Probably your airflow. What chassis? What fans and how are they setup? Filling out your sig rig in your profile will help us help you.

 

Even having the case open doesnt help...
Fractal design define r4 with 6x silent wings 3 pwm (2of them on rad)
Front intake and rad in front also with push pull.
Two exhaust on top one exhaust on back.
I had a 1080 ti with arctic accelero 3 aircooler before and it ran 53 degrees...
No clue how a hybrid can perform so much worse,the rad is like finger burn hot.

 

Tthat's weird, your airflow isn't ideal but that's plenty of cooling. What fan speeds are the rad fans running at?

Accelero 3 is actually an equivalent performer but with better VRM cooling than most of these hybrid kits. The fan curve is probably much more aggressive coming from your GPU header than whatever your radiator setup is, so I'd check that first.

If it's not fan speeds, try turning the chassis so that the radiator is above the pump and see if that helps work out the pump noises and temperatures - that pump noise is not uncommon from some air bubbles from an inadequately filled CLC. Could also just be a poor mount from the factory.

Other than that, beats me

As an aside, I do think you downgraded moving from the Accelero to the CLC, but that's just me

Edit: Also, it is not unusual for a radiator to get hot, so no worries there

 

I can have them run at 100% (1200rpm) and it doesnt change anythng.
I tried the rad also outside the case on top, still finger burning hot rad...
So could it be that there isnt enough water in it?

 

Assuming stock clocks and voltages, that'd be my guess. Core temps generally keep climbing if it's the mount.

I'd exchange/return/RMA/go back to the Accelero

 

Not surprised at all. A single 120mm radiator is usually rated at 100w at 10C delta water-air with 1GPM flow rate, 1300RPM push or pull config. Gtx1080ti generates 300w of heat at full load, which mean 30c water-air delta. You can expect your water temp to be 30c higher than ambient temp after a long session of gaming/benchmarking. On top of the water-air delta C, you still have 10C GPU-water delta C. It means given air temp to be 20C, you'll have 50C water temp and 60C GPU temp. All are expected.

 

Besides what everyone else already said, shake your case around while the system is running. If the rad is very hot, then it's very likely that there is some trapped air in the loop. Shaking it around may free the trapped air.

 

I'm always curious why people try measuring temperatures with their hands/fingers. Skin is meant to be pretty sensitive to temps, so whatever is too hot for your fingers isn't necessarily too hot for the component.

 

Did you accidentally mount both fans to push toward the rad? Not that I've done that before...

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luckbad

Did you accidentally mount both fans to push toward the rad? Not that I've done that before...

Me neither....

 

Hello, There I can confirm that your card is faulty , I have two of them in SLI and they never go over 47 C no matter how much i stress them , i do have a better airflow then yours though on my 750D , I had previously had the 980 TI hybrids and I used to run a push pull on them and they temps used to hit 55- 60 C when i got my SC2 Hybrids the cards ran so well that i removed the push pull fans and left it with the stock fans , THEY NEVER GO ABOVE 47c . I would RMA the cards ASAP , if you could return it and get the FTW 3 Hybrid it should be out within couple of weeks , the diffrance is dual bios and RGB and dual 8 pin power .

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by itssladenlol

Hello everyone,

Just got my 1080 ti sc2 hybrid and im kinda confused.
I have 2 fans on the rad in push pull.
Idle temp is 30degree but on load it hits over 60degrees and now whats weird...the radiator is so hot im burning my fingers when i touch it...
Is that normal?
Pump makes some weird buzz noise also but im sure its running.
Cant understand how some people get 45 under load

If the radiator is really hot, it means that the internal fluid temperatures are high but there is still flow so its unlikely to be a pump issue. Hmmmm, let me think, have you tried running just one fan and see if it makes a difference? Also try to shake the radiator around a bit to make sure theres no air bubbles pooling at the top of the rad (i.e. try and get the inlet/outlet threads sitting on top of the rad instead of the opposite. If that fixes the problem, you gotta RMA the card because QA allowed too much air bubbles in to the loop which you cannot refill.

 

Another thing that bothers me, i can feel the pump is running but it does an absurd amount of buzz.
Could air trapped insids really the puoblem?
Tried different mount positions but stays same.
Silicon lottery wss good tho, can do 2050@1,031 but temp and noise makes me crazy and im thinking of rma to get another hybrid.
Only thing left to try is stock fan, maybe my bequiet are crap for rads

 

SW3 is a great rad fan, it's just that CLCs are junk - pumps are all buzzy, radiators are too dense, and coolant evaporates over time. No need to tinker - it should just work, although Aseteks build quality and commitment to innovation speaks to their QC

P.S. Gotta ask - why go from an Accelero to a CLC? The Accelero ought to perform as well as any CLC with less noise and better VRM temperatures.

 

Im so pissed right now...
Pump noise here, noise everywhere and i hit 69degree in heaven after 5minutes.
I thought aio is the way to go since everyone braggs about temps in the 40s and no noise...
Im so stupid for getting rid of the accelero cooler...

 

Is it too late to return/exchange? If not, you should be able to RMA it.

The issues you are having are unusual and are probably due to a bad unit. I have a bias towards these coolers because of their build quality (and Asetek's control over the market) and because I am picky about noise, but for the vast majority of users CLCs function just fine (low temps and not much more noise than I dunno an average 1400rpm fan, once fan speeds are adjusted).

If you can't return/exchange it I'd try and RMA - it should be running much cooler and without obvious issues. I've owned a few dozen of these units and while I'm not partial to them, they shouldn't be as bad as what you are experiencing.

