Quote:

Originally Posted by fireedo

I have an expectation when I decided using custom watercooling on my intel x299 system using i7 7820x OC'ed to 4.7Ghz

Before I use this thermaltake Pacific RL360 D5 I use a Corsair H115i and maksimum load temp while Stressed using Realbench or Prime is about 83-86 c after 30 minutes

So, I change to this thermaltake LCS, but I really dissapointed, 5-10 second after I run Realbench the temp skyrocketing to 100-105 C and I got BSOD, I have check everythings, pump work, Waterblock sit correctly

What the hell is happening here???

is the thermaltake W1 waterblock bad? or some faulty?

I really frustrated here

need some advice , please

ThermalTake parts are not the greatest when it comes to waterCooling, I consider them junk below subpar. You want to use copper radiators & waterblocks. Which Thermaltake only uses aluminum(Same type of radiators & parts you find in AIO's). You also don't want to mix metals(aluminum & Copper is a giant NO). So you can not mix thermaltake parts with parts from EK, Aqua-Computer, WaterCool, etc...

you basically just built an expensive AIO.

1. Make sure you clean your radiator before installing it.
2. Make sure you bleed the system properly.
3. Increase the speed on your Pump & see if that helps any with the temps.
4. Check the water/Coolant temperatures. If Water temps is low & your CPU is high then it might be worth changing your thermal paste.
5. Make sure the fans are cooling the radiator properly(Is the air getting all the way through). Might want to increase the rpm's for a bit to see if that helps.

 

I really have to ask...

Have you peeled off the piece of plastic at the bottom of the CPU waterblock before installing?
What you describe is a symptom of not removing it. Or the waterblock is not seated correctly.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revan654

ThermalTake parts are not the greatest when it comes to waterCooling, I consider them junk below subpar. You want to use copper radiators & waterblocks. Which Thermaltake only uses aluminum(Same type of radiators & parts you find in AIO's). You also don't want to mix metals(aluminum & Copper is a giant NO). So you can not mix thermaltake parts with parts from EK, Aqua-Computer, WaterCool, etc...

you basically just built an expensive AIO.

1. Make sure you clean your radiator before installing it.
2. Make sure you bleed the system properly.
3. Increase the speed on your Pump & see if that helps any with the temps.
4. Check the water/Coolant temperatures. If Water temps is low & your CPU is high then it might be worth changing your thermal paste.
5. Make sure the fans are cooling the radiator properly(Is the air getting all the way through). Might want to increase the rpm's for a bit to see if that helps.

1. Done that
2. Check
3. Already use maksimum speed
4. I use Liquid thermal paste, Grizzly conductonaut
5. For now I open my case, so airflow are good

Quote:

Originally Posted by war4peace

I really have to ask...

Have you peeled off the piece of plastic at the bottom of the CPU waterblock before installing?
What you describe is a symptom of not removing it. Or the waterblock is not seated correctly.

Already done that too

Another question :
What if I have put this loop scheme in the wrong order, I mean, just now I found a how to from their document about loop scheme set up,
Like this :



mess up the outlet and inlet things I guess

is it worth to change my current loop to adjust like their document ? I mean I have to buy another PETG tube and coolant first since if according to that document then I must re-arrange my loop

 

I would trace the entire loop from first outlet to last inlet. There are markers on most waterblocks showing what way is in. If you did not use the correct inlet then yes, you need to re-do the loop.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revan654

I would trace the entire loop from first outlet to last inlet. There are markers on most waterblocks showing what way is in. If you did not use the correct inlet then yes, you need to re-do the loop.

well thankyou a lot for your respons, really appreciate

I think tonight will re-do my loop, hope everything will work well

 

already done re-do my loop
and sadly the performance still a nightmare, cant handle any OC, immediately high temperature if I try to stress test on OC settings

default clock stress test for 5 minutes this thermaltake LCS already reach 85 C

Did I mess up ???

what the hell is this product, screwed by Thermaltake

any suggestion?

do I have to try replace the waterblock? or replace radiator?

really desperate here

 

reality speaking here, and this will get a lot of flack, from others, but I have done it with no issues at all for years.

replace the CPU water block with a heatkiller CPU water block or a bits power CPU water block.

