I am wondering if anyone has experiences with Optimus CPU Waterblocks. I just ordered one of there AM4 blocks out. There aren't many reviews out there except the hardocp one (using the intel v1 block) and they had some very good results.
Optimus Waterblock
Section31
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Glad to hear you got it sorted and they are sending you a new one. My suspicion is had I tried I would have gotten the same result. Its nothing more than USB communicating to their device though their software and USB either works or it doesnt. This was the best option. When Mine crapped from X23 they overnighted me a new one even though their website and everywhere else had no stock. Ive found that if you are straight and nice with them they are eager to please their customers. Conversely Ive seen butt fleas acting an a$$ up in their forum get told to be nice, then warned and finally banned. Thats where I started, they responded within an hour or so and told me to log a ticket which I did. They sent me an email asking the circumanstances and I replied and next thing I got was a DHL shipping notification. I replied to the early email asking if they wanted the old one back and they told me to toss it. They didnt send the rubber backing or anything else, just the board itself which is fine, not like its hard to pop out the borked one from the rubber mount.
Anyhow anytime someone can use the help and I can accommodate and you want to send whatever it is to me I'm more than happy to help. I wont rip anyone off, bad Karma and lord knows I have more PC crap than I know what to do with. If I wasnt lazy Id have one hell of a sale. I usually just watch the market place and see if someone is looking or multiple times Ive packed up stuff and sent it to people less fortunate. Empties out shelf space in my PC parts store in the basement and makes the wife happy when she sees things going out. Now if I could just get her to reciprocate LOL. Closest I get is she moves stuff out of the house and into the garage when I spend a whole weekend in their cleaning it out. Freaking 2 car garage and the only thing parked in there is my HD Fatboy and a snowblower. Granted some it its mine. I need to get busy popping out fasteners in copper plates, stripping DLO cable and some UPS heat sinks that are like 40 pounds of solid copper each. With the prices where they are now at $3.80 lb for bright copper that I have every bit of 1000 lbs of it I need to get busy. Probably knock it out in a weekend. Also sitting on a Dozen or more UPS batteries, not the little guys either. All 150-200 lbs each. Thats 20 cents a pound so theres another $500 for scrap batteries. For those all I have to do is load them up. Probably first step to get some room to work the rest. Im going to open up one side anyway so I can fit my drive on bike lift, parts shelves and tool boxes for my bike and triple dog dare here to put anything in that half of the garage!!. If she does the next thing rolling in will be a load of lumber to put up a wall and only the garage door for that side and an entry door closer to the house entrance. Might do that anyway so I can insulate it and put heat and air in there.
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Meant to ask you are you getting a BSOD or GSOD? All of my Win 11 fails have given me a green screen. Nice change from the old blue and gets your attention. Bright a$$ lime green.Windows 11 would BSOD on me every 30 minutes or so, but Windows 10 never did. This with my CPU Core Cycler stable and my memory TM5 stable.
I found out yesterday my 12v CPU and GPU rails were lowering to 11.6v while under load and who knows what else was screwed up with my voltages.
I narrowed it down to my CableMod Pro cables.
Back to the stock AX1600i cables and my 12v rails never go below 12.05v.
So now I want to try Windows 11 again. I need to do a clean install as I deleted my Windows 11 Macrium image I was so discouraged with it.
But with all my scripts and stuff I run through my answer file on first boot get everything completely configured and set up in 11 in less than an hour.
Edit: I had a Windows 11 Macrium image on my traditional hard disk I backed up my second M.2 to.
