unless the heatpipes are punctured they're not gonna be faulty, and even if one was there's multiple and one leaky heat pipe (I'd imagine) wouldn't cause a >20C temp increase.

if both the IHS and cooler are convex then thermal paste can look fine after you install/uninstall the heatsink (it'll just be light except around the center of the IHS). grab a piece of glass or a straight edge and check the IHS and cooler.

 

Yes i was thinking the same about the HPs, i don't think all alre faulty i was just throwing ideas
I am going to reinstall again the AIO because i can't use the pc with the DRP4 so i can check if they are both convex... but seems weird that causes this big temp difference... i mean we should see a lot more ppl with the same problem with ryzen and the DR coolers unless i have a rare case of a convex IHS/cooler base. Also the previous owner has a 2700X too and he told me it was cooler than his new 240 AIO around 70°

 

Just to double check but the clear plastic on the bottom of the CPU cooler was removed right?

 

lol... you know this is a silly question for real... i mean it's better to double or triple check but really i can't believe this happened before that someone forgot to peel it off....
anyway the cooler is not new, the previous owner had no problems at all
and nice avatar of Ian

 

What shilka said. Forgetting to remove protective plastic from cooler base is not at all uncommon .. and is often one of the obvious questions asked when peeps have heating problems.

 

how many second hand heatsinks do people buy with protective film on them?

 

What if the first owner put it back on when he sold it?
People will do strange and stupid stuff so you can never rule anything out

 

Ok little update, but no solution:

@doyll : yes i cleaned all and re-installed the cooler 3 times now and like i said the TIM print was perfect from the 1st time i applied it, all screws are tight to the max. I can say the mount mechanism is installed super properly

@The Pook: i put on again the corsair AIO and the temps are back to normal... meanwhile i checked and i can say the cooler is a bit convex but very very minimal (the aio is more covex) and the IHS i can say seems a little little bit concave... but almost impossible to notice. I checked with a flat piece of steel and if i put it to direct light i can see a very very little gap in the middle but like i said almost barely visible..

These photos are from the last try, i put even more paste to see if it made any difference

 

Where are you mounting the AIO? If you're mounting it to the front maybe it's just that the heatsink isn't getting good enough airflow and the AIO up front does? That shouldn't cause a 20C temp difference though.

Past that I really dunno what to tell you, thermal paste spread looks fine and even if the CPU was badly concave/convex temps on both the AIO and heatsink would suck, not just on the heatsink.

 

The AIO is mounted on top with the fans blowing out the case... the 2 fans you see in the photo are the 2 front intakes in the case
But exactly like you said even with poor/none airflow it should not cause this huge temp difference....
Really I feel like I've been knocking my head against the wall trying to understand what's going on. I reached the guy that sold me the cooler and asked him if he can open a RMA ticket with amazon because it's still under warranty

 

That's good news!

Just a thought, Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power is one of the very best coolers made and sells on Amazon.com for $49.99. It is 171mm tall and 155mm wide so finpack reaches 77.5mm center CPU toward PCIe sockets. Your C70 CPU clearance spec is 170mm and all cases I've checkded that spec has been a few mm conservative so TS140P should fit case. Your Asus Crosshair VII Hero has 51.2mm center CPU to near side of RAM socket and 79.2mm center to near side of PCIe socket.

We have a long thread about TRUE Spirit 140 Power here:
https://www.overclock.net/forum/246-air-cooling/1477785-thermalright-true-spirit-140-power.html

 

thanks for the tips
my friend had years ago a TR archon (installed by me )but honestly i didn't like it aesthetically so much even if it was performing really good for an old core2quad...
Here on amazon.it the True spirits is sold for 63€, how does it perform compared to a NH-D15?? As soon i get my refund from amazon my budget will be around 80-90€ at max but i can spend a bit less also

Wish i was on OCN.net when i built this rig... d15 costed me nearly 100euros and i could have gotten TR140 or legrandmacho :/

I was looking for the NH D15 too but legrandmacho is about the same price of the noctua

