[KenLautner]

Hello!
I've been using a Logitech mouse for about 2 years now. I've used a number of different mouse but they all have 1 same problem: The click wears off and instead of single click, things start to double click.
Now when that happens I simply switch the spring of the click with the middle mouse button but then against after 4-5 months of heavy use, it wears off again and I only have right click to switch it with.

So I was wondering if there is a mouse which uses a different type of hardware instead of these cheap springs which only lasts about 4-5 months.
Which mouse are you using?
Thanks!

 

[granitov]

There is no mouse that is 100% guaranteed to last in this regard. Your best bet would be buying quality microswitches and replacing them when needed instead (as you're not hesitant to open the device anyway).

High firmware-added buttion debounce times would also help, though it obviously has drawbacks (check the Mouse button lag thread).

 

[qsxcv]

i don't understand why the issue happens more on certain mice than on others, but i think it's essentially a universal issue, unless you do this:
Quote:

Originally Posted by qsxcv

in principle this sort of issue can happen to any switch on any mice using the normal pin configuration (ground, pullup input to mcu, not connected). furthermore it's not really solvable via firmware without adding a huge delay to button releases; on my g100s i've seen a second click 60ms after initial release

@finalmousejude
you guys could be the first to do debouncing "perfectly".

http://www.eng.utah.edu/~cs5780/debouncing.pdf
see bottom of pg11.

it's trivial to implement. top pin remains ground, middle pin remains pullup input, but make the buttom pin pullup input as well . the only cost is that you'll use an additional mcu pin for each switch done using this method.

in the firmware, basically do it like

initialization
state = not clicked

main loop:
if (state is not clicked and middle pin is low)
state = clicked
elseif (state is clicked and bottom pin is low)
state = not clicked

there's no X milliseconds of "debouncing time" anywhere. button presses are as responsive as possible and button releases are only less responsive by the time it takes for the moving thing inside the switch to transition (~1ms iirc)

 

[uaokkkkkkkk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by granitov

High firmware-added buttion debounce times would also help, though it obviously has drawbacks (check the Mouse button lag thread).

I had a razer krait(+16ms) double click, and a friend had a corsair m65(+30ms) double click. Truth is there a LOT of variables.

 

[KenLautner]

Quote:

Originally Posted by granitov

There is no mouse that is 100% guaranteed to last in this regard. Your best bet would be buying quality microswitches and replacing them when needed instead (as you're not hesitant to open the device anyway).

Wait I can buy those switches separately? Which one would you recommend? A high quality switch. This part seems to be the problem in the cases:


So is there a good quality of this part available?
It's surprising Logitech is using low quality part for their mouses even when the mouses are prices at $50+
Quote:

Originally Posted by qsxcv

i don't understand why the issue happens more on certain mice than on others, but i think it's essentially a universal issue, unless you do this:

I tried. I tried to go software side and make all changes recommended in any most topics on the internet. I tried few programs too. They all kinda fixed the problem but it was 100% fixed only when I switch the hardware part out.
Quote:

Originally Posted by uaokkkkkkkk

I had a razer krait(+16ms) double click, and a friend had a corsair m65(+30ms) double click. Truth is there a LOT of variables.

I've had mostly Logitech but if the problem happens in other brands too then maybe there is no solution?

I used a cheap mouse long ago for $5 from zebronics, it didn't double click but it's click sound disappeared after 1-2 years. I still have it and I opened it up, it had the same looking hardware inside.

 

[granitov]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KenLautner

it had the same looking hardware inside.

The switches may look the same externally, even the internals could look nearly the same - but they're essentially *micro-*pieces of hardware with active mechanical parts, thus even the smallest deviations in manufacturing process could lead to differing operating properties. And we're talking about different designs (like a single-piece vs. 2-piece spring) and different materials (copper, silver, gold, alloys).
Quote:

Originally Posted by KenLautner

Which one would you recommend? A high quality switch.

Check the "What's the best microswitch" thread. Personal preference is Cherry DG2 and Huano blue shell + white point for main buttons (light, soft rebound); Huano black shell + blue point and standard Omron D2FC for secondary buttons. Others' preferences include Huano variants, Omron D2F variants. Remember that a stiff mouse shell (like Zowies until recent) would be best paired with light switches (Cherry, Huano blue&white), while flexible shells and designs with separated buttons (like MS WMO) would require a bit stiffer switches to avoid misclicks.

Just reading opinions would be the cheap option, while ordering a bit (2-4 pieces) of the most recommended models would be the quality option of defining the preferred switch. In terms of longevity Huano blue&white, Cherry DG4, Omron D2F-F-3-7, Omron D2FC-F-7N(20M) and Zippy DF3 all have a declared life cycle of 20 million clicks, although the real number depends.

 

[2shellbonus]

The new bloody mice use infared mouse switches and have a 50 mil rating. So they won't double click.

 

[qsxcv]

Quote:

Originally Posted by KenLautner

I tried. I tried to go software side and make all changes recommended in any most topics on the internet.

uh i was talking about pcb and firmware design