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I cannot comment on the build quality of the product because im not a reviewer and it would be unfair for me to do so, how ever the rad is dirty (on our bought one) and did need a good clean. When i get time im going to slap pastel in it and see what happens (once we've finished cleaning it). I want to see if there is an issue at all which i very much doubt (i have been proven wrong a few times though).
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post

I cannot comment on the build quality of the product because im not a reviewer and it would be unfair for me to do so, how ever the rad is dirty (on our bought one) and did need a good clean. When i get time im going to slap pastel in it and see what happens (once we've finished cleaning it). I want to see if there is an issue at all which i very much doubt (i have been proven wrong a few times though).
Do the particles inside the radiator look like what you'd find in Alphacool radiators or other "main stream" radiators? (not to target Alphacool, it's just the first name that came to mind)
 
So any news on what dyes can be used? Is it because the radiator is aluminum that there is problems with the dyes?
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by HexagonRabbit View Post

...

But now after reading this and your problems (my heart goes out to you OP), I'm having second thoughts.
I'm not a chemist but I know a tiny bit on the subject. Its really hard to believe that was caused by a chemical reaction.
Since you cleaned the rad, that rules out blockage.

Maybe the part was faulty when you purchased it. Heat from your CPU caused the part to expand and thus....your leak.
It probably didn't leak while it was on because of pressure.
Of course I'm not a 100% on this....or even....50% but it seems logical.

Did you ever get the MDS on the unit? I am curious though, I really want to know how this was caused. The chemical reaction just doesn't seem or sound right. And the bit about it being thicker is bogus.
To put it into perspective, I topped my Triton off with Dexcool. I doubt Mayhem has dye thicker than that.
The system was under massive pressure when I opened it. Enough to blow the hose off the fitting as soon as the compression ring was released. This was after three weeks of the unit being switched off and just sitting there - 2wks in the system (off) and 1wk on my kitchen sink. This doesn't make sense to me in any way other than a gas buildup within the loop.
 
Hi all,

after quite some time, I finally got my 'dream case' (for an acceptable price)

Lian Li X2000F
The build idea was water-cooling on a Budget

Parts:
Triton (core version)
SR-1 420 (front mounted, no case hacking needed :) )
Full-Cover vga block (GTX 970)
Tygon tubing
2 additional Fittings
(all in all about 240€)

-> disassembled Triton
-> flushed SR-1 (normal water.... once with distilled)
-> assembled Loop, filled with destilled water only
-> bleed...
-> bleed...

Result:
pump on 7,2V (controlled by assist fan1 from Sabertooth Z77 (min. 60% max. 75%)
Fans (original lian li case fans) Manual controlled (50 to 75%)
-> nice temps
CPU I7 3770k@4.0 GHz on Prime 65° HyperCores; physical 61°
GPU GTX970 (stable boost 1.408) on Haven 54°
ambient was quiet warm (estimate 25+) summer here :)

no leak, no trouble (as of jet)

plan:
Push/Pull -> Arctic F14 PWM, always two in 'daisy chain -> mobo controlled; exhaust front (3 Lian Li as intake at the moment)

my2cent
pump@12v -> to loud for my liking
very satisfied that 7v is enough für CPU+GPU+420rad (can still hear the pump, could be case specific.... x2000 is a resonating box)

oops - should update sig^^ (it's what my wife got after completing the buid)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by savage1987 View Post

The system was under massive pressure when I opened it. Enough to blow the hose off the fitting as soon as the compression ring was released. This was after three weeks of the unit being switched off and just sitting there - 2wks in the system (off) and 1wk on my kitchen sink. This doesn't make sense to me in any way other than a gas buildup within the loop.
Gas. I guess its possible. I'm not sure what metal they would use that is so reactionary to mayhems dye and coolant.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HexagonRabbit View Post

I cannot seem to get any answer to this.

1st, I'm about to expand my loop and I'm ready for new dye/coolant or something new in general. My issue is, I have red stuff.
My motherboard is red/black, I have red fans, and red cold cathodes.

The thing is, I'm a little bored with the red.

Here is my idea:
My original idea was to get the aurora 2 silver and drop some of the clear UV dye in it. I would put my red cathodes in the back and drop 2 new UV lights in the front.
I WAS, "was" being the key word here, reverse my red cathodes so that when they would sound activate, they would go off instead of on and the new UV lights would come on.
But.....I don't know how to reverse the lighting effects of that.
In fact, I'm not even sure if it's possible to do that with the Logysis cathodes.