I see you like red coolant Prestone antifreeze coolant comes in red, I have been using antifreeze in my loops for 20 years, in fact all swiftech builds came with aluminum block tops and copper bottoms, plus the radiators where also copper 20 years ago. just fill the loop with a 20% antifreeze, with 80% distilled water and the system will be fine no corrosion will occur.

just as a suggestion it might not be a bad idea to put three more fans on that radiator as it is pretty thick.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1615072/cpu-and-radiator-upgrade-on-water-cooled-rig

 

Can you verify that the pump is working? pretty much asking to make sure the pump isn't dead

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by fireedo



already done re-do my loop
and sadly the performance still a nightmare, cant handle any OC, immediately high temperature if I try to stress test on OC settings

default clock stress test for 5 minutes this thermaltake LCS already reach 85 C

Did I mess up ???

what the hell is this product, screwed by Thermaltake

any suggestion?

do I have to try replace the waterblock? or replace radiator?

really desperate here

ThermalTake just makes crappy products, I have a stacks of there fans which none of them work properly among other items. Not to mention how horrible there digital software items are. They are known to pull some shady crap in the past.

Example One: Premium Riing Fans was not working properly. Instead of trying to fix the software, They just released a new SKU with updated software(This was only about 2 to 3 months after releasing the original one). Screwing anyone who bought the original set over. There entire forums is filled in people complaining about the problem. They just ignored everyone.

It's better to get your parts from a company who knows what there doing & are trust worthy.

If your planning on replacing the parts I suggest replacing them with the following. I have used both in the past with great results. HardwareLabs is the only radiators I use now based on my past experience with different companies. EK, XS-PC and others are still very good radiators, However EK are High FPI which require high rpm's to cool the radiator. HardwareLabs just makes some best High Quality radiators around.

Anything from WaterCool makes all other watercooling products look cheap. If I didn't already have my MonoBlock I would have used HeatKiller CPU block.

CPU Block: HeatKiller
Radiator: HardWareLabs SR2

Aqua-Computer is also a very good company to use too.

If you have any interest in replacing any of your fans I suggest using the following:

Corsair ML Pro 120 or 140 (Based on your radiator Size).

 

After doing some searches I found your problem:

Grizzly conductonaut

Note: Conductonaut thermal grease must not be used with aluminum heatsinks!

ThermalTake uses aluminum heatsinks.

You need to remove that & make sure there was no damage has been done to CPU block.

I would use Grizzly Kryonaut instead.

 

http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002577

"Pacific W1 is manufactured with a full copper base and anti-corrosive nickel plating."

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by czin125

http://www.thermaltake.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002577

"Pacific W1 is manufactured with a full copper base and anti-corrosive nickel plating."

or so they claim. Even if it true I would replace the thermalPaste.

 

Hi,

Sorry for the issues, have you checked your fan speeds? Are they hooked up directly to the MB?

When you redid your loop, did you reseat your block and reapply thermal paste?

Block is copper and nickle plated, so no issues there.

If you go pump to rad or pump to block it should not matter.

How is the airflow going through that rad?
What is your pump speed at?

Call our support today 800.988.1088 and go over details so we can help or PM me anytime.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iceman2733

Can you verify that the pump is working? pretty much asking to make sure the pump isn't dead

yes it is working fine
Quote:

Originally Posted by Revan654

ThermalTake just makes crappy products, I have a stacks of there fans which none of them work properly among other items. Not to mention how horrible there digital software items are. They are known to pull some shady crap in the past.

