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Interesting, I hadn't thought to check the voltage coming into the card. I'm seeing 11.7v~ for "16-pin HVPWR" and 11.6V for "PCIe +12v input" in HWinfo64.

Did the voltage at the card go up much with a different cable?

I'm not worried about it, not right now at least, as my card is working fine and I have temperature monitoring on the cable connectors.
My card reports 11.928v under load.

My PSU is a 2021 RM850x with the original replacement 12VHPWR cable from Corsair.
 
Interesting, I hadn't thought to check the voltage coming into the card. I'm seeing 11.7v~ for "16-pin HVPWR" and 11.6V for "PCIe +12v input" in HWinfo64.

Did the voltage at the card go up much with a different cable?

I'm not worried about it, not right now at least, as my card is working fine and I have temperature monitoring on the cable connectors.
Since your motherboard and cable were reading very similar low voltages I would start to think the PSU is actually what is suspect, not the cable in your case.

FWIW, I see 12.0-12.1v under heavy loads (400w+) on my 16pin cable.
 
Interesting, I hadn't thought to check the voltage coming into the card. I'm seeing 11.7v~ for "16-pin HVPWR" and 11.6V for "PCIe +12v input" in HWinfo64.

Did the voltage at the card go up much with a different cable?

I'm not worried about it, not right now at least, as my card is working fine and I have temperature monitoring on the cable connectors.
Haven't checked yet but I have a screenshot of the Ventus with this PSU and that read 12.21 idle 12.13 load so it should be better. Or so I hope lol. At least the card doesn't go mental at the slightest bump to the case anymore so.

Ran a few missions in TD2 at my normal 3240 @ 1.055v curve and it seems perfectly happy so far. 67.3c max core 64c VRAM @ 53% fan speed and 388w max power. Average around 335-340w.

EDIT: GPU-Z shows 11.99v now idle. Better than it was.
 
Set up a bunch of different curve editor profiles.

Using a heavier load (NFS Unbound) that draws a lot more power and can almost max out the power limit at 1.125v. All profiles used +3000 VRAM which maxed out at 64c and Auto fan speed of the Zotac Apocalypse BIOS.

3330 @ 1.115v = 435w draw at 70-71c with 56% fan speed.
3240 @ 1.055v = 384w draw at 65-66c with 51% fan speed.
3150 @ 1.020v = 353w draw at 62-63c with 47% fan speed.
3080 @ 0.970v = 313w draw at 58-59c with 42% fan speed.

This card scales really really well with curve editor. It's just a shame it can't clock above 3330 ish stable. It'll run 3dmark at 3390 just fine but crashes in games after ~10 minutes when pushing above 3340 even at 1.115v.

Even the lowest profile 3080 @ 0.970 is still almost 100Mhz above stock boost and draws a ton less power and the fans barely spin up.

I think if I keep the stock boost which is ~2985Mhz I could probably get away with like 0.940v ish which wouldn't even crack 300w in 3dmark.
Just tried this setting of yours. 3080 @0.970, Mem +3000

Ok this is really good. Speedway 10032, Steel Nomad 9732 and peak 380W.

Ran Black Myth Wukong Bench Tool, did few runs. It is mainly GPU bound title. 8% FPS increase from stock vbios and peak 282W

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380W only.
 
Just got myself a 5080 Galax 1-Click OC. Not the greatest but definitely the cheapest ;-) Overclock is OK'ish just about hitting 3200MHz but I was wondering about what BIOS would be best to flash to enable 450W max.
Also, the card is set to 111% and should get to just under 400W but for the most part it sits around 350W BUT allegedly the power limit has been hit or at least the graph for that sits on 1. Am I missing something?

TIA
 
Just got myself a 5080 Galax 1-Click OC. Not the greatest but definitely the cheapest ;-) Overclock is OK'ish just about hitting 3200MHz but I was wondering about what BIOS would be best to flash to enable 450W max.
Also, the card is set to 111% and should get to just under 400W but for the most part it sits around 350W BUT allegedly the power limit has been hit or at least the graph for that sits on 1. Am I missing something?

TIA
I would try the Zotac Apocalypse BIOS. So far that seems to run on any reference style PCB card just fine and allows for good voltage control and fan speeds in general.

This one:

Be careful with the cooling tho. The temps can rise quite quickly when pushing past 380w ish.
 
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I would try the Zotac Apocalypse BIOS. So far that seems to run on any reference style PCB card just fine and allows for good voltage control and fan speeds in general.

This one:

Be careful with the cooling tho. The temps can rise quite quickly when pushing past 380w ish.
Done. Thank you!

I'll see how I go with it but I'm not expecting much. It was the only MSRP 5080 I could get so I can't really complain.
 
On a cooler they say the inductors and maybe the VRM's could work with thermal pads and average putty so the cooler can concentrate more on the VRAM and core, because of the thermal limits of the cooler. 30g pot of TG Putty Pro for the VRAM, it pulls so far ahead of the rest. I'll have to buy some now.

EDIT: HWINFO64 shows +12v Input voltage ~11.99v idle, 11.94v load, 16 pin HVPWR ~12.08v idle, 11.96v load
 
Are any of these bioses compatible with the 5080 Founders Edition, preferably a quiet bios? I would love bios with a minimum fan speed of less than 1200 RPM / 30 %. My setup runs cool enough to allow this. The fans on my previous ASUS TUF 5070ti on the quiet bios were hardly audible on full load, around 66-67 °C, and ran around 1000 rpm.
 