If you do want to go back to air and don't have that Accelero, there's the Morpheus and MK-26 and a few other triple-slot coolers that perform about as well as CLCs on GPUs but without any of the nit picks (well, except for the weight

).

 

Where is the rad mounted? I think these hybrids are really picky. I had a bottom mounted one that the pump would NOT pick up any water, spiked up to 90C and I had to close my computer down ASAP.

What worked for me was taking the card out and the rad out, rotate them around for a second to move the air and water, and ensure to have the rad above the card. also try to have the hoses underneath if you are mounting vertically.

If you are mounting on the top of the case and still having these issues, I would just RMA it.

 

I have a setup similar to yours. My temps usually max out at 64C with 2x silentwings 3 in p/p...but that's with a shunt mod and the card being locked at 1.093v (while cooling the extra stuff an Xp has). To rule out airflow issues, test again with the side panel open.

 

How is your radiator mounted?
Are the tubes facing upwards or down?

Its suggested to keep them facing down, so that air will stay in the top part of the rad and not keep circulating the loop.

 

I actually am using a Titan Xp (2107 model), with an EVGA Hybrid cooler installed. While it's not the exact model that you have, it is very similar.
I also am having somewhat similar results as you.

I am using two Corsair SP120 in a push pull configuration. These are low RPM fans, designed for lower noise and high static pressure. They are connected directly to my motherboard, so they will run slow no matter how hot the GPU becomes. Ideally you would want the radiator fan speed to be controller by the GPU temperature. Otherwise the fans will not speed up when they are needed.

My Titan Xp is clocked to 2050Mhz on the core, but will run at 1987Mhz stable after an hour or so of gaming.

With the fans being controlled by the motherboard BIOS my radiator is very hot to the touch. There is also some noise from the pump even at idle. To be honest I'm not very impressed with the quality or performance of the Hybrid kit.
The GPU core will register at about 54 to 57C in MSI Afterburner under 99% loads.

If I were you, I would check a few things before asking for an RMA.

• Fan Speed
  Are your fans low RPM models? If so, consider increasing the fan speed in the motherboard BIOS screen when you first boot your computer. The stock fan that EVGA ships with is meant to be controlled directly by the fan splitter on the GPU. This allows for the fan speed to the matched to GPU temperature.
• Fan Configuration
  Are you using the exact same models of fans? If you mix/match fans that isn't ideal.
• Pump Orientation
  Make sure your pump is positioned correctly.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

 

Ok guys so i fixed it, running benchs and games for 2 hrs straight and never saw above 47 degree.
What did i change? I installed the standard evga fan that came with the card back onto the rad and instant 47 max with 2050mhz.
I can surely say now that for rads, bequiet are the biggest garbage ever.
So now that i know my card is fine i ordered two of the ekwb vadar 120 rad fans and im happy now

 

The stock fan runs at something like 2200rpm on 12v, so it's no surprise you're getting lower temps. I cannot verify that rpm since there is no rpm sense pin soldered, but when comparing to my sp120l (2750rpm), it isn't far behind when playing by ear. Dialing down the rpm to 2000-2200 on the sp120l gave it a very very similar noise profile and fan speed noise as the evga fan. I peeled back the sticker on the evga fan, and there are terminals for an rpm sense and pwm signal, so it should be possible to read the rpm on this fan with some soldering.

Also, the Bequiet silentwings 3 and ek vardar fans are two of the best noise optimized 120mm rad fans out there. But no amount of R&D can overcome such a large rpm gap. The F2 120 and silentwings non-high speed both run at 1450rpm, so if you're getting the vardar fans of the same rpm as the silentwings you have, prepare to be disappointed.

The cooler has a high fpi, and as such, it scales well with fast fans.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by airisom2

The stock fan runs at something like 2200rpm on 12v, so it's no surprise you're getting lower temps. I cannot verify that rpm since there is no rpm sense pin soldered, but when comparing to my sp120l (2750rpm), it isn't far behind when playing by ear. Dialing down the rpm to 2000-2200 on the sp120l gave it a very very similar noise profile and fan speed noise as the evga fan. I peeled back the sticker on the evga fan, and there are terminals for an rpm sense and pwm signal, so it should be possible to read the rpm on this fan with some soldering.

Also, the Bequiet silentwings 3 and ek vardar fans are two of the best noise optimized 120mm rad fans out there. But no amount of R&D can overcome such a large rpm gap. The F2 120 and silentwings non-high speed both run at 1450rpm, so if you're getting the vardar fans of the same rpm as the silentwings you have, prepare to be disappointed.

The cooler has a high fpi, and as such, it scales well with fast fans.

The vadar i bought has 1850rpm and i think when i use 2 of them its way more quiet than the stock fan with same temps.
EKWB EK-Vardar F3-120 High Static Pressure 120mm Cooling Fan 1850rpm.
I have 5 bequiet in use as case fans and i love them ,but for my aio they just dont work, even at 100% i had 65+ temps.
Now 45.

 

Well, the Vardars use noisier dual ball bearings, so I hope you're not as sensitive to noisy bearings as I am. It was the main reason why I went with the silentwings instead of the Vardars. Two slower fans at 1850 will not be drastically quieter than a single ~2000rpm fan. You should expect similar noise levels and temperatures.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norlig

How is your radiator mounted?
Are the tubes facing upwards or down?

Its suggested to keep them facing down, so that air will stay in the top part of the rad and not keep circulating the loop.

I suggested the other way around to troubleshoot it because if the top half is filled with air, the rad efficiency is greatly reduced thus indicating an RMA.