So, I have a question about the temps, I know the Intel 12th Gen runs hot, I have an Air cooler for this CPU that while on idle sits around 30 degrees celsius. Unfortunately, under load it varies from anywhere between mid 70's to high 80's. I have a Corsair 5000x case, with three intake fans blowing, one exhaust fan, an EVGA RTX 3080ti. But, my concern is that I have seen it reach 90's in COD MW2 remaster as well as Escape from Tarkov, even reaching 100 degrees. I want to know if it's the cooler or if it's possibly a bad binned CPU. I just got the PC custom built and have never dealt with a hot CPU before.
Brand New I7 12700KF temps
Aluc13
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So, I have a question about the temps, I know the Intel 12th Gen runs hot, I have an Air cooler for this CPU that while on idle sits around 30 degrees celsius. Unfortunately, under load it varies from anywhere between mid 70's to high 80's. I have a Corsair 5000x case, with three intake fans blowing, one exhaust fan, an EVGA RTX 3080ti. But, my concern is that I have seen it reach 90's in COD MW2 remaster as well as Escape from Tarkov, even reaching 100 degrees. I want to know if it's the cooler or if it's possibly a bad binned CPU. I just got the PC custom built and have never dealt with a hot CPU before.
Oh yeah, I have seen the contact frames. I've seen people say they work and show improvement, and others say they don't. I'm just wondering if there is any possible way to check if it's the cooler or if it's the CPU.
The cooler I have is an air cooler called Lepa. I had it custom built at a PC shop and they said it's comparable to a higher end cooler. But, I wasn't feeling the cooler too much, I thought they ordered a Be quiet heatsink
Hmm… seems off. Gaming should never be that high of temp. D15 noctua was keeping mine in the 50 range gaming. Sometimes it would be nice to have spare parts to try things eh? Haha. What motherboard you have? What’s the voltage under load like c23?
the motherboard that I have is an MSI z690 Force Wi-Fi, it's the white version of the MSI MAG Carbon z690, I believe which if not mistaken got record breaking performance on 12th Gen intel
EDIT: Cinebench, I have yet to use. never used it before but I'll go grab it and post back results
I know that the plural of anecdote is not data, but I have both the Thermal Grizzly and the Thermalright frames here (the former on my 12700K, and the latter on my wife's 12600K), and both gave about a 6-7C drop in temperatures. YMMV.
I can't even allow Cinebench to finish as within seconds it instantly hits 100c on some cores, So, I wasn't able to check the voltages
Yea man I would pull that cooler and check paste pattern or find another cooler to try. Shouldn’t 100c instantly. Bios settings won’t be that far off.
Did you update to the latest bios ?
Yeah, I didn't think it should hit that as well, at least not that fast. I have not updated to the latest BIOS at all.
Ok. Well updating to latest bios would be quick before tearing it apart.
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Is this the cooler?
www.newegg.com
If so that is not going to cut it, its only 4 heatpipes with no baseplate to cool.
You need something with 5-6 heatpipes at least.
LEPA NEOllusion RGB High Performance CPU Cooler 200W+ - Newegg.com
Buy LEPA NEOllusion RGB High Performance 200W+ TDP, for Intel/ AMD Universal Socket, AM4 / LGA 1700/1200/1151, 4 Direct Contact Heat Pipes, 120mm Silent PWM Fan LGA 1700 Compatible with fast shipping and top-rated customer service. Once you know, you Newegg!
If so that is not going to cut it, its only 4 heatpipes with no baseplate to cool.
You need something with 5-6 heatpipes at least.
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70 to 80C is perfectly normal, especially with an air cooler; 90C? 100C when gaming?? TOTALLY NOT normal at all. What clock speeds are you running at and are you properly managing voltages?
Here's my own 12700KF at 52P/41E after some hours of playing Battlefield V at 1600p UW resolution; the capture at Youtube renders as 4K so you might have to chose the 4K option and watch full screen depending on your monitor as the OSD performance data is kind of in a small typeface ... but I generally see temps in the mid 50C range with the occasional spike to 60C and that's with a rather hot overclock for a 12700KF:
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And here's some Dying Light 2, also at 1600p UW ... only with a slightly lower clock speed of 51P/40E ... still... CPU generally hovers in the 40C to 50C range ...
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You can see the system details for each video by expanding the details view for each...
NO GAME I play regularly (I play a lot) ever sees anything remotely close to 70 or 80 much less 90C or 100C. There's something up there for sure ...
I'd def recommend spending the $15 bucks on a Thermalright 12th Gen frame; lowered my own 12700KF from 86C to 75C running Cinebench R23 loops ... only world of advice is to be careful when torqueing the frame down, tighten the torque screws in the typical X pattern but only until you first feel the slightest tension and then do each once more but only turn each a bit less than a quarter turn more... you'll notice when you remove the stock ILM bracket that it's torque screws feel like they weren't tightened at all ... this is by design. Overtightening either the stock ILM screws or the frame screws can cause all sorts of issues with memory stability; I found out the hard way lol
What motherboard are you using? I may be able to suggest some test settings that might help depending on what board you have.
Best of luck, mate ...
@edkieferlp Yes, that is my cooler. I didn't want it, wanted the Be Quiet but was told same performance.
@tubs2x4 I might update it today. Just been a while since I've done a Bios update
@s1rrah the board I have is MSI MPG Z690 Force, basically the carbon but in white
@tubs2x4 I might update it today. Just been a while since I've done a Bios update
@s1rrah the board I have is MSI MPG Z690 Force, basically the carbon but in white
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Thanks. Unfortunately, I was unable to find any in depth details on your particular MSI MB bios settings so can't make any real suggestions there other than to simply run "optimized defaults" until you solve your obvious problem, otherwise.
