This may be a very dumb question, but I was curious, is there any standard that allow us to identify if a cooler is working intake or exhausting just by looking at it? I mean, suppose it's turned off or that it's so weak that when turned off the air appears to be the same on both direction.
Is there any kind of sign in coolers to identify it?
Maybe side of the palettes?
Etc
For example, just looking for the cooler (without previous knowledge), would you say that this cooler on the following side is intake or exhaust? And why?
For example, just looking for the cooler (without previous knowledge), would you say that this cooler on the following side is intake or exhaust? And why?
For example, just looking for the cooler (without previous knowledge), would you say that this cooler on the following side is intake or exhaust? And why?
Thanks.
Is there a visual way to identify if a fan is intake or exhaust mode?
This may be a very dumb question, but I was curious, is there any standard that allow us to identify if a cooler is working intake or exhausting just by looking at it? I mean, suppose it's turned off or that it's so weak that when turned off the air appears to be the same on both direction.
Is there any kind of sign in coolers to identify it?
Maybe side of the palettes?
Etc
For example, just looking for the cooler (without previous knowledge), would you say that this cooler on the following side is intake or exhaust? And why?
For example, just looking for the cooler (without previous knowledge), would you say that this cooler on the following side is intake or exhaust? And why?
For example, just looking for the cooler (without previous knowledge), would you say that this cooler on the following side is intake or exhaust? And why?
Most of the time the fan will have an arrow somewhere on the frame showing which way the air flows, either a sticker or embossed on the plastic.
Stickers are the easiest way to tell though. The intake side will be the 'pretty' side, for example the side that is displayed in that Cooler Master Excalibur photo. The exhaust side will be the 'ugly' side with the fan details, serial number etc like in the second picture.
Method 1 - Most fans have arrows on the frame that indicate airflow direction and fan rotation direction
Method 2 - You can tell by looking at the fan. Airflow enters the fan on the side where the fan blades are convex (bowed outward)
Airflow exits the fan on the side where the fan blades are concave (bowed inward)
Method 3 - On many fans the brand name logo is on the intake side of the fan. If you turn the fan around you will find specifications for the actual fan (this would be the exhaust side of the fan) these specs. often include voltage specification, country of manufacture and model number.
Thanks a lot, it was very helpful, it helped a lot.
Just another dumb question that come to my mind. When we speak about air flow, I assume that all air flow is composed of intake and exhaust, right? Should I assume that all intake is cold air and exhaust is the hot air?
Easiest and most reliable way is to simply look at the fin geometry (method 2, by wevsspot's reckoning). This is almost never misleading, while location of the hub. stickers, and framework easily can be.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJXavier
Just another dumb question that come to my mind. When we speak about air flow, I assume that all air flow is composed of intake and exhaust, right? Should I assume that all intake is cold air and exhaust is the hot air?
So the intake and outtake do not necessary make the air more cold on this passing phase, right?
What do you mean by air dumped back? For example, suppose that I have an cooler as intake (inside) on the rear, so it will take the environment air (likely from processor) and send this "hot air" outside the chassis? Maybe a like colder?
Look at it this way: your fan moves air as hot or cold as is given to it. If you put a fan inside an oven (don't, unless you want your fan molten
) it's gonna move hot air. If it's in a fridge it's gonna move cold air. Now, when you have fan intaking air it passes through air that's room temp. It then goes past the hot components, such as GPU and CPU, transferring the heat from them into the air that's passing through, and finally to the exhaust fan. Now the air is hotter than it was when it was pulled into the case. That's what he meant by dumping hot air back, you see, fans itself dont change the temperature, it's the temp of the objects the it passes.
So the intake and outtake do not necessary make the air more cold on this passing phase, right?
What do you mean by air dumped back? For example, suppose that I have an cooler as intake (inside) on the rear, so it will take the environment air (likely from processor) and send this "hot air" outside the chassis? Maybe a like colder?
I think you might have misunderstood what he said.
Intake = sucks air from your room (environment).
Exhaust = blow air from the case, back into your room (environment).
Intake just means that the fan is positioned in a way which makes it suck, in most cases, cold air into your case. The air gets heated by the components. Exhaust tries to blow the heated air back into your room.
Air at room temp (intake) -> gets heated by components/cools down components -> hot air (exhaust)
Thanks for explanation, now it's more clear, basically is just move the air from one side to the other (intake to outtake) and the direction of the intake / outtake depends of the side that I plug the fan cooler.
