Overclock.net banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Do it like the Quake players, bind shooting your gun to your keyboard.
Yeah as if the keyboard switches and keyboard latency was good lol. Short travel crisp click 100 Hz keyboards? Where are they.

---

OP, simple, like any new mouse the clicks are super stiff because the switches are not yet worn in. I've used my IE3.0 for a decade and while I replaced the switches once I've cleaned them many times which is way better than replacing, this means those switches are feather light to click.
Getting a new mouse, any mouse the clicks are stiffer, depending on button design they can be much stiffer. My G403 was quite stiff, so much that when I cleaned it first time I pressed the switches down as far as I could so I can spray the cleaner inside them as usual but I think I over did it a bit or these newer switches are a bit softer than older production because after that the switches are feather light on the G403. Basically you press the switch down but I would advise against pressing them beyond the outer housing so you don't bend them too much. That's all it takes. The difficult part is taking some of these new mice apart and putting them back as at least logitech mice are sort of a puzzle with waaay too many parts.

With any new mouse with stiff clicks I would again take it apart and press the switches down with the thin tube going from my electric contact cleaner and clean them already when new.

Those Panasonic or what it is switches that Logitech uses for middle click are an abomination, it's softer now but it's at about a normal acceptable stiffness, not light.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contact_cleaner

This is how it looks like and any electronic components store has it:

https://www.gmelectronic.com/data/product/1024_1024/pctdetail.744-014.1.jpg

If you think I'm using these new ones, nope, I use some old can from early 90s and even have a spare one. The stuff lasts forever.

It is entirely normal for frequently used contacts to go bad, all the mechanical micro switches I have ever used in mice last about 1-2 years at most, after that they start to have intermittent connection causing double clicks and need to be cleaned. Most people go RMA it or buy a new mouse, I just use an old electrical contact cleaner and the switches are good for another year or two.
 
Out of all the mice I've tried (not an insignificant number), the Cougar Revenger S has one of the lightest clicks on the lmb and rmb. One of the things I didn't like about it.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Do it like the Quake players, bind shooting your gun to your keyboard.
I'm not good enough for that, I _much_ prefer having all the aim stuff set on the mouse itself (LMB shoot, Hold RMB for zoom, etc.)

Or get one of these:

Image
No thanks haha

Yeah as if the keyboard switches and keyboard latency was good lol. Short travel crisp click 100 Hz keyboards? Where are they.

---

OP, simple, like any new mouse the clicks are super stiff because the switches are not yet worn in. I've used my IE3.0 for a decade and while I replaced the switches once I've cleaned them many times which is way better than replacing, this means those switches are feather light to click.
Getting a new mouse, any mouse the clicks are stiffer, depending on button design they can be much stiffer. My G403 was quite stiff, so much that when I cleaned it first time I pressed the switches down as far as I could so I can spray the cleaner inside them as usual but I think I over did it a bit or these newer switches are a bit softer than older production because after that the switches are feather light on the G403. Basically you press the switch down but I would advise against pressing them beyond the outer housing so you don't bend them too much. That's all it takes. The difficult part is taking some of these new mice apart and putting them back as at least logitech mice are sort of a puzzle with waaay too many parts.

With any new mouse with stiff clicks I would again take it apart and press the switches down with the thin tube going from my electric contact cleaner and clean them already when new.

Those Panasonic or what it is switches that Logitech uses for middle click are an abomination, it's softer now but it's at about a normal acceptable stiffness, not light.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contact_cleaner

This is how it looks like and any electronic components store has it:

https://www.gmelectronic.com/data/product/1024_1024/pctdetail.744-014.1.jpg

If you think I'm using these new ones, nope, I use some old can from early 90s and even have a spare one. The stuff lasts forever.

It is entirely normal for frequently used contacts to go bad, all the mechanical micro switches I have ever used in mice last about 1-2 years at most, after that they start to have intermittent connection causing double clicks and need to be cleaned. Most people go RMA it or buy a new mouse, I just use an old electrical contact cleaner and the switches are good for another year or two.
I have a G403 but the clicks are still stiff even after 2 years of use..
Are you suggesting that I need to *bend* the shell so the contacts are made easier?

Kain? Very light and easy to press.
Roccat Kain?