Example One: Premium Riing Fans was not working properly. Instead of trying to fix the software, They just released a new SKU with updated software(This was only about 2 to 3 months after releasing the original one). Screwing anyone who bought the original set over. There entire forums is filled in people complaining about the problem. They just ignored everyone.

It's better to get your parts from a company who knows what there doing & are trust worthy.

If your planning on replacing the parts I suggest replacing them with the following. I have used both in the past with great results. HardwareLabs is the only radiators I use now based on my past experience with different companies. EK, XS-PC and others are still very good radiators, However EK are High FPI which require high rpm's to cool the radiator. HardwareLabs just makes some best High Quality radiators around.

Anything from WaterCool makes all other watercooling products look cheap. If I didn't already have my MonoBlock I would have used HeatKiller CPU block.

CPU Block: HeatKiller
Radiator: HardWareLabs SR2

Aqua-Computer is also a very good company to use too.

If you have any interest in replacing any of your fans I suggest using the following:

Corsair ML Pro 120 or 140 (Based on your radiator Size).

well I think I will try that option

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThermalMike

Hi,

Sorry for the issues, have you checked your fan speeds? Are they hooked up directly to the MB?

When you redid your loop, did you reseat your block and reapply thermal paste?

Block is copper and nickle plated, so no issues there.

If you go pump to rad or pump to block it should not matter.

How is the airflow going through that rad?
What is your pump speed at?

Call our support today 800.988.1088 and go over details so we can help or PM me anytime.

yes, the fans are working, using connector from the package and hooked to the motherboard

when I did re-loop I'm not change waterblock position so I think it not needed to re-paste

well airflow for now I think not a problem because I still open the case
the pump already works at max speed (5)

 

will try for the 3rd time, this time will try to replace liquid thermal with ordinary thermal paste

getting really tired here

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by fireedo

will try for the 3rd time, this time will try to replace liquid thermal with ordinary thermal paste

getting really tired here

hey, fireedo what does the connection coming off the pump really look like?

from my angle it looks really restricting would that be a correct assessment?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by toolmaker03

hey, fireedo what does the connection coming off the pump really look like?

from my angle it looks really restricting would that be a correct assessment?

I think its fine

well, have been done 3rd time re-do everything, including re-paste

still got really bad performance

maybe this is a maximum performance that thermaltake LCS has

really dissapointed, for the price almost the same as EKWB product I have a big expectation, it thermaltake failed to impress

 

IMO the waterblock is the problem. Consider taking it appart to see if is something wrong with it. Because you have a massive radiator and a decent pump, Should you get better performance than a AIO.
Are you really sure that you properly cleaned the tubes after cutting them ? Because waterblocks get clogged really easy

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by lexer

IMO the waterblock is the problem. Consider taking it appart to see if is something wrong with it. Because you have a massive radiator and a decent pump, Should you get better performance than a AIO.
Are you really sure that you properly cleaned the tubes after cutting them ? Because waterblocks get clogged really easy

yes, I think WB is not capable or faulty.

everythings are flushed carefully before I put them in the loop

the thing is, if I have to replace WB then I choose to use EK supremacy EVO full nickel am I have to replace the radiator too? because I read that EK WB warning about not mixing with aluminium part for their Waterblock

so I have been doomed, if I have to replace WB and Radiator

what a waste of $400 then

(thermaltake RL360 D5 price I have purchased)

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by fireedo



already done re-do my loop
and sadly the performance still a nightmare, cant handle any OC, immediately high temperature if I try to stress test on OC settings

default clock stress test for 5 minutes this thermaltake LCS already reach 85 C

am I got f***ked up ???

what the hell is this product, screwed by Thermaltake

any suggestion?

do I have to try replace the waterblock? or replace radiator?

really desperate here

I find it hard to believe that a 360mm radiator, even aluminum can not keep that CPU a little cooler.

I have one last question are you turning the case so that all the air trapped in the upper radiator is getting flushed out of it?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by toolmaker03

I find it hard to believe that a 360mm radiator, even aluminum can not keep that CPU a little cooler.