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When it came out and my MOBO has 10GBe over copper and router to managed switch as well as managed switch to NAS are fiber SFP+ I bit the bullet. The managed switch was probably the most expensive part, around $2K. If you are doing it all copper and dont want to or dont know how to use a managed switch and just want plug and play the run of the mill unmanaged 10 port 10GBe runs around $200. I have one upstairs in my office and one downstairs tucked behind my home entertainment. I just got finished moving the Verizion router and my Netgear nighthawk X10 out of sight and out of mind. Dont care where the Verizion one sits as I dont use the wifi. Just has to connect to the OND then to my nighthawk for ISP then it has to connect to the main DVR box downstairs as thats how they transmit the guides. The box upstairs is the only wireless thing that connects to that router so I dont have to run a cable. Can pack that box where ever. So a few long pieces of cable up and down the center chase that runs from the basement to the attic where my Furnace and water heater chimney used to be before I ripped that sucker out and went HE on both. Then one Cat 6 cable back down to the Nighthawk that now resides hanging on the wall when you open the basement door which is right smack in the middle of the house and at first floor level. Have an access point attached to the 10GB switch upstairs so its all meshed. So dont have to look at that up in with my how entertainment stuff anymore. Nothing there but a cable DVR, Oppo UHD HDR bluray, Denon AVR and 3 Emotiva amps. Went with 3 to get the power. They make very nice amps, they arent cheap but they arent stupid expensive either. Have a two channel to drive my Polk L800. 3 channel to drive my Polk legends center and L600 surrounds then a 5 channel that drive the atmos height channels and rear surround channels. Not a damn thing on FIOS uses the technology. Mostly just 5.1 surround. Theres a good bit on netflix, HULU and VUDU and of course the Oppo Not only puts out nice 4K HDR with dolby vision and seperate HDMI to the AVR for audio will just blow you away with the soundtracks and SACD. My wife doesnt like it but when you are watching a scene where a helocopter comes and flys over and its recorded in ATMOS the sound starts in front, goes overhead then to the surround back. She would just as soon watch with the TV speakers. The sound separation messes with her head I think. Fine with me, at least that way I dont have to worry about a woman running their yap while you are trying to watch a movie.
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Just got my Strix block yesterday and got some RGB strip taped to the side. Pretty impressed with the look. Just need to swap out my card next week when I have the time.
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197 Posts
To the guys owning the 12900K
Would you say it’s worth upgrading from a 5900x or previous last gen Intel CPU’S,or should I wait for next gen and sit this one out?
I’m thinking about switching over because my pc is 80% for gaming and it’s easier to tweak etc…then the 5900x and AMD’s.
If yes,how are the DDR5’s because they’re new? Which one is the best currently and which motherboard is recommended if money isn’t a problem?
I’ve read reviews but it’s kinda all over the place,for some it’s buggy others say it’s great…a bug here and there isn’t a issue I just need it for stable gaming and not crash every 15min
Would you say it’s worth upgrading from a 5900x or previous last gen Intel CPU’S,or should I wait for next gen and sit this one out?
I’m thinking about switching over because my pc is 80% for gaming and it’s easier to tweak etc…then the 5900x and AMD’s.
If yes,how are the DDR5’s because they’re new? Which one is the best currently and which motherboard is recommended if money isn’t a problem?
I’ve read reviews but it’s kinda all over the place,for some it’s buggy others say it’s great…a bug here and there isn’t a issue I just need it for stable gaming and not crash every 15min
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Personally after thinking about it a lot and looking at dozens of reviews...I came to the conclusion that early stage DDR5 will struggle to match high end DDR4. I went from cancelling my preorder for the Asus Z690 ROG Strix Gaming-A D4 board to preordering the Asus Z690 Apex, to then canceling that preorder and finally ordering that original D4 board once it was available in stock. It's cheaper. You don't have to rush out and spend a ton of money on super high end DDR5 that you can't even find, and that even then won't necessarily be better than your DDR4. And with people sharing details of how they're running their DDR4 at higher clocks in Gear 1 with the 12900k....kind of became a no-brainer.
I have an 11900K in my gaming setup. And a 5950x in my work computer. The 5950x is driving me nuts with random hangs during idle/low load. No OC or PBO or anything. Very unhappy with it. So going to put the 12900K in my gaming rig, move the 11900k into my work computer, and sell the 5950x garbage. As for stability and all that of 12900K, I can't comment yet. Motherboard won't arrive until the end of the week. Only real complaint I have with Z690 is that you can't run a PCIe 5.0 4x NVMe alongside PCIe 5.0 x16 GPU. So there's no future proofing there.
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Only thing i really want at this point is the perfect glass reservoir. The ultitube is the closest thing but it had minor issues that make me tempted to replace it. I am pretty content with my build overall though. It's not pretty by any means but its perfect combination of easy maintenance without looking too ugly. All my previous builds major downfall were when it came time to do maintenance, it was lot of work.
Unfortunately some things i have to live with. I suspect my Mo-Ra3 has some oxidization as its the only thing leftover that could be causing copperish elements to appear in the fittings. That and the fittings/quickdisconnect hit are all in the portion that deal directly with the Mo-Ra3 (the CPU loop fittings are very clean). No performance effect and Mayhem XTR mitigates the further risk so will live with it.