That said? I re read your thread and can make a couple of simple suggestions that I would try immediately:
1. Purchase the Thermalright Correction frame: $15 at Amazon. It takes about 15 minutes to install and requires care in only a couple of important parts of the process -- (1) when removing the stock ILM bracket and throughout the installation of the Thermalright Frame? Leave your CPU socketed; its not worth removing it and possibly boinking any socket pins -- (2) Note how very slight the original ILM torque screws are tightened and use this as a gauge for when you mount/torque down your new Thermalright frame. Each of the four torque screws should be tightened until the very first sign of tension, then only a mere 1/4 turn more is necessary to secure the frame (45 degrees)
2. Try a Different CPU Cooler: I did the slightest bit of research on Lepa coolers and other than never hearing of such? I can't otherwise comment on their effectiveness. Try something else and stick with top end Noctua, Be Quiet! or Thermalright air coolers if air coolers are your thing. Buy the best reviewed and whatever is the best fit for your particular case.
If your curious about trying an AIO Liquid CPU cooler? I can highly recommend the Corsair H115i XT Pro as I have found it to be phenomenal, both with my monstrously overclocked previous 8086K as well as my current, respectably clocked 12700KF system. The above in-game captures will confirm such.
3. The Cosair 5000x is a phenomenal case: and I would say one of the best available in the mid-tower segment; you chose wisely there, imo. I just built a new 12th gen rig for a buddy of mine and he used the 7000x RGB full tower and I admit a bit of jealousy as it's just so gorgeous and I could basically climb inside the thing and build it from the inside out LOL! (I have a Corsair 780T full tower BTW which I also love). So I don't think you should consider your case an issue at all.
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But 90C? Much less 100C?!! When gaming? Sh1za that indicates a serious issue, somewhere. I would focus on first a remount with your existing Lepa cooler and after installing the Thermalright Correction frame in place of your default ILM locking mechanism (feel free to PM me if you need any pointers/assistance with the install).
If that doesn't work? Try a whole new cooler. Why not a decent AIO like the Corsair H115i XT Pro?
Secondly, as mentioned, till you isolate the issue? Run your rig at bios level, "optimized defaults" across all areas of the rig (RAM/CPU/VOLTAGES/ETC.). Once you solve your obviously serious thermal problem? Then start experimenting with overclocking.
Thirdly? Try a new CPU cooler but also, after properly installing the ridiculously cheap (and in my case) ridiculously effective Thermalright Correction Frame.
Lastly? RMA your CPU and repeat all of the above.
Best of luck, mang...
~s1rrah
We have two of the 5000s here -- my only regret was going with the solid front panel, for understated looks over function; I thought that the side vents in front would provide enough circulation. I ended up ordering top and front airflow panels for both of them from Corsair, which in my case ended up being necessary because I never planned on front-mounting my CPU radiator, which was necessary after I converted the 3080Ti to hybrid cooling.
Best case I ever bought. Only regret is that they're a little stuffy under the PSU shroud for mechanical drives, but that's on me for still using them in the 21st century. I put an 80mm BeQuiet fan under there, and they're down in the 30s now.
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I love Corsair cases and have used them for ages; the 7000x RGB was my first time building a rig that used the back pane mounted fan/RGB hubs and I'm not sure I like that much as I'm more of a NON-RGB guy and to this day still control all of my case fans with analogue fan controllers LOL; but it was still a fun case to work with.
I bought my first Corsair 780T about five years ago; about a year ago, I had a drunken but friendly, straight up MMA-like wrestling match with a roommate and we ended up banging that original build about the room a good bit (don't ask); the system was never the same after that, constantly rebooting, etc. Simply opening and closing the side panel would crash the system.
After a bunch of open-air component testing/troubleshooting? I ended finding the problem to be a warped case (due to our epic battle) and so I was lucky enough to find a "like new" 780T replacement on Ebay (Houston local pickup) for $75.00 about a year ago; I was so stoked as that particular case is aging and can be difficult to source.
Still loving it. Checks all the boxes for me:
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Also, due to having to replace my original 780T? I suddenly had extra side/top/front panels and was able to realize my long standing dream of cutting two 140mm exhaust holes in one of the extra acrylic side panels to assist with exhaust duty; I situated the two exhaust holes level with and a bit above the 3080 ti "fusion reactor" lol ... and it worked pretty good (-2C drop on GPU load temps and a +10C increase in room ambients *****!.
Plus, I'd always wanted to try using a hole saw on acrylic and it worked pretty great. I used a standard issue hole saw, slow RPM's, occasional flipping of the panel and a little dishsoap mixed with water to lubricate things. I tend to more enjoy the look of the unmodified acrylic panel but it's fun having the second, exhausting panel option as well:
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But best of luck with your temp issue. As I and others have said? 90C/100C when gaming? That's 100% BROKEN.
Keep us posted as to what you find...
~s1rrah
Thanks, I actually am starting to think it's the cooler like someone else mentioned on here. I'll definitely be looking to change that to an AIO. I just never dealt with AIOs before. Is it better to go bigger rad? I do want to get into overclocking but I also don't want to get too crazy either.
@s1rrah what Temps are you getting with that cooler and I have a white build currently. Is the corsair h115i elite cappelix rgb same as yours? Worse performance?
@s1rrah what Temps are you getting with that cooler and I have a white build currently. Is the corsair h115i elite cappelix rgb same as yours? Worse performance?
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