I have three questions if you don't mind or other experienced users.
1) I see that he added a kind of semi-transparent sticky that when he turn on the cooler with leds give a nice view, they have a logo and a phrase from overclocking. Where can I buy similar stuff? Is it possible to by them customized?
Are some of them that could be acquired customized and also react with black neon light? Advises and suggestions are very welcome.
2) I see that he integrated a cooler on the chassis side even with acrylic window available, that's very nice. But I was curious, since the acrylic was not cut where the exhaust air goes to? is it really helping? What was used to fix the cooler on the acrylic?
3) He acquired 6 new powerful funs. I like the idea, should I use them with PWM splitter? If yes, how many coolers per PWM splitter do you advise? 3?
I have three questions if you don't mind or other experienced users.
1) I see that he added a kind of semi-transparent sticky that when he turn on the cooler with leds give a nice view, they have a logo and a phrase from overclocking. Where can I buy similar stuff? Is it possible to by them customized?
Are some of them that could be acquired customized and also react with black neon light? Advises and suggestions are very welcome.
2) I see that he integrated a cooler on the chassis side even with acrylic window available, that's very nice. But I was curious, since the acrylic was not cut where the exhaust air goes to? is it really helping? What was used to fix the cooler on the acrylic?
3) He acquired 6 new powerful funs. I like the idea, should I use them with PWM splitter? If yes, how many coolers per PWM splitter do you advise? 3?
1. I have no idea, i can only guess. Have you shot Shadowclock a PM -i dont even know if he's still active.
Otherwise, i assume that OCN has some kinda promo material.. check the OCN homepage.
Otherwise its just a co-incidence.. stick a transparant decal to a plexi plate, backlight it and have a much better effect as expected
2. I assume the plexi WAS cut, but probably done very clean... not the ragged ovals lotsa people end up with
3. PWM:..... The benefit of PWM is that almost all MB made in the last few years have at least ONE PWM header : CPU_FAN1
When using a PWM splitter hub (Swiftech 8-way) or an PWM splitter cable (Akasa AK-CBFA07-45), then you can control upto 8 PWM fans from one PWM header by using the BIOS or Speedfan (or similar software). It's easy, convenient doesn't take up a lot of room and you dont have to fiddle with knobs. The drawback is: PWM fans are more expensive as "normal" 3-pin Voltage fans.
And while you *can* control PWM fans with voltage (like most fan controllers do), most PWM fans do NOT like being voltage controlled, they will let their displeasure known in their audio profile
And you can NOT control 3-pin Voltage fans through PWM.
So, for these people who want to buy a Swiftech fan hub and then attach cheap 3-pin fans... you can NOT control those fans that way.
Either you do VOLTAGE with 3-pin (sometimes 2-pin) fans or you do PWM with 4-pin fans (if Dell 5-pin)
Now of course there ARE some special cases:
Sunbeamtech has a fan controllor which accepts a PWM input signal and uses it to control ordinairy voltage fans. The reviews of this controller are mixed.. and most of the time you'll be unable to find it anyways - its always sold out.
Now, Phanteks has FINALLY released its fan hub, it also uses PWM input control to control (upto 11) ordinairy voltage fans. This hub has been used in the Enthoo Primo and now also in the Pro & Luxe. Sofar the reports on this hub are positive.
However, most people just dont understand how it works. But this has probably a lot to do with:
1. MB makers claiming their MB has more PWM headers than they actually have (most MB have only ONE PWM header)
2. People who have been fascinated by bling led lights & shiny knobs & go faster stripes & AS5 now suddenly have to wrap their mind around the "advanced magic" which is PWM .
1) I PM'ed Shadowclock but unfortunately no answer, I guess he is not active anymore.
Yeah, I wanted a custom paint, it's not easy to get.
2) Interesting. Do you know what is the proper tool to cut acrylic? Maybe a drill?
3) This is the most nice part for sure. I have seen some people telling that even MB with multiple header fans they do not work properly. Mine say that I have the CPU header fun and 2 additional:
Do you have any experience with it? Do you know if the additional ones work and are safe to use for example with 2 Akasa AK-CBFA07-45? Or do you advocate in favor of Swiftech 8-way?
Yeah, I guess I will end up with just 4-pin fans, since I don't it's possible to have just 1 x 4-pin fans to get and set speed will not work with the other regular 3-pin fans.
Talking about fans, I have a CM 693. And I'm good to buy other fans.
