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PETG: Which fluid do you use in your loop?

5.1K views 27 replies 18 participants last post by  OutlawII  
#1 ·
Hello All,

As i do research on all the areas of custom water cooling while i order all the various parts and products for my current custom build i am assembling, i have ordered PETG over soft tube to attempt my first time going rigid tube the first time on this build, i purchased plenty extra to assure i have enough for the build since it was very cheap compared to purchasing all the different angle fittings i would need for soft tube.

I reached out to my friend in Seattle, Washington who has been in the watercooling world for 10+ years on what he runs in his loop, he told me he has been using Distilled water with a few drops of Dawn dish soap for the past 8+ years, exchanging his fluid annually without a single issue, but after talking to him i realized he is using Acrylic tube, i thought he said he was using PETG tube based on just seeing the pictures he sent me of his build. I think i am too deep into the PETG route to switch now, as i ordered all the fittings i would need for PETG and tube which has already shipped and on its way to my door.

My question is what fluid do you recommend for the loop, i was reading the manuals on the GPU and CPU blocks from heatkillers and it mentions to avoid products like Copper Sulfate and a few others, which rules out the PTNuke i was going to use with distilled water, i really dont want to go premix fluids as im building this build for function over looks, so i have very little RGB involved in the build and the side tempered glass is so dark its difficult to see anything inside the case anyway without opening the door or blasting a light inside the case.

Is distilled water with dish soap like he uses appropriate for PETG?
 
#2 ·
I wouldnt use dish soap in a loop.
Iv always used distilled water with a bit of consentrate as the biocide.
Change coolant each 2-3 years.
 
#3 ·
Get a bottle of Mayhems Biocide+ and Inhibitor+. 4 drops of each per liter of coolant. The bottles will last a long time and your loop will have all the protection it needs.
 
#4 ·
Hi there

As above I wouldn't use dish soap water in my build or any build

As above Biocide and Inhibitor is good choice just you will need change coolant much frequently than with other coolants

I would have look on Mayhems X1 or XT-1(this I would use only if yours PETG tubing is on Mayhems approved or tested list)

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 
#13 ·
Biocide+ and Inhibitor+ don't need to be changed frequently. It's X1 that needs to be changed every year. Inhibitor+ and Biocide+ can stay for 2-3 years in your loop. Just add a little more product to the water every year to keep it active.
 
#5 ·
I don't see there being an issue using liquid dish soap in small amounts (regular Dawn for example) the idea with that is to lower the surface tension of water its been suggested as an additive to automotive cooling systems for years as an alternative to name brand products like Water Wetter, as its essentially the same thing. I used it in my car without issue.

Although I'd probably stick to distilled with silver coil.
 
#6 ·
Absolutely experimental loop. a little bit of canola oil/Glychol and a few shots/sprays of some Cleaners./Bleach. It is of a Milkier white consistency...But similar idea to the Mineral oil...just haven't went and bought any. And Sealed up with that type of Pump. Maybe Flow Slightly Reduced. But yeah it's something that maybe be okay to run awhile.

That same idea wanting something Slicker and or Slick in there.
 
#7 ·
Im starting to consider ordering some acrylic tube, i received my order today from Performance PC, when i placed the order for 5 x 500mm of the PETG tube, i was thinking it was a lot to practice with... its actually not a lot and will probably have to order more...

Does anyone know if the same fittings will work with Acrylic as long as i get the same size tube?
 
#9 ·
Hi there

He is or will be running or using Nickel plated blocks and therefore he shouldn't use silver kill coil or PTNuke as well

Here is somewhere thread where guy run Silver Kill Coil and PTNuke with Heatkiller IV Nickel plated blocks and he run to issues

Similarly friend has run as well Silver Kill Coil with PTNuke with Phanteks Glacier WB and on his block nickel plating started to peel off

Hope this helps

Thanks, Jura
 
#11 ·
If i would have known about the nickel with the silver/pt nuke reactions i would have gotten the copper versions of the waterblocks. I am seriously leaning on ordering acrylic and play with it also, thinking of forming the parts i need with the PETG i bought just to get some practice and understanding of what i need in acrylic, and then order what i need plus a little extra, because the acrylic vs PETG is much more expensive and seems better overall with all fluids. Then i may try the method my friend used with the distilled water and dawn dish soap. I asked him what he does for bacteria and fungal growth and he said he has never had an issue with it running the distilled water with dish soap. The dish soap kills off the stuff in the loop and because loop is air tight the water stays free of anything that can grow he said. Just seems like a really basic way to maintain a loop, since water is ultimately faster at transfer heat vs most premix fluids.
 
#14 ·
I'm using EK Cryofluid concentrate and like it a lot so far.
 
#18 ·
Been a while since I heard about using dish soap. I use distilled water and Liquid Utopia. Has worked perfectly.
 
#24 ·
XSPC ECX Ultra Clear concentrate. Lovely stuff.