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Tube Bending Insert Lubrication & Clean Up?

11K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  Trunkey  
#1 ·
When it comes to bending hard tubing, I've tried to watch videos, as well as read forums, and I keep hearing/reading about using olive oil to lubricate the bending insert so that you can easily pull it out of the tube after you're done with a piece. Well, I have been test bending some pieces and using olive oil with the bending insert, and while it's been fantastic for keeping the insert from getting stuck, I just can't seem to completely clean the oil out of the tube properly.

After several rinses/washes with warm soapy water (even using the insert to assist with "scrubbing"), there is still a lot oil on the inside the tube, and I'm wondering... Is there is another lubricant that I should be using instead, or is there an easier way to clean this olive oil out of the tubing itself?

I am likely going to have a few pieces that are longer and have some slightly intricate bends, as well as using white tubing for the final build which is not see-through; whereas, the tubing I am doing my test bends with at the moment is see-through and I can easily notice that I still have oil to be removed from the inside of the tube. Unless, of course, olive oil doesn't adversely affect water temperature and water-cooling hardware?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.
 
#2 ·
I use dishwashing soap as lube and just wash the tube out after it's bent.
 
#4 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by GnarlyCharlie View Post

I use dishwashing soap as lube and just wash the tube out after it's bent.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edge0fsanity View Post

same
Hmmm... Okay, well that sounds like a much better approach.
smile.gif
Is there any issue with the soap maybe absorbing into a heated (or over-heated) section of tube and creating any hazing? Not a concern of mine at the moment since, like I said above, the tubing I will be using will not be translucent, but perhaps in the future I'll be using a semi-transparent tube.

EDIT: Thanks, guys. I didn't want to bump the thread to say that.
smile.gif
 
#5 ·
I haven't had any trouble with hazing, but have only used it with PETG.
 
#6 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by MiRai View Post

Hmmm... Okay, well that sounds like a much better approach.
smile.gif
Is there any issue with the soap maybe absorbing into a heated (or over-heated) section of tube and creating any hazing? Not a concern of mine at the moment since, like I said above, the tubing I will be using will not be translucent, but perhaps in the future I'll be using a semi-transparent tube.
I've only noticed hazing from overheating the tube and i am using acrylic as well. I toss out any pieces that aren't perfect even though a bit of hazing likely doesn't matter for my loop since i use pastel fluid.
 
#7 ·
For cleaning you have the answer above. Remember - don't use alcohol of any kind. Still...

To be honest there shouldn't be any need to use oil or greasy substance inside. It clearly shows that tubing or silicon insert are not up to standard. Silicon cord as a material has enough lubricity for the job.

Bend so much EK tubes without need to clean anything (dust particles are flushed anyway) except exterior from my - not very - fat finger marks. Used silicon/rubber gloves but feeling of the tube is not the same. Important thing to remember is to keep silicon insert clean before job. It should slide gently inside without any forced moves. Common misconception is that insert has to be very tight. It doesn't, there has to be a little of air around it. As far I'm concerned EK tube-insert fit is perfect. I did some really crazy test bends like dual 360 circles around steel tube and cord with a bit of strong pull simply slided out.

As for hazing, using heat gun which is too powerful is not recommended. When you feel that tube start to sag a bit move it upwards. While PETG is reasonably resistant to overheating, PMMA is very prone to structural deformation. Better to heat it longer at a distance than closer and quicker.

From various articles and videos I know that Primochill and Monsoon are quirky buggers to say the least. Incompatibility of inserts and tubes between vendors is done on purpose.
 
#8 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ypsylon View Post

For cleaning you have the answer above. Remember - don't use alcohol of any kind. Still...

To be honest there shouldn't be any need to use oil or greasy substance inside. It clearly shows that tubing or silicon insert are not up to standard. Silicon cord as a material has enough lubricity for the job.

Bend so much EK tubes without need to clean anything (dust particles are flushed anyway) except exterior from my - not very - fat finger marks. Used silicon/rubber gloves but feeling of the tube is not the same. Important thing to remember is to keep silicon insert clean before job. It should slide gently inside without any forced moves. Common misconception is that insert has to be very tight. It doesn't, there has to be a little of air around it. As far I'm concerned EK tube-insert fit is perfect. I did some really crazy test bends like dual 360 circles around steel tube and cord with a bit of strong pull simply slided out.

As for hazing, using heat gun which is too powerful is not recommended. When you feel that tube start to sag a bit move it upwards. While PETG is reasonably resistant to overheating, PMMA is very prone to structural deformation. Better to heat it longer at a distance than closer and quicker.

From various articles and videos I know that Primochill and Monsoon are quirky buggers to say the least. Incompatibility of inserts and tubes between vendors is done on purpose.
Completely agree, I have never used a lubricant when using a silicone insert. Nor have I had a problem removing them once the tube was bent.

Always have used acrylic, never PETG.

TCO
 
#9 ·
I use a soapy water mix. A nice high quality dish washing liquid and water works well. I like having the insert lubricated. The liquid also gives a visual indication of when the tubing is just starting to soften as the soapy water will start to boil. This is my opinion and it works well for me. I hope this helps.
Thanks,
rich!
 
#11 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by woahipo View Post

From various articles and videos I know that Primochill and Monsoon are quirky buggers to say the least.
49.gif
Primochill PETG is 12.7mm OD as opposed to the more common 12mm OD, so I use their insert and fittings. Works without quirks that way
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#12 ·
I didn't want to buy a 12mm bending rubber I won't use nor a crappy junior hacksaw or sheet of grit paper so bought an xspc 10mm bending rubber to use on my 12/10mm EK Pteg tubing but it is way to tight. Is my problem that I have miked brands??
If so where do I get a suitable bending rubber from?
Cheers