My main preference is a really decent air cooling, but if LED is available it's a plus, but not essential.Would you recommend me to plug them all on PWM splitter? Such as 3 fan coolers per PWM Splitters?
Based on your large experience, what coolers do you suggest and connected to what PWM splitters?
1) I PM'ed Shadowclock but unfortunately no answer, I guess he is not active anymore.
Yeah, I wanted a custom paint, it's not easy to get.
2) Interesting. Do you know what is the proper tool to cut acrylic? Maybe a drill?
3) This is the most nice part for sure. I have seen some people telling that even MB with multiple header fans they do not work properly. Mine say that I have the CPU header fun and 2 additional:
Do you have any experience with it? Do you know if the additional ones work and are safe to use for example with 2 Akasa AK-CBFA07-45? Or do you advocate in favor of Swiftech 8-way?
Yeah, I guess I will end up with just 4-pin fans, since I don't it's possible to have just 1 x 4-pin fans to get and set speed will not work with the other regular 3-pin fans.
Talking about fans, I have a CM 693. And I'm good to buy other fans.
My main preference is a really decent air cooling, but if LED is available it's a plus, but not essential.Would you recommend me to plug them all on PWM splitter? Such as 3 fan coolers per PWM Splitters?
Based on your large experience, what coolers do you suggest and connected to what PWM splitters?
2. a watercutter (like the one they use to cut marble) , a CNC router, a drill (wood or metal), a fine metal handsaw, a dremel.... except for the watersaw, they all have one thing in common: you need the finest/smallest "teeth" you can find and proceed slowly otherwise the acryll will melt and it becomes ugly very fast. For holes, you need a hole saw/circle cutter (A decent one, not one of those $1.99 offers*), preferably an adjustable. Many acryll/plexi guides on the internets, google = friend. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hole_saw
3.3 None of the fans you've listed are "bad" fans; none of the fans you've listed are "good" fans. However, some are "better" in one role and "worse" in another role
the YLs are good if you are on budget, the Cougars use too many hype words, the AirPen... just get a Delta/SanAce , the GT-AP-13 are the little brother of the AP-15, so they are rather good, but remain the little brother
, the Noctua ... FUGLY , good fan if you can hide it. Note, half of those fans are not PWM
If you want a fan recommendation out me, i'll say Delta/SanAce or Noiseblocker eLOOP B12 PWM allover the case, so they ramp up based on your CPU's needs.
3.5: PWM splitters: practically, you are limited to 8 fans per PWM channel because of "signal loss". Sometimes more works, sometimes not. Which is why Akasa limits its cheap cables to 5-way. Swiftech hub is way better quality, thus 8-way. Now, here come the catch:
-The only 4-pin fan header on the MB we can be sure of to be PWM is the CPU_FAN header: you can hook a PWM hub/splitter to that and control 8 fans
-IF you have an 2nd independent PWM channel/header for example CHA_FAN1 : you can hook a 2nd PWM hub/splitter to that and control an additional 8 fans (= 16 fans)
However, these boards are rare, only workstation boards & really top-end boards are like that.
A lot of boards have a 2nd (or 3th) "PWM" fan header, but they are just a split from the CPU_FAN header... which means that you can hook a PWM hub/splitter to that and control the remaining available fans.
To explain better: if you hook a PWM splitter up to CPU_FAN1 and run 4 fans off that, then on CHA_FAN1 you can run a PWM splitter with 4 fans
The only way to know for sure if you have ONE or more PWM channels is to look in the bios settings: if you can set two different "ramps/curves" you have two channels, otherwise, you'll have only one.
IF the BIOS allows you to set a different target temp/speed % per fan header you're lucky.
This is difficult to explain without screenshots... and BIOS screenshots are difficult to take
Now, of course it doesn't help that a lot of MB nowadays look like they have all PWM 4-pin headers, but in reality all except CPU_FAN1 (and sometimes CPU_OPT or CHA_FAN1) tend to be voltage.
UPDATE: http://forums.evga.com/Dark-fan-headers-m2021754.aspx
It looks like the X79 only has ONE TRUE PWM header , all the others seem to be voltage. This would limit you choices to ONE(TWO) CPU TOWER COOLER PWM fans + 7 (6) PWM case fans when using a PWM splitter.
Of course, you can use the other headers to run 3pin voltage fans (at full speed)
1) That's true, but hopefully we have advanced members such you that knows a lot
2) Well, the first tools looks like industrial, for sure I don't have them. What I have and I guess that may help is a dremel, drill and a circle cutter. I'm thinking about use a circle cutter used for wood (I think I'm only able to find with 120mm and not 140mm) and try make the hole. The four holes for four bolts and nuts. I'm thinking about this kind of tools:
For wood, but with the proper size, for example 120/140mm.
