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Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus/EVO Club

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#2,283 ·
At some point I am going to remove my 212 and put some aluminum tape across the gap that is between the fan and the fins. I'll let you know if it helps.
 
#2,284 ·
I hate to be the one to spread the bad news but Newegg's 212+ price just hit $50.
buy.com still has it for a better $30 shipped.
Places in Canada (NCIX etc.) still have it for lower $20 shipped prices. I'm about to buy another one for a friend.

With the price being so annoyingly high now (honestly, you can get Scythe Mugen 2 for a lower price and that is so much better), I may stop recommending this heatsink altogether and commit myself to the Xigmatek GAIA. 3 heatpipes due to positioning performs better than 4 anyway.
 
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#2,286 ·
Quote:


Originally Posted by xd_1771
View Post

I hate to be the one to spread the bad news but Newegg's 212+ price just hit $50.
buy.com still has it for a better $30 shipped.
Places in Canada (NCIX etc.) still have it for lower $20 shipped prices. I'm about to buy another one for a friend.

With the price being so annoyingly high now (honestly, you can get Scythe Mugen 2 for a lower price and that is so much better), I may stop recommending this heatsink altogether and commit myself to the Xigmatek GAIA. 3 heatpipes due to positioning performs better than 4 anyway.

The demand is so high for these things that CM can probably get away for raising the prices.
 
#2,288 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ismet;13942888
The demand is so high for these things that CM can probably get away for raising the prices.
Click to expand...
till they realize they stopped making profit due to the price rise.
It's a bit of a stupid move on their part.

Why rise the price of something thats selling good and have a potential of slamming into a wall with it not selling and people looking at other companies that have better for less?

At the point you may as well save a little more and buy the D14
 
#2,290 ·
Ok, maybe someone here can give me some advice on temps and the cooler...

I picked up a Hyper 212+ for my SB build, but not sure whether it is sufficient for my needs now. At stock with a i5-2500k (so default 3.3ghz) it sees temps of 30c idle but 56c under load in Prime95 or IBT. Whilst admittedly my room is usually around 27-30c, the case has 2 front intake fans, a side intake, and two exhaust fans at the back and top back, so this seems hot to me.

Overclocked to a measly 4.2ghz it was getting up to 65c under load. Again seems pretty hot to me that. It could be the airflow in the Fractal Design R3 case isn't ideal (front fans hit wall of HDD enclosures and I can't use the bottom fan space due to the stupidly short and therefore messy XFX PSU cabling) but do those temps suggest that either the ambient room temp is a problem, or that the heatsink needs reseating? Sadly I was daft enough to use Arctic Silver for the TIM not the stuff supplied with the cooler that I read here was actually better, so maybe it is the weak link?
Edit

Hmmm actually wondering whether the board on auto OC settings (as per the Hardforum guide by an Asus tech) is making the vcore far higher than needed. Wonder if that might up the temps a bit.
 
#2,291 ·
#2,292 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by All-a-Mort;13948378
Ok, maybe someone here can give me some advice on temps and the cooler...

I picked up a Hyper 212+ for my SB build, but not sure whether it is sufficient for my needs now. At stock with a i5-2500k (so default 3.3ghz) it sees temps of 30c idle but 56c under load in Prime95 or IBT. Whilst admittedly my room is usually around 27-30c, the case has 2 front intake fans, a side intake, and two exhaust fans at the back and top back, so this seems hot to me.

Overclocked to a measly 4.2ghz it was getting up to 65c under load. Again seems pretty hot to me that. It could be the airflow in the Fractal Design R3 case isn't ideal (front fans hit wall of HDD enclosures and I can't use the bottom fan space due to the stupidly short and therefore messy XFX PSU cabling) but do those temps suggest that either the ambient room temp is a problem, or that the heatsink needs reseating? Sadly I was daft enough to use Arctic Silver for the TIM not the stuff supplied with the cooler that I read here was actually better, so maybe it is the weak link?
Edit

Hmmm actually wondering whether the board on auto OC settings (as per the Hardforum guide by an Asus tech) is making the vcore far higher than needed. Wonder if that might up the temps a bit.
Click to expand...
If you can clean things up inside the case, it will improve the airflow of the fans thus increasing their effectiveness of moving the heat out of the case. People all over this board will tell you that auto settings aren't recommended. Search around for a good vcore for the SB i5-2500k.

