Sounds like your left side + wire is is shorting out with the right side - wire. Post an picture. I can probably point out the correct connections.

 

Horrible pictures, but hopefully it works:
http://1drv.ms/1HzBb3g

What I've done now is putting those two cables together since I noticed I got sound when doing it

 

Get a multimeter , set in Continuity (a cheap one can cost like 10-15eu i think ) ... and check witch cable correspond to each side. Also you can check if your solder is right, sometimes if you don't clean well the protection the resistance of the cable increase and change the frequency response (more impedance).
Also get a 1.5v battery to check that both driver are in phase, if you apply power to the driver and you see the cone pop out the polarity is correct ...

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by lexer

Get a multimeter , set in Continuity (a cheap one can cost like 10-15eu i think ) ... and check witch cable correspond to each side. Also you can check if your solder is right, sometimes if you don't clean well the protection the resistance of the cable increase and change the frequency response (more impedance).
Also get a 1.5v battery to check that both driver are in phase, if you apply power to the driver and you see the cone pop out the polarity is correct ...

Funny thing is, I'm part electrician, but the names of everything from English to Swedish is so different I have no clue what you're on about.
Thanks for trying though.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by h1F5solomon

Horrible pictures, but hopefully it works:
http://1drv.ms/1HzBb3g

What I've done now is putting those two cables together since I noticed I got sound when doing it

Just to clarify

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by h1F5solomon

Funny thing is, I'm part electrician, but the names of everything from English to Swedish is so different I have no clue what you're on about.
Thanks for trying though.

This is "Continuity Mode" ... tell me what part you don't understand. Also be EXTRA CAREFUL when you use the solder on the drivers, because some tiny tiny cooper wires come from the coil and goes to the solder pads


off: my english a bit crappy so maybe i did a typo

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by lexer

This is "Continuity Mode" ... tell me what part you don't understand. Also be EXTRA CAREFUL when you use the solder on the drivers, because some tiny tiny cooper wires come from the coil and goes to the solder pads


off: my english a bit crappy so maybe i did a typo

Shouldn't be much of an issue in this case as it has an separate PCB part. As seen in the picture there there are what seems to be 3 main solder points and 2 smaller point that I would presume are the ones that are for the driver wires.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by lexer

This is "Continuity Mode" ... tell me what part you don't understand. Also be EXTRA CAREFUL when you use the solder on the drivers, because some tiny tiny cooper wires come from the coil and goes to the solder pads


off: my english a bit crappy so maybe i did a typo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bit_reaper

Just to clarify

To answer both of you:

Your English is fine. It's just I haven't studied electricity in english so I don't know the names for everything.
The part with the battery is the thing I didn't understand as well. Phases and stuff.

 

To burn the isolation of the wires don't use fire, just apply soldering tin ..., check the resistance of the cable with the multimeter (arround 0.8- 1ohms) and then solder it to the pad.
If you get the headphone working again, check the impedance with the multimeter ( in Ohms mode) u will see a value a bit higher than the actual impedance of the headphones (actually you are measuring resistance ... )

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by h1F5solomon

To answer both of you:

Your English is fine. It's just I haven't studied electricity in english so I don't know the names for everything.
The part with the battery is the thing I didn't understand as well. Phases and stuff.

OK in that case I'm fairly sure the wiring should be as follows.



So use the "beeper" and check that it matches with standard stereo jack layout (ground being the same as negative in this instance)



So in actuality on the face of it the connections look good. Could be an cable issue (kabelbrott).

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by lexer



To burn the isolation of the wires don't use fire, just apply soldering tin ..., check the resistance of the cable with the multimeter (arround 0.8- 1ohms) and then solder it to the pad

As said on the video: The "common pad" is missing cables because I removed them to try something. You can see both cables unfocused in the middle of the screen.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bit_reaper

OK in that case I'm fairly sure the wiring should be as follows.



So use the "beeper" and check that it matches with standard stereo jack layout (ground being the same as negative in this instance)



So in actuality on the face of it the connections look good. Could be an cable issue (kabelbrott).

hmmph..

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by h1F5solomon

hmmph..

Yeah that's seems like the correct way to me

But like I said you should measure the connections with the multi meter and actually rather then using the circuit test beep use the ohm setting and measure the resistances.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bit_reaper

Yeah that's seems like the correct way to me

But like I said you should measure the connections with the multi meter and actually rather then using the circuit test beep use the ohm setting and measure the resistances.

makes sense?

 

This is really weird, but if I put the jack like this I have sound/bass in both ears, but if I plug it all in the bass disappears.

What the hell?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by h1F5solomon


This is really weird, but if I put the jack like this I have sound/bass in both ears, but if I plug it all in the bass disappears.

What the hell?

Whats probably happening is that its ends up with an mono connection, meaning left channel on the jack makes no contact and the right channel goes to both left and right.

Like so

 

Yes make sense .... ground to right posive = 56ohms , ground to left positive = 56 ohms and Right and left postive (since the ground is common) 56+56 = +/-112 ohms. Try using the headphones direct without the volume control

 

The volume controller is not the problem since it works with my speakers and earbuds.
The cable gets stuck under my armrest and when I move my head the cable pulls, so I guess there may be a "cable issue"? (kabelbrott as you referred to earlier)

I have another headset I'm not using. Should I try take the cable from there and solder it to this one? That way there's no chance of the cable being broken.
Or should I try to fix this and use that as a last solution?

 

Well.. I got it to work with another headset.
I took the wiring from the other headset and put it into my Qpad one: http://1drv.ms/1LhCHLF

I've noticed there's more sound on the right side though, but I've balanced it out in windows so It should be good now.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by h1F5solomon

Well.. I got it to work with another headset.
I took the wiring from the other headset and put it into my Qpad one: http://1drv.ms/1LhCHLF

I've noticed there's more sound on the right side though, but I've balanced it out in windows so It should be good now.

Thanks for the help guys.

Good to hear

U have a bad solder in the left side, probabily you don't clean perfectly the insolation and is adding resistance, just check your soldering again ... and use the multimeter

 

opened up the phones again.
Is this correct?


(you may have to zoom in quite a bit)

Full image: http://i.imgur.com/3Yb3dg7.jpg

 

Your need to measure the resistance between the plug contacts and each wire ... not between the driver coils.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by lexer

Your need to measure the resistance between the plug contacts and each wire ... not between the driver coils.

´

Ground between those points were all 0.1ohm
Left between C - G were 56ohm

I'm confused about the "Right" one, since you've done different letters on both pictures.
But from what I could think of It's R to A It 114 ohm, från R to D It's also 114 ohm, but från R to I it's 0.6ohm.

Like, the left driver only has 2 cables, not three. As you can see on the second picture you posted.

EDIT: Nvm helping me. I ragequitted this **** by ripping this **** apart.

 

Chill out bro ! jajaja just grab a beer put some relaxing music .... Let see if this image helps

THE POINTS H, I, G, F MEASURE IT FROM THE DRIVER NOT THE PCB !

 

As said. There's nothing left of the headset. I threw it in the wall and then I ripped it apart.
Thanks for the help.