Like the one on the left, but with the size of the bolts.
Sound like good options?
Any advise to avoid damage the plastic / acrylic?
3) Thanks for the link explaining how to test with ONE true PWM fan.
3.3) Yeah, everybody say that AP-15 is awesome, but the price is too high, up to 40USD per fan is too much for me. I was expecting at most around 20USD per fan, which is already very expensive. This appear to be the same problem with SanAce, too expensive. The Delta is at top of my budget, but just the small ones, no 120mm / 140 / 180mm.
These Noiseblocker eLOOP B12 PWM are also too expensive, around 30USD. It never come to my mind that chassis fans could be so expensive. LOL
Other potential options that I found and are affordable on my budget:
Yeah, the most nice are the ones with LED, but I don't know, people say that in general the ones with LED are bad, also, not sure if the LED may be turned on and off, because during all day and night may be a pain.
If you have advises of coolers to buy on my budget that will be great I will be very thankful, I'm located at USA and free shipping is a good bonus.
Not sure what you will advise, but based on your previous answer I'm considering one of these 3:
I agree, they are very ugly, in special the Noctua one. Do you know if I may paint these fan coolers with neon ink? Will it damage anything? I would like to make them less ugly
3.5) Yeah, I already have two coolers on my CPU with a splitter, so I have space for more 6 fans. I guess I will buy this Swiftech as you advised.
In general where do you store it on the chassis to hide it and avoid be a problem with airflow?
Here is my next toy - I'm happy, thanks for help me decide.
1) That's true, but hopefully we have advanced members such you that knows a lot
2) Well, the first tools looks like industrial, for sure I don't have them. What I have and I guess that may help is a dremel, drill and a circle cutter. I'm thinking about use a circle cutter used for wood (I think I'm only able to find with 120mm and not 140mm) and try make the hole. The four holes for four bolts and nuts. I'm thinking about this kind of tools:
For wood, but with the proper size, for example 120/140mm.
Like the one on the left, but with the size of the bolts.
Sound like good options?
Any advise to avoid damage the plastic / acrylic?
3) Thanks for the link explaining how to test with ONE true PWM fan.
3.3) Yeah, everybody say that AP-15 is awesome, but the price is too high, up to 40USD per fan is too much for me. I was expecting at most around 20USD per fan, which is already very expensive. This appear to be the same problem with SanAce, too expensive. The Delta is at top of my budget, but just the small ones, no 120mm / 140 / 180mm.
These Noiseblocker eLOOP B12 PWM are also too expensive, around 30USD. It never come to my mind that chassis fans could be so expensive. LOL
Other potential options that I found and are affordable on my budget:
Yeah, the most nice are the ones with LED, but I don't know, people say that in general the ones with LED are bad, also, not sure if the LED may be turned on and off, because during all day and night may be a pain.
If you have advises of coolers to buy on my budget that will be great I will be very thankful, I'm located at USA and free shipping is a good bonus.
Not sure what you will advise, but based on your previous answer I'm considering one of these 3:
I agree, they are very ugly, in special the Noctua one. Do you know if I may paint these fan coolers with neon ink? Will it damage anything? I would like to make them less ugly
3.5) Yeah, I already have two coolers on my CPU with a splitter, so I have space for more 6 fans. I guess I will buy this Swiftech as you advised.
In general where do you store it on the chassis to hide it and avoid be a problem with airflow?
Here is my next toy - I'm happy, thanks for help me decide.
2. ok, the most important thing is to proceed slowly & gently. Clamp the piece on a good worksurface, use both hands to keep the drill upright, let the (power)tool do the work, don't force it. Drilling a (small) pilothole first will make it easier to keep the drill centered. Everything would be easier if you have access to a drill press.
Only take the protective foil/paper of the plexi AFTER you're done with everything. Also, it doesn't hurt to get a bit more as you need, so you can practice.. or if you screw it up, that you dont have to wait a week until the replacement plexi sheet gets delivered.
There a lots "working with plexi" guides on the net, so look around
3.3 Not going to go into advising too much, the AP-13 are ok.. the jetflo's tend to be loud when they ramp up. In the end its up to you, as long as you realise that when using PWM splitter ALL of its attached fans must be PWM fans.