If the auto settings are giving you a high vcore than you actually need and you lower it, you will get a lower core temp. Also, consider adding another fan to the 212 + to run a push/pull configuration. That will further help with heat dissipation. I'm new to all of this as well, but this is what I understand so far.
biggrin.gif
Hope I offered you some kind of help.
 
#2,293 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by All-a-Mort;13948378
Ok, maybe someone here can give me some advice on temps and the cooler...

I picked up a Hyper 212+ for my SB build, but not sure whether it is sufficient for my needs now. At stock with a i5-2500k (so default 3.3ghz) it sees temps of 30c idle but 56c under load in Prime95 or IBT. Whilst admittedly my room is usually around 27-30c, the case has 2 front intake fans, a side intake, and two exhaust fans at the back and top back, so this seems hot to me.

Overclocked to a measly 4.2ghz it was getting up to 65c under load. Again seems pretty hot to me that. It could be the airflow in the Fractal Design R3 case isn't ideal (front fans hit wall of HDD enclosures and I can't use the bottom fan space due to the stupidly short and therefore messy XFX PSU cabling) but do those temps suggest that either the ambient room temp is a problem, or that the heatsink needs reseating? Sadly I was daft enough to use Arctic Silver for the TIM not the stuff supplied with the cooler that I read here was actually better, so maybe it is the weak link?
Edit

Hmmm actually wondering whether the board on auto OC settings (as per the Hardforum guide by an Asus tech) is making the vcore far higher than needed. Wonder if that might up the temps a bit.
Click to expand...
You aren't going to do much better no matter what you do to the case or the heatsink that will improve temps more than a degree or two from that due to the higher than normal ambient room temps. 30C idle in a 27-30C room is excellent. Please remember that as the ambient room temps increase the hotter air is less efficient at cooling so a 20C rise over ambient at a normal 20-22C (68-72F) room could easily equate to a 30C rise over ambient at 30C (86F) due to the efficiency loss and a case that looks nice, but isn't the most efficient at air cooling. You might want to remove the side panel fan to see if that helps at all. The cpu temps in my Storm Sniper goes up 2C when I have the side panel fan running due to it disrupting the nice front to back airflow pattern it normally has.

As far as I'm concerned unless you can lower the ambient room temps there isn't much you can do without spending a LOT of money for a high end cpu heatsink like a ThermalRight Silver Arrow and a case with better airflow like a CM HAF 932. Even then you would probably only lower load temps by 5C. Bet 65C under load isn't anything to be overly worried about anyway. Thta's well within the acceptable temp range for that cpu.

EDIT: You could try remounting it to make sure that the TIM was applied and spread correctly. And what were you temps with the stock heatsink compared to the 212+? The difference under load should be a good 10C or better.

As far as the price going up, I don't think that CM is raising the price, just the resellers who are raising the price based on the popularity. Newegg's computers are coded to do that on items that are selling well. Plus, with CM about to release a new and improved version of the 212+ (no details on the exact changes or release date) it's possible that CM has already stopped production on the current version and resellers are responding by raising prices on the remaining inventory.
 
#2,294 ·
biggrin.gif
Hyper 212+ Club?! Nice.

Mine:
2011-05-16004207.jpg


You will find my 4.5ghz validation in the AMD 4ghz Club link in my sig. LOVE this thang.
tongue.gif
 
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#2,295 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ismet;13953722
If you can clean things up inside the case, it will improve the airflow of the fans thus increasing their effectiveness of moving the heat out of the case. People all over this board will tell you that auto settings aren't recommended. Search around for a good vcore for the SB i5-2500k.