Unfortunately some things i have to live with. I suspect my Mo-Ra3 has some oxidization as its the only thing leftover that could be causing copperish elements to appear in the fittings. That and the fittings/quickdisconnect hit are all in the portion that deal directly with the Mo-Ra3 (the CPU loop fittings are very clean). No performance effect and Mayhem XTR mitigates the further risk so will live with it.
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I finally did more testing with 12900K gaming and i quite like the results. For my needs, it was worthwhile change since i won't every use 16core/32threads ever and i don't have the time to do per core overclock/undervolting. I also share same complaints about Gen 5 NVME but i figure its 2024-2025 before i change to 2TB Gen 5 NVME so i will get new motherboard then. Though i almost did buy the 2TB SN850 on sale this black friday but decided against because i was 100% going to get the 2TB Gen 5 Nvme in next two years. NVME have poor resale value and I don't need spare laying around. I plan to transfer the 1TB SN850 to PS5 down the road.
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Received my XT-1 V2 and all I did was unplug the cables so I can refill again. Guess what happened again my motherboard went into the same **** state with a “0D” led status code you can’t flash bios,you can’t cmos,you can’t do **** with it again. Literally the same exact thing happened 10 days ago and I had to completely remove everything and reinstall everything all over again.
I’m sitting here already wasting again 3h of my life with this stupid crap,since I’ve bought this crap CPU and AMD I’m more fixing then doing anything else. Literally a stupid unplug destroys your pc,I can’t even fix the bios to appear not to mention start anything.
If I have to redo everything again I’m done with pc’s,I’ll sell everything and **** this whole crap. Paying these prices and sitting here every 10 days fixing stuff because you unplugged or updated your bios isn’t worth my time or nerves.
I’m sitting here already wasting again 3h of my life with this stupid crap,since I’ve bought this crap CPU and AMD I’m more fixing then doing anything else. Literally a stupid unplug destroys your pc,I can’t even fix the bios to appear not to mention start anything.
If I have to redo everything again I’m done with pc’s,I’ll sell everything and **** this whole crap. Paying these prices and sitting here every 10 days fixing stuff because you unplugged or updated your bios isn’t worth my time or nerves.
If the 5950X is a work computer, why are you trying to run it as if it was a gaming computer with unfettered cpu voltages and clocks?
Why not just run it locked to a single high clock with just enough voltage to run stably at that clock. I can run my 5950X at much higher all-core clocks than what it would run with Auto or PBO settings on my all-core load and much lower voltages and temps. My 5950X is rock solid at 4.425GHz on all-cores on my BOINC loads and never breaks 80° C.
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To clarify…I’m NOT running PBO or any overclocking profile. A single high clock would require a single higher voltage and power consumption and heat generation for no reason. My expectation is for a CPU to work properly at default settings. It’s not able to do so. So instead of going through hoops to figure out how to make it not crash, I’m simply going to replace it. My Intel CPUs, whether on auto or locked clocks/voltage have been great. And 4.4GHz locked would be not so great for me as I do a lot of single threaded work as well (like photoshop). A stock 10900k would outperform a 5950x in those applications if you had to lock it to 4.4GHz. So why even bother?
It didn't take any sort of extraordinary measures to achieve my stable setting. I just set a 44.25 multiplier in the perCCX menu for both dies, set a .2125V offset for cpu voltage and LLC3 level and didn't enable any of the default overclock settings in the BIOS. The most tweaking I needed was for CL14 Fast 3600 memory. My system runs without issues 24/7 for weeks on end until I feel the need to do the pending updates. My stable loaded voltage is only around 1.26V and this is for my daily driver which also runs my Gridcoin wallet and which I spend most of the day in front of cruising the forums and Internet. I have set up my 3950X hosts the same way. The only hosts I run stock are the Epyc server hosts.
If I was to restart my sole Intel host which also only ran 4.4Ghz all-core, I would lose about 30% of production due to the inferior math performance compared to my AMD hosts. I'm talking about needing as much as 30 minutes longer to run my cpu tasks compared to my AMD hosts. I still have the Intel host motherboard, cpu and memory on the shelf for emergencies in case I might ever need it again. But why bother when it uses more power for much less performance.
If I was to restart my sole Intel host which also only ran 4.4Ghz all-core, I would lose about 30% of production due to the inferior math performance compared to my AMD hosts. I'm talking about needing as much as 30 minutes longer to run my cpu tasks compared to my AMD hosts. I still have the Intel host motherboard, cpu and memory on the shelf for emergencies in case I might ever need it again. But why bother when it uses more power for much less performance.