Out of all the mice I've tried (not an insignificant number), the Cougar Revenger S has one of the lightest clicks on the lmb and rmb. One of the things I didn't like about it.
Looks great, probably what I need. What other mice have you tried? (is there a list somewhere)
 
I have a G403 but the clicks are still stiff even after 2 years of use..
Are you suggesting that I need to *bend* the shell so the contacts are made easier?
No, press the switch pin down, but if you press it a lot down beyond the shell say with a toothpick or screwdriver tip then you may "bend it" too much. I don't know why these newer Omrons are so stiff but in the G403 they were quite annoyingly stiff. So when I cleaned them I used the tiny tube going from the spray to press the switch pin down and then spray inside the switch, or press with my finger nail, maybe a bit too much. I've done this many times with IE3.0 over the years but usually don't try and press the pin down as much, well lesson learned but I use the mouse just fine anyway even with clicks lighter than my ages old IE3.0.

You press the white pin down until it's level with the outer shell. If that is still not light enough or it's not bending anything yet, well try pressing it down more.

Image


It's hard to spray into it otherwise anyway.

Just try not to over do it by pressing the pin way too low or it may be too light or you may break the switch. Some switch design, switches I have here I can jam all I want, nothing breaks but I would have to take apart some mouse to try it on the newer design Omrons.
This bending should work for all switches with same or similar design as the common Omrons in mice. I just took apart an old Zippy and that one has an actual coil spring inside, so this bending doesn't work on that one.

Here is a video someone else made using the electric contact cleaner:

https://youtu.be/TCcjd4ZMgnY?t=542

The difference is I use the tube from the spray you see in the video and press the pin down with it so it sprays as much into the switch instead of on top of it. Then click it a few times.

Obviously as mentioned above if you abuse the switch a bit by pressing the pin down more than usual or a little beyond the shell to the inside then the spring gets a little bent or weakened resulting in lighter clicks.



LOL I'm googling pictures of the switches and they now even try to sell the internal springs of the switches as a possible solution to double clicks. As if the switches were even serviceable by disassembly easily without breaking something inside or the shell clips, just buy a new switch and resolder it if it's so bad that it needs a hardware fix. Why does changing the spring part work? Well it "works" because that's also the contact part, but you don't need to replace that to fix double clicks, you only need to fix the contact surfaces and that can be done with an electronic contact cleaner.

The contact surfaces oxidize and get dirty over time from wear, causing poor contact and intermittent connection, all it needs is cleaning.


Also beware that light clicks are not for everyone and you may then accidentally be clicking the buttons when resting finger on the buttons. Depends how light you make the clicks and the button design. And then of course, getting used to it.

If you need to see what's inside:

Image
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
No, press the switch pin down, but if you press it a lot down beyond the shell say with a toothpick or screwdriver tip then you may "bend it" too much. I don't know why these newer Omrons are so stiff but in the G403 they were quite annoyingly stiff. So when I cleaned them I used the tiny tube going from the spray to press the switch pin down and then spray inside the switch, or press with my finger nail, maybe a bit too much. I've done this many times with IE3.0 over the years but usually don't try and press the pin down as much, well lesson learned but I use the mouse just fine anyway even with clicks lighter than my ages old IE3.0.

You press the white pin down until it's level with the outer shell. If that is still not light enough or it's not bending anything yet, well try pressing it down more.

Image


It's hard to spray into it otherwise anyway.

Just try not to over do it by pressing the pin way too low or it may be too light or you may break the switch. Some switch design, switches I have here I can jam all I want, nothing breaks but I would have to take apart some mouse to try it on the newer design Omrons.
This bending should work for all switches with same or similar design as the common Omrons in mice. I just took apart an old Zippy and that one has an actual coil spring inside, so this bending doesn't work on that one.

Here is a video someone else made using the electric contact cleaner:

https://youtu.be/TCcjd4ZMgnY?t=542

The difference is I use the tube from the spray you see in the video and press the pin down with it so it sprays as much into the switch instead of on top of it. Then click it a few times.

Obviously as mentioned above if you abuse the switch a bit by pressing the pin down more than usual or a little beyond the shell to the inside then the spring gets a little bent or weakened resulting in lighter clicks.



