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So I finally managed to remove the CPU. It still won't power on. The RGB LEDs on the VRM are on, as are the LEDS on the Start and Flex buttons.

What's curious is BIOS flashback doesn't proceed when the CPU is in the socket. I also removed the RAM. Flashback only proceeds and seems to go through the process (flashing blue that accelerates and then stops after the flashing is done) only when the CPU is in the socket.

I inspected the Gene and can't find any signs of physical damage. If the board was dead there shouldn't be any LEDS on. I'm out of ideas.

I also don't understand what happened. It's not like I shoved 2 volts on the RAM. Never touched LLC or any of the odd VRM settings.
Have you inspected the CPU pins? Also tried reseating the CPU?

It sounds really similar to what I had.

When your CPU is in the socket do you get the solid blue light?

I'm still convinced it's not the motherboard. I take it like me you don't have another CPU you can try?

how can your soc show 1.3v?
i use b650m hdv too,but zentiming show around 1.28v
Probably max LLC so there is very little voltage droop.
 
Have you inspected the CPU pins? Also tried reseating the CPU?

It sounds really similar to what I had.

When your CPU is in the socket do you get the solid blue light?

I'm still convinced it's not the motherboard. I take it like me you don't have another CPU you can try?
I have reinstalled the CPU and the motherboard pins look all right. When using BIOS flashback, the blue LEDs falsh slowly and then get faster and faster until it stops. It takes about 3-4 minutes.
 
Try 1 stick and make sure it is fully seated.
You can try psu paper clip test to rule the psu out. Having onboard led can mean 5vsb is working only. Do you have q-codes? Do your case fans turn on?
It's really not the RAM because I inserted a different set of RAM and nada. Also, BIOS flashback should work with no RAM and CPU in the slots.
Not the PSU either because the RGB LEDs on the motherboard are lit. But the board SHOULD respond to the Power on button regardless, don't you think?

The button doesn't respond at all with a CPU? I had that once or twice but usually sorted with pulling the power.

So your flashbacks are working without a CPU inserted?
Sorry, I meant to say no blue LEDs at all when the CPU is NOT in the socket. When it's in the socket, flashback seems to be working. But pressing the Start button doesn't do anything.

Next thing I'm going to do is remove the CMOS battery, but I'm too drained. I'll do that tomorrow.
 
It's really not the RAM because I inserted a different set of RAM and nada. Also, BIOS flashback should work with no RAM and CPU in the slots.
Not the PSU either because the RGB LEDs on the motherboard are lit. But the board SHOULD respond to the Power on button regardless, don't you think?


Sorry, I meant to say no blue LEDs at all when the CPU is NOT in the socket. When it's in the socket, flashback seems to be working. But pressing the Start button doesn't do anything.

Next thing I'm going to do is remove the CMOS battery, but I'm too drained. I'll do that tomorrow.
that is what i mean, led working do not discount psu problems especially if power button on dont work. do try the paper clip test, it also helps you can reseat the 24ping plug after.

have you put in the atx 8 pin plug too? some boards wont post without it.

definitely drain cmos battery too
 
tWTRL 16 if you can
tRDWR 12

Just a feeling, didn't test this specifically, but I think there is not much benefit of minimizing tRAS, try rather tRP 43 - tRAS 57 - tRC 100 and check if Karhu speed improves

otherwise overclock that CPU.. maybe just try to optimize all core boost in karhu by specifically lowering the cores with the highest vid per ccd with SMUDebugTool (FCLK + good cpu boost are important..and I doubt that dom's Karhu speed expectations are based on a stock CPU)
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It passed but I'm still pegged around 330.
 
6600 1:1 is a thing now with the Gene.

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Bandwidth is amazing, latency too considering how loose the timings are. I do need a LOT of voltage to run it in terms of VDDG/MDDMISC/VDDIO but it seems fine. I can lower them 1 by 1 when I know it's stable after a few hours. No Nitro being used btw. It's disabled still.

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Anyone have recommendations on what I can try and improve here? I've tried pushing to 6200 at CL28 but kept getting errors with many different combinations, including higher & lower SOCs, upped VDD and more. Not sure if I can get it stable that way.

At 6000 CL28, right now I've SOC set at 1.25, VDDIO at 1.3, VDD at 1.43 and VDDQ at 1.35. FCLK 2133 seems to give the best performance latency wise. GDM is disabled. What more could I improve? I've tried lowering tRCD and TRP to 35, reducing tRFC etc but could not get those stable.

I'm also open to trying 7200+ speeds if you think my board and RAM (M die) might be able to push it, and if it would actually be worth trying from a gaming and light productivity perspective (i.e. potential for decent gains), as long as I don't push voltages to more extreme levels.

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Hello,

I am using 4x32 GB ddr5 ram. Even though it was difficult, I was able to boot at 5600Mt/s frequency. But in TestMem5, I start getting errors after 1.5 hours. Which parameters should I change to prevent errors? Also, the temperature of DIMM0 is extremely low compared to the others, I wonder why. Additionally, since I could not boot with the Tertiäre Timings (SC + SD + DD) values in the DDR5 Timing Calculator for AMD V0008, I gave my own values.

Thanks.

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Anyone have recommendations on what I can try and improve here? I've tried pushing to 6200 at CL28 but kept getting errors with many different combinations, including higher & lower SOCs, upped VDD and more. Not sure if I can get it stable that way.

At 6000 CL28, right now I've SOC set at 1.25, VDDIO at 1.3, VDD at 1.43 and VDDQ at 1.35. FCLK 2133 seems to give the best performance latency wise. GDM is disabled. What more could I improve? I've tried lowering tRCD and TRP to 35, reducing tRFC etc but could not get those stable.

I'm also open to trying 7200+ speeds if you think my board and RAM (M die) might be able to push it, and if it would actually be worth trying from a gaming and light productivity perspective (i.e. potential for decent gains), as long as I don't push voltages to more extreme levels.

View attachment 2650309
If you have M-die you can forget about higher frequency speeds. Sure you need to go 8000 or higher to see improvements at 2:1 vs 1:1.
 
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