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after i repaste i put the gpu board with backplate on the heatsink and i tighten the 4 screws
i did not disassemble the backplate from the gpu board
You may need to do a washer mode.
 
With the 23.7.1 drivers, The power draw has gone down by 10-15W from 42-45W to 30W when on idle and light browsing, but only if you set desktop to a high refresh rate in windows and use AMD Freesync.

Never noticed this behaviour before, seems like a nice bonus
FYI
Gigabyte M32U monitor, Nitro+ 7900xtx(watercooled)
 
With the 23.7.1 drivers, The power draw has gone down by 10-15W from 42-45W to 30W when on idle and light browsing, but only if you set desktop to a high refresh rate in windows and use AMD Freesync.

Never noticed this behaviour before, seems like a nice bonus
FYI
Gigabyte M32U monitor, Nitro+ 7900xtx(watercooled)
I've noticed that since the previous driver, where 175hz + 60hz would draw 30W (however 120hz + 60hz would draw 90W lol), instead of the usual 45-50W. No improvments with 23.7.1.
 
With the 23.7.1 drivers, The power draw has gone down by 10-15W from 42-45W to 30W when on idle and light browsing, but only if you set desktop to a high refresh rate in windows and use AMD Freesync.

Never noticed this behaviour before, seems like a nice bonus
FYI
Gigabyte M32U monitor, Nitro+ 7900xtx(watercooled)
Mine idles at about 8w and seems to use less when gaming too and runs a few degrees cooler.
 
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GPU 3000-3100Mhz, VRAM 2740Mhz, +15% PL, 970mV (real) 1040mV set in Radeon Software.
That's max for me.
 
What bios? IE: What TBP?

Also which reading are you using to get the 'real' voltage? GPU Core Voltage (VDDCR-GFX) in HWinfo?
Yes, that voltage (RTSS also shows same voltage value).
Stock bios for Asrock Phantom Gaming OC (If I understand it correctly I can't flash different bios without external flash eeprom device)
TBP 447W

Rectangle Font Screenshot Technology Software
 
Yes, that voltage (RTSS also shows same voltage value).
Stock bios for Asrock Phantom Gaming OC (If I understand it correctly I can't flash different bios without external flash eeprom device)
TBP 447W
Cheers. I need to bite the bullet and replace my 5800X with a 5800X3D.
I'm #2 in the world for Port Royal with a 7900 XTX and 5800X, but at 17807 score it's not even good enough for top #100 with a 5800X3D.

Yes you need an external device to cross-flash (between brands). You should see if the 480W (550W with PL +15%) Asrock Aqua bios will flash to your card, the exe is here:
ASRock > AMD Radeon™ RX 7900 XTX AQUA 24GB OC
Don't worry about testing it, if the SSID for your Phantom Gaming doesn't match what the exe expects then it just won't run (see below)... worth a try though as it's an Asrock card so perhaps SSID will match?

Image


I've just cross-flashed my Powercolor reference card with the stock aqua bios (using a CH141a) and installed an EK block - will install it in my rig soon and should be running 550W before too long!!
 
Hello .i have a strange issue here regrading to XFX Merc 310 RX 7900 XT
first as i said before i bought the brand new card as all did after while i noticed that my hotspot became very high and delta reaches between 40 to 45 degree..i contacted XFX they told me to RMA the card but i can not because it will cost me more money here in my country so they told me that i can repaste without voiding warranty.
second : after alot of talking i decided to repaste ..i used MX-4 to repaste ...after i repasted my card it gave me amazing results but for only 5 days then the hotspot became high again also my delta then i thought i repasted wrongly so i decided to repaste again using the same MX-4
Third: i decided to repaste again but when i was taking apart my card i found this the paste looks very strange i do not know why ..the pate looks very little in this place in the picture ..
fourth : i repsted again and i made the paste very uniformity on the gpu and it gave me amazing reults again but after a short period the hotspot became high again ..
now i do not know what is the wrong ..
is it the thermal paste or there is a defect in the heat sink design ??
i hope someone help me

EDIT: i read about pump out effect.. so do photos show this effect , if so how can i solve this problem?

