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Reccomended 140mm case fans

6.2K views 46 replies 14 participants last post by  Montoya1  
#1 ·
I purchased a Phanteks Enthoo Primo case and am looking to change out its case fans for higher airflow PWM fans. It's been a long time since I had to buy non radiator fans so I am not sure which to get. What seem to be goof airflow for a water cooled system? It doesn't have to be super quiet but not a jet engine either.
 
#3 ·
#11 ·
#10 · (Edited)
Stock PH-F140SP fans are quite good. PH-F140MP more more air at low speeds but not a lot more. MPs have higher static pressure at low and mid-range speeds so are able to move more air through grills and filters.

if you want RGB I suggest using Phantkes Halos. It costs less to just buy some RGB lighting strips and install them to light fans and whatever else you want lighting on.

As said, more space between bottom of case and what case is setting on with taller feet or open center caster base greatly increases airflow to bottom vents. I used to make castor bases, some with 6x 30 mm twin casters and some with 6x 40mm twin castors. Here's calculations of stock bottom vent area, vent area of 140mm fan, and vent area with 30mm castor open center base:
I took a good look at the bottom of Primo and couldn't belief what I found. Total area of intake through Primo base to bottom fans is 91.35sq cm.. a single 120mm fan has 113sq cm area.. subtract 12sq cm for motor hub and 120mm fan area is 101sq cm.. and that's not taking into account lost airflow though the grills.

*Left side has no airflow.. The grills on filters are totally cosmetic!! There's a solid surface behind them visible when you take them out to clean!!
*Right side has 36x 3x15mm slots (16.2sq cm)
*Back is 147x25mm (36.75sq cm)
*Front has 5x 10x30mm (15sq cm)
*Base is 2mm off floor with 126.5cm - 19.5cm for feet = 117cm (23.4sq cm)
Total area is 91.35sq cm

30mm castor base adds 400sq cm
Not a problem for me as I'll have a castor base under Primo anyway. But I suspect sooner or later others will notice the above.. especially the cosmetic grills on filters.

Raising on 30mm castors gives 33mm additional clearance for an addtion 400sq cm of airflow to / from bottom.

Front vent area is much better but still only about half the area of 2x 140mm fans

EP front vent has 75sq cm vent area + 62sq cm on sides and 20sq cm on bottom = 158sq cm airflow through grills.
140mm fan is 154sq cm - 12-13sq cm for motor hub = 142sq cm.


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Here's drawing with dimensions and instructions. I used 10mm 7-ply Baltic birch plywood with threaded castor pins and tapped holes in base.

PH-F140MP are very good and quiet up to about 1100rpm, but no ARGB.
Thermalright TL-C14S ARGB are very good and come in both standard and ARGB versions. I've been using this impeller design for first TY-140 way back in 2008. New curved blades might move more air but thin long blades are problematic with harmonic vibrations making unpleasant noises at certain rpm with some grill mesh.
 
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#12 ·
All Noctua NF-A14 fans have same specs at same speeds regardless of the specs. This is because specs at at maximum speed, not the speeds we normally use high speed fans. This means all NF-A14 models with max rpm ranging from 800rpm to 3000rpm all have same specs at same rpm even. NF-A14 iPPC 3000 fan has same performance at 500rpm and 800rpm as NF-A14 1300rpm fan. Publish specs are fan at maximum speed.
 
#14 ·
A 1300 RPM fan does not run at 3000 RPM.

Higher RPM equals higher performance.
 
#13 ·
I may grab Arctic P14 PWM fans, use them as my intake and non radiator exhaust. Which brings me to one last question, I have purchased an Aquacomputer Quadro should I only plug the radiator fans into it or should I include the pump and case fans as well? It does only have 4 ports so I would have to leave something out unless I put them all on one splitter.
 
#15 ·
Not a great choice. I tested out the P14s, and swapped my F140MP right back in. Had to run the P14s harder to get the same performance as the F140MP, so they wound up being louder at similar performance levels, and the tonality was not as good. In other words, the P14 would be a downgrade from what is already in the case.
 