I have the same card and BIOS. I did liquid metal and putty swap mine tho. Temps on auto fan curve got to about 67c in 3dmark at 420w. Same clocks as well but your score is way higher especially in steel nomad. Mine was only 9398. And it's a fresh windows 10 install. I was on the older 572 driver tho. Which driver did you run? 576?
576 tends to give around 3 fps extra on Steel Nomad for some reason, which is pretty much the difference between yours and theirs.
 
I finally grabbed myself by the balls and flashed my Inno3D RTX 5080 X3 OC. I chose the Zotac Amp Inifinity Ultra BIOS (415W) and... It's pretty disappointing.

I went from 92.7 best Steel Nomad score with the stock BIOS (576 hotfix driver, it was 90 fps with the previous one) to 97.23 with an unstable OC (insta crash in games). So I gained 4.5 fps in Steel Nomad at 415W. Also went from 65C with maxed out fans (2500rpm) to 72C at the same speed. Stock Zotac fan curve doesn't suit this card really well, it tends to hover around 75C way too much for my liking. It's way quieter, I'll give it that. The Zotac BIOS lets the fans go all the way up to 3000rpm, and they do indeed spin at that speed, but the stock BIOS maxed out at 2500rpm so no clue if it's safe to run them at 3000rpm with the Zotac BIOS. 0 fan rpm works much better though. With the stock BIOS the fans would randomly turn on at 30% and it was pretty annoying.

Overall I'm not really impressed. Boost clocks in Steel Nomad are exactly the same as with the stock BIOS, maybe a tiny bit higher (around 3180mhz vs 3120mhz). So it seems to be a silicon lottery loser as anything beyond 3200mhz insta crashed in Steel Nomad and in most games too.

Now, if I also gained 4-5 fps in games I would be happy, but I didn't. There is literally 0 difference between the stock BIOS @360W and the Zotac BIOS @415W. This is because the card never even pulled the stock 360W to begin with. Cyberpunk 2077 for example sits at around 320W. Of course there is no performance improvement with a higher power limit.

It could be due to cooler not dealing with the heat well enough. Maybe there's better stability to be had with bigger cooler or whatever. But overall, disappointing. Not worth the heartache you get while flashing the card.

The flashing process itself went smooth as butter. I took a whole bunch of precautions (stock motherboard BIOS settings, stock GPU settings, killed all processes, unplugged everything except 1 monitor and keyboard, disabled the GPU before flashing) but since this card doesn't have dual BIOSes I still shat my pants throughout the process.

TLDR: Don't bother if you're not watercooling.
 
Are any of these bioses compatible with the 5080 Founders Edition, preferably a quiet bios? I would love bios with a minimum fan speed of less than 1200 RPM / 30 %. My setup runs cool enough to allow this. The fans on my previous ASUS TUF 5070ti on the quiet bios were hardly audible on full load, around 66-67 °C, and ran around 1000 rpm.
All BIOSes have a minimum fan speed of 30%. Nvidia limitation.
 
Since your motherboard and cable were reading very similar low voltages I would start to think the PSU is actually what is suspect, not the cable in your case.

FWIW, I see 12.0-12.1v under heavy loads (400w+) on my 16pin cable.
It's hard to say. I'm inclined to trust the PSU more than anything else that is giving a voltage readout, simply because it's one of the best PSUs available on the market; an AX1600i.

The PSU has it's own monitoring that I can view, and it shows a consistent output between 12.03v and 12.06v (EDIT: Just checked, and my Crosshair VIII Dark Hero is showing 12.04v). The cables and connectors aren't creating any excess heat, so I'm happy to just leave it as it is.

I'm currently using the adapter cable that came with the card, but I do have a 90° Corsair cable that I intend to swap to when I get my waterblock. I haven't swapped the cable over at the moment, as I don't see the point my system apart to change the cable, and then having to do the same again when I come to fit the water block, so I'll just wait and do it all at the same time. I'll definitely be checking to see if there's a difference in voltage input to the graphics card after changing things around. Perhaps the extra connections between the PSU and graphics card are causing the drop.

The Commander Pro's I have in my system also have voltage monitoring, and those show around 11.87v, and those definitely aren't pulling enough current to be seeing such a voltage drop, so I'm inclined to think the AX1600i simply has more accurate voltage monitoring.

Perhaps I'll have to stick my multimeter in the end of a cable and see! But then it's still a case of £500+ PSU vs £10 multimeter :LOL:

All BIOSes have a minimum fan speed of 30%. Nvidia limitation.
Don't you mean 0%? Most cards should have the fan-stop feature.

There's also an aspect of it being a limitation of the actual fans. Fans don't start up very well if you lower the speed too much. (There are ways around this of course).
 
Ok, i'm a little confused here to why my score doesnot reflect my Core clock increase? how are others getting a higher score with a much lower core clock?
Im wondering if i need a clean install of windows or something. any ideas
i'm pretty much registering the highest core clock on the whole leaderboard
Preview of gallery image.
 
Ok, i'm a little confused here to why my score doesnot reflect my Core clock increase? how are others getting a higher score with a much lower core clock?
Im wondering if i need a clean install of windows or something. any ideas
i'm pretty much registering the highest core clock on the whole leaderboard
Preview of gallery image.
Compare average clocks, that one just reflects the peak observed clock I believe.
 
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