So, now I'm back to square one.
I know I like the UV effects, I like the aurora coolant/dye (i am most definatly going with Mayhem whatever my color direction would be)
BUT, I don't want to replace my red fans.

So I'm here......what color combo, UV effects, dye, coolant, etc. would really make the system pop? Since you guys have more experience, I'm asking you guys.
I think you should make your own thread. This is very irrelevant to the OP.
 
Really bummed that this happened to you. A few thoughts....

The marketplace here is a great place to get inexpensive water cooling parts. You can check there rather than Ebay.

I run Mayhems in both of my systems. Blue pastel in my wife's system. It's been running since 11/2013

I have soaked a couple of systems by accident during reconfigurations and they both came out ok after sufficient drying time (ymmv).

I have also used Primochill's dye in the past, and I have built 2 other watercooled systems that ran for years and I have never had that kind of pressure build up in the system.

The chemical reaction theory is the only thing that makes sense to me. Something unique about Raijintek's system perhaps.

Hope there is a happy ending to all this...
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
@pgdeaner: Me too! I'm hoping I can flush this rad out well enough to use it again
smile.gif
Distilled water and Raijintek's own crappy dye is the only stuff that'll go in it this time though. I don't trust it as far as I can throw it.

@HexagonRabbit: So am I. I just can't see how anything specific that I did would have made this happen so I guess for my own peace of mind I hope Mayhems see the same results.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by savage1987 View Post

@pgdeaner: Me too! I'm hoping I can flush this rad out well enough to use it again
smile.gif
Distilled water and Raijintek's own crappy dye is the only stuff that'll go in it this time though. I don't trust it as far as I can throw it.

@HexagonRabbit: So am I. I just can't see how anything specific that I did would have made this happen so I guess for my own peace of mind I hope Mayhems see the same results.
Just a thought, you could recreate the problem from the beginning to see if you get the same results. It would be interesting to see if it was a fluke or if there was a real compatibility issue. Of course don't install it in your system, run it outside your system or far away with a completely different power supply. I know you have a lot of frustration from this but it would be great information for the OCN community to know if you wanted to try.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by savage1987 View Post

@pgdeaner: Me too! I'm hoping I can flush this rad out well enough to use it again
smile.gif
Distilled water and Raijintek's own crappy dye is the only stuff that'll go in it this time though. I don't trust it as far as I can throw it.

@HexagonRabbit: So am I. I just can't see how anything specific that I did would have made this happen so I guess for my own peace of mind I hope Mayhems see the same results.
Well, i'm getting ready to spend money on some Mayhem stuffs so....the sooner the better.
 
Hmm this has me a bit worry now... Tho im still using the stuff that came with the unit, And i also expanded mine. I have 2 Raijintek Triton together 2x240mm rads and using a 2nd triton pump/res as a 2nd pump which siting on the floor of my thermalltake x9.

Had my first Triton for about 4 months running 24/7 so far with no problems, And had 2 of them going together for about a month with so far no problems using the same fluid from both units with the red dye it came with.

Was using a xspc 750 rs240 kit before this which the Triton was about 2c better at load, And with 2rads and 2 pumps its about 5-8cooler. So the Raijintek Triton is a good kit but it does seem to have problems like cracking/leaking and now this problem...

Maybe there was a reaction with the Mayhem's pastel and the tubes that raijintek uses, Cause these tubes feel really soft compare to normal water cooling tubes and also kink very easy.

Than again the block can be defective too.

I hope your 970 is ok..
frown.gif
 
liked your setup
thumb.gif


But another nail in the coffin for AIO 's - makes me an 100% air fan
Snorkle.gif
 
as my Triton is my first AIO I thought the tubes being like that was normal, hmmm, something to go on?

So here is what I am prepared to do, although I will have to save up first for this experiment.
I intend to to a custom loop replacing my Triton because I am obviously insane
smile.gif

As an experiment I am willing to get some Mayhems pastel and try it out in the loop sans pc, unless someone else gets there first. Part of me would like to keep the Triton as a backup loops , but I am sure it can be flushed and redone after the experiment.

Please don't let that stop you though @Mayhem: , I really want to know, and see, the results of your testing.
 
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