I have one last question are you turning the case so that all the air trapped in the upper radiator is getting flushed out of it?

agree, when I bought this, I have convinced that bigger rad and a custom loop watercooling will be my answer to tame the x299 system (i7 7820x) also after watch a youtube video about Overclocking i9 7900x taming the beast using this thermaltake RL360 D5 RGB I'm finally convinced

I'm really sorry for not understand your question (english is not my primary language),

my radiator at top and using push fans configuration, dunno if this my correct respon for your question

 

Hello, if he already tried all the suggestions here (which are very good) then something is fishy here, 85c on idle and stock cpu setting is a big NO, even the stock aircooling has better performance, now, did you purge your system properly? I recently redid my loop because my 2nd btw Thermaltake pci ex riser cable went wrong, and i had to install the gpu directly to the motherboard, i notices right away when testing that the rad was pretty warm, more than usual at touch and my temps were like 10c higher than normal, so i start bumping the rad, moving the case back and foward and i saw big giants bubbles of air coming out of the rad, after a while, i was sure that there was no air inside the rad and my temps went down as usual.. so, please try that.. remember doing this by jumping your 24pin psu cable and no mechanical hard disk installed, otherwise you might damage them

Here, both loops, with and without THERMALTAKE riser cable.

 

are you moving the PC case, while the pump on the system running, so the radiator is in the upright position?

when the water loop is filled, a lot of air will get trapped inside of horizontally mounted radiators.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by fireedo

yes, I think WB is not capable or faulty.

everythings are flushed carefully before I put them in the loop

the thing is, if I have to replace WB then I choose to use EK supremacy EVO full nickel am I have to replace the radiator too? because I read that EK WB warning about not mixing with aluminium part for their Waterblock

so I have been doomed, if I have to replace WB and Radiator

what a waste of $400 then

(thermaltake RL360 D5 price I have purchased)

Before start burning money ahaha. First try to carefully check all the components. Start with the waterblock.

Nickel plated with Aluminium is not a great idea because there is a "big" galvanic difference (check charts on google)

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yukss

Hello, if he already tried all the suggestions here (which are very good) then something is fishy here, 85c on idle and stock cpu setting is a big NO, even the stock aircooling has better performance, now, did you purge your system properly? I recently redid my loop because my 2nd btw Thermaltake pci ex riser cable went wrong, and i had to install the gpu directly to the motherboard, i notices right away when testing that the rad was pretty warm, more than usual at touch and my temps were like 10c higher than normal, so i start bumping the rad, moving the case back and foward and i saw big giants bubbles of air coming out of the rad, after a while, i was sure that there was no air inside the rad and my temps went down as usual.. so, please try that.. remember doing this by jumping your 24pin psu cable and no mechanical hard disk installed, otherwise you might damage them

Here, both loops, with and without THERMALTAKE riser cable.

Quote:

Originally Posted by toolmaker03

are you moving the PC case, while the pump on the system running, so the radiator is in the upright position?

when the water loop is filled, a lot of air will get trapped inside of horizontally mounted radiators.

For that 2 questions above, yes I have already try to moving the case while pump is running, moving leaning forward and lean backward, left and right
and my idle not at 85 c, idle at around 34-36 C (which is high compared to my corsair H115i at 29-31 C ) and full load at clock 4.5 with 1.115v reach 100 c after just 20-30 sec

when using H115i with that OC the temp just around 85 c

Quote:

Originally Posted by lexer

Before start burning money ahaha. First try to carefully check all the components. Start with the waterblock.

Nickel plated with Aluminium is not a great idea because there is a "big" galvanic difference (check charts on google)

yes will do take down again everything tomorrow (for the 4th times

)
will flush again everythings

hope I was wrong and missed something, for the sake of my money and time

and yes you correct nickel plate and copper doesnt like aluminium