View attachment 2620244
View attachment 2620245
Thermal right TFX my friend. It's the best thermal paste for GPUs to avoid pump out. That thing is thick as molasses and I have used and after months now the temps are the same. Just make sure to put it in a zip loc bag and sumerge it in hot water to heat it up to make it easier to spread, and use a lot, I used almost a full 2g syringe! Plenty of peeps using it in the Merc 310s thread with great results as me and recommending it for our cards!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thermal right TFX my friend. It's the best thermal paste for GPUs to avoid pump out. That thing is thick as molasses and I have used and after months now the temps are the same. Just make sure to put it in a zip loc bag and sumerge it in hot water to heat it up to make it easier to spread, and use a lot, I used almost a full 2g syringe! Plenty of peeps using it in the Merc 310s thread with great results as me and recommending it for our cards!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
did you see my photo , is there any problem with my heatsink ?
 
i dont know what is problem , but if you see photo you will see i have a bad contact between heatsink and the half of gpu chip
What you are seen is almost what absolutely all 3 and 4 Series NVIDIA cards owners dealing with. AMD's die isn't as convex as NVIDIA's, but the effect is the same.
AMD's die might be a slightly uneven due to chiplets or coolers not making perfect contact just because so your half of the die is exposed after while. You can minimize the effect of paste pumping out, running out on any side under heat by making few adjustments.

TFX is the only paste that will try to stay on the die the way you spread it without thinning itself out under heat and shifting, but the secret is to literally spread as thick as you can so where the die is uneven, the paste will fill the gap while still transferring the heat, but you want the paste to hardened and stay where the gap is, although eventually that will fail as well, but not as quickly as some of the supposedly "good pastes"

To give you an example, I did my Strix 3090 at least 10 times till first of all, I end up using the right pads thickness and I literally used about 2g of TFX to make it work. I know its 2g because I got several of 2g TFX from Amazon so pretty much one tube was spread on the die.

Its been months now with very little change in all temps.

TFX or TF9 is your best paste to use on GPU's. I also use on my 5950X and its been 2 years now with stunning temps. Its a carbon base paste, lasts for ever.
 
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What you are seen is almost what absolutely all 3 and 4 Series NVIDIA cards owners dealing with. AMD's die isn't as convex as NVIDIA's, but the effect is the same.
AMD's die might be a slightly uneven due to chiplets or coolers not making perfect contact just because so your half of the die is exposed after while. You can minimize the effect of paste pumping out, running out on any side under heat by making few adjustments.

TFX is the only paste that will try to stay on the die the way you spread it without thinning itself out under heat and shifting, but the secret is to literally spread as thick as you can so where the die is uneven, the paste will fill the gap while still transferring the heat, but you want the paste to hardened and stay where the gap is, although eventually that will fail as well, but not as quickly as some of the supposedly "good pastes"

To give you an example, I redid my Strix 3090 at least 10 times till I end up using the right pads thickness and I literally used about 2g of TFX to make it work. I know its 2g because I got several of 2G TFX from Amazon so pretty much one tube was spread on the die.

Its been months now with very little change in all temps.
Pasted my block with TF-X yesterday. May not get a chance to install it for a few weeks (holidays), but excited to see the results.

The first two images you can see when I did a test fit (leaving the thermal pad protective plastic on), there were two areas of void.

Image


My current card (Pulse+) with Alphacool block and the supplied paste has seen GPU Hotspot temps degrade over time. I'm running about a 28C delta now compared to GPU temp, but it was

Image


So then I reapplied appropriate dabs across the block and should be good contact all the way now.

Image
 
View attachment 2620548

GPU 3000-3100Mhz, VRAM 2740Mhz, +15% PL, 970mV (real) 1040mV set in Radeon Software.
That's max for me.
What card make/model? Cooling? My AMD driver crashes with 3000 MHz set, 2700 memory, and voltage 1130. Trying to figure out why.
 
Cheers. I need to bite the bullet and replace my 5800X with a 5800X3D.
I'm #2 in the world for Port Royal with a 7900 XTX and 5800X, but at 17807 score it's not even good enough for top #100 with a 5800X3D.

Yes you need an external device to cross-flash (between brands). You should see if the 480W (550W with PL +15%) Asrock Aqua bios will flash to your card, the exe is here:
ASRock > AMD Radeon™ RX 7900 XTX AQUA 24GB OC
Don't worry about testing it, if the SSID for your Phantom Gaming doesn't match what the exe expects then it just won't run (see below)... worth a try though as it's an Asrock card so perhaps SSID will match?

Image


I've just cross-flashed my Powercolor reference card with the stock aqua bios (using a CH141a) and installed an EK block - will install it in my rig soon and should be running 550W before too long!!
Any harm in flashing ASrock Aqua to a Taichi if you have the power and cooling reqs via air?
 
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