 

Wish i was on OCN.net when i built this rig... d15 costed me nearly 100euros and i could have gotten TR140 or legrandmacho :/

 

Wish i was on OCN.net when i built this rig

your 3700X launched June 2019 and you signed up for OCN in April of 2017

 

Anyone that recommends a 212 Evo in this day and age dont know a lot about coolers and should not be giving such bad advice

 

The 212 is an entry level cooler, probably not better than the included wraith in the ryzen box

 

That was not the point the point was its a cooler more than 10 years old and it was not all that good when it came out and its a total joke today when many coolers in the same price range being better and some of them are cheaper as well as being better

 

 

By the way these days i was in contact by email with the Be-quiet technical department and after the guy read this thread he told me he was going to discuss the problem with the Product Manager about the issue....
I will let you know if they give me any update

 

I was able to squeeze an extra 100mhz out of my CPU with LGMRT vs TS140P.. With TS140P I could run linpack extreme at 4600, with LGMRT I could run linpack extreme at 4700. TS140P is an awesome cooler, and for fifty bucks you really cant go wrong. The cold plate on my LGMRT makes better contact than with TS140P. Ill have to bring it to work sometime and knock some of that convexity away on the mill. But right now I really don't care.

Edit:

That is using TY143 on both. On TS140P I was also using TY147A as pull, it was good at lower fan speeds. With LGMRT I have a 120x38 @ 12v about 1-1.5mm away that is the rear case exhaust, and another directly above it that is exhausting, which is about .5-1mm from LGMRT. So both of my case exhaust are pulling on the hsf. Works really well. All of my case fans are 120x38. 1 intake and 1 exhaust run at 12v quietly, and the other 4 run at 7v, and 12v when its time to run unrealistic loads

Everyone should run fat fans, no more questions about airflow would be needed

 

So you had a push pull fans on the true spirit? I don't know how much will affect since it is a single tower... you can just stick a single higher rpm fan to achieve same results. Anyway 38mm fans are awesome until you run the PC out of the window because they are turbines at 12v

 

It worked well when the fans were at lower speeds, once the 143 got up to 2000 the rear fan wasn’t doing much other than getting in the way. The TY143 still spooled up to 2500 at max.

Honestly I would recommend everyone use thick fans, but everyone is focused on silence and pretty lights. I can’t run my pc the way I want if is silent. I don’t mind a little noise if I don’t have to worry about thermals.

 

Simple physics and my experience says running push pull with something like TY-147A (1300rpm) and TY-143 (2500rpm) TY-147A lowers airflow of TY-143 .. simply because TY147 is running approx half the speed TY-143 does .. and thus flowing much less airflow thorugh it. TY-143 ends up trying to spin TY-147 faster thus wasting it's airflow abiltity trying to speed up TY-147 to match it's speed .. like pairing a fast running with a slow running and expecting fast running to be faster .. not going to happen.

Honestly stacking fans does not increase airflow. Their rated airflow does not increase, but their pressure rating will go up a little if there is an airflow straightener between them or one spins opposite direction of other. But even then it usually only benefits performace at low speed / low pressure levels when more pressure overcomes resistance to airflow. At higher speed this pressure increase is to little to help.

Thicker (38mm) can help becuase they usually have much more blade area thus generating higher pressure ratings .. thus overcoming resistance better resuling in more airflow, especially at low speeds.

Years ago I tested TY-143 againt FHP-141 and TY-143 outperformed FHP-141. I'll try and find the data and post it.

(Edit: DB to CFM curve in attached image below)

Simply put, thicker fans does not mean they are better than normal thicknes fans. Some thickers ones are, some normal thickness ones are.

 

It works well at slower fan speeds, like another ty 147A until it’s not. My fans don’t run full speed at all times.. I am using ty147A and B on it right now, works good.