LOL I'm googling pictures of the switches and they now even try to sell the internal springs of the switches as a possible solution to double clicks. As if the switches were even serviceable by disassembly easily without breaking something inside or the shell clips, just buy a new switch and resolder it if it's so bad that it needs a hardware fix. Why does changing the spring part work? Well it "works" because that's also the contact part, but you don't need to replace that to fix double clicks, you only need to fix the contact surfaces and that can be done with an electronic contact cleaner.

The contact surfaces oxidize and get dirty over time from wear, causing poor contact and intermittent connection, all it needs is cleaning.


Also beware that light clicks are not for everyone and you may then accidentally be clicking the buttons when resting finger on the buttons. Depends how light you make the clicks and the button design. And then of course, getting used to it.

If you need to see what's inside:

Image
Do I need to disassemble my G403 for this? Like in
Or do I just take the tube/small screwdriver and directly try to fit it below the buttons?
With a flashlight I can see the "white pin" you're referring to, but it's pretty far in there.
 
Do I need to disassemble my G403 for this? Like in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xevFoLis2uY&vl=en
Or do I just take the tube/small screwdriver and directly try to fit it below the buttons?
With a flashlight I can see the "white pin" you're referring to, but it's pretty far in there.
I had the whole thing apart and yes it's a long process to take the G403 apart and put it back together if you want to access everything. I was swapping cable at the same time.

Maybe some mouse if you're crafy you could get the tiny tube close enough if all you want to do is clean it, get the cleaner there and hope for the best for it to get inside and clean the contact so it doesn't have the intermittent contact problem.
Usually the button sits close to the pin and there is no space anyway. Looking into my G403, I would say no chance with the mouse in one piece. The G403 is really complicated and the switches I think are held to the top shell buttons for better accuracy of the distance between buttons and switches. Some things make sense, other are endless plastic pieces and cables for lights or that extra CPI switch, and so on, it's a complicated mouse inside but it works on the outside.
 
No, press the switch pin down, but if you press it a lot down beyond the shell say with a toothpick or screwdriver tip then you may "bend it" too much. I don't know why these newer Omrons are so stiff but in the G403 they were quite annoyingly stiff. So when I cleaned them I used the tiny tube going from the spray to press the switch pin down and then spray inside the switch, or press with my finger nail, maybe a bit too much. I've done this many times with IE3.0 over the years but usually don't try and press the pin down as much, well lesson learned but I use the mouse just fine anyway even with clicks lighter than my ages old IE3.0.



You press the white pin down until it's level with the outer shell. If that is still not light enough or it's not bending anything yet, well try pressing it down more.



Image




It's hard to spray into it otherwise anyway.



Just try not to over do it by pressing the pin way too low or it may be too light or you may break the switch. Some switch design, switches I have here I can jam all I want, nothing breaks but I would have to take apart some mouse to try it on the newer design Omrons.

This bending should work for all switches with same or similar design as the common Omrons in mice. I just took apart an old Zippy and that one has an actual coil spring inside, so this bending doesn't work on that one.



Here is a video someone else made using the electric contact cleaner:



https://youtu.be/TCcjd4ZMgnY?t=542



The difference is I use the tube from the spray you see in the video and press the pin down with it so it sprays as much into the switch instead of on top of it. Then click it a few times.



Obviously as mentioned above if you abuse the switch a bit by pressing the pin down more than usual or a little beyond the shell to the inside then the spring gets a little bent or weakened resulting in lighter clicks.







LOL I'm googling pictures of the switches and they now even try to sell the internal springs of the switches as a possible solution to double clicks. As if the switches were even serviceable by disassembly easily without breaking something inside or the shell clips, just buy a new switch and resolder it if it's so bad that it needs a hardware fix. Why does changing the spring part work? Well it "works" because that's also the contact part, but you don't need to replace that to fix double clicks, you only need to fix the contact surfaces and that can be done with an electronic contact cleaner.



The contact surfaces oxidize and get dirty over time from wear, causing poor contact and intermittent connection, all it needs is cleaning.





Also beware that light clicks are not for everyone and you may then accidentally be clicking the buttons when resting finger on the buttons. Depends how light you make the clicks and the button design. And then of course, getting used to it.



If you need to see what's inside:



Image
Big thank you this post!! It's exactly like you said
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts