The AIO pumps are not really powerful, it is normal that you got only a trickle of flow.
The water flow does not matter too much, i will not spend time explaining the physics behind here.

To really get these to work as they should and even better than stock, you need to add a small tank to the loop.

Don't watch the youtube influencers videos, they are wrong and superficial, they don't show how one should really rebuild these.

Just filling the loop is not enough, AIO radiators are quite restrictive, hence the trickle of flow.
You need to spend a lot of time shaking the radiator, to be sure it is fully filled with water.
The pump is not powerful enough to kick the air out of the radiator, shaking it does the job.
At this point you will get the performances you are looking for.

And coming out from 5 years of running custom AIO loops, there is no way to fully fill the loop, without a tank.
When adding a small tank to the loop, use the shorter tube length as possible.

Be sure to also clean the rotor shaft and rotor itself. Usually, deposits on the rotor shaft slow the pump speed.
Last thing, do not run bare distilled water, add 10/15% of anti-freeze, to avoid growth and lubricate the loop.

 

i took it apart again and was looking at the impeller shaft. the shaft looked good and there are plastic little washer on top where the cover goes and that all looks good.
the impeller it self on the bottom area had a gunk on it i wiped off and on the od of the impeller on the cylinder but not the blades in some area was a bur. i took a file and got rid of the bur.
while i had it out and i could see the impeller i hooked it up to my motherboard "System 1" 4 pin header (as usual) and the impeller went fast and i could see rpm in bios (1500 rpm) = 3000 actual i believe.

ok it sounded good and when i would touch the impeller blades it would make a whine kind of and at least now i know what that sound is if i ever hear it.

ok now here comes the big thing.
the impeller im pretty sure is spinning backwards.
i doubled checked with another 12v dc 1A wall adapter and hooked it up through the h100iv2 3 pin fan header and it is also turning backwards.
i do not even get a trickle anymore.
what is going on here?
im like 90% sure it is going backwards (CCW as you look at the impeller straight on. so the swirls are not scooping the water.
what the heck?

 

you cant run pumps dry that literally destroys them

 

yea i know.
now do you want to tell me why it running backwards?

 

that would probably be normal as it would be spinning clockwise looking down on the pump

 

you can easily tell which way the impeller is supposed to spin by looking at the spiral scoops.
they are spinning backwards

 

that makes no sense then

 

thats what i was afraid of.
i bet its electrical on the circuit board.

 

ok cool. that is the actual way it is supposed to work i guess
You can also look at the impeller vanes to understand flow. It is commonly assumed that curved veins "cup" water. A centrifugal pump does NOT cup water.
back to trying to figure out why no water coming out the hoses

 

cause like he said these things are not meant to be opened up..... You cant bleed the air outta a aio without a res

 

I have one pf these kicking around, pretty sure it reports %200 rpm in bios not %50. I will have a look after if i can get the old system its on to post.

 

ooooohhhhhh yesss... this is my thread....let me introduce my picture album, see below.

I did this experiment where I replaced the stock rads from standard 120 AIO's with a 240 rad...can't remember the type of rad but it worked..very low flow but I think my GPU maxed out at like 44C or something..lol


The round astek type pumps carry more water flow and head pressure but are louder.

H60 pump I believe:

These open flow shots should give you something to compare to. It takes a lot of effort to close the loop without having any air bubbles in the rad or pump head... its possible but I used a crock pot to do it..literally. lol. I can't find a pic of it but I even connected 2 240 rads to a single AIO pump...it worked quite well.

 

ooooohhhhhh yesss... this is my thread....let me introduce my picture album, see below.

I did this experiment where I replaced the stock rads from standard 120 AIO's with a 240 rad...can't remember the type of rad but it worked..very low flow but I think my GPU maxed out at like 44C or something..lol


The round astek type pumps carry more water flow and head pressure but are louder.
View attachment 2523370
View attachment 2523371
View attachment 2523372
H60 pump I believe:
View attachment 2523374 View attachment 2523373
View attachment 2523375
View attachment 2523376

These open flow shots should give you something to compare to. It takes a lot of effort to close the loop without having any air bubbles in the rad or pump head... its possible but I used a crock pot to do it..literally. lol. I can't find a pic of it but I even connected 2 240 rads to a single AIO pump...it worked quite well.

 

@Cakewalk_S

You are a bit late mate. ^^

 

and here I thought I was innovative...lol
You even remembered to get the VRM cooling....

 

all night i was working on it.
first i had the pump on the ground with the two hoses detached from the radiator and the hose were hanging over a bowl of distilled water.
i could prime the hoses pretty easy this way but couldnt get any flow but i could hear the pump impeller spinning.
i would boot to bios and make sure it was on max rpm for the pump "System 1" in bios pic.
i could either control the speeds there reboot to windows 10 and use corsair link and play with rpm there (silent/normal/performance) and i could hear the pump but little to no water moving out the hose and i would constantly fill with a syringe.
that didnt work so i decided to a drill a hole in the radiator and connect the hoses and i could top it off this way by submerging the radiator of just use syringe and top it off that way. i could either use tap or my thumb to plug hole and i can rotate the radiator or move pump or shake and watch the bubbles come out and then add me water.

nothing really working.
maybe my actual veins on the od of the impeller are bad?
i was about to give up and try and find a replacement impeller and then i seen you guys post so hear are some pics i took.

i did remove the top cover of pump and i did see some corrosion. i clipped off the led white rectangular thing and i cleaned the board with toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol. everything there pretty much looked good.

 

all night i was working on it.
first i had the pump on the ground with the two hoses detached from the radiator and the hose were hanging over a bowl of distilled water.
i could prime the hoses pretty easy this way but couldnt get any flow but i could hear the pump impeller spinning.
i would boot to bios and make sure it was on max rpm for the pump "System 1" in bios pic.
i could either control the speeds there reboot to windows 10 and use corsair link and play with rpm there (silent/normal/performance) and i could hear the pump but little to no water moving out the hose and i would constantly fill with a syringe.
that didnt work so i decided to a drill a hole in the radiator and connect the hoses and i could top it off this way by submerging the radiator of just use syringe and top it off that way. i could either use tap or my thumb to plug hole and i can rotate the radiator or move pump or shake and watch the bubbles come out and then add me water.

nothing really working.
maybe my actual veins on the od of the impeller are bad?
i was about to give up and try and find a replacement impeller and then i seen you guys post so hear are some pics i took. View attachment 2523402 View attachment 2523403 View attachment 2523406 View attachment 2523407 View attachment 2523408 View attachment 2523411 View attachment 2523412 View attachment 2523413 i did remove the top cover of pump and i did see some corrosion. i clipped off the led white rectangular thing and i cleaned the board with toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol. everything there pretty much looked good.

As i said, it is nearly impossible to properly fill these, in this way, i already tried a lot!

You would need to submerge the whole rad as you did, but instead completely flat, shake it inside the tank, to fill it with water.
Then plunging and filling the tubing, previously connected to the pump head, meanwhile the rad is submerged.
It is tricky and there will still be some air, remaining inside the pump, inside the rotor chamber.

Moreover, if you want to add a purging hole to the rad, it should be the size of the screw.
In this way, you can still secure the rad, by adding an o-ring to the screw.
I think the hole you drilled is not really safe anymore, to be put into a case.
You should get another cheap second hand AIO rad and i would not recommend drilling these.

The pump head seems in good shape, tho you never know, if the electronics are not a bit tired.
I clean the impeller and shaft ceramic, with a bit of the green stuff, taken from a washing dish sponge.
I carefully clean the shaft and inside the impeller hole.

Be sure to also carefully remove the o-rings, clean them in soapy hot water and slightly apply a bit of oil on them.

Not sure 1500rpm is fine and that this rmp is really indicative.
Since the pump is half running and not properly water primed.

So i strongly advise a small tank, to be able to build yourself a new closed loop.
Allowing you to easily prime the pump with the water and fill the loop by slowly adding water to the tank.

And to be honest, even if the overall performances are quite good, once properly filled.
It is still a bit tricky to deal with, because when some air go back inside the loop, it is hard to kick it out, when everything assembled.

 

Clearly something is going wrong here if your CPU is at 86c under 2% load. When did you get this heatsink? Can you return it? RMA?

 

i have the arctic air cooler on my cpu and its misreading my actual cpu temp.
the h100iv2 is outside the computer attached to the "System 1 Fan" header but i do also have a 12vdc 1A wall adapter that i can hook up to it to test completely isolated but no fan control like i do have when its hooked to the pc.

As i said, it is nearly impossible to properly fill these, in this way, i already tried a lot!

You would need to submerge the whole rad as you did, but instead completely flat, shake it inside the tank, to fill it with water.
Then plunging and filling the tubing, previously connected to the pump head, meanwhile the rad is submerged.
It is tricky and there will still be some air, remaining inside the pump, inside the rotor chamber.

Moreover, if you want to add a purging hole to the rad, it should be the size of the screw.
In this way, you can still secure the rad, by adding an o-ring to the screw.
I think the hole you drilled is not really safe anymore, to be put into a case.
You should get another cheap second hand AIO rad and i would not recommend drilling these.

The pump head seems in good shape, tho you never know, if the electronics are not a bit tired.
I clean the impeller and shaft ceramic, with a bit of the green stuff, taken from a washing dish sponge.
I carefully clean the shaft and inside the impeller hole.

Be sure to also carefully remove the o-rings, clean them in soapy hot water and slightly apply a bit of oil on them.

Not sure 1500rpm is fine and that this rmp is really indicative.
Since the pump is half running and not properly water primed.

So i strongly advise a small tank, to be able to build yourself a new closed loop.
Allowing you to easily prime the pump with the water and fill the loop by slowly adding water to the tank.

And to be honest, even if the overall performances are quite good, once properly filled.
It is still a bit tricky to deal with, because when some air go back inside the loop, it is hard to kick it out, when everything assembled.

video showing how to put hole in radiator and i think some tap and a "G-14" removeable plug i think. its in japanese. i did translate it for the guy in the replies though.

i have now removed my pump and 2 hose that went to the rad.
what is the proper way to prime it with out it being connected to the radiator?
i should be able to get water flowing through this thing somehow shouldnt i?

 

All of this for a cheap AIO

 

I was just about to post the same thing when I read from the OP “I was up all night…”

Just toss this cheap plastic pump / AIO into the bin. The hours working on it could have paid for a custom loop lol.

 

if only mine would like like that.
i had mine just like you had yours and i cant get no flow like that.
that looks fan-freaking-tastic!

 

If you have no water coming out then the pump may have too much air in it, or the impeller is not spinning (could be slipping on the motor shaft) sorry i must have missed the part saying you had no flow at all. AIO's do have low flow but it should be moving some decent amount.

 

proper fill request

 

You need to fill the pump completely, before turning it on, simple as that.

Usually, using a big syringe, you would fill the whole pump head, while shaking it, to be sure to kick the air out of the block.
Rinse and repeat, until both hoses and tubes are filled with water, at this point, you would submerge the water filled tubing, into the tank.
Finally, turn on the pump, shaking it, meanwhile the tubing is submerged into to tank.
Once you feel that the pump is running, pumping properly, take out the output hose from the tank, to check the water flow.

 

You really don't want to put distilled water in an aio since most use copper block with aluminum radiator

 

yea i have actually been up all not a few times on this.
i think it must be the rubber seal under the cold plate leaking or the clearance between the impeller veins and impeller housing wall has got bigger over time and i did file it to get rid of a big bur but that was mainly below the impeller veins and on the cylinder thing.
maybe it just sounds like it is spinning and it isnt....
i made to 20 minute videos and uploaded one to youtube and was going to post it but i just look dumb on there so i didnt post it.

maybe Slaughtahouse is right and i should just ditch it but im a mechanic and i just hate not knowing why something isnt working.
i think i have filled the pump correctly a couple times and i get no water to come out but maybe im wrong.

pressure/head is leaking somewhere. cant it be that rubber seal?

 

I think you are simply overestimating what the pump should be doing. A trickle is essentially what is expected of these under normal circumstances.

 

Alot has happened since my last post.
I purchased the Kraken M22 and it is now on my 7700K and temps are good but not as good as i would like.
i did use the stock pre-applied paste but i heard this aio wasnt that good in the first place but i got it new in sealed box for $40 and it was local in my small town so im happy for that.
I also have ordered a used Kraken X63 that is missing alot of parts but im hoping to use some parts from the h100iv2 (backplate, pump mount plate, 4 standoffs, 4 thumbscrews and usb cable). to me it looks like they might interchange.
it only comes with one rgb fan so im hoping.
anyhow im not sure if im going to put that on the 7700k and try and use the m22 with the G12 (modded) for the xfx 5700 xt raw 2. this card gpu hotspot is always at 110C (well not always but hwinfo64 and gpu-z) show it does hit that sometimes.
maybe just leave the m22 on the 7700k and get better paste and move the x63 to the gpu?
im not sure what to do with the "Pump" connectors since i will have 2. my motherboard only has 1 connector.
Asus Maximus VIII Hero. i actually traded my gigabyte b450 aorus elite with ryzen 2600 for it with the 7700k
straight across and i had to drive 3hrs round trip and cost $30 in gas.
we did the exchange in his apt and made sure both systems worked etc.
anyhow i will prob delid this 7700k with a razer like i did my 4770k a few years back but not going to do that until i have some liquid metal "TIM" and some non-conductive paste between IHS and aio cold plate.

guess what? i still have this h100iv2 pump with 2 hose and want to fix it.
the rubber piece under the copper cold plate is what i was also beginning to think is the problem.
im pretty sure i put it in correctly as ive done it alot with the same results.
when i first disassembled it i seen rubber sticking to the cold plate when i peeled it off.
i never could get it perfectly clean and that part that was stuck on there had to come off the rubber seal.
maybe its leaking water through there and cant create a pressure?
it looked like someone got it so hot it melted rubber. prob ran out of water or pump stopped working?
when i take it apart again i will post pics of that area on the cold plate.
might do it here soon but those screws are getting loose fit on my screw driver.
taken it apart alot and i think before i got it someone else had too.

anyhow thanks for the help and cant wait to get the kraken x63 (i know i know. its not a custom loop) but heck i never had 2 AIO in a system before and its a first time i will have owned 2 or even 3 aio at same time.
my room has aio boxes and parts.
btw im using the thumb screws from my arctic 34 esports duo on the corsair h100iv2 backplate-standoffs-pump-bracket that will be used for the X63 when it gets here....i hope.
here is a picture.

 

I purchased the Kraken M22 and it is now on my 7700K and temps are good but not as good as i would like.

No surprise here the M22 is might be one of the worst AIO on the market for keeping your cpu cold. A good air cooler will likely do better. Altho from a build quality stand point Gamers Nexus said its of good quality, for w/e that means.

im not sure if im going to put that on the 7700k and try and use the m22 with the G12 (modded) for the xfx 5700 xt raw 2. this card gpu hotspot is always at 110C (well not always but hwinfo64 and gpu-z) show it does hit that sometimes.
maybe just leave the m22 on the 7700k and get better paste and move the x63 to the gpu?
im not sure what to do with the "Pump" connectors since i will have 2. my motherboard only has 1 connector.

Why not just do a couple of cheap amazon copper water blocks for around 20$ each(unless your doing direct die liquid metal then you want a nickel plated cold plate). And do your self a custom loop. Get some GE (glycol) mix it with some water and a D5 pump, and i'm sure you can scour the inets to find some cheap rads. Just be sure to clean them out well before you start the build. If performance is what your looking for the custom loop is the way.

it looked like someone got it so hot it melted rubber. prob ran out of water or pump stopped working?

Could have been a mfg defect, or when it was put together it might have been out of place and got pinched when it was assembled. Dunno how bad the seal is but if its not leaking it should still pump water. (even if it was leaking a little it would likely still pump just fine) Doubt you could get a cpu hot enough to melt a rubber o-ring. And if it did get that hot it should have melted the whole thing not just a part of it. Corrosion could also dmg the o-ring especially when peeling the ring off the block. It can tear quite easy(the older they are the easier they fall apart). But in a good enjoinment those o-rings should last for over 10years. Some times they get stretched out and are just too long to make fit properly any more tho. and at that point it needs to be replaced.

Best of luck in your endeavors may the water be with you

 

I want to use the M22 with the G12 but the pump is a smaller diameter. i watch a video on youtube where a guy mods the G12 but in the process he kind of messes it up (makes a mistake) and then practically makes a brand new one in the process.
if it isnt messed up i think it dont require to much modification. i need to research it more.
let me share the link. (i think its for an nvidia card while mine is the amd xfx 5700xt raw 2 i think it might work.
determination

 

this is still not a good idea either way you cut it. aluminum rad + copper plate=galvanic corrosion and a gummed up loop....

 

"Why not just do a couple of cheap amazon copper water blocks for around 20$ each(unless your doing direct die liquid metal then you want a nickel plated cold plate). And do your self a custom loop. Get some GE (glycol) mix it with some water and a D5 pump, and i'm sure you can scour the inets to find some cheap rads. Just be sure to clean them out well before you start the build. If performance is what your looking for the custom loop is the way. "

i have the nzxt 510 case and i dont think i can add a custom cooling for the cpu and gpu.
if i can it sure would be tight.

 

but would i have the same problem i have now with the corsair h100iv2 pump and hoses detached from the radiator....no flow at all?
i mean is it my pump or is it me?
could i have this same problem with the M22?

 

I mean honestly yes. If you want to do something like this just build a custom loop. Its not that much more expensive.

 

ok back to trying to figure out why this h100iv2 pump is not working.
can i just submerge the whole pump (with both hose attached and no radiator) in mineral spirits?
that way i know there will be no air lock.
this is just to see if the pump does actually work.
then if it does work i wont give up on it.
i dont think i have very many times left on the screws for taking cold plate off without having alot of problems.
so just submerge pump and intake hose in left side of sink containing mineral oil?
hang the exit out hose to right side of sink and connect power to pump?
shake pump and intake hose while keeping submerged and mineral oil should come out of the exit hose?

would be awesome if someone showed a full proof 100% working way to prime pump on youtube.
cant believe no youtube video for this.

 

here is a new video i made
pump in sink
adapter is 12vdc 1.08A
here is a picture of the circuit board.
has anyone modded it so you can add extra fan connectors like the original h100?
with that pump you could control 4 fans (2 push and 2 pull) which i did at that time.

 

screw it.
i re-soldered some joints that look bad.
Mod can close this thread.
im done with this h100iv2 except for maybe parts.