 

well i have 2 NF-A12 that i am using with the aio... and them combined cost the same as the cooler lol... i wanted to use them on the DRP4 but they made the space between the towers 2-3 mm narrower of a standard 25mm fan... so you can only use the fan bundled... suckers....
nothing stops me to put them on the Spirit... does it include the clips for 2 fans?? The 140mm fan included is a lot taller than the actual heatsink fins by looking at the pics... i think a 120 should fit well also, though i will loose airflow on the width side of the cooler

 

Mine came with 2 pair of clips. I'm guessing 2x NF-A12 will perform about the same as stock TY-147A does because NF-A12 flows a maximum of only 60.093cfm & 2.34mm H2O compared to TY-147A flows up to 73.6cfm & 1.56mm H2O. Granted NF-A12 has higher pressure rating but TY's 1.56mm is more than enough for this cooler so not helping. Using your 2x NF-A12 as intakes behind front grill and filter would probably be better application.

 

In the front grill i have 2 x NF-S12A, more suitable for case fans
And today they delivered me the TSP That's tall.... a lot, i hope it will fit in the case, i am going to give it a try this weekend

 

In the front grill i have 2 x NF-S12A, more suitable for case fans
And today they delivered me the TSP That's tall.... a lot, i hope it will fit in the case, i am going to give it a try this weekend

I'll be extremely surprised if top of heatpipes even touch side cover. I have installed coolers in a few cases that heatpipes did push against the cover.

2x NF-S12A intake are enough airflow for CPU or GPU coolers, but not enough for both. I assume you have other intakes as well?

 

For future reference, you should touch the heatsink.

If the cpu is 100c, and the heatsink is working properly the heatsink should be absorbing all that heat and should be scorching hot.

If it's not, then it is broken somewhere. You can probably diagnose by touching the different parts.

 

Wow,your reply shows you know nothing about how heatpipe heatsinks / cooler work. While what you say was sorta true in the old days (10-20 years go) before heatpipe cooling it is not anymore. Heatpipes as used in computers only get hot in their base on CPU IHS where the liquid in heatpipe boils and that heated vapor moves up center area of pipes to top 60-80mm where it condenses into wicking on inside of heatpipe and wicks back to heat source. Common sense indicates the boiling point of liquid in heatpipes in computers is quite low, like starting to boil in low to mid 20s celcius for the cycle to keep CPU temps at idle inthe 25-30c range. I suggest you look up how heatpipes work on internet or maybe wikipedia before you post any more here.

 

Today i installed another cooler, a true spirit 140 but still no luck.... it's going better than the DRP4 but i still get over 90/94°c and got 1 overtemp shutdown. Temps are slightly better with this heatsink though
At this point i think it is something related to the CPU IHS because i tried 2 coolers but got the same problem with both, but my H105 aio still manage to keep it way lower at around 75°

 

If 2 high end heatsinks both perform badly, the problem most likely isn't the heatsinks. Maybe try running the whole setup outside of the case?

 

What Gilles3000 said about problem.
My guess is your case isn't flowing needed air to cooler because if you have 30c air into cooler instead of 23c air the CPU will run 7c hotter than it should. I've setup airflow on other peoples' builds that had 15-25c higher air temp into cooler when system was working than room and when I finished changing/setting up fans properly the air into coolers was 2-4c above room temp dropping their temps 11-23c from what they were before I setup case airflow.

 

Guys the case was open on both sides.. i had no side panels.

 

but what is the air temp into cooler? Just becuase case is open doesn't mean you are getting cool air into cooler.
These coolers cool much better than the results you are getting. So either the air into cooler is very warm, cooler is not mounted properly to IHS or CPU chip to IHS is not seated properly.

 

air temp is ambient temp = 20°C
Since i went trough all this with the DRP4: reseated the cooler 3 times, checked everything multiple times i can say it is a problem with the CPU itself probably the IHS too convex or concave or i don't know and maybe the AIO coldplate has a much better contact...
Honestly i am done... i am not going to try any different solution, i had enough i am sending back the cooler to amzn so i get a refund and that's it...
Downside i don't have another cpu to try