Interested also. Will buy some for testing myself, I think.

 

How long does liquid metal last anyway? Not long enough if you don't buy the latest CPU every season. 5c loss.

 

How long does liquid metal last anyway? Not long enough if you don't buy the latest CPU every season. 5c loss.

I thought the KryoSheet was graphene? Or are we talking about two different things?

 

2 years sounds great Blameless. Many would be on an upgrade path in line with GPU's. I apply thermal paste to both the cooler and CPU when mounting to get that cohesion effect and to fill in all the micro gaps on the surface.

 

any idea what sheet size to get for a 13900k? For the KyroSheet. I may replace my Kyronaut extreme paste with this sheet.

 

 

Is it re-useable?
Or it has to be replaced each time changing the cooler or the cpu.

 

Actually he didn’t say nothing about reusable in video. I must have misheard sorry about that.

 

.

 

I might try on SSD.

 

If Kryosheet performs the same as Arctic MX-6, it will be good enough for most people I'd say - and way more practical to use.

 

I mean in the video with HardwareUnboxed he mentioned that you can reuse it.

 

Here you have some results and more talking points, very interested on the Mycro Direct-Die

 

Anyone try one of these sheets yet? I received mine yesterday but having second thoughts and think i might stick to Liquid Metal for direct die.

 

Works well on my 7800X3D, have about 7K lower temps as with the TF08 paste.
But I still have the HS on it, and LM is better.

 

7K is 7C?
That's huge. What cooler?

 

Yes 7°C, Heatkiller IV Pro.

 

Gamers Nexus & der8auer talking about a bunch of stuff but also Kryosheet.

TLDW, it's as good as paste, not as good as liquid metal because of the thickness, it's also extremely fragile so while technically you can reuse it if you can remove it without damage but temps wont be as good.

 

Yea I returned mine back to Amazon. I think it would be good option for stock cpu ihs if you build once and don’t take apart for many years. Don’t have to worry about paste losing perf.

 

Have put in an order via Amazon (Germany) to receive a couple of 38 mm Kryosheets, sometime on the 30th of this month.

Who knows, even if it turns up, Amazon has really dropped the ball with several deliveries to my place, since March this year.

 

I just used it on my 4090:

[Official] NVIDIA RTX 4090 Owner's Club

Last Updated: January 22, 2023 Note: This content is licensed under Creative Commons 3.0. This means that you are free to copy and redistribute this material, but only if the following criteria are met: 1) You must give appropriate credit by linking back to this thread. 2) You may not use this...

www.overclock.net

 

Looks like very nice decrease in temp also big drop in hotspot.

 

What size kryosheet do we need for intel direct die?

 

I think its their site
Their smallest cut… 25x25 or 12x25 somethtingn like that

 

PTM7950 is also 'once and done' and performs better.

Ive tried several graphene variants, and concluded that in every use case outside of a test bench, PTM7950 is the superior choice in terms of thermals.

Graphene is reuseable, and also VERY cheap in larger sheets (iirc i paid $35 for a 120mm x80mm Panasonic). It is also conductive, and handily bested by PTM7950, which is not reuseable, and nonconductive.

No way in HELL i would pay $30 for a tiny precut CPU sized piece, especially when i can buy enough to do 2-3 CPU and GPU combos for $40 with PTM7950 or a Panasonic graphene sheet.

You're paying DEARLY for such a tiny size, and mostly for the name. Most of it is PGS, and some chaiwanese knockoffs.

Real Panasonic PGS is on Digikey, for an order of magnitude less per square mm.

 

So far, there is only one graphene pad, the Kryosheet. The others are all graphite pads, which only conduct a fraction as well.

 

Agreed with the PTM 7950, it is quite good and does not degrade in time, if anything, it gets slightly better with heat cycles.

 

Can PTM7950 be used on direct die cpu? I don’t want to use liquid metal.

 

Yes it indeed can, since it's commonly used on laptop (which are direct die always now) CPU's and various GPU's and APU chips (Steam Deck, ROG Ally, etc).
I do not think it functions properly under a delidded and resealed IHS--I would ONLY use liquid metal for relidding for very obvious reasons.

 

Used PTM7950 this go on my 14700kf with the little noctua air cooler. Works a lot better than anything else. I was having to keep 7950x under 140w to keep it cool with MX6 but I'm pulling 200w now with it staying around 85c.

 

I do not really understand this fear of LM, especially between the IHS and die.

 

Anyone tried the crying sheet on the IHS instead of thermal paste? What's the temperature difference?

 

I have been using PTM7950 for a while now on PC components, also on my Steam Deck. I have a BUNCH of 80mmx80mm sheets. One can do at least a 3080 ti die, intel IHS, and a few Decks with a bunch left over for smaller stuff.

Should drop temps about 6c by itself vs factory Valve paste, and also drop fan speed about 400rpm's. I also have a larger heatsink and jsaux backplate with the metal cooling plate. Overall temps are down about 16c and fan speeds about 1200rpm, mine was thermal throttling and the fan annoyed me. I also used TG-PP10 under the Poseidons' larger monoblock heatsink which covers some IC's and the RAM, tested with a thermal probe before/after, and RAM temps are lower as well. I would imagine Liquid Metal performs excellent, and i assume you dammed it off around the APU. Only downside is the jsaux backplate aluminum heatsink area gets up to 63°c but thats with APU pulling a lot more power as well...


Give it a whirl, its great for stuff that gets drug about.

I did not dam it off around the APU.
even though I have some thin polyurethane air conditioner foam (and an even thinner strip I got in something I bought that I don't remember), the contact pressure is so anemic on that heatsink with those tiny screws and zero clamping pressure bad excuse for a pressure mount, that any dam would just hurt temps. So all I did was just put kapton tape all around the die and PCB outside of the substrate, applied just enough so that it wouldn't have any chance of spilling oveer, even if the deck went to through some vibrations, had to do some reapplies due to copper absorption issues, but the temps have now been perfectly stable for 3 months and has not gotten worse.

Cleaning the die is annoying but requires paper, ISO and some 1500 grit sandpaper. Just be careful of the mess getting someplace.
Cleaning the heatsink is best done with 1500 grit sandpaper to get off the hardened gallium oxidized layer and uneven crap left behind.

 

I had considered using thermal putty as a dam with a small breather hole, but nixed the idea in the end.

Amazing little machine, saved my sanity on some long (18+ hr) flights.

 

Using this pad since june 2022, still no performance degradation (on a A750 watercooled)