If the auto settings are giving you a high vcore than you actually need and you lower it, you will get a lower core temp. Also, consider adding another fan to the 212 + to run a push/pull configuration. That will further help with heat dissipation. I'm new to all of this as well, but this is what I understand so far.
biggrin.gif
Hope I offered you some kind of help.
Click to expand...
Yeah, airflow is likely not the best. I hate the cabling currently. Strikes me that the cables for my XFX 750w Black Edition PSU are somewhere between too short to have them tidily run through the holes in the case behind the mainboard (seriously they won't reach to come back) and too long to avoid annoying lengths of it hanging around. I'll need to make a serious effort at tidying it up. It's one of the reasons I put the side fan in, because the GPU fan has minimal airflow with the cables sat just below it interrupting the cooler, so I'm trying the side fan to throw air at it. Not a lot of room with the Xonar Essence soundcard and 6950 GPU in that FD case. Doesn't help that the ambient air in the room isn't exactly chilly.

Is there much to be gained using a second fan with the cooler? I've read the difference is rarely more than degree or two and more often is just so that the fans run slower and quieter than with one. Anyway, is there anywhere that would detail which 120mm fans will fit on with the Hyper 212+ heatsink, because I noticed that now it comes with little metal wire clips not the previous larger plastic(?) ones. I couldn't attach the Yate Loon fans to it because the clips require holes in the inner frame of the fan, which the blademaster has but the YL's didn't.

Everything I've read suggests the SB chip should manage 4.5ghz at around 1.3v or so. I did look at doing the whole offset voltage thing first of all as seems to be in vogue at Hardforum which was the guide I was using, but didn't get 4.6 or 4.5 stable (no idea if that was cos the offset needed to be higher or lower). Temps were high though anyway at 74c, and the voltage spiked to 1.4v in Aida64, so not liking that much. I'll likely not get a chance to do try anything else, by the time I get home from work. Though I guess could leave it running Prime95 or Aida64 overnight for a longer test.

@Papasmurf
I think I probably didn't quite apply the TIM correctly. Think I put it on the chip mostly not the heatsink, so perhaps that is costing me. I've since read the TIM application guides where it suggests two lines on the heatsink. I know I didn't apply too much though and did spread it properly.

Not much I can do to reduce the air temp other than open the windows wider (call that British air conditioning) or do a rain dance and hope the weather doesn't turn into an Indian Summer here. Much of the heat is due to the display being a LCD TV, which pumps out a ridiculous amount of heat.
 
#2,296 ·
Hey Papa,

Is it possible to order an additional fan clip for the 212? (as opposed to zip tie-ing a second fan)
 
#2,297 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by grishkathefool;13967495
Hey Papa,

Is it possible to order an additional fan clip for the 212? (as opposed to zip tie-ing a second fan)
Click to expand...
It comes with an extra, do you not have it anymore?
 
#2,298 ·
erp... lemme dig around and see if I kept the box >.<

sweet... I did. Thanks for pointing that out, Skyline.

Okay, so, best fan to replace stock fan with? I will order three, two for HS and one to replace my molex blow hole fan.
 
#2,299 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by All-a-Mort;13960807
Yeah, airflow is likely not the best. I hate the cabling currently. Strikes me that the cables for my XFX 750w Black Edition PSU are somewhere between too short to have them tidily run through the holes in the case behind the mainboard (seriously they won't reach to come back) and too long to avoid annoying lengths of it hanging around. I'll need to make a serious effort at tidying it up. It's one of the reasons I put the side fan in, because the GPU fan has minimal airflow with the cables sat just below it interrupting the cooler, so I'm trying the side fan to throw air at it. Not a lot of room with the Xonar Essence soundcard and 6950 GPU in that FD case. Doesn't help that the ambient air in the room isn't exactly chilly.
Click to expand...
You might want to look into some extensions to allow you to route the cables behind the mobo tray.
Quote:
Originally Posted by All-a-Mort;13960807
Is there much to be gained using a second fan with the cooler? I've read the difference is rarely more than degree or two and more often is just so that the fans run slower and quieter than with one. Anyway, is there anywhere that would detail which 120mm fans will fit on with the Hyper 212+ heatsink, because I noticed that now it comes with little metal wire clips not the previous larger plastic(?) ones. I couldn't attach the Yate Loon fans to it because the clips require holes in the inner frame of the fan, which the blademaster has but the YL's didn't.
Click to expand...
You have that backwards. The older ones had the metal clips while the newer ones have the plastic clips. You can still use the metal ones on the Yates by modding the Yates. Use a file, saw, rotary tool, etc. to remove the area of the fan that is boxed in so that it is like the stock BladeMaster that the 212+ came with. I've done that on a lot of fans with boxed in corners like some of the Yates. It doesn't weaken the fan at all if you are careful and don't cut too deep.

