatsinks over the memory are forgetting one important thing.

It is a huge block of metal doesn't matter how you cool the block cooling any area is going to reduce the temp of the entire block. Adding heat sinks in the RAM area isn't going to crap for the ram but it will significantly reduce the temperatures of the VRM. So add away!

You could probably use a saw to cut the heat sink into strips and re-solder pieces of it to the plate.

 

Whaat? I read that like 3 times and still cant understand that gibberish.

 

I told my friend about this guide, after I messed mine up with a screwdriver and hammer..

He thought it was a good idea, and said he whould try it.

Today I got this picture from him.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/v4r1.jpg/

I almost cried with laughter XD

But nonetheless the job got done ;D

 

Fantastic guide! I'm one of the few that chopped the plate to be left with covers for both VRM areas. This is a much more practical solution, although the need to make room for air cooler base plates still exists.
Quote:

Originally Posted by tamw

I told my friend about this guide, after I messed mine up with a screwdriver and hammer..

He thought it was a good idea, and said he whould try it.

Today I got this picture from him.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/v4r1.jpg/

I almost cried with laughter XD

But nonetheless the job got done ;D

Haha, what happened to the copper? Did it deform from the heat? It looks like some kind of trapped gas expanded to give it the "popcorn bag" look it has!

 

Yeah, it must be the gas inside.. He probably left it in there for too long or something

 

How long do you think it took for the copper to drop in the oven?

Also was there any indication the solder was weakening before full separation?

Thanks.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redvineal

the need to make room for air cooler base plates still exists.

Haha, what happened to the copper? Did it deform from the heat? It looks like some kind of trapped gas expanded to give it the "popcorn bag" look it has!

How long do you think it took for the copper to drop in the oven?

Also was there any indication the solder was weakening before full separation?

Most air coolers would mount just fine with just a shim

Yes, apologies, I forgot to warn about the possibility of this; the core is made of a folded bit of copper and sometimes a bit of moisture/gas in the middle can expand. If it worries you, just drill it beforehand.

No, good solder has a very narrow melting point so it will go from solid to liquid nearly instantly

 

Last night, I put the cooler in the oven at 400 for an hour, but the copper never dropped on its own. I eventually just took the entire assembly out and tapped the copper from the back side with a hammer before it cooled, and it popped right off! It didn't take much force at all. The solder was obviously melted, but something was keeping it connected. Hopefully that tip can help someone else that would otherwise stare at their oven for hours on end!

Also, I can confirm that the Prolimatech MK-26 fits with no modification/filing. The heatpipes clear the edge of the base aluminum plate by a decent margin. All around a great solution!

As soon as I get back to my camera at home I can post some pics of the end result, if anyone is interested.

Thanks again for the great guide. The end result is extremely clean!

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redvineal

The solder was obviously melted, but something was keeping it connected.

Most likely just vacuum (like a suction cup) this should not be the norm and having it at a slight angle when propped up should prevent this. It should only take about 10 minutes to get the solder to its melting point.

 

That's awesome

Have you considered expanding the gpu loop to include another waterblock over the vrm area *mod of course

) Seems the natural thing to do at this point

 

Great thread! I just posted in the red mod thread about doing something similar to this. What do you think about taking a dremel to the copper heatsink that you removed, to fit around an Asetek CPU block? I'd imagine I would need to buy some thermal adhesive so that it would stay back onto the plate.

Also, what are your VRM1 and VRM2 temperatures?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by cravinmild

That's awesome

Have you considered expanding the gpu loop to include another waterblock over the vrm area *mod of course

) Seems the natural thing to do at this point

Of course, but, this would defeat the purpose of a universal block over a full cover and is wholly overkill for the VRMs. Also would ruin my case aesthetic ATM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thevwu

Great thread! I just posted in the red mod thread about doing something similar to this. What do you think about taking a dremel to the copper heatsink that you removed, to fit around an Asetek CPU block? I'd imagine I would need to buy some thermal adhesive so that it would stay back onto the plate.

Also, what are your VRM1 and VRM2 temperatures?

Attempting to keep the copper core will be far more trouble than it's worth, if you feel you need more heat dissipation, that would be best served by simply sticking some cheap heat sinks onto it, whether by thermal adhesive or soldering as well as adding some direct airflow.

VRM 2 (memory) Is never an issue, never seems to exceed ~65°c. and that is with no direct airflow or additional heat sinking.

VRM1 (core) Stock voltage with no direct airflow would stabilize around 85°c for gaming (Crysis3/BF4) and ~95+°c for stability tests/coin miners adding overclock+75mV would put gaming at 95° and mining out of the question

Adding a 92x25mm fan directly over the VRM1 area (unknown fan, no RPM sense, sorry) allowed me to run the same overclock at rarely more than 65° under gaming and mining at ~80°

 

I wish I knew all this before I bought my Koolance block. Don't get me wrong the Koolance block is awesome but right after I bought it they cut it down and made it smaller to save money. Now if I XFIRE I won't be able to have matching blocks.

I already had a universal block

Which actually brings me to this questions

A friend wants to buy a 290 and buy my universal block. Do you think a EK-WB Supremacy Bridge Edition will work? I am worried about the bridge part of it not clearing everything. However it does look like it should work.

Any ideas?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by givmedew

A friend wants to buy a 290 and buy my universal block. Do you think a EK-WB Supremacy Bridge Edition will work? I am worried about the bridge part of it not clearing everything. However it does look like it should work.

Any ideas?

So sell him your Koolance block instead?

It appears that, yes, the block top will clear the edge of the plate with no additional modification

 

Good job, but i'm afraid overheating gonna kill fried heatpipes or chamber, so you couldn't use it again.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cooling Fan

Good job, but i'm afraid overheating gonna kill fried heatpipes or chamber, so you couldn't use it again.

This is incredibly vague and out of context, what are you referring to?

 

Did you try to use the main unsoldered heatsink after?

 

Would any of the "all in one" watercooler pump combos fit over this?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ized

Would any of the "all in one" watercooler pump combos fit over this?

Order one and find out

http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/138-kraken-g10-gpu-bracket.html



Return it if it doesn't

It would be a lot of help to all the other AIO users if you where the guinne pig that found out if the kraken would work with this "re-use" setup.

Looking at these pictures my guess would be that the kraken bracket will work with this "re-use" guide.




The bracket should work with any pumps that use these finger like things to mount... so like the Corsair H50 might work.

 

Put this in my oven, the heatsink exploded. Copper was inflated, but the fins and everything were split. Had to fish out ~10 pieces with chopsticks. Only took 5 minutes @ 400 degrees F, should I lower the temperature next time?

To clarify, the heat plate itself is fine. Just the heatsink exploded. I was going to throw it away anyway, but it makes cleanup annoying.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by thevwu

Put this in my oven, the heatsink exploded. Copper was inflated, but the fins and everything were split. Had to fish out ~10 pieces with chopsticks. Only took 5 minutes @ 400 degrees F, should I lower the temperature next time?

To clarify, the heat plate itself is fine. Just the heatsink exploded. I was going to throw it away anyway, but it makes cleanup annoying.

This is normal, I should have stated in the original post that mine not doing this was the exception not the norm. 400°F is chosen because most solders melt around 360-380 depending on composition.

 

I really want to do this, but there isn't enough stats about the vrm temps. I plan on installing a MK-26 with 2x D12SH-12 (2200rpm fans) and the front panel fan isn't that far from the card either. Reference cooler is loud, and core runs hot, but vrm temps (especially vrm1) are amazing. Never about 70c with 75% fan at +100mv. If I do this I really want to make sure they those temps don't get worse, because there's is no coming back...