#22 ·
Noctua are good but over priced.

Arctic P series are decent and good considering the price, but not as nice a sound as some. Several buyer have had issues with Actic P.

be quiet! Silent Wings seem to be best with pleasant sound but expensive.
 
#23 ·
I was told these are good fans, I never heard of this brand though.

 
#24 ·
I was told these are good fans, I never heard of this brand though.
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I don't think they are good and would definitely never use them in any of my build. Even if it was in an new Fractal Design case that came with them I would replace with better fans.
 
#26 ·
I prefer NF-A14 if you want Noctua. If you can get Thermalright TY-147A SQ or new TY-145SP, TL-C14 at decent price they are very good .. as is Phanteks PH-F140MP which is little better than PH-F140SP and PH-f140XP at mid-range speeds.

Arctic P14 are not at all bad and usually low priced. They might be worth a try if you can get some to try and return if not satisfied. Like I said, most users like them.
 
#31 ·
The vardars I had had their motor assembly fail and the replacement ones did too so I would not recommend them. Maybe they fixed them but I can only advise based on my experience (I had the white 140 and 120 in my system I built in 2017). I bought some more when they were $5 per fan on EK's site just to have some spare 140s around but I'd not use them for a daily system.
 
#34 ·
Eventually I am strongly considering adding an Aquacomputer Aquaero 6, since I already have the high flow next and the Quadro on the way. May as well dig into the Aquacomputer ecosystem so to speak. So have good fans and fan control is my next improvement on this build revision.
 
#35 ·
Thermalright TL-C14 or TL-C14X, especially if you can get them on discount special (happens often in Amazon). Personally I prefer the TL-C14X as it has a more solid frame construction and can spin faster if you need the extra performance (the TL-C14s I have are made of rather brittle plastic). The TLC14 also comes in RGB versions (both digital and analogue).

PH-F140MPs are good too. V2 of those fans is now replacing the older model, which is the same but capable of higher RPM. Does not push as much air as the Thermalrights or say a NH-A14, but it is quieter and has a pleasant sound profile (not as good as the PH-F120MP). Be mindful that they are not impressive beyond 1500 RPM, as they get very loud and airflow not impressive (compared to other high RPM 140mm fans).

Personally in a fan of the Thermalright fans. I just have to share my experience with them on my Phanteks Enthoo Pro. For some reason I have issues mounting the TL-C14 fans as intakes in the case. The blades end up touching with the 120mm fan mounting lips causing scrapping noises and possibly damage to the fan. It's weird because the PH-F140MPs I had before did not have that problem. I had to put a 2mm spacer sandwiched between the front panel and the fan.
 
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#39 ·
What ciarlatano said about P14s is true. At best the are only about as good as Phanteks case stock case fans.

If you like Noctua NF-A14 / NF-A15 fans you will definitely like Thermalright TY-147A SQ, new TY-145SP, TL-C14.
 
#40 ·
What ciarlatano said about P14s is true. At best the are only about as good as Phanteks case stock case fans.

If you like Noctua NF-A14 / NF-A15 fans you will definitely like Thermalright TY-147A SQ, new TY-145SP, TL-C14.
Then I will grab the TC-14X's, the RGB version seems to be of slower RPM but I guess thats fines since I will rarely be running them at max speed. I figure 12 RPMs when it needs it. Otherwise if you know of other RGB fans I am open to suggestion.
 
#43 ·
I found this fairly informative since it includes some newer 140mm fans that haven't really been reviewed yet elsewhere.. I don't even know what language it's in, but I was able to infer that the charts included are for max RPM free airflow and noise (at 03:31), max RPM airflow and noise through probably a radiator (at 03:55), 40dB noise-normalized performance.through probably a radiator.(at 04:36), and CPU temperature at max RPM (at 6:14).
 
#44 ·
Another vote for the TL-C14. What @Melcar said about there lower RPM performance is spot on. They handily beat out my Fractal Venturi fans pretty much all RPMs but the biggest difference was the lower RPMs, under 1200 specifically.
 
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