And yes it's true that you'll more than likely only see 1 or 2C difference, but in some cases that 1 or 2C can be rather important.

Quote:
Originally Posted by All-a-Mort;13960807
Everything I've read suggests the SB chip should manage 4.5ghz at around 1.3v or so. I did look at doing the whole offset voltage thing first of all as seems to be in vogue at Hardforum which was the guide I was using, but didn't get 4.6 or 4.5 stable (no idea if that was cos the offset needed to be higher or lower). Temps were high though anyway at 74c, and the voltage spiked to 1.4v in Aida64, so not liking that much. I'll likely not get a chance to do try anything else, by the time I get home from work. Though I guess could leave it running Prime95 or Aida64 overnight for a longer test.

@Papasmurf
I think I probably didn't quite apply the TIM correctly. Think I put it on the chip mostly not the heatsink, so perhaps that is costing me. I've since read the TIM application guides where it suggests two lines on the heatsink. I know I didn't apply too much though and did spread it properly.

Not much I can do to reduce the air temp other than open the windows wider (call that British air conditioning) or do a rain dance and hope the weather doesn't turn into an Indian Summer here. Much of the heat is due to the display being a LCD TV, which pumps out a ridiculous amount of heat.
Click to expand...
Instead of putting the TIM on the cpu you should run thin strips of it down each of the heatpipes. That tends to work better. If you put it on the cpu when it spreads too much of it goes into the nearest grooves between the aluminum base and the heatpipes and doesn't fully spread properly. Since this is what is called a Heatpipe Direct Contact one has to apply the TIM differently than one would with a regular flat based heatsink.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grishkathefool;13967593
erp... lemme dig around and see if I kept the box >.<

sweet... I did. Thanks for pointing that out, Skyline.

Okay, so, best fan to replace stock fan with? I will order three, two for HS and one to replace my molex blow hole fan.
Click to expand...
For the heatsink I would just get another one of the BladeMaster's that it came with. That would allow you to retain PWM functionality and still provide good cooling efficiency. Otherwise Hi Speed Yates work very well, but the difference in temps compared to the BladeMaster is about 1C at best, but they don't support PWM so you would loose auto fan control on a lot of motherboards. To get any better cooling you would need to go with something like the 100+ cfm Deltas or San Aces, but that would probably only gain you a degree or so over the BladeMaster's or Hi Speed Yates would be considerably louder, and cost a lot more money. The 212+ has very tightly packed fins, considerably more so than most of the others so Static Pressure is

The BladeMaster's and Hi Speed Yates are a bit overkill for case fans. For a case fan I'm partial to Low or Medium Speed Yate Loons. If one has a fan controller then the HI Speed Yate or BladeMaster would work okay as one could control the noise. While the higher static pressure and higher cfms are necessary to push the air through heatsinks and rads, they don't really do much as case fans since they don't have to force the air through a tight opening. Any fan that pushes an actual 40-60cfm and stays within the noise parameter's of the user is ideal as a case fan. Gelid makes some excellent and quiet case fans as well, but they tend to be more expensive.
 
#2,300 ·
I was looking at 3 and 4 pin PWM fans. I will compare the Blademasters against other options, then. Thanks.
 
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