Otherwise, my position on fans is clear: spend more now, save more later
Now, what the PWM splitter will do:
Say you have FOUR PWM fans plugged into the hub: Fan_A with a MAX of 1000 RPM, FAN_B with a MAX of 2000 RPM, FAN_C with a MAX of 2200 RPM, FAN_D with a MAX of 5000 RPM
If you set fan speed to 50% in BIOS (or SpeedFan or OpenHWMonitor Or the TuningSoft that came with the MB) , then FAN_A will run at +/- 500 RPM & FAN_B at +/- 1000 RPM & FAN_C at +/- 1100 RPM & FAN_D at +/- 2500 RPM.
So if you have different fans , you have to work out where would be the best place to put them in the case.
In this example that would probably be the 5000 RPM at the front filtered intake, the 2200 RPM on the CPU cooler, the 2000 RPM on the rear exhaust, the 1000 RPM "somewhere else" (roof, or floor or side)
Although some experimenting might be needed for best result.
If you have FOUR identical PWM fans, all with a MAX of 2200 RPM, then at 50% they would all run at +/- 1100 RPM, then placement becomes somewhat easier: TWO fans at the filtered front intakes, one on the CPU cooler, one on the rear exhaust.
Although some experimenting might be needed for best result.
Just an example
3.5 The Swifty Hub is not that big, you'll probably find a spot somewhere behind the motherboard tray or near the PSU.. depends a bit on the length of the wires of the fans.
Fans can be (spray)painted.. there are examples/guides on the net. I advise against it because its easy enough to do it wrong. It requires some experience with spray paint beyond tagging walls & roadsigns
If you do it wrong, you can create an imbalance in the fan which can cause "some rattle"... Experiment with cheap stuff first
Led fans: tastes differ
For me, unless they are functional and really add something, led fans are the equivalent of "go faster" stripes on a car. It doesn't really go faster, but it makes you feel good when you look at it
Let me conclude with a little "lecture" on (power)tools:
§ Tools come in three flavours:
-Bargain bin, non-descript brand , cheap (Chinese), use-once-or-twice-then-throw-away:
They have their place: if you want to go a weekend all out in refurnishing your home and then never again.. they'll do the job
-Quality, not-so-cheap-rather-much-more-$$ (mostly German) brand:
If you take care of these, they'll last you a long time, if you want to take apart your car/furniture every other week.. these are the thing s to go for.
-Professional Quality, not-so-cheap-rather-expensive (mostly German) brand:
As it says on the box
If you want to take everybody elses cars or furniture apart every working day, this is the stuff you get
§ Use the right tool for the right job.
Yes, ultimately you can achieve everything with a hammer... but *really*? Are you a presenter on a car show?
Yes, you can open a tin of beans with a screwdriver or tungsten chissel... but should you?
§ How do you know a good quality tool?
Grab a $0.99 screwdriver and a $14.49 screwdriver.. feel the difference
§ A well equipped workshop with good tools is something you build up over a lifetime,
unless you inherit some from someone. Or... if you have more money as brains: just order two of everything.. but they wont give you the same satisfaction.
§ Keep your tools clean & in good working order,
be kind to them, they'll be kind to you (see below)
§ Let the tool do the work,
it's why mankind invented tools... don't force it
§ Lastly, tools come with a cost... no, not money... a cost in blood.
Any tool which hasn't been taken proper care off or has been neglected & unused for a long time, WILL draw blood the next time you use it. Forget about "sparkling" guys & swooning gals in "Twilight"... Those are not real. But vampires exist: they tend to live in your garden shed
This may be a very dumb question, but I was curious, is there any standard that allow us to identify if a cooler is working intake or exhausting just by looking at it? I mean, suppose it's turned off or that it's so weak that when turned off the air appears to be the same on both direction.
Is there any kind of sign in coolers to identify it?
Maybe side of the palettes?
Etc
For example, just looking for the cooler (without previous knowledge), would you say that this cooler on the following side is intake or exhaust? And why?
For example, just looking for the cooler (without previous knowledge), would you say that this cooler on the following side is intake or exhaust? And why?
For example, just looking for the cooler (without previous knowledge), would you say that this cooler on the following side is intake or exhaust? And why?
A fan can be intake or exhaust depending on which way you mount it. What you should be looking for is airflow direction, which is plain to see by the way the blades "scoop" the air. According to our viewpoint, both fans you displayed scoop the air in a counter-clockwise direction, moving the air front-to-back.
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