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To all you 12th gen guys out there. What ram kits were you actually able to get your hands on? Did any of you break down and pay scalper pricing? No matter how much I really want to swap out my 10th gen, I cannot bring myself to pay these exorbitant ddr5 scalper prices. Also not sure how I feel about getting 12th gen with ddr4. Would feel like too much of a expensive stop gap.
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Good luck getting ahold of ddr5 ram kits. Me and Shawnb99 were lucky to get ahold of xpg kit ddr5-5200 (shawnb99 through memexpress) and micron ddr5-4800 (myself through amazon) no heatsink kit. We paid non scalper prices but we both got it early thats why. Both of us are holding out for gskill trident z5 ddr5-5600 plus at this point. We are among the lucky ones to have workable systems.
You don’t heatsink according to derbauer. The kits available in canada (up to ddr5-5200 are micron). Hopefully hynix/samsung kits are better
As usual, corsair kits are overpriced in canada. The msrp for gskill z5 ddr5-5600 is 337usd on newegg us. Meanwhile corsair charge 440cad for dominator ddr5-5200. The trend of better gskill kits being cheaper than corsair continues from ddr4. Just when newegg.ca gets stock is the question.
Then canada computer is running bundle deals to sell there ram i suspect. I tried the bundle and guess what its won’t let you buy the bundle.
Probably best to use 10th gen couple more year and jump to Raptorlake or Meteorlake or Amd equivalent of them. If you must get alderlake, review testing shows for gaming ddr4 3600 good enough.
DDR5 Memory Performance Scaling with Alder Lake Core i9-12900K
In this article, we take a closer look at the performance scaling you can expect for various DDR5 configurations. We test from DDR5-6000 all the way down to DDR5-2400 and compare CL30 vs. CL36 vs. CL40. Last but not least, we also consider these numbers in relation to what DDR4-3600 offers.
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876 Posts
Yeah I dont really NEED it per say. Its just my 10900k is showing its older IPC in BF2042. Im getting pretty low dips. With that said, that game is massively cpu bottlenecked at the moment and something tells me that the magic performance patch isnt going to come. They might have just been too far ahead of themselves with the 128 player count.Good luck getting ahold of ddr5 ram kits. Me and Shawnb99 were lucky to get ahold of xpg kit ddr5-5200 (shawnb99 through memexpress) and micron ddr5-4800 (myself through amazon) no heatsink kit. We paid non scalper prices but we both got it early thats why. Both of us are holding out for gskill trident z5 ddr5-5600 plus at this point. We are among the lucky ones to have workable systems.
You don’t heatsink according to derbauer. The kits available in canada (up to ddr5-5200 are micron). Hopefully hynix/samsung kits are better
As usual, corsair kits are overpriced in canada. The msrp for gskill z5 ddr5-5600 is 337usd on newegg us. Meanwhile corsair charge 440cad for dominator ddr5-5200. The trend of better gskill kits being cheaper than corsair continues from ddr4. Just when newegg.ca gets stock is the question.
Then canada computer is running bundle deals to sell there ram i suspect. I tried the bundle and guess what its won’t let you buy the bundle.
Probably best to use 10th gen couple more year and jump to Raptorlake or Meteorlake or Amd equivalent of them. If you must get alderlake, review testing shows for gaming ddr4 3600 good enough.
DDR5 Memory Performance Scaling with Alder Lake Core i9-12900K
In this article, we take a closer look at the performance scaling you can expect for various DDR5 configurations. We test from DDR5-6000 all the way down to DDR5-2400 and compare CL30 vs. CL36 vs. CL40. Last but not least, we also consider these numbers in relation to what DDR4-3600 offers.www.techpowerup.com
Yeah Im not gunna bother with a DDR4 motherboard for alder. I know at this point its close in performance but Ill end up wanting to swap it out soon as better ddr5 is actually available and will waste my money.
I have a ugly feeling that the DDR5 mess isnt going to get better soon either. Its gunna just get worse with scalpers.
Did shawn99 actually get his ram yet? or still pre order?
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On one of his 10 hour-long Z690 motherboard videos, Buildzoid described how the through-hole capacitors on the Extreme are not as good as the polymer capacitors on the Apex.
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Went on Optimus's website this morning and noticed this. Haven't seen any announcements about this from them.
![Font Publication Poster Advertising Event]()
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That